Now there’s Hope for Pandora
Bequia has long been known for its fine craftsman, artists and the building of boats, both model and full size as well working on boats like ours that visit the island.
Owning a boat requires a constant investment of time and money as it’s the only way to avoid waking up one day only to realize that you are living aboard a “fixer upper”. Boat ownership is all about being focused on “fixing her up” so she stays looking good.
We were told that there are some excellent craftsman here on the island and had planned to have some work done while we visited. In particular, we hoped to have canvas covers or “chaps” made for our dink. The blazing tropical sun is pretty tough on everything and an inflatable dink is particularly susceptible to decay. Having one of the better brands like Caribe, ours, does help as they are made with high quality Hypalon but even the best materials will only hold up just so long with near year round use.
So, with that in mind, we decided to have a custom canvas cover made here in Bequia. We had heard good things about Grenadines Sails and Canvas so I contacted them about the job. Amazingly, when I showed up they were ready to go and within 24 hours I had installed chaps. I also had them make a new seat cover, engine cover and lift straps.
I was fascinated with the process of making templates. It took three hours to prepare the details in plastic sheeting templates to be transferred to canvas in the shop. I just pulled the dink up on the beach under a tree. 
The next day I went back and they installed the finished product, a perfect fit. The canvas is held in place by a combination of velcro straps and lines. I had two close my eyes and turn away as he went at the rub rail with an electric drill to make holes that hold the lines that tie the canvas securely to the dink. I asked him how many times he had slipped and punctured a boat. He smiled and continued drilling holes. 
However, it all worked out and the finished job, chaps, engine cover and new seat cover. The guys posed for a shot with the finished job. Nice work. 
So, here’s Pandora’s dink, christened Hope all happy behind the “mother ship”. “Bob, Bob, what’s with the HOPE thing?”
Ok, so remember the whole “Pandora’s Box” thing? You know, she opened the box and let out all the evils of the world? Well, according to legend, all that was left in the box was Hope. Get it? Pandora’s Box, Hope? Pretty clever? So, our dink is now officially Little Hope. However, that was just too many letters to fit so Hope it is.
And, “hopefully”, pun intended, Pandora’s dink will now last a lot longer with her snug fitting canvas cover. The bad news is that now I have yet one more thing to try and keep clean. Oh well. Nice dink though. I’d better be sure and lock it up, always so it doesn’t somehow become somebody else’s Little Hope.
Canvas work is just one of the excellent products that are produced here in Bequia. There is also a long tradition of building boats and model boats and there are still a number of craftsman that are continuing the tradition. The model boats are actually carved out of a log from a native tree. 
After marking up the log they carve it into a rough shape of the hull. 
And, after a while, a finished model boat. Many actually. Some are of famous yachts and you can also commission a model of your own boat. 
However, the bulk pf the models are of the traditional working boats of Bequia, in particular, those used to hunt whales, which is still legal, if tightly controlled. They hunt, using only sail powered boats, and harpoon a few humpback whales each year along with a number of smaller pilot whales.
As you’d expect, where there are whales, there would be things made from whales. We saw the work of a local craftsman and asked him to make up a scrimshaw of a traditional Bequia sailboat on a pilot whale tooth. Pretty neat. It’s the closest I’ll ever get to a tattoo. 
There is tradition of boat building and they still race them aggressively. Nice looking boats.
Now for a few random items.
How about a pretty heron?
Brenda and I enjoyed walking along the seawall. There are a number of nice places to eat along the way. 
Right near the walkway we spied this moray eel swimming in the shallows. The water in the harbor is quite clear.
And, under the category of “multi-talented”. How about this sign for an gallery/doctor office? The same guy, BTW.
I wonder if this guy’s dink has new chaps? Canvas covers for his helicopter, more likely? For sure.
Several years ago we sailed on this huge ketch Marie. She’s here too, along with a few other massive sailboats. It seems that she was here for some informal racing against several other “big girls” today as they all left at the same time and milled around for a while before they took off. 
I was hoping to stop by later and see if any of the crew that we met are still around. The experience of sailing on such a magnificent yacht was something else, let me tell you. You can see a number of posts about this experience but click here to see one about a party aboard that we went to. Want to see some of the up close shots of Marie? Click here. It would sure be great to be aboard her again and it was fun to talk to some of the other cruisers we saw last night when they remarked, “did you see that huge ketch Marie?”. “Yes, we did, and we have sailed on her.” They were impressed. And we were too, let me tell you.
On a more humble note, I was surprised to see this tattered Essex Yacht Club burgee hanging in one of the local bars. I wonder if our club burgee came down to Bequia all the way from Essex CT on a member’s boat or if a member chartered chartering locally and flew it. I’ll have to ask when we get back to CT.
And, finally, for those who follow this blog, you’ll recognize this Suzuki Carry truck below as similar to one that I have at home and use to get around town. Mine, new in 1992, is registered as an antique, and is more than 25 years old. I tried to explain why I have such a silly truck in this post. Doesn’t make sense to you? It still doesn’t to Brenda either. This one is fairly new and it’s not white. It’s still tiny though. It sure fits in here better than mine does sharing the roads with huge Ford F150s back in CT. 
Well, I guess that’s about all for now, an odd mix of stuff to be sure. However, one thing that carries through, I hope, is that Bequia is the place to go if you are drawn to things made by people who take pride in their work. All that with the possible exception of a bird, a few yachts and an odd truck thrown in for good measure.
And yes, for Pandora there’s still a Little Hope in all her new finery and I like that.
And, as Brenda has said, “Bob and the dog, ever HOPEfull.”
And, speaking of varnish, which I was, she has plenty along with a large enough crew to keep up with it. I love the color of the boat, Columbia Grey, I am told. Pandora’s dark green is very hot in the tropical sun and we are considering having her repainted in Antigua, perhaps a medium grey. Changing her color is complicated and more expensive than just going with the same color again, so we’ll have to see what comes of that. I have lined up someone to do it when I get to Antigua in mid April but it’s unclear if there will be time to get the job done before I leave to head to New England in early May.
She looks enormous on the dock compared with Pandora out in the harbor. 
Just about everywhere you go in the southeast Caribbean, “boat boys” approach you selling something. This guy was selling bananas. We bought some and paid too much. He reminded us of the Grinch, in looks, not temperament. 
Across the harbor was a trail that led up to the top of the hill. I climbed up the impossibly steep trail, complete with installed ropes to hold as you pulled yourself up. I didn’t think I’d make it. Later I was told that many 20 somethings turn back because it’s so steep. Go me! Trust me, it was way, way steeper than it looks in this photo.
At the top, after many stops to catch my breath along the way, I was told to look for the “meditation platform”. By the time I got there it looked more like a “recovery platform” to me, a place to lay down to listen to my pounding heart as it slowed to normal. Most of the time really steep paths have many switchbacks to make the climb easier. Not here.
There’s little Pandora way down below. 
And the view south toward the Pitons, the short run to where we were headed the next day. 
The Pitons, one of the most photographed sites in the Caribbean, are two 1,000′ tall cones from long extinct volcanoes. They are impossibly steep and the ocean drops off quickly to more than a mile deep very close to the shore. 
We took a mooring in 140′ because of the dropoff. I have never taken a mooring in that much water. The gusty winds swirled around us we swung one way or the other by 100′ or more because of the impossibly long scope on the mooring. It was gusty there, so close to the rising mountains so we had to get help from one of the local “boat boys” to tie up. As high as the “hill” looks, its actually a lot higher. As they say, “you had to be there”. 
We headed ashore to a very fancy resort on the beach and enjoyed the setting sun from our table under the palms. It was a “million dollar view” and the bar tab was right in line. How about $100 for two glasses of wine each and a single appetizer? 
The next day we dropped the mooring first thing and headed south to Bequia. As we rounded the southern tip of St Lucia the seas were very confused with a strong western setting current pushing against us. That combined with the wind funneling around the headlands made for some pretty “sporty” conditions for the first hour. In spite of my having carefully secured the dink I was concerned about how much it was moving around in the davits. Fortunately, no damage.
It was a long day, nearly 60 miles, as we could not stop in St Vincent, a large island just north of here as it’s not safe. Too bad that some bad actors have scared off all the cruisers. 
Bequia is truly an island of boaters and there is a very active junior sailing program with some really nice boats. They sailed right by us through the turquoise waters. 
Heading back up wind, they looked like they were having a wonderful time. To me, this picture just speaks to the exuberance of kids out sailing for an afternoon as they tacked through the anchored boats. 
The customs house is right near the dinghy dock. Very Caribbean. True to form, with it’s English heritage, clearing in was much more complicated than the French islands.
Main street in the village is tree lined and very quaint. 
I liked this scruffy building framed in flowers. 
Everything here is very colorful, even the ferry boats lined up at the dock. 
Well, I guess that’s about it for today. The WiFi is really slow and doing this post has taken me FOR EVER.
And speaking of hustle, there are plenty of day boats taking large groups of tourists out for a day of snorkeling and sightseeing. A parade of these jam packed boats come through the harbor every day. I wonder if the USCG would approve of their safety equipment? Perhaps better not to ask.
Ok, how about some boat watching? I love this little 
Perhaps something with a bit more creature comfort is what you’re looking for. RH3 is a beautiful explorer yacht that went through a major refit just a few years ago. She’s rugged and looks the part of a world cruiser, which she is. 
Her tenders are impressive and this one, that I guess they must tow around, would fit right in a James Bond movie. And, that doesn’t even count the two smaller equally sinister looking ones parked on the upper deck. His and hers?
I am particularly struck by this Lefite 44. She is an 80s vintage and yet doesn’t look it as her owner has lovingly maintained her, along with some excellent craftsmen in Trinidad where she has been stored for a number of summer seasons. She must be the best of her breed and I understand that she’s for sale. Bob Perry, perhaps the leading designer of cruising boats, designed her back in 1978. 
And speaking of nice boats. How about Pandora sitting pretty in this tiny charming harbor?
Well, it’s almost lunchtime and, as usual, not a lot has happened aboard Pandroa so I’d better, as my father used to say, “get the lead out”. Actually, I have to clear out today so we can leave in the morning for the Pitons and then on to Bequia. 
We left shortly after sunrise to make the run down the coast. We had a short, less than 10 mile run before turning into Marigot. The western coast of St Lucia is very green and lush. 
The outer harbor of Marigot is quite narrow and mostly too deep to anchor, however, you can anchor along the side near shore in less than 20′. There is a beautiful stand of palms along the spit that protects the inner harbor. They framed the view that greeted me this morning in the early light. The wind and water were uncharacteristically still. Those palms really make the place look remote and plenty tropical, like a south seas village. 
However, it’s not remote at all with the really lux, 
There are actually a number of restaurants to choose from, some alongside infinity pools and many of the rooms have their own mini-pool just outside the room.
One cascades into the other. 
If all this isn’t in your budget, you can always go next door and get your hair cut. 
Want to rent a small boat yourself. There’s plenty to choose from on the waterfront. 
However, most of the residents, and some of them are particularly well heeled, probably keep their own barber on board. Tommy Hilfiger’s yacht, Flag pulled in yesterday. It was amazing to see such a huge yacht navigate in this tiny teacup harbor and pull up to the dock. They do advertise as being able to handle yachts up to 250′ long and Flag is nearly that big. I realized that it was Hilfiger’s yacht because his “corporate” flag logo was on the side of the superstructure. After a bit of digging, I confirmed it. It’s amazing what you can find on the Internet. 
That ketch is a mere 200′ long. Not too shabby.
Atlante, another resident here when we arrived yesterday, is much smaller at only a tad over 100 feet and is only a few years old. She’s spectacular. 
Yes, this is a pretty rarefied neighborhood and it’s going to be tough to pry ourselves away. It’s supposed to get fairly windy for a few days so perhaps we will just have to hang out here for a bit and then move further south.
A square rigger ablaze with lights in the twilight. 
We’ve been here for two days and plan to leave in the morning to head down-island to the Pitons, perhaps one of the most photographed places in the Caribbean. After that, we will head to Bequia to rejoin a few of our cruising friends for a few days relaxing in what some say is their favorite island in the chain.
The view south toward the Pitons and a schooner heading out. 
This harbor was an important stronghold for the British during the 17th and 18th centuries. Nearby Martinique, which is easily seen from the fort lookout, was an important port for the French so keeping watch afforded a good view of any impending attack.
When we returned from our hike a fruit and vegetable vendor came to visit in his “eclectic” store. 
We bought a variety of produce including this huge and very lumpy lemon. The produce looked pretty rough compared to what we see in US markets but I expect that what it lacks in good looks will be made up by great taste. In the US we sometimes forget what local is supposed to look like. 
As I headed in to do some errands and this post, I passed a lovely gaff rigged sloop plying the blue waters of the harbor.
Well, it’s taken a lot longer to do this post than it should have thanks to really, really SLOOOOW Wifi. I had to try two different spots until I found a spot where the speed was, sort of, OK. It seems that mid day is just too busy with lots of folks competing for time on the server and everything just slows to a crawl.