A bit of the Caribbean in Blue Hill Maine

When I was on the Corinthians Cruise in Maine a few weeks ago the fleet visited Blue Hill Maine and were treated to a concert by a steel drum band called Flash in the Pans.  It seems that the band’s founder and current leader, Carl Chase did some sailing in the Eastern Caribbean back in the early 70s and was entranced by the sound of the steel drum music that he heard.  Interestingly, steel drum instruments were first developed in Trinidad in the 40s, shortly after WWII. Who knew?

Legend has it that Carl was given a copy of a book written by Pete Seeger, the folk singer, Steel Drums: How to Make Them and Play Them, published in the mid 50s.   Some credit Seeger with popularizing the instrument in the U.S.   Amazingly, the book, long out of print, is still available from Amazon.

Don’t worry Brenda, I have enough on my plate right now so I’ll hold off on ordering a copy.

Carl, was inspired to learn how to make these instruments, made one and well, that lead to another and another.

And, here they are, the Flash in The Pans, performing on a beautiful evening in Blue Hill.  It seems that they are an institution in those parts and steel drums have become a vital part of the local school band program. While the band was on break, I had a nice chat with Diane, the lady in pink playing to the far right hand side of the frame, not to put too fine a point on it.  It was clear from her enthusiasm that she, like many others, get quite a kick out of being in the band. The band has some 40 people who play regularly, ranging in age from teens to well, older folks like me. This short on minute video I took that night will give you an idea of what a great group they are.  Don’t they look like they are having fun?  The audience was too and there were hundreds outside of the tent dancing with abandon to the beat. What an experience.

Pete Seeger, along with writing a book about how to make steel drums, also did a short film, exploring steel drums and how they were made in Trinidad.  It’s worth watching and is an excellent example of what can be accomplished with the simplest tools given enough time and effort.
As a contrast, this clip from the Discovery Channel, explores how these same instruments are now created in high tech factories.  There is no end to man’s ability to complicate things I guess.
One way or the other, steel drums sound great.  When we were in Cuba last winter we were struck by the resourcefulness of the Cuban people who seemed able to make great things with the minimum of materials available to them.   However, while the music scene is quite vibrant in Cuba, we did not see any steel drum bands when we visited.

As we plan our trip to the Eastern Caribbean next winter, I am looking forward to hearing some steel bands.   The first time I was exposed to these instruments was when I was in my early teens and our parents took me on a family vacation to Jamaica.  I heard “Yellow Bird” played at the resort where we were playing and can still remember the sound after all these years.  I also clearly recall the painful blistering sunburn that I got while enjoying the beach but that’s a story for another day.

Perhaps I’ll close with this video of pan player David Hubbard, playing my old time favorite.
Hearing this makes me think of a margarita or at least some sort of drink with a tiny umbrella.   Can’t wait.

Who would have thought that a visit to Blue Hill would bring back memories from so long ago.   Thinking of all of this makes me even more excited about visiting the Caribbean this coming winter aboard Pandora.  Perhaps I’ll even hear Yellow Bird again which would bring things full circle.  Yes, that would be nice.

However, CT is so beautiful in the summer, I am happy to be here for a bit longer.  Besides, the bathroom isn’t finished yet.

You know how it goes, “happy wife, happy life”.  I have to keep reminding myself of that.  Yes Brenda, the bathroom will be done soon, I promise… I hope.

 

 

 

Havana nights. Sharing memories of Cuba.

Last evening Brenda and I were guests of the CT River Museum and spoke at fund raiser event “Havana Nights”.  The event was dreamed up by Chris Dobbs, the Executive Director of the museum.  He’s a creative guy and came up with the dinner idea after hearing me talk at an SSCA Seven seas Cruising Association event that I held at the museum in June.   It was an intimate gathering of supporters of the museum with attendance limited to about 30.

The event, appropriately, was held on the hottest evening yet of the summer on the deck overlooking the beautiful CT River and what a wonderful evening it was.

I brought Pandora to their docks for the evening and decked her out in her finest. It was fun to show the guests the very Pandora that carried me and Brenda on our adventure.   I have to admit that getting her into the slip with current and wind opposing, took a few tries.  However, “no loss of life” and a successful landing. 8-14-16b 028The table was set up banquet style and was beautifully appointed with decorations evoking Cuba.  8-14-16b 037What a lovely view. 8-14-16b 027Pandora wasn’t alone looking fabulous in the sunset glow.   I just love this lovely yawl.   However, I can’t say that I have ever seen her off of her mooring.  She’s a looker to be sure. 8-14-16b 034It was an intimate gathering and everyone seemed to have a great time.  I was touched that they paid a “pretty penny” to raise funds for the museum and came out on a sultry summer night to hear our story. 8-14-16b 038All and all it was a perfect evening and one that Brenda and I were honored to be a part of it.  Oh yeah, and nobody fell asleep during my talk.  Whew!

It was indeed a Havana night moment and brought back so many memories of our trip.

The level of interest in visiting Cuba is amazing and the opportunity to share our voyage with others is very rewarding.  Amazingly, I have ten talks scheduled with three under my belt so far but none will rival the intimacy of the moment that we shared last night.

In the many posts that I wrote while visiting Cuba, I tried to capture the “essence” of the country and our experiences.  When I was back home I wrote this post in an attempt to sum up what it was like to be there.

Last night was a ton of fun and we were so pleased to be a part of such an extraordinary evening and to be able to share our visit to such an extraordinary country.

Cuba is great, you should go too.   Don’t delay.  Go now.

Sailing Pandora:  It takes a village.

Well, that does it, nobody on board but me.  I dropped Barry off in tiny Sakonnet Harbor RI this morning.  As I write this I am passing the “gold coast” of Newport.  There are many cities that have a section that they proudly refer to as The Gold Coast but this one is, for sure, the granddaddy of all gold coasts.   The mansions here are so high end that even the hedge fund guys can’t afford the kind of homes that their robber baron ancestors referred to as “cottages”  It’s hard to believe that those mammoth homes were only occupied for a few weeks each summer.

I’d guess that the main reason that these homes stood vacant for nearly the entire year was because their owners were working hard to make even more money so that they not only had a huge mansion but that theirs was the “most hugest of all”, vacant or not.

All of this makes me remember all those years that I schlepped my boats to Maine and back each summer with the very limited vacation time I had.  Back in those days it took a “crowd” or perhaps better stated, a “village” for me to take my vacation.  With a crew to head up, and I always had at least four on board, to the crew heading back home, one summer it took a total of 15 people to make it possible for me to move my boat north, find a place to keep her when I wasn’t aboard and then to coordinate all crew and logistics for the run home a few weeks later.  For a number of years I resorted to lending my boat to friends with the agreement that they could use the boat for two weeks if they brought her home.    This worked well for a few years until I lent the boat to someone who turned out to have a problem with “adult beverages” and crashed the boat into another boat and ran her up on a rock ledge, both in one day.  That’s a very tough way to start the day.

And, of course, with that many people involved and the reality of weather to contend with, it was a logistical nightmare, crashes excepted.

These days, in my “retired life” it’s a lot simpler but heading back to Maine this time was certainly more like “the good old days” with crew coming and going and last minute “adjustments” to well laid plans. Back then, it just wouldn’t do to tell my boss “I’d love to be at work today, after two weeks away, but the weather, well it was just too windy to get back”.   Yeah right.

I expect that the response would have been something like the old Account Temps radio commercials.  “Don’t worry, Bob from Account Temps is here. Take as long as you want to get back.  EVERYTHING is under control.  We are doing just fine without you.”  Oh great.

Anyway, I digress but all the rushing around and crew changes this time have certainly brought back memories of my “past life”.

As I write this I am sailing along with the big Code Zero sail out on a nice easy broad reach.  It’s very pleasant indeed.

We finally made it through the Cape Cod Canal at around dark last night. However, the wind, while less than 10kts, was right on the nose for the last few hours.  That combined with a flood tide made for a very slow run down Buzzard’s Bay.

We decided to spend the night in Cuttyhunk bight and picked our way in to drop the hook a bit after midnight.  I set the alarm for 05:00 this morning (now that hurt) and sailed the rest of the way to Sakonnett where I dropped off Barry.  He has a summer home there.

The harbor is very tiny and really packed with moorings.  We picked up one of the two town moorings and within moments the harbor master stopped by to see if we were staying the night.  We explained our “touch and go” plans and he very nicely offered to take Barry to shore.  Very neighborly.

What a pretty harbor. 8-8-16a 002They seem to take their commercial fishing seriously.  8-8-16a 004Sorry no obligatory shot of today’s sunrise although it was a stunner.

I guess I’ll close with a shot of Pandora sailing.  No bone in her teeth today.  Just an easy sail back to home waters and “real life”.8-8-16a 006And, the light at Pt Judith.  Back in home waters.8-8-16b 002Did I mention that the lawn needs cutting?  Oh yeah, and there’s a bathroom to finish remodeling.

Welcome home Bob.  If it wasn’t for the fact that Brenda’s there, well, I’d be tempted to just keep going.

One last thing, thanks for helping me Barry.  Life was going to be a LOT more complicated without you.  Yes, indeed, sailing, it takes a village and I am blessed to be a member of a particularly good tribe.

 

 

Heading home. Done with Maine, for now.

As I begin this post it’s Sunday morning and I am in the middle of the Gulf of Maine sailing toward the Cape Cod Canal.  I expect that we will arrive before dark and in time to catch the ebb tide for an easy run through to Buzzard’s Bay.

A few minutes ago, after not seeing another boat for hours, this sword fisherman steamed by.  I can only imagine what it must feel like to be perched up on top of that tall tower in a seaway.  Boy, would Brenda love that.  The drill is that when they spot a swordfish swimming along the surface nearby, one of them will head out onto the bow pulpit and attempt to spear the fish.

“Listen Rodrigues, get your elbow out of my ribs.  I was up here first and I’m standing in the middle.   Stop looking at me like you don’t remember that I am captain today.   I won the coin toss, fair and square.”8-7-16c 008I left Camden last evening  to make the 175 mile run to the canal, after spending much of the day making my way from NE Harbor after my crew from the Corinthians cruise left to head back home.

Originally, the plan was to have one of them stay aboard with me for the return trip but his toe was hurting and it was clear that he wanted to head home.  While this wasn’t good newsl, I didn’t want to press him to stay as it wouldn’t have been good for either one of us.

With one day to find a replacement crew, I was sort of stuck and didn’t really know what I was going to do.  Frankly, I wasn’t ready to leave Maine but to stick around for another week until the weather turned in my favor again wasn’t very appealing.   I also considered leaving the boat in Maine and renting a car but that was very complicated and I have so much on my plate in the coming weeks, that didn’t seem like a good idea.  I also thought about taking Pandora home alone but being out overnight by myself by myself wasn’t something that I was particularly looking forward to.  However, having a crew member aboard that wasn’t happy to be there was an even worse idea.  Time to be flexible.

I made a few calls and amazingly, with one day notice, my friend Barry offered to crew for me even though he was scheduled to crew for someone else already.    I was very touched that Larry, the skipper of the boat he was on, who I hardly know, was so quick to offer one of his crew without hesitation.   Problem solved and a good weather window to boot according to Chris Parker, the weather router.

All and all, it will be very nice to be home again with Brenda.  So after feeling sorry for myself after scrambling to find crew I got a good night sleep, compliments of Barry.   Now, fully recovered and “adjusted”, I am looking forward to being home.  I’ll admit that it helps that I am romping along at about 7kts on a close reach in 10-13kts apparent.  With the big code zero sail out it’s pretty amazing how fast the boat can go.  At this rate we will reach the canal a lot sooner than expected and make it through with a strong ebb tide pushing us along.

Camden is one of my favorite spots in Maine and after motoring all day to get there while dodging thousands of lobster pots, it killed me to leave immediately after taking on fuel and crew.  It would have been nice to have dinner ashore but I was pretty tired and needed a rest.  It also gave Barry an opportunity to settle in aboard Pandora.  I wish that I had been able to take on more fuel as diesel is less than $2/gal there as compared to nearly $3/gal in CT.  Love those CT taxes.   At least it’s still less expensive than in Cuba where it was nearly $6/gal.

After waking up at 04:00 yesterday, thinking about next steps, I was so bushed when we left that Barry took pity on me and stood an extra-long watch when I headed down below to sleep after midnight.  When I woke up the sun was high above the horizon and Barry was clearly ready for a nap.  Thanks Barry.

The time I spent in Maine with the Corinthians was a whirlwind but good fun.  All that we did is now a blur so I am glad that I took the time to do some posts along the way.

I spent the last few days in NE Harbor, one of my favorite spots.  There are two formal gardens there managed by The Garden Preserve and I couldn’t let a visit go by without seeing them both.  Craig, one of my crew, loves gardens  too and we toured both together.

Thuya gardens is up the hill near the harbor with a commanding view of the boats from one of the observation spots. 8-7-16b 007What a view.8-7-16b 003Pandora on her floating dock. 8-7-16b 004This shot of the gardens doesn’t begin to do justice to the wonderful work that the five gardeners do to keep everything in top shape.8-7-16b 015These flowers are huge.  I have only seen dahlias like this in Victoria BC gardens. 8-7-16b 029The entire garden was beautifully scented by huge lilies. 8-7-16b 030Lots of life in the garden including plenty of butterflies.8-7-16b 019The other gardens are Asticou, a formal Japanese garden and they are lovely.  I only had a short time there.  A very serene spot.8-7-16a 035Well, it was a fairly quick but fun visit to Maine and I am very happy that the run back has turned out to be a pleasant trip.

This visit was my 16th to Maine by boat and I couldn’t help to wonder what sort of memories this little girl that I saw picking and eating blueberries on top of Blue Hill earlier in the week will recall many years from now.  I expect that she too will have many fond memories of this wonderful place.   For now, her mother will have to work to get the blueberry stains out of her dress.  8-2-16a 012I for one have just love visiting this beautiful part of the world.  I can’t wait to go back.

Oh yeah, one more thing.   Saw a bunch of whales… again (stifles a yawn).8-7-16d 005

 

An eagle, a snake, a loon, a frog and lots of rocks.

Everywhere you look in Maine there are rocks, rocks as big as a mountain,medium sized boulders or as pint sized as a pebble and about every size in between.  You’d think that with all of the rocks milling around together would also spawn some sand.  Alas, no sand but many, many rocks.

So, the other day we packed a lunch and decided to head out and see how many rocks we could climb over.  Well, that’s not exactly what we had as a goal but that’s more or less what we ended up doing.

The plan was to climb up a a really big rock and visit, well,  “bubble rock”.  I have to say that I had no idea what exactly was meant by “bubble rock”.   My first thought was that the “bubble” was the mountain.  I was wrong.  This is the “bubble” on top of a sort of bubble mountain.   8-5-16a 010It’s way bigger than it looks.  Craig stood next to it and try as he might, he couldn’t budge it.   8-5-16a 006Where is “hulk” when you need him?  “Arnold?  Can you help me out here?”

I claimed the peak, of course.  More rocks. 8-5-16a 023The view of Jordan Pond from Bubble rock was spectacular.  There is a restaurant at the other end of the pond, in the clearing to the right at the far end to put a fine point on it.  That’s where we began and ended our hike.  They are known for their popovers.   We “knew” some popovers after our walk.   Pretty good. 8-5-16a 019 The view from “lake level” to where we climbed. 8-5-16a 032OK, so about that title.  I saw an eagle carrying a snake.   Perhaps not a happy snake at that.   “Weee!!!  Take me higher!8-5-16a 031I also got a shot of a loon.  Check.   He was pretty busy fishing so kept ducking, or would that be “looning”, under the water and popping up somewhere else.   I had a tough time getting a good shot.  As many times as I told him “look at me loon”, no luck. 8-5-16a 038The water was impossibly clear.  What a view.8-5-16a 049And finally, a frog in water, not so clear. 8-5-16a 051So, rocks of many sizes, an eagle, a snake if an unhappy one at that, a loon and a frog plus a popover or two for me and ten thousand steps.   Good day.

Is there anything more Maine than Schooners?

Arguably, there’s nothing more “Maine” than wooden schooners and I had a generous “helping” of them a few days ago in Somes Sound on Mt Desert Island.

As is the case with so much of life’s experiences, it’s all about being in the right place at the right time.   And, as luck would have it, we were as 2016 is the 100th year of the founding of Acadia National Park and the organizer of the Corinthians Cruise found a way for our fleet to participate in a parade of schooners up Somes Sound.  And, as if that’s not enough, we were to lead the parade up one of the most beautiful pieces of water in all of Maine.

And it gets even better.  To make the sight even more of a spectacle for the thousands that watched from shore, about 35 of our member’s boats dressed ship with signal flags galore.

We waited at the mouth of Somes Sound for the schooners to approach as they emerged from the summer afternoon haze.  Well, actually, there wasn’t much of a haze but I liked the sound of that.  8-2-16a 045As the schooners assembled to begin their run up the sound they tacked back and forth.   This one came pretty close to Pandora’s bow.  8-2-16a 038Our fleet began to head up the sound ahead of the schooners in single file. Well, sort of single file.  Then the word came from the Master of the Corinthians, “hurry up, they are going to pass us”.   And hurry we did.8-2-16a 072Things got a bit chaotic after a while and we ended up in more of a clump than single file.  Chaos or not, it was a joyous sight.  My friends Alice and Andy have a cute little tug called Loon.  It was fun to see her chugging along with the fleet. 8-2-16a 059Many local boats got into the act including this lovely little red sloop making her way with the fleet.8-2-16a 070After reaching the head of the sound, The Corinthians turned to face the schooners and watched them sail by.8-2-16a 034What a sight as the schooners passed by and saluted the spectators on shore with cannon fire.8-2-16a 065Love the fine lines of the stern.  Hard to believe that something this big can be so sleek.8-2-16a 067As the schooners passed, the perspective changed and the afternoon breeze freshened.

The schooners turned to short tack back down the sound into the wind.  It was impressive to see them maneuver in so tight a space.8-2-16a 124Our Master Leigh was aboard “All that Jazz”, leading the fleet.  To see the largest schooner in the fleet tack in front of his boat was quite a sight and a fitting way to finish up the parade. 8-2-16a 131We all scrambled to the local boat yard to pick up moorings for the evening.  Like the rest of the day, and to use a phrase that my late father loved, it was “organized chaos”.  Yes Dad, and what joyous chaos it was.

This trip is my 16th to Maine and I have to say that to be in a parade with these magnificent schooner was one of the highlights of those many  years.

What a day.  I was blessed to be a part of such an iconic spectacle that makes Maine, well, Maine.

 

The Small Boats of Maine.

Anyone who’s cruised to Maine, and certainly those who love wooden boats, have made the pilgrimage to the Wooden Boat School and the headquarters for Wooden Boat Magazine.    So, yesterday the cruise headed there from SW Harbor, a distance just short of 20 miles.

As we made our way there yesterday were we passed the iconic Bass Harbor Light.  I believe that this is the most photographed light in Maine.   You can certainly see why.  She’s a beauty.7-31-16a 021Of course, that’s not the only one to feast your eyes on.  How about this one?  It’s still active but unlike the Bass light, this one is someone’s home.  I wonder how well they sleep when the fog horn is blasting away.8-1-16a 030Unfortunately, we weren’t able to sail yesterday or again today as the wind was just too light.  That’s one of the downsides of club cruises as the meals and stops are all planned in advance.  When Brenda and I cruise, we wait to move when there is wind and therefore spend a lot more time sailing.

Let’s hope that by the time the fleet heads back toward NE Harbor in a few days, that we won’t have to beat our heads against the wall to head east. Uncharacteristically, the wind is forecast to be out of an easterly direction for the next few days so we’ll have to wait and see.

So, back to the Wooden Boat School, a place that is a must stop for anyone that admires beautiful wooden boats.  Many credit Jon Wilson, founder of Wooden Boat magazine, with the revival of wooden boat restoration and modern construction.  It takes someone like that to galvanize interest in a dying art.  Clearly the tide has turned and wooden boats are a vital part of the boating community these days.

Speaking of lovely craft, I took a turn around the harbor and photographed some of the lovely craft that are moored there.

This is a sweet canoe stern launch.  Very elegant lines.7-31-16a 029How about the stern on this beauty?7-31-16a 024I loved the detail work on this Friendship Sloop.  Great trail boards.7-31-16a 046I think that this is a Herreshoff 12½ or perhaps a Haven 12½ designed by Joel White as centerboard takeoff on that classic design.   The varnish work is perfect.7-31-16a 033I think that these are International One Designs and may not be wooden.  However, there is a very active fleet in SW Harbor and was racing yesterday afternoon.   Each spinnaker had a unique design and made quite a sight as they raced to the finish line.7-31-16a 008While most of the boats that were moored at the Wooden Boat School are of classic designs, there are plenty of beautiful wooden boats being crafted in Maine of thoroughly modern designs.  How about this wonderful gentleman’s launch that I spied at a marina in SW Harbor?  She’s a real head turner.  They had better never let the varnish work get away from them. 7-31-16a 010I’d say that Pandora takes “modern” to yet another level.  Not a lot of varnish on her.  However, I just love the way she looks and sails.  She looks right at home here in Maine too.7-31-16a 049The sunsets, and I do love sunsets, over the last few days have been spectacular. 8-1-16a 011And a bit later.  Hard to believe that this shot was the same sunset.  8-1-16a 017Perhaps it’s my new camera but this photo actually is better than real life. I guess that’s what they mean when they call it “sunset porn”.   Well, they probably don’t say that but you get the point.   Right?

We are approaching Blue Hill so I’d better finish up for now.   Adios!

If you don’t like the weather…

You know the old saying, “If you don’t like the weather, wait an hour?”  Well, if that sounds about right to  you, you’re in Maine.

After spending months in the Bahamas and Cuba, one can become used to weather that rarely changes, just more of the same… warm, sunny, breezy.  During our two months cruising Cuba I believe that it rained ONCE.  Yup, the weather is pretty predictable!

Not so in Maine.  After only two days here we have experienced just about every type of weather you could possibly expect to have mid-summer.  Yesterday we had light rain, hard rain, bright sunshine, warm temperatures, dense fog and chilly evening, and that was in ONE DAY.  And the weather combined with really dramatic scenery makes it a real winner.  I LOVE IT!!!

Some of the folks we have run into during our travels aboard Pandora have commented on the contrast between the Bahamas and Maine and told us that if they had to choose between the Bahamas or Maine, they’d choose Maine.   Me too.  It’s just beautiful.   Bummer that it’s only a good place to sail in the summer because that’s when I want to be home in CT.

“So Bob, what’s the weather right now?”   Good question.   Wait a moment while I look but I think it’s sunny.  Yup.  Sunny, for the moment anyway.   Satisfied?   Good.

As I write this we are on a mooring in Southwest Harbor, on Mt Desert/Acadia.  It’s a lovely spot.   Yesterday we moved here, in the rain (did I mention that it rained yesterday, and was sunny too?) from Frenchboro where we made landfall in Maine.  What a lovely island.  This is the harbor.   Big tides here.7-30-16a 020About 60 make their home on this little island, nearly all fishing for lobster.   From the harbor you can see Mt Desert and Acadia in the distance, behind the fog bank.  You will just have to trust me on this.7-30-16a 002About ¾ of the island is set aside as a nature preserve.   The coastline of the island is very rugged and is nearly all made up of pink granite. 7-30-16a 010There were butterflies doing their butterfly thing everywhere.  Don’t you just love the new camera?7-30-16a 011Remember the changing weather thing?   Here’s the fog rolling in.  One minute, 10 mile visibility.  The next, well, a lot less.7-30-16a 028When we arrived in SW Harbor I couldn’t resist taking a walk through the marina.  This boat, and she means business, was designed by Steve Dashew.  He’s known for designing and building easily driven hulls in both sail and power.  To me, this design is a near perfect blend of form and function. 7-30-16a 040Personally, I’d love to see her painted but Steve is insistent about low maintenance.    There’s even a grill built into the aft deck.  This is a real ocean going vessel.   And, she’s as expensive as she is impressive.  I’d just love to have one of these. 7-30-16a 039Well, today the Corinthians cruise begins and it will be rah-rah for the next week with 100 of “my closest friends”.   I wonder what the weather will be like?   No, I can guess but I’ll have to wait a few hours to know if I am right.

So far?  Yep, weather.  Welcome to Maine.

Like mother, like daughter.  We’re in Maine!

It’s Thursday morning and we are about 10 miles from our destination for today, Frenchboro on the island of Long Island.   No, not the Long Island in NY the one in Maine.  You can tell because the beaches are, well they aren’t beaches at all, there granite and really, really bumpy and hard.  Oh yeah, the water is 55 degrees too.   It’s worth noting that the water temperature dropped from the high 70s overnight as we made our way north of Cape Cod into the cold waters of the Gulf of Maine.

Yesterday Rodney, my crew for this trip, and I headed out of the Cape Cod Canal to make the 200 mile run across the Gulf of Maine to meet up with the Corinthians Cruise this weekend.

I particularly like the “decoration” on this bridge crossing The Canal, an otherwise unremarkable structure, it looks remarkably delicate with this adornment.7-28-16a 012 I decided to time our departure from the canal so we’d be off of Province Town during the day with the hope of seeing some whales.  And see whales we did.  The winds and waves, well there weren’t any of either and it was very calm which made for easy spotting of whales in what seemed like every direction.   And, a few times we saw huge splashes in the distance as they rose out of the water and landed with a thunderous crash.

It was very tempting to head every which way to see these magnificent creatures up close.  As we still had a long way to travel to get to our destination we opted to keep going with one exception.  Not far from us and only about 4 miles north east of the tip of Cape Cod, we spotted two spouts, one small and the other large, rising perhaps a steamy 10’ out of the water,  about a mile off.

We headed toward them and enjoyed watching a mother and calf (daughter?) swimming lazily along.  I cut the engine and drifted nearby.  What a sight.  You could hear the rush of air as mom took a deep breath. 7-28-16a 033Calf or not, they were big and bigger.   You can see her huge “fins?” showing white on either side.  7-28-16a 047It is easy to imagine how these creatures were hunted to near extinction as it is very easy to see them “blowing” miles away.  If it wasn’t for the timely discovery of oil in Pennsylvania that made whale oil uneconomical, I doubt that there would be a single whale left anywhere.  Doesn’t that make you want to hug an oil company?  Hmm…

While we were enjoying our “whale encounter” there were plenty of SUVs spending time in the “wilderness” at the very tip of The Cape.  I don’t get the whole “let’s drive out to the beach and sit by the truck honey.”   “Don’t worry kids, you won’t have to step in that icky sand, I’ll leave the engine running and windows rolled up so you can stay cool and play video games”.

There was a mile or two of them lined up like birds on a wire.  Go figure.7-28-16a 020And speaking of going to the beach, this tug, moored in The Canal, looks like business and I can imagine that they have been called upon to keep some stricken ship from finding their own special place on the beach too.7-28-16a 004As I came on watch last night, I was treated to a rising moon.  Amazingly, the new camera took a photo in such low light.  7-28-16a 106Don’t you just love image stabilization?

All, and all, it was an unremarkable crossing with some sailing but a lot of hours on the engine.  Today, we’ll enjoy time ashore and go for a walk on Long Island.  Tomorrow, off to South West Harbor to get ready for a week of “rah-rah” with 75 of our closest friends.

That will surely be a contrast to the solitude of mother and daughter humpback enjoying a lazy day on a glassy calm ocean.

Well, I guess I’d better sign off now as I am back in cell range and anxious to talk to Brenda.  Besides, it’s been more than 24 hours since we talked.   Actually, 25 ½ , to be exact, but who’s counting.

However, it’s good to be in Maine again.  It’s been a while.

Heading Down East:  Mt Desert Island, here we come.

It’s just after 07:00 and we are underway, making our way toward the Cape Cod Canal.  The current that will carry us through to Cape Cod Bay begins a bit after 10:00 so it’s likely that we will arrive with some adverse current for a while.  The canal, built in the 30s, I think, and is about 10 miles long.   Without that engineering wonder, I doubt that many would make the trip up to Maine.  Heading all the way out to Nantucket, through Pollock Rip and up to Maine would be a pretty painful and long trip.  Besides, the currents and rough conditions that are often east of Chatham, on the “elbow” of the Cape, would dissuade most, me included, from making the trip.  The Canal is a great example of “your tax dollars at work”.  Well, at least the tax dollars of your grandparents.

Our run yesterday was about 70 miles and saw some very nice sailing, likely the only sailing that we will enjoy for the rest of the run.  It is possible that we will be able to sail a bit this afternoon but the winds are forecast to be quite light for the next few days.

The 20kt SW wind that pushed us along so nicely yesterday has died and a slight drift from the North has taken it’s place.  I was greeted by this absolutely beautiful dawn this morning.  What a sight.7-27-16a 011As we headed out of Cuttyhunk this morning we were greeted by the Loch Ness Monster.    Well, that’s what it looked like to me.  I am sure that you can see it, especially if you squint really, really hard.  Right?7-27-16a 005OK, OK, it was a family of seals.

The other members of their very extended family were sleeping it off on a nearby sandbar.  I was pleased that the lovely lobster boat cut in front of me as I snapped the photo.  Try to do that twice.7-27-16a 004Speaking of “snapping shots”.   Our old Olympus camera finally died and after months of limping along with it in Cuba, frustrated by problems with white balance and focusing problems, we bit the bullet, and it was a pretty big bullet, and purchased a shiny new Canon.  What a piece of machinery, with a single lens really really long lens replacing the two that I had on the last camera.  This lens has image stabilization and is a whopping 16mm to 300mm in a single zoom package.   It’s remarkable to see the improved color saturation and clarity, even in rough or low light conditions.

One downside of the new camera though is that the photo files are “ginormous” at 8 megs per shot, about 3x bigger than my last camera.  I had better be pretty selective about which photos I keep on my computer or I’ll have to get a new one.  Actually, my laptop is something like 7 years old (how old is that in dog years exactly?) and was acting up already, even before I started manipulating these new massive photos.

Keping up with this “arms race of megapixels” reminds me of the first time I installed refrigeration on my Tartan 37. The massive draw of electricity that the unit needed meant that I ended up putting in a much larger battery bank and then, against my will, a high output alternator to charge them.  Those ice cubes that I “needed” to chill my gin and tonic ended up costing about $10 a piece or was that $100.  Who knows, but a nice cold G&T, or two, makes for a perfect end to a day.   And views like this one, helped along with a G&T of course, from last night… Priceless.7-27-16a 006Earlier in the evening, as the sun sunk below the western horizon, the light washed over nearby Nashawena Island giving it a lovely glow.7-27-16a 024So, I expect that we will be out of cell/Internet range beginning mid-day today although we may regain service briefly as we pass Provincetown, at the tip of Cape Cod, later this afternoon.

After that, Maine.