Monthly Archives: May 2012

Wednesday, May 30, 0230

It’s been a long process of hand steering all the way up the coast once the autopilot stopped working on Monday.  As I mentioned in my last post, the boat has  a strong pull to port caused by prop wash as it hits the rudder.  The pressure on the rudder increases dramatically as the RPM is increased so that means that the faster we push, the tougher the steering becomes.  If we are running at 8.5 kts and there is moderate wave action, it takes all my strength to push the wheel to compensate for the pull to the left.  One way that I have been able to adjust though, is to lock the wheel in place for a few moments when it is on course so that I can give myself a rest.  As I mentioned, we have broken up the day into watches with 4 hour watches beginning at 19:00 and continuing until 07:00 when we switch to 6 hour watches.  During watches, Bob and I have determined that steering for 45 min and switching off at that point works best.

The helm problem would be much less if we were sailing but the winds have not been favorable for us to keep up the needed speed.  Actually, there has been wind but the need to keep the engine running, combined with the helm issues, make it prudent not to put out any sail and rely on the motor alone.  This is because the wind has been nearly dead astern, and with the difficulty in steering a jibe would be a real probability.

We should be rounding Sandy Hook late morning and begin our run up the East River, a trip that I really enjoy.

Oh yea, we passed three sea turtles on Tuesday that were sunning themselves on the surface.  They were huge, perhaps nearly 4′ in diameter.  Quite a sight.  Unfortunately, they were too far away, and we were going to fast, for me to get a photo.

Looking forward to being home again.  I understand that the honey-do list is long.

Self Steering by Self aboard “The Abby”

It’s 0500 on Tuesday, and we are motoring along at 8kts on fairly flat water about 50 miles off of the mouth of the Chesapeake Bay.  As of 0100 the repaired autopilot was no longer repaired.  We feared that there may be problems again as we were not able to replace a deformed bushing along with the damaged gear in the unit.  We had hoped that the repair would hold out until Norwalk, but no such luck.  Normally, hand steering isn’t that big a deal but The Abby has a nasty pull to port under power.  As I understand it, the prop wash hits the rudder in an unbalanced way and kicks the rudder hard to the left.  I am unaware of a fix for this except to just “horse” the wheel to one side when under power.  If we had a favorable wind we could sail and the helm wouldn’t be a particularly big deal.  Alas, that’s not the way it is when you are making passage.

Fortunately, with calm seas, hand steering is easier than it would have been under more aggressive conditions.  Besides, we will be home on Wednesday so that means only about 18 hours more at the helm.  For now we seem to be doing well with half hour stints at the wheel and the plan is to adjust the watches so that we are on for 4 hours and off for 4.  We’ll see how that goes.

Passing Cape Hatteras

Memorial Day, May 28, 2012, 1700

We are about 15 km off of Cape Hatteras and are motor sailing.  It’s plenty hot down below and in spite of my best efforts, I was unable to get any sleep this afternoon.  It’s very sunny and warm but the breeze, about 10-15, while not sturdy enough to make good time under sail alone, is refreshing.  A while ago we were visited by a pod of dolphins who stayed with us for about half an hour, swimming and jumping along side and on both sides of the bow.  I have seen plenty in the past but this is the first time that I have seen them so close, darting up within a foot of the boat, jumping out of the water and darting off.
It was clear that they were playing and at eight plus knots, they were really making time.  I was able to shoot some great videos of them.  After about 15 minutes of hand held video I rigged up the attachment to the boat hook so that I could get a better angle for the shot.  Unfortunately, they lost interest and left us.  I am hopeful that they will be back and I’m ready to get some really fun shots.

Bob and I will be on watch at 19:00 until 23:00 and dinner, pork tenderloin with a fresh mango and marmalade glaze will be a nice way to welcome the evening.   Oh yeah, there will be mashed potatoes too.

As it’s the hottest down below that it has been so far, I am really hoping that the temperature will go down with the sun.  I made a special point of bringing a watch cap to ward off the chill.  Hmm…

The wild horses, houses and a cemetary in Beaufort. Only the horses are wild though.

Yes, it’s Sunday and we are still waiting on Beryl to move away so we can head north.  While the winds are down, the seas are still pretty rough off of Hatteras and our Monday morning departure is still looking good.  While winds are low enough for us to leave late today instead of in the morning, it won’t make a big difference in our arrival date so Monday morning it is and giving the waves a bit more time to calm down will make for a much more enjoyable ride up the coast.

Another unique feature , and source of local pride, of Beaufort is the wild horses that live on the barrier island having arrived with the early Spanish explorers some 400 years ago.  What a contrast it is to sit on board The Abby and look the short distance over the harbor to see horses grazing at the water’s edge. Yesterday afternoon I went for a walk and enjoyed passing through the well kept neighborhoods and shady streets.   As I have mentioned before, the homes are well maintained, and there’s not a whiff of vinyl siding or “mini mansion stucco” to be found.  If the condition of the homes is any indication, it’s also a great place to be a painter, or sell white paint.  Every home is white.  Perhaps it’s to stay cool.   And, lots of nice front porches, a throwback to the days before air conditioning.Some of the gardens are really nice.  What a great spot to relax and read the paper on a Sunday morning, or later in the day, with an “adult beverage”.It was also fun to wander among the headstones in this cemetery.  Many of the graves were from the civil war and the live oaks were clearly not planted yesterday.  Lots of stories here, I am sure. Very peaceful.

Nice views in every direction.

Plenty or churches to choose from but our crew decided to attend a service on the water, at the town dock, provided by the Intracoastal Waterfolk Ministry who had dropped off a flier at our boat on Saturday.  It was a nice service with about 30 in attendance in a nice shady spot on the water.  Seeing the wild horses in the distance certainly set the tone.  During one of the hymns there was a bird chirping in the tree over my head that was even more enthusiastic than the congregation.

The service was at the public landing which was very nice with a big sign welcoming all to visit Beaufort.

I have really enjoyed our visit here and look forward to visiting with Brenda in November on our way south.  However, it’s my hope that our visit won’t be sandwiched between two tropical storms or worse.   We will also likely be anchored out in the harbor with the little people.  Not a bad place to be.  Besides, we will be a lot closer to the wild horses of Beaufort.

 

Beryl Barrelling down on Beautiful Beaufort

Here we sit in beautiful Beaufort, NC, for a few more days courtesy of the second tropical storm of the season, Beryl.  Who would have guessed that we would have delays caused by two, count em, two (so far) named storms as we head north from Nassau?  I am not going home until I have enjoyed all of the named storms of this season.

However, I can imagine worse places to spend Memorial Day weekend than a place crammed with cruisers from all over.  I met a nice couple yesterday who live aboard a Hallberg Rassy 35 and have been cruising for the last two years.   As most insurance companies require their insured to be north of Cape Hatteras by June 1st,  the result is  there is a constant stream of cruisers coming through Beaufort as they move northward.

One particular draw of Beaufort is the fact that the Intra Coastal Waterway here offers a safe way to avoid going outside around Hatteras, sometimes called “the graveyard of the Atlantic”.  Boats with a mast height less than 65′  can travel inside and avoid bad weather off shore.   In our case, Beryl (remember her?) is out there with strong NE winds, the very direction you want to avoid in the north flowing Gulf Stream which kick up some really awful conditions.  As The Abby’s mast is plenty taller than 65′, we have no choice but to wait until things calm down and go outside.

So, what’s a sailor to do when stuck in a beautiful resort town on Memorial Day weekend?  EAT!!!

Fortunately, at least one of our crew, Mark, is a very good cook and with our able help, we are not starving.  Just take a look at this spread from lunch the other day, salad Nicoise and a nice rose´.Our chef is the grey haired gentleman on the left.  No wait, we are all grey.  Well, he is still the one on the left.  Me? I am an awesome dish washer.  It’s that fastidious thing and it does come in handy from time to time.

As far as our leaving here, that’s up to Beryl with a dispensation from Neptune.  More to come on that.  Monday?  we will just have to see.

Picturebook Beaufort NC. That’s “Bowfort, not Beaufort”.

The plan for bringing The Abby back from Nassau called for a stop in Beaufort, NC, for a crew rest and to get fuel.  My parents have always said that I have always been blessed with a guardian angel, and she was on full alert yesterday when the auto pilot failed just as we entered Beaufort Inlet, just south of the notorious Cape Hatteras.   The Abby is a big boat, and the idea of hand steering her 24/7 wasn’t appealing at all.

I have to give The Abby’s owner Bob, credit for being a very handy guy, and he had the problem diagnosed within an hour of docking and he was on the phone with the manufacturer getting a replacement part, a stripped gear that engages the auto pilot.   I am always amazed by how durable equipment on boats is these days.  Bob’s autopilot is 10 years old and this is the first major failure.  Impressive and good news as Pandora has the same autopilot.  I think that I’ll be checking the same gear for wear myself soon.   As is often the case, the part was not expensive but when you combine that with overnight delivery and and extra night of dockage, that was one expensive little gear.  Not a bad place to have gear problems at all.   This “surprise” will keep us here for an extra day, which is fine with me. Besides, they say that cruising is just boat repair in exotic places.   Works for me.

The Abby is looking good in her slip.  Most of the boats here are on delivery up the coast from warmer climes.   I am told that the mix will shift next weekend when the locals will be out in force.   I have to say that Beaufort  (and I am told that it’s pronounced “Bowfort”, and not “Byuufort”), which is in SC, is a lovely small city.  In fact, Beaufort was named “the coolest small town in America”,  a distinction that they are very proud of.  Their official site certainly makes me want to visit.   No wait, I am here…

Beaufort will be an early stop for me and Brenda as we make our way south in the fall and I am really looking forward to sharing this spot with Brenda.   The town dock is right in the center of town which is lined with wonderfully maintained historic homes.

This beautiful spot is a great example of homes along Main Street.  It’s not hard to imagine a mint julep hear on a cool evening.   Very nice.  Shrimping is a big thing here (actually, I had some of the local critters for dinner last night) and here’s a few of the fleet at the dock.  Reminds me of Forest Gump.The town planners must have been really anal as it’s hard to imagine a street that’s straighter. 

Even the boardwalk is perfect and there’s someone who waters all of these pots each day I would guess.  There have to at least 100 of these in a row. 

The local fauna is not afraid to hang out on the dock to snag a snack.

Off to better hunting grounds I guess.

There’s  a very nice maritime museum, The Beaufort Maritime Museum,  a very nice museum that gives a good history of the area.  It seems that Blackbeard’s ship, Queen Anne’s Revenge, sank here, and there are plenty of artifacts on display from this ongoing archeological dig.   Is it a “dig” when it’s underwater?  Hmm…  Lot’s of pirate references here and you know that the locals take pirates seriously when you see a bumper sticker that says “Arrg”.   Is that how you spell it?  Perhaps it doesn’t matter as I doubt that Blackbeard was a great speller.  Actually, our captain says that it’s spelled ARG which stands for “alcohol research group”.  I’m voting for that.Some nice models on display too.  What post is complete without a sunset shot?   You can’t beat sunsets, or sunrises for that matter, when you are at sea.

Oh yea, one of our crew, Mark is a fabulous cook and judging by the massive pile of ingredients that just showed up for dinner we are in for a treat.  Can you say Brontosaurus burger?  Where’s my statin?

 

 

 

An interesting night aboard The Abby:

It’s 10:30 Wednesday and we are nearly to Beaufort NC having left Nassau on Sunday morning.  The weather has been changeable and has given us everything from NE winds in the wake of tropical storm Alberto to strong SW winds pushing us along.  One thing for sure, we had plenty of variety with what Mother Nature tossed our way.

Beyond hours of crashing into big waves earlier in the week, the most interesting weather came to us earlier today when we tangled with a line of very strong thunder storms that hit us at about 05:00 today.

Bob, the owner of The Abby, is big on weather information and subscribed to no less than three services for our trip up the coast.  One service that came in particularly handy last night was XM Satellite Weather. With a special receiver aboard Bob is able to see, in real time, all sorts of weather information including how a storm cell was tracking, and of particular interest last night, lightning strikes.  And, there were plenty to count as they piled up on the screen, one after another, until the marched like little (ok, perhaps not that little) soldiers within each of the multiple cells displayed on the screen.  We have all enjoyed looking at the weather channel on TV and then going outside to see what’s happening.  However, doing that on dry land is a poor substitute for seeing it in real time when you are on a “small” boat 100 miles from shore on a pitch dark night.  A unique experience, to be sure.

However, what struck me most about all of this was the fact that we had a very good idea of what we were facing and when it would hit.  It was sort of like a complex video game with vectors, lots of bright colors and endless options.  However, to look at the screen and then outside provided a bit more reality than most might have bargained for in the pitch dark of night.

As it became clear that we were going to tangle with this weather, like it or not, Bob decided to begin preparations in advance of the storm’s arrival to get the boat ready.

We took in the sails and got everything buttoned down as you would expect.  However, given the fact that The Abby, like so many boats these days, is tremendously dependent on sensitive electronics so securing these, as best we could, was a high priority.

By the time the storm finally hit, we had turned off everything, engine, all electronics, everything.  With everything secured, The Abby was just jogging along with Bob at the helm while the wind and rain whipped at us.  Actually, Bob got the bulk of the whipping as he was at the helm steering and getting soaked.  All and all, the whole process including preparation and the storm itself only took about 90 minutes and we were certainly happy when it was over and that the boat didn’t get hit by lightening.   Getting struck by lightening on the water is not particularly life threatening, but it’s hell on electronics.

To see dozens of flashes light up the horizon really made it clear to me that when it’s all said and done, nature is really in charge.  We can get more information, yes, but when you are out in it, you are out in it and there is no getting around that.

All the while, our ship mates, Bill and Mark were off watch and snug in their bunks snoozing away.  Well, perhaps not snoozing but they didn’t seem too concerned.

Oh, did I mention that the temperature, following the storm, finally dropped to a tolerable level in the high 70s?   Yes, it’s very hot in the Gulf Stream and as the storm passed we were getting out into cooler waters.   I guess that that was the greatest relief of all.

And another thing, I just realized that I had not reactivated the SPOT unit this morning.  It only tracks for 24 hours and needs to be reset.  When you read this, look at the “Where’s Pandora” page and you will see when I reset it.

That’s all for now.  More to come from Beaufort.   But, before another post, a nice cold beer, or two when we tie up at the dock.

An Interesting Night aboard “The Abby”

It’s 10:30 Wednesday morning, and we are heading toward Beaufort, NC, having left Nassau on Sunday morning.  The weather has been changeable and has given us everything from NE winds in the wake of tropical storm Alberto to strong SW winds pushing us along.  One thing for sure, we had plenty of variety with what Mother Nature tossed our way.

Beyond hours of crashing into big waves earlier in the week, the most interesting weather came to us last night when we tangled with a line of very strong thunder storms that were traveling perpendicular to our course finally hitting us at about 0500 this morning.

Bob, the owner of The Abby, is big on weather information and subscribes to no less than three services for our trip up the coast.  One service that came in particularly handy last night was XM Satellite Weather. With a special receiver aboard, Bob is able to see, in real time, all sorts of weather information, including how a storm cell was tracking, and of particular interest last night, lightning strikes.  And there were plenty to count as they piled up on the screen, one after another, marching like little (ok, perhaps not that little) soldiers within each of the multiple cells displayed on the screen.  We have all enjoyed looking at the weather channel on TV and then going outside to see what’s happening.  However, doing that on dry land is a poor substitute for seeing it in real time when you are on a “small” boat 100 miles from shore on a pitch dark night.  A unique experience, to be sure.

What struck me most about all of this was the fact that we had a very good idea of what we were facing and when it would hit.  It was sort of like a complex video game with vectors, lots of bright colors and endless options.  To look at the screen, and then outside in the cockpit, provided a bit more reality than most might want in the pitch dark of night.

As it became clear that we were going to tangle with the whole mess, like it or not, Bob decided to begin preparations about an hour in advance of the storm’s arrival to get the boat ready for the inevitable.

We took in the sails and got everything buttoned down as you would expect.  And given the fact that The Abby, like so many boats these days, is tremendously dependant on sensitive electronics, securing these, as best we could, was a high priority.

By the time the storm finally hit, we had turned off everything– engine, all electronics., everything.  The Abby was just jogging along at a few knots with Bob at the helm, while the wind and rain whipped at us.  Actually, Bob got the bulk of the whipping as he was at the helm getting soaked.  All and all, the whole process, including preparation and the storm itself, only took about 90 minutes and we were certainly happy when it was over and that the boat didn’t get hit by lightening.   Getting struck by lightening on the water is not particularly life threatening, but it’s hell on electronics.

To see dozens of flashes light up the horizon really made it clear to me that when all is said and done, nature is really in charge.  We can get more information, yes, but when you are out in it, you are out in it and there is no getting around that.

All the while, our ship mates, Bill and Mark, were off watch and snug in their bunks snoozing away.  Well, perhaps not snoozing but they didn’t seem too concerned.

Oh, did I mention that the temperature, following the storm, finally dropped to a tolerable level in the high 70s?   Yes, it’s very hot in the Gulf Stream and as the storm passed we were getting out into cooler waters.   I guess that that was the greatest relief of all.

And another thing, I just realized that I had not reactivated the SPOT unit this morning.  It only tracks for 24 hours and needs to be reset.  When you read this, look at the “Where’s Pandora” page and you will see when I reset it.

That’s all for now.  More to come from Beaufort.   But, before another post, a nice cold beer (or two) when we tie up at the dock.

90 Miles Southeast of Charleston aboard “The Abby”

We departed on Sunday at 07:30 from Nassau Bahamas, headed for Beaufort, NC, a trip that is expected to last until Wednesday afternoon.  The plan will be for us to stay there for the night, take on fuel and then head up the coast around Cape Hatteras for the two day trip up through New York and on to Norwalk Yacht Club.

Our plan originally had us leaving Nassau on Friday or Saturday but the weather wasn’t cooperative with a small tropical storm off of the Florida coast that would have had us motoring into strong NE winds, something that you don’t want to do in the Gulf Stream.

The Gulf Stream moves along in a northerly direction at up to 5 knots as it is squeezed between the Florida coast and the shallow waters of the Bahamas banks and if the wind opposes the direction of the current, as is the case with a northeast wind, the seas can get steep and nasty.

To be certain that we had the best weather information available, Bob, the owner of The Abby, subscribes to the weather service provided by Chris Parker, who advises cruisers on what to expect from weather along their route.  By checking in with Chris on a daily basis, Bob was able to determine that we would be better off leaving on Sunday to avoid the unfavorable winds.

As he reviewed the forecast for the next few days, Chris Parker predicted that we will have to motor for several days, and then he feels we might very well end up with some favorable winds for sailing as the week goes on.  As I write this we are about 90 miles east of Savanna and the winds have not yet filled in from a direction that is favorable for sailing.

Prior to leaving Nassau we took on about 95 gallons of diesel to top off Bob’s 200 gallon capacity so that we would have an adequate capacity to get us to the states.  Bob’s boat is very well thought out off-shore yacht with large capacity of both water and fuel and we can  easilymotor much of the 750 or so miles to our first stop.

After several days of uncharacteristically rainy weather in Nassau, we are now out in our second picture perfect day with clear blue sky and deep blue tropical waters.  The seas coming out of the Bahamas were very flat, much like you’d expect on Long Island Sound, but as we entered the Gulf stream and began to head north, we found ourselves motoring into a really nasty mess that had waves breaking over the bow every 8 seconds or so.  I took some videos of this on Monday and it will be interesting to see how they look when I download them at home.   What we were experiencing was the result of a current running north with opposing winds.  Beyond that, the waves were kicked up by the tropical storm churning up the waters off of Florida, just ahead of our path.

Now, as I write this on Tuesday the waves have calmed down quite a bit and it’s an easy if hot ride north.

It’s been a long time since I have been this far from land but after our many trips to Maine over the years, it doesn’t look much different from what I have experienced except the fact that I am aware of the fact that the water depth is close to 1,000 feet.

Also worth noting is that there are plenty of flying fish that launch themselves from our path as we head along and skip from wave top to wave top for 100 yards or more.  They are well adapted to getting away from those who would like to make a meal of them.

Finally, this note comes to you via a SSB radio transmission sent to Brenda as an e-mail.  What a great service.   You can see where we are right now by clicking on the “where’s Pandora” button above this post.

I am pretty sticky in the 80+ heat and humidity but I am looking forward to that “just showered feeling” as I am about to get a much needed rinse.

More to come on Wednesday.

Sights, if not sounds, in Nassau

I had a great day yesterday wandering around Nassau from our marina to tourist area where the cruise ships dock as well as an area where the locals hang out to play checkers and dominoes.    Nassau is an area of great contrast from the run down to the glitzy.  First, this is a much better shot of The Abby.  What a nice boat.  Very powerful machine.

As I walked the two or so miles into town I passed Potters Cove where locals have put up shacks to serve food and sell conch.  The area, locals and their wares are very colorful.

The small shacks are lined up cheek to jowl accompanied by the din of small generators humming away to keep the lights on.  Quite a sight and plenty aromatic.

They aren’t too concerned about putting fenders out to keep their boats from bumping into each other.
A favorite pastime is dominoes which is more of a contact sport given the way that they slap the tiles down. They are very enthusiastic.
Conch are everywhere, stacked up on counters waiting to be carved up into dinner.

Some vendors clean up the empty ones and they are very nice. I need to get one of these to take home.  They are bigger than they look, with some measuring a foot across.

Some of the “items” for sale are not quite as appetizing though, like these land crabs. Imagine that they are nearly a foot across. They would be a great prop for an Indiana Jones movie.  Imagine yourself in a cave, in the dark, claws clicking away… You get the picture.

I tried hard to imagine what sort of recipe these would go into.   Cook’s Illustrated, help!!!For dinner we had grouper and picked it up at a road side stand where local fisherman displayed their wares.  For an extra $5 they will clean if for you.  It was a bit unsettling to watch how aggressively they went at the fish with a machete.  Scales  flying everywhere accompanied by a constant dialogue from his buddies dissecting his skills.  I was impressed.

A bit further down where the cruise ships dock, the environment is much different with high end fashion the norm. No dried fish here.

Well, that was yesterday and now it’s Thursday morning and raining steadily.  I am told that this is not normal weather at all according to Bob, the owner of The Abbey.  In the 8 seasons that they have spent here they have had more rain this winter than the total of their last seven years visiting the Bahamas.

With regards to our departure, we had expected to leave here on Friday or Saturday but now its looking more like Sunday. as there is a low and unsettled weather that just won’t budge.   For the short term, I just hope that the rain stops so we can do a bit more exploring later today.