It’s been a bit over 24 hours since we left Hampton, VA, on Thursday morning and we have covered about half of the 350 miles toward home at a speed of just under 7kts. That’s not bad given the fact that we ran the engine until noon yesterday and for much of the rest of the time we have been dead downwind with only the mainsail up to move us along.
The jib doesn’t work well when the wind is directly behind us as the boom tends to slam around in the lee of the main. I need to talk to the designer or perhaps a rigger to see what we can rig up to keep the jib boom under control. Of course, one option would be a whisker pole but I don’t particularly like the idea of having to go forward when things get dicey to pull it in. Having the jib poled out would speed us up a bit but perhaps we are fast enough anyway. I generally don’t find myself motor sailing much to keep our speed up so perhaps that’s the answer.
The wind has been directly astern and running in the high teens and now low 20s. That sounds like a lot of wind but as we are now moving dead down wind at about 8kts, the apparent wind is not bad at all. Pandora tracks very well under these conditions in spite of waves that are in the 6-8′ range and the autopilot handles it just fine. I am happy to report that the pilot is behaving well as the “crazy Ivan” problem that we had when the plotter failed seems have been resolved now that the new plotter is in place.
I don’t know when we are likely to round Montauk, at the eastern tip of Long Island but It’s probably going to be around 03:00 tomorrow. It might even be sooner by a few hours as the wind is supposed to freshen to the mid 20s with gusts around 30, again from the same direction, so our speed will probably be in the 8kt range for much of the trip going forward.
As I think about some sort of pole to hold the jib out, I can’t help but imagine having to pull it in and stow it in 8′ seas and gusts to 30kts. That doesn’t sound like fun to me.
Yesterday, just before dark, we were visited by a large pod of dolphins, perhaps 30 or so. They darted around Pandora for about a half hour before vanishing as quickly as they arrived. The pod was made up of adults and juveniles with some that were quite small swimming along with their mothers. As you’d expect, it was mostly the “kids” that leapt high into the air as the raced back and forth down the side of Pandora. My crew, Jim and Charlie were as thrilled as I was to enjoy the spectacle. And, try as I might, I just couldn’t seem to capture any of them doing acrobatics, the dolphins, not Charlie or Jim, of course.
As we rounded the tip of the DE/MD peninsula to make our way north yesterday we hugged the coastline much of the way and in spite of being about 10-12 miles off the coastline, I had cell coverage until late afternoon. I wasn’t expecting that as in past years it’s been rare to have coverage that far out. Oddly, in the Caribbean coverage generally extended up to 15 miles from shore, probably because the towers are so high up on the mountains. Of course, the coastline of the U.S. is a lot less mountainous so you’d expect the signal to not go out as far. However, in spite of that, it seems like it’s better than in past years. Perhaps the technology has improved. Oddly though, coverage at our home is still terrible, even with a booster installed in the attic. Go figure.
Anyway, we are having a great sail with steady winds pushing us along our way. At this point, we expect to carry favorable and plenty strong winds all the way into Long Island Sound. It’s hard to say if we will make it there soon enough to catch the last of the flood tide that ends tomorrow morning at 04:30 or if we will have to buck the strong ebb all the way once we round Montauk.
For now, we are enjoying what will likely be two days of near perfect sailing as we make our way the 350 miles from Hampton home.
My plan is to take Pandora directly to Deep River, up the CT River and have her hauled for at least 6 weeks so I’ll have time to get some projects completed after a long winter of wear and tear and some 4,000 mile of sailing. I may do some short trips with Brenda over to Long Island and perhaps Newport with friends but that assumes that I get the guest bathroom remodeled. Not sure how that’s going to be finished as soon as I’d like as it’s nearly July and I haven’t done much in that department. Oh well, I’d better get cracking.
I guess that’s it for now. Sorry, not pictures as my SSB modem is just too slow to send large files over the SSB radio when I am outside of cell range. My routine is to send the text to Brenda who will post it.
Until Saturday…
We also passed a warship heading into the harbor. 
She was flanked with four patrol boats complete with blue flashing lights warning us to keep our distance, which we did.
I forgot to mention that when we arrived in Hampton I was greeted by a dead fridge and freezer. The pump that supplies cooling water to the compressor had failed and the unit had shut down. With the cabin all sealed up and in the 90s, the freezer and fridge soon were that hot too. With them all buttoned up things got nasty pretty fast and when I opened them up I was greeted by,… Well, let’s just say it was a seething mass of flying insects and maggots. Brenda would have just loved it. Sorry, no pictures. I do have my limits. “Thank goodness Bob.”
Yes, yes, I know…. She’s so cute that it hurts. “Bob, Bob, did you take that photo?” I did, thank you.
So, the hoses ran down into the cabin and into the fuel tanks via an access port. A powerful pump sucked fuel out of the tank, through a filer and squirted it back into the tank, stirring up any water and sediment that might have collected. What the heck, go ahead and trash the cabin. Everybody else does.
So, some 6+ hours later, three clean fuel tanks. Wasn’t that easy?
Huge long fuel dock. 
This morning a lovely crabbing boat. I think that these are called Chesapeake Deadrise boats. And Hampton University in the background.
Along my walk earlier today I spied this little cottage with great gardens. Clearly, the owner doesn’t spend much time on the water given the extensive gardens that surely need daily attention. 
So, here we are spending yet another lovely day in Hampton. Perhaps we can carve out some time to visit the local brew pub on the waterfront. Yes, I suppose we will as the marina runs a water taxi over to the the town pier where the pub is located. Besides, it would almost be sinful not to spread some “green” around town before we depart. Right?
No, I am saving myself for desert. 
In the evenings, at the docks, there are amazing parties and I wrote this 
Pandora’s still in Hampton and I’ll be bringing her north at he end of the month and then she will be hauled for 6-8 weeks. I plan on splashing her again in time to go to Newport for classic J yacht racing in late August. I understand that there will be 7 racing, the largest number ever to share a course. Amazingly, these boats continue to be built and from original plans. The most recent one, Svea, launched in the Netherlands, built from plans that were drawn up back in the 30s but never built.
No mistaking that this is a game that can only be played by the “big boys” who can afford “big toys”. A picture of power in every way. 
It will be fun to see her and the others in Newport later this summer. Until then I am focused on more humble but perhaps no less important vessels closer to home.
Block himself looking like he’s ready for anything. Love the PFD. Ok, perhaps It’s a collar. Doesn’t it look like a PFD? Actually, I’m thinking that he didn’t wear one, a PFD that is. However, he did get around plenty. 
Now that the Onrust, the replica of Block’s ship, is in Essex, I couldn’t resist visiting her and taking some detail shots of her construction. She’s small but tough as nails. Probably much like Adrian in spite of that wacky collar. However, I wore a powder blue tux with dark blue piping and a ruffled shirt to Brenda’s and my junior prom so who am I to judge?
There are a number of wonderful details that have been incorporated into her construction. Love the lion on the stem. And, the lacing on the bowsprit is just so. 
Lots of detail went into this little ship. Her forestay with her jib. A little different than Pandora’s rod rigging and stainless turnbuckles. 
And speaking of lines, you can never have enough lines. There’s just something about coiled lines…
Nice attention to detail on the mast. No power winches on Onrust.
How about the detail at the top of the mast? I expect that there is a story about that too. 
The mast has a tabernacle so it can be easily laid down on deck. That’s a nice feature for ease of work aloft. No crane needed.
All of the hardware was forged by hand, including this really nice hook holding the running backstay. Sort of a “olden day” soft shackle, I guess. You know, the type made out of Spectra?
The deck area is set up for lots of folks on board. The original Onrust sailed with a crew of dozens I expect which would have been pretty crowded, open decks or not. Consider that the original vessel was built in the dead of winter in only four months. Those guys were really tough anyway so close quarters were just the way it was. 
She’s well armed with some really nice bronze cannons and they really work. I saw/heard one on my “voyage” aboard from Old Saybrook.
They too have some nice little details. I’m sure that there is a story here too. A monkey and anchors?
Lot’s to see down below. Certain accommodations have been made in deference to her current use and certainly for the USCG. Back in Block’s day, this would have been cargo only. I guess that Block’s crew would have slept on top of well, whatever was in the hold. 
Lots of nice detail work like this well fashioned knee holding up the deck.
Great hand forged hardware. 
The wood is well finished but not fussy. 
Nice hinge, complete with cut nails. Hand forged nails? Probably. 
A view of the forepeak. 
And a view aft. In case the crew get “soft” no cushions on the bunks. 
Don’t know what this is at the base of the bulkhead aft of the mast but it’s really, really sturdy. I’d have thought that it was for a centerboard. However, she has lee boards. 
And, here’s one of them. From a construction standpoint, it’s a lot easier to make these than a centerboard. A boat with lee boards can also ground out easily with no damage. 
I guess a logical place to finish up is of a shot of her crew. “Aargg. Hoist the main brace! And be quick about it, you scallywags!” 
All, and all, the Onrust is a charming, dare I say cute, little ship? However, like her “father” Adrien Block, she’s tough, that’s for sure. I can’t wait to go out on her again. Yes, I guess you actually can be cute and tough.
Her stern is impressive, perhaps I might call it “cute”. Love the “colors”. How about that braiding on the flag staff?
I wonder if Adriaen carved the stem as intricately as this?
She has a nice deck layout. Oddly, photos down below are not allowed. Not sure why as she’s wonderfully finished below decks. 
As is my custom, I made sure that I was one of the first to arrive when the boat was nearly empty. However, by the time we left, following speeches by various dignitaries, she had a full compliment of “crew”. The guy with the blue cap and pink pants is Tom Wilcox, president of the CT River Museum BOD, welcoming everyone. Tom used to be the director of the 
I particularly enjoyed the remarks by the “official” CT State Historian, Walter Woodward. I asked him to share his remarks with me and I’ll put them up in a future post. I also asked if he gives talks and he does. Sounds like someone that I could tap for future Seven Seas Cruising Association events. There’s just no end to interesting people that you can meet with a little effort. 
Of course, no cruise is complete without refreshments. Fortunately, we didn’t heel enough to upset the vittles. 
They did put up the sail for a bit but the wind was light. However, it was a lovely sight. 
As we worked our way up the river, we were passed by this lovely traditional power yacht Deliverance. She was built in Maine and launched in 2011. What a looker. It looks like her designer, drew inspiration from classic sardine carriers. 
She’s a boat that would make a nice home away from home. 
Charming wheelhouse. 
I mention the sardine carrier connection as the yard where she was built, D.N. 
Anyway, back to Onrust. I was thrilled to be able to take the helm for much of the run to the CRM the captain was with crew getting ready to dock and only looked to me a “few” times to be sure that I was paying attention. My attire wasn’t particularly traditional though. Perhaps if I hang around enough I’ll be able to get one of the “official” caps. 
We approached the landing at the museum and were greeted by cheers from the guests.
And we were serenaded by a fife and drum corp, the 
Later they posed for photos aboard the Onrust. What a sight. “Land ho!” No, make that “Essex ho!” “All hands to battle stations. Run out the cannons!”
So, there she is, on the docks at the CT River Museum where she will be stationed for the summer, giving tours of the local waterfront. I think she’s found a good home and am really impressed with Chris Dobbs, the director of CRM for making the connections that brought such a wonderful vessel to Essex.
The Onrust, Essex and The 
Of course, even if our boats and lives have become more complicated, there’s always Pandora’s mascot Louis to remind us of simpler times as he gazes out at the world as it rushes by aboard Pandora. 
I’m sure, that mice, rats, moles and even Presidents alike will agree that indeed, “there is nothing — absolutely nothing — half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats.”