Ken and I ended up our cruise with two days in Newport secure on a mooring at the New York Yacht Club. This club, one of the most prestigious in the world, does not offer reciprocity with any but a very small number of yacht clubs, two I think.
For this reason, visiting the club requires you to do so in the company of a member. Ken is a member so off we went to Newport.
The run from Cuttyhunk to Newport began very sportily, with east winds behind us beginning with a squall in the upper 20s. As we rounded the point to head west to Newport we were treated to a rainbow. Perhaps not the most perfect one but a rainbow, never the less.
We sailed the entire way to the mouth of Narraganset bay when the wind shifted to the north and on the nose as we made our way the last few miles to Newport harbor.
The Castle Hill Light, still maintained by the USCG was completed in 1890. It was the first sight that greeted us as we headed up the Bay.
It is always a treat to see the grand hotels that overlook the Bay.
With all the investments going on with wind power, this brand new service ship is evidence of all the jobs that this emerging sector is bringing to the area. And, in the background a house perched on a rock that’s been there since the early 1900s. It’s called “Clingstone” as someone once remarked that it was “a peach of a house”. This “cottage” is 10,000 square feet with 23 rooms. Check out this link to learn more about this remarkable home.
I love visiting Newport for all the wonderful boats and all it’s history. For decades Newport was the playground of the ultra rich in the days before income tax. Today, well, it’s still for the very well heeled. And, the center of all that is, arguably, Harbor Court, the Newport “clubhouse” for the New York Yacht Club, once the summer home of the Brown family, founders of Brown University.
The home was purchased in the 80s by the club and renovated to serve members as it does today.
The club is very focused on all things sailing with a huge and active member racing fleet. This video is highlights of the 2022 Rolex race week. It gives a good feel for the true international reach of the club.The number of “tenders” is evidence of how much goes on during the summer.
In the evenings members line up on the bluff overlooking the bay for an “adult beverage”. A spectacular “bespoke” view, just like the clothing that they sport when they are “out to be seen”. It’s quite a spot.
Here, a view of the back of the clubhouse from the formal gardens.
Imagine having a pond of lotus behind your home. It’s always hard for me to understand how something that looks so tropical is hardy in our winters.
Each of these flowers is the size of a grapefruit.
And beautiful architecture isn’t limited to the huge mansions. As you walk on side streets one home is more beautiful than the next.
And what New England city is complete without a church with a white steeple.
Or a home with a turret that evokes the style of a lighthouse? I’d be curious of who owns this place but can’t find any reference.
Touristy of not, Ken and I enjoyed a lovely lunch overlooking the harbor in Bannister’s wharf, downtown. It was a busy place, even on a weekday.
And off to the side, Rumrunner II, built back in 1929 for some NJ mobsters to smuggle, well rum, among other illicit liquors. Now she is an elegant day boat that gives tours of the harbor. Your group is large? No problem, she can manage a group of dozens for a tour of the harbor and bay.
Tennis anyone? If you follow the sport I am sure that you have visited the Tennis Hall of Fame. It’s an elegant place and a throwback to earlier times.
Makes me want a mint julip, whatever that is. Nice gardens.
Well, it’s nice to be home again but I have to admit that I am already thinking about when we can get back aboard Pandora. Still lots to do to prepare for her run to Antigua in November.
Not a lot of time left as I have a reservation at a marina in Hampton in late September for a month before our departure.
For now, all I can say is that visiting Newport and the NYYC was a fine ending to a wonderful week afloat with my old friend, and we are all getting old it seems, Ken.
If you squinted really hard you probably figured it out. Cuttyhunk…
To the west, quite a show. This sort of display makes one feel insignificant. A good reminder for so many that think that they are very significant. However, I expect that most of them would miss the symbolism anyway. You know the type…
Once snuggly anchored, we had a lovely evening and the stars were amazing. Alas, no shooting stars spotted in spite of the meteor shower that was predicted. Probably because I didn’t stay up much past “cruisers midnight”, That’s 9:00 for you landlubbers.
This morning we walked up the road to the highest point on the island. The road is impressive, the best on the island. It was built by someone years ago to provide easy access to a planned mansion that was never built. The road remains and was recently repaved.
The view of the harbor where Pandora sits, snug on a mooring.
Just to prove that she’s there. A closeup.
A short time later this charming Marshall Catboat showed up. I mention this as Brenda used to come here on our own boat of the same design. I can’t believe that we came all this way with two little guys on such a small boat.
It was on one of those trips, and it was a rainy and nasty trip, that I left the three of them once we were anchored, all in various states of distress and suffering from severe cabin fever, and rowed up to a nearby 38′ yawl and said to the owner “would you be interested in selling your boat?” The answer, a curt “no” but I gave him my number anyway. The following spring she was ours. It proves that everything is for sale.
The same picnic table view today A bit sad, I’ll admit.
It was nice to show Ken around the island. We walked a long way to the western end of the island. There are many well groomed, well mostly well groomed trails to choose from. Interestingly, there are a number of gun emplacements and viewing platforms from WWII when they were used to keep an eye out for U Boats .
In the distance is where the Cuttyhunk Oyster Company does their magic. In the distance you can also see the Bartholomew Gosnold monument, marking the first European settlement on the island, perhaps in all of New England. On that exposed point, the settlers didn’t stay long.
If you looked very closely, you could see the floats for the cages that hold oysters. This shows it better. All those floats.
While we were there, one of the locals was harvesting some of their stock. In the evenings, about in time for “sundowners” they tour the harbor selling their oysters, shucked to order. Can you say “fresh”? We are planning to check some out this evening. I’ll bet they will be good with a G&T.
The island is dotted with lovely ponds.
I particularly liked this one. A well planted garden in itself.
Of course, what New England shoreside is complete without beach roses? Perhaps the last of the summer blooms.
One thing that has changed after all these years is the addition of a solar farm. This is one of 4 rows of panels in undulating rows, tucked in a low spot so as not to spoil the view. 
In spite of this impressive setup, their diesel generators were still humming away near the village. I guess all those cappuccino makers draw a lot of power.
And don’t forget the sort-of new Pandora but with the same timeless view from her bow.
So, here I am, Back in Cuttyhunk and a bittersweet cruise down memory lane.
It was the first time I have left the River, and only the second time I’ve been off of the mooring since bringing Pandora back from the Caribbean in May.
The audience enjoyed the “show” and seemed to like the back and forth questions and shared experiences.
The next day a number of boats headed up to Hamburg Cove for a raftup. Most cruisers never raft, or tie up together, as most harbors are just not settled enough so this was a novel experience. When we were young and new to boating, Brenda and I rafted with friends nearly every weekend. Because of the great width of the two cats, the raft was nearly 100′ from end to end and required two moorings to hold the group.
Smile for the camera!
So, back to Ken and our first stop on our week out.
And speaking of well preserved “old stuff”, and I don’t just mean women of a certain age. The homes are amazing. I’ll bet that a paintjob on this home cost more than our car, no make that all the cars we have ever owned, combined.
In spite of all this, I do enjoy visiting here if for no other reason than people watching, each more put together than the last.
However, he’s not alone with boat that is a “severe” design. If Darth Vador went boat shopping, this one would surely catch his attention.
Well, at least before he looked 100′ back and saw another trailing in it’s wake.
Or, perhaps if he wanted to change his image. Perhaps white…
Don’t like edgy design? Perhaps this classic John Alden schooner.
Of this lovely Friendship sloop, the brand of that name made in New Zealand.
Goldfinch is aptly named as you’d have to have a few gold coins to purchase such a lovely “gentleman’s daysailor.
And speaking of coin. This chart from the Wall Street Journal today.
I’m thinkin that a measly $5M wouldn’t even keep someone out of the red for more than a week in these parts. Here the .1% is more like .001% and that might be understating things a lot.
And speaking of things spiraling out of control, how about this staircase in the Sag Harbor Whaling museum?
Ok, I mentioned Salty Dawg earlier in this post and one of the primary reasons that I decided to head over to Sag this weekend is because there is a benefit going on co-sponsored by the Antigua Tourist Bureau and I thought that it would be good to meet up with some of the folks visiting that I know from my time on the Island.
Including one from the Department of Tourism.
Well, I guess that about covers it for now as I have to get ready and put on my Antigua Yacht Club shirt and head to the fun ashore.
I have also spent a lot of time helping Brenda with some of her weaving projects and doing chores to help her prepare for some teaching in the fall.
If it looks complicated, that’s because it is. Over 1000 threads and that’s why Brenda was watching me to be certain that I didn’t mess things up. And, with that in mind, she wasn’t always smiling.
And, of course, working hard to be sure that there is a way for her to bring meaningful projects aboard Pandora for the winter.
The new panels just came today and when installed will be oriented fore and aft. The total width of the three panels will be about 4″ wider and the length, just under 6″ longer. With the new panels the array is huge relative to the space available when compared to what was possible just a few years ago. And with the overall increase in capacity, plus the output of the wind generator, it’s an amazing upgrade.