We are still here in Deshais, Guadeloupe and this morning were visited by a turtle that has been keeping us company over the last few days. He’s/She’s about 18″ long. 
There is a bit of a swell coming into the harbor so we had a somewhat rolly night but the sun is out and it’s a beautiful day.
I am in a little cafe as I write this and spied this little heron as I came ashore. 
Yesterday Brenda and I rented a car with some new cruising friends and toured the island of Guadeloupe. We had lunch in an excellent French restaurant along the way and visited a rum distillery but the highlight of the day was a hike into the rainforest to view Les Chutes de Carbet a spectacular double waterfall with a total combined vertical drop of nearly 600′.
To get there we drove up an impossibly winding narrow road with dozens of switchbacks along the way, some so narrow that two approaching cars could not pass at the same time. Once we arrived at the entrance to the park, we noticed a number of emergency vehicles lined up. It wasn’t until later that we saw someone being carried out on a stretcher. She had obviously fallen somewhere on the trail. I’ll admit that did give all of us pause and I was extra careful along the way. 
Near the parking area was an overlook to give us an idea of what we were going to see, the spectacular double falls in the distance. 
The path we took was labeled as easy and was very well maintained with pavers and wooden walkways the entire way. However, because of the constant wet from rain and mist, it was still slippery. 
Everywhere you turned, something was growing, from tiny moss and ferns to trees hundreds of feet tall. 
It seemed like every branch had something growing on it. 
Some of the ferns were 40′ tall with fronds that stretched 8′.
The path followed the stream up to the falls. 
The top of the mountain, some 4,000′ tall, was shrouded in clouds and mist. 
After walking up and down, down and up, we arrived at the overlook with the water crashing down from the lower falls in the distance. What a view.
There was a little bird looking at us, perhaps hoping for a handout. 
I am always on the lookout for orchids and didn’t see any. That’s not unusual as they generally grow high up in the forest canopy, hundreds of feet up where the light is bright but hard to see from the forest floor.
However, a few days ago, I went for a short hike near the harbor and did see some vanilla orchid vines. They were not in flower but I am pretty sure that ‘s what they are. This particular species grows pretty close to sea level, not high up in the mountains. The vines can grow hundreds of feet long and are the source of “vanilla beans”. 
The island mountains are so steep and there is only a single road that runs around the perimeter of the island, with what seems like hundreds of switchbacks and winding curves that follow the coastline. Driving these roads can get tiring after a while as it’s more like a slalom course where going more than 30 kph is tough.
Along the way we visited a distillery, billed as the Musee du Rhum. It was a bit odd, I’ll admit, to be tasting their wares at 10:00 in the morning. 
A charming building. 
Including a mix of new and old. 
I swear that I only had a tiny taste.
As a museum, they had a very eclectic mix of stuff in their collection. A number of ship models including such unrelated designs as a Mississippi steamer, Christoper Columbus’s ships and, well, an odd mix. 
Along with some life size dinosaur models, both outside and in, they had a huge collection of bugs in frames. 
Tiny ones all lined up behind glass. 
Butterflies of all kinds. 
And lots that I’d hate running into at night. 
Some bigger than you’d want to imagine, about 12″ long. To make matters worse, they are the sort that flies, I expect. 
Of course, everyone’s favorites, horned beetles. 
Ask yourself, what museum is complete without a collection of sand, all carefully labeled?
After the tour of the collection, all I could think of was someone saying “what in the world are we going to do with Dad’s collections? Have a tag sale? No, wait, let’s open a museum! Any better ideas?”
Anyway, it was a wonderful, if long, day and a great way to get a feel for what Guadeloupe has to offer.
And, now we have replenished our rum stores aboard Pandora. Yum.
That and a walk in the woods. Perfect.
And even more beautiful under a full press of sails.
Mary Rose has had a number of owners over the years including Hugh Hefner, who used her as a set for a 1959 issue of Playboy. She was called Gallant at that time. 
Mary Rose is very likely in way better shape these days than the “bunnies” that spent time aboard her nearly 60 years ago.
Today she lives a somewhat less exciting life full time in English Harbor, Antigua where I spent time aboard with her owner Gerald. I had been admiring Mary Rose for a number of years as she swung on her mooring off of the Admiral’s Inn and had wondered how I might get aboard for a look. 
Gerald keeps here in Antigua full time and stores her, during the hurricane season, in what might be best described as concrete bunker designed to withstand hurricane force winds. It is in her cocoon that a long list of off-season chores are done to keep her looking new as she prepares to enter her second century.
And the original builders plaque commemorating her as design #954.
How about these beveled port lights, original of course. 
And, as you would expect, beautiful deck hatches, worthy of any proper yacht. 
Her hardware, and it’s all original, has been refurbished over the years. 
The goose neck, with it’s interesting vertical bar is worth noting. When the sail is hoisted, the boom raises up to the top of the slide. 
Gerald was proud to show me the recent scarf joints on the boom where there had been some decay. It was beautifully done with perfect hairline glue lines. 
Everywhere lovely leather covers for shell blocks and covering whatever hardware might mar the decks, varnish or paint. 
I was taken by what must have been a very innovative piece of hardware on her mast track to hoist the storm sail. 
One departure from the original designed to make here easier to sail short handed, was the addition of a boom-kin. Of course, Gerald consulted with experts at the Herreshoff museum in Bristol RI where he sits on the board of directors. It’s a lovely addition and surely Capt Nat, always the innovator himself, would have approved. This change made it possible to remove one of the two sets of running backstays, an important simplification. 
And, on the pointy end. 
As you head down below. What a banister and the classic “Herreshoff interior” white panels with varnished wood trim.
Wonderful glazing on the interior cabinets in the main salon. 
And a commemorative print when she was launched way back when. However, no sign of that 1959 cover shot. 
A very nice, functional galley. Of course, with the modern conveniences of generator and refrigeration to keep things civilized when cruising.
It’s clear from the stuff stored in the forepeak that she is a yacht that is used and not some sort of static museum piece. 
Beautiful restored hardware in the two heads complete with modern heads. 
A very nice master cabin although I expect it is a bit stuffy in the tropical climate. 
All and all, Mary Rose is a proper yacht with a caring owner and it is clear that he is committed to bringing her into her second century in grand style.
The village is impossibly charming with a little French bakery and loads of, you guessed it, French restaurants to choose from. As we got here fairly late yesterday, we ate aboard and enjoyed a bottle of rose, some French cheese and cured meats that I purchased in a charming little shop. Yum! No, make that Triple Yum.
The harbor can be crowded and arriving late in the day we had to anchor fairly far out in 40′ of water. It was a bit rolly but this morning we were able to move in closer and it’s much more settled. At 25′ deep you can clearly see the bottom. Schools of 
There isn’t much wind right now as the trades are low which is a good time to visit. Interestingly, while the trades are always from the east, this harbor has an onshore light westerly wind, a sort of Station Wagon effect, where the wind blows over the mountains and curls around 180 degrees in the lee of the island.
They would be waving American flags, I’d expect. “Here they come! I see them coming into the harbor. Yes, It’s Pandora, I see them, both Bob and Brenda are aboard! YES!!!”
“No wait, it’s only a little rowboat.”
Never mind. 
The guys on this boat, and there were four aboard, really looked excited to be here. 
A few days ago, a three man team arrived, brothers. It was quite moving to see them greeted by family and friends. 
And there were speeches all around. They were justifiably proud of what they had accomplished. The MC asked them what the most memorable moment was on the trip and they talked about how a butterfly flew by their boat, following a gale, more than 1,500 miles from anything. 
We have had birds land on board Pandora many times, often more than 500 miles from shore,. Amazing stamina for a tiny insect, flying so far.
I can only imagine how emotional it must have been for them to arrive after so long at sea and under such tough conditions. 
These guys were clearly happy with their accomplishment. I wonder if they were this “buff” at the beginning of their trip. Probably, but now “super buff” and very happy to be “home”. 
Seeing the teams greet family was quite moving. Most were overcome by emotion as soon as they stepped on the dock, reunited with loved ones, wives and babies that they had not seen for months. 
Every moment of each team’s arrival was captured from every angle.
These boats are all nearly identical, only longer or shorter depending on the number of rowing stations. I am told that some of the boats are shipped home after the race and some sold here in Antigua. I doubt that they are used more than once by many individual teams. “Hey guys, that was fun, wana row back?”
According to the official site, some facts…
This short video gives a good feel for what the arrival was like and highlights from some of the races. There is no doubt about it, this is indeed “The Worlds Toughest Row”.
Come to Antigua and find out for yourself.
High up on the ridge, overlooking the dockyard, the strong winds were really whipping. Seeing the tall grass swaying in the breeze was beautiful. 
He talked about the history of some of the building, each with their own story. 
His description of the ruins and life in that era gave us a good feel for what life must have been like here so many years ago. 
I’ve mentioned this in a past post, but from the bluff, you could see Eric Clapton’s compound way down below. 
After the tour, just as it was getting dark, our group headed back to town. Interestingly, here in the Caribbean, dusk is very short and sunset to pitch dark is quick, perhaps about 30 minutes. Not a lot of twilight in these parts.
Phoenix 2 was launched for Jan Kulczyk in 2010, then the richest guy in Poland, for a reported $160,000,000. Unfortunately, under the category of “you can’t take it with you”, 
This recent addition to the relentless need to “keep up with the Joneses” world of the uber-rich has only happened in the last few years but I am sure that you will agree that if you were forced to cram all your stuff into a single yacht it would be quite annoying. “Garson, can you PLEASE get Dimitri’s chopper off of the sundeck? I’d like to work on my tan.”
Across the dock is Phoenix which is so much larger in displacement in spite of being about the same length. 
Everywhere you look, something more expensive looking than you’d expect. How about these boarding ladders and most with a intercom to announce yourself. “Can I trouble you for a bit of Grey Poupon?” “No, go away!”
I guess that’s it for now and as I continue to recover from my ill advised sampling out of the local fruits, I expect that the crew and owners on these huge yachts of wealth know better.
She is EOS, one of the largest sailing yachts in the world, at over 300′. She’s so large that they had to bring her into the harbor backwards, in the dark, because she is too large to turn around in the basin. She’s owned by 
I guess that the big question is why do we spend so much time, MONEY and energy on boats when they cause such heartache.
And, as if this view isn’t spectacular enough, I expect that a passing shower will show up in the next hour or so and leave a beautiful double rainbow in it’s wake.
Break out another thousand? I’d prefer not to think about all that, I’ll just enjoy the view.
The normally strong trade winds have been light which has made sleeping a bit tough as it’s pretty warm down below in the evenings, without a cooling breeze. But, what a beautiful view of the still waters in the early morning light. 
And a view of the Admiral’s Inn and the beautiful classic schooner, Mary Rose, to our stern, glowing. The pillars to the left once formed the base for the Georgian era sail loft that served Lord Nelson’s navy when this harbor was England’s base of operations for the Caribbean or West Indies. The British fought hard to keep control of what is still perhaps the best harbor in the Caribbean. 
Brenda and I have been taking advantage of the light winds to enjoy a “cocktail cruise” in the harbor each evening. Daily cruises like these have been a part of our boating life for 40 years now. It’s a wonderful way to end the day. Once the trades kick back in, probably next week, our tradition will be put on hold until things settle down again. But for now, seeing a sunset like this, at the mouth of the harbor, with Montserrat in the distance, and the waves breaking on the shore, is the perfect accompaniment to a gin and tonic. 
Of course, what better way to ring in the new year after a wonderful dinner at the Inn than with fireworks in a tropical setting, viewed from a comfortable chair on Pandora’s bow? To see the “rocket’s red glare” over the iconic Nelson’s Dockyard is something to behold. 
Even without the light show, the nightly view of the yachts from Pandora’s deck is beautiful. This photo, a bit blurry in the dark, doesn’t do the view justice. 
In spite of the impressive array of yachts, the harbor is actually fairly empty as most of the really big yachts left town to celebrate the New Year in nearby St Barths, the most exclusive island in the Caribbean and the winter playground of billionaires, all jockeying to show off their wealth. I am told that many boats will return to Antigua in the next week as the holidays wind down.
I’d say that she’s sort of a speedboat crossed with a chrome and glass man-pad. It’s hard to see in this photo but she, “he?” sports two huge 5-6′ diameter, many bladed props that look like they mean business. No swimming off the stern while the engine is running. Or, if the owner is thinking about turning in the “little woman” for a newer model, “Honey, how about a dip off the stern before we head out. You go ahead, I’ll be down in a moment. I just need to check out something up in the cockpit.”
Go fast or not, I prefer the sailing yachts and there are plenty to choose from if you have the coin and most are so big that even the 1% crowd need not apply. How about this beautiful schooner?
I had to get special permission from the guard on the dock to get close to her. Fortunately, I knew the guard, Shirley so she just waived me by. Guarding aboard this one was a “yacht yard guard dog” following my every move, sitting on one of her huge winches, perhaps a favorite perch. Or was it a guard dog bed? Only he knows. 
While Antigua is clearly the playgroup of the uber-wealthy, there are also some beautiful, if less exotic boats to enjoy like this lovely Carriacou sloop heading out for a day sail. 
Today I walked over to nearby Falmouth to see what sort of huge yachts were there. While the marina isn’t even close to full, it has an amazing array of hardware. This dink, a bit fancier than our own “Hope” suggests something about the “mother ship”. 
And, speaking of Mother ships, how about this one?
And she’s complete with plenty of “toys” including this 800hp tender. I wonder how fast she goes? Too fast for me in any sort of seaway, I expect, where she would surely launch herself from wave top to wave top. 
And of course there’s always the iconic Maltese Falcon, with her unique Dyna Rig square sails. She was built for a Venture Capital guy, Tom Perkins, now deceased and is now in full time charter. She can be yours and yours alone for a cool half million per week. 
Not cool enough for you? Perhaps one of these. And, ask yourself, what does someone who has enough money to afford a boat like Here Comes The Sun, do to “keep up the Joneses”? You can charter her for about $1.5 million per week. Of course, that’s plus expenses, fuel tips and the like. 
And with “Sun” you can also opt to charter a “shadow yacht”. The aptly named Pink Shadow will be there to carry all the toys you’ll need. The concept, as I understand it, is that by using a shadow yacht, you can go with a Mother ship that is smaller than you might otherwise require. Of course, shadow or not, Here Comes The Sun is still a bit girl at 300′. Going this route allows you to save room aboard and put all those bulky toys on a separate boat, ship, yacht, or whatever you want to call it that can follow you around like a little pink puppy. Catch a gander at the crane that Lil Pink sports?
Getting back into the “mere mortals” category, here’s 
And, of course where there is one race boat, there’s bound to be others. Right next to Maiden, is a state of the art sled. Big difference in the look of speeders now. 
And now, for a bit about the reality of “yachting for the regular folks”, that’s us. They say that cruising is nothing much more than boat repair in exotic places and our personal experience would confirm that statement.
The guys were aboard for way longer than expected and I can’t wait to get the bill. 
So there you have it, boat repair for the “little people” in exotic places and plenty of the “other half” on hand to remind us just how little we, or at least our bank accounts, are.