Well, it’s finally here. My departure from Trinidad is in a few days and as I prepare for departure, Pandora is crawling with workers. Just today, a welder, canvas guy, electricians and Amos of Perfect Finish who’s group has done a wonderful job of painting Pandora’s hull.
Yes, there was lot of work done last summer on Pandora but after spending the season aboard, it seemed like a good idea to head back to Trinidad and have some last minute work done to get her in as perfect shape as possible before departing on my run to Horta.
The work that Amos and his gang did aboard Pandora last summer was first rate but with any job that big (check out older posts for a blow by blow as they replaced much of the side decks) I had a few items that needed work and decided to bring her back. After all that, it somehow seemed like a good idea to get the hull painted. I do like a shiny hull.
So now, Pandora is in spectacular shape having been worked over from very bottom of the keel, the hull and up to the top of the hard dodger and that really doesn’t begin to cover all that was done.
And now, she’s really shiny and with brand new graphics. I know that soon someone will come up to visit and their dink will chip the name. It happens every year. I guess that’s the risk of having friends. I’ll take it.
And to keep from getting scratches on her new shiny hull, I sewed soft covers on my new huge fenders. Figuring out how to do the pleats was not all that hard but I did have to do a bit of head scratching to be sure that I had it right before cutting the fabric. All’s well that ends well in spite of the fact that it took 3 yards of fabric that was 72″ wide to get the job done.
If you saw my last post, you know that these fenders are a lot BIGGER than they look.
After more than a decade of use, our anchor was looking a bit worse for wear so I had it tended to as well. The shank was a little bent and it was not even a tiny bit shiny. Now it is, thanks to the welder/metal worker, Mitchell. He does great work.
My crew Ken, who I have been sailing with off and on for decades, will be arriving in two days and will help me move Pandora up the islands to St Maarten where I will join the Homeward Bound Salty Dawg Rally.
Once Ken and I depart Trinidad, our first landfall will be Bequia, an overnight, where we will connect with Bill and Maureen aboard Kalunamoo, our oldest cruising buddies. We plan to stop a number of places as we make our run north to St Maarten where I will connect with the Homeward Bound Salty Dawg Rally, heading to Bermuda to prepare for my departure with the Azores rally, departing on or about June 1st.
Well, it’s 6:30pm and the electrician is still aboard. I have had great luck with all of the vendors except this one. He’s a very nice guy and gets a lot done when he is here but it seems that he’s always running out for something and stays away for hours at a time.All and all, I have had terrific value and great work here in Trinidad and of the “army” that has worked on Pandora, I have been overwhelmingly happy with the outcome.
I just can’t wait till everyone goes home and I can begin to put the boat back together again.
Soon, out to dinner with a fellow Salty Dawg cruising couple.
Pandora splashes at 10:00 tomorrow morning and it will be good to have her ready to go. In particular, having a fridge and freezer working will be awesome.
It’s been six weeks since I left Pandora to fly home and now I’m back. Sadly, it will be another six weeks till I see Brenda again when we meet up in Horta.
Lots still to do but that’s about it for now. Time for dinner.
It’s hard to believe that I will be heading back to Trinidad and Pandora in two weeks. The month that I have been home has gone buy in a blur. I have been working hard to get things in shape at home as once I leave I will not be back until sometime in the first half of August.
Over the years we have developed extensive gardens and I have no idea how I am going to keep them looking nice when we are away for much of the summer. Oh well. While we see ruins in Europe our gardens will become just that…
When I took Pandora back to Trinidad the plan was to do a bit of “mopping up” on a number of small things that needed attention from her refit last summer. However, as is so often the case with me and boats, it morphed into a much larger plan including painting her hull.
The hull, last painted in 2019 was getting a bit dull in spite of yearly touchups and buffing. A big motivator for “do it now” was that with Pandora in the Med, where I am told, work is a LOT more expensive and I doubt that I would be able to justify the expense, dull or not.
Not to put too fine a point on this, but the paintjob in the US, even though it was six years ago, cost more than twice what I am paying in Trinidad. And to add insult to injury, the US job ended up with a crooked boot top which is being straightened out.
If you are thinking of having major work done on your boat I encourage you to consider a run south to get it done. Even if you are a racer and not a cruiser, there are plenty of major races over the winter in the Caribbean. So, consider running your boat to Antigua in the fall and after a few races, run the boat to Trinidad for work. After all that is completed, run her back north in the spring for a summer of cruising. Just Sayin…
From Trinidad, beginning on May 2nd, I head north to St Maarten where I will meet up with Salty Dawg boats to lead a rally heading to Bermuda and then onto the Azores. The rally from St Maarten will also include a number of other Dawg boats participating in the “Homeward Bound Rally” to points north.
And this brings me to the subject of this post.
Some 2,000 miles and around two weeks later, after leaving Bermuda, we plan to arrive in Horta, the most common place to make landfall in the Azores and, I am told, one of the most visited harbors in the world with between 1,000 and1,500 visiting every year. The small marina is in the distance on the right. Anchoring is on the far end with the commercial port in the foreground.
Nearly 900 miles from mainland Europe, this stunning archipelago is a common stopping place for boats heading to northern Europe or the Mediterranean. Most that make landfall tend to stay for a short time and continue on but we plan to spend a month taking in the beauty before I head to Gibraltar and on to Spain, where Pandora will be hauled for the season.
The map shows Horta, our first port of call, and the other islands.
The weather in the Azores by mid June will be mild with typical daytime highs in the mid 70s, dropping to the mid 60s at night. After 9 seasons in the Caribbean, the cooler temperatures will be a delight, especially for Brenda. However, not a lot of swimming will be in our future, as my skin has become very thin from the mid 80s water we are used to.
We are very excited to spend time in the Azores, and many who have visited there say that is perhaps the most beautiful place that they have ever been.
This short video reviews some of the highlights of Horta. The first segment, a few minutes long focuses on the harbor and it looks very charming. Interestingly, I have heard that the cost of slips in the marina is quite low, about half of what you’d expect to pay for a mooring in New England. I like that.
We do not yet know where we will go while we are in the Azores and which parts of our explorations will be by ferry or aboard Pandora verses moving around with Pandora.
At the end of our visit, Brenda’s flight on July 16th will be from Sao Miguel, the capital of the Azores and the largest island. My crew for the run to Spain will meet me there. This short video certainly paints a picture of a lovely place to visit. I can’t wait.
The last month has been a whirlwind of details as I sort through every imaginable detail to prepare for the run. Visiting a travel clinic to get a variety of prescriptions for whatever might come up on the passage and a medical kit that is the size of a piece of carry on luggage plus. I never imagined that I would have a skin stapler on board, that’s for sure. Happily, one of my crew has extensive medical training but let’s hope that keeping all this stuff on board is akin to carrying an umbrella on a sunny day.
One of the iconic scenes from Horta is yachts tying up on the breakwater, where arriving crew paint a spot to memorialize their arrival.
And, in order to be certain that Pandora’s new shiny paint will not be scratched, how about some jumbo fenders? Yes, I will be sewing some soft covers.
Big enough? I sure hope so.
“So, Bob, how will you pump them up without busting a gut?” Thanks for asking. I’ll use this nifty battery powered pump. They go from flat to fully inflated in less than one minute. And, it can be reversed to deflate them for storage.
With all that is going on I have to admit that I am having difficulty in keeping everything straight. All the details are a bit overwhelming.
And, to make matters worse, I am heading to the dentist for a root canal right before I depart. The only thing that would be more fun than that would be to have the problem crop up mid ocean. Well, this one, at least, should be under control by then.
Fingers crossed on that front and sorry, no pictures of dental work, just work on getting Pandora ready for her big adventure.
My dad, now gone for over ten years, would approve of our plans, not the root canal, as he once quipped, “Bob, wouldn’t it be great to take Pandora through the Straights of Gibralter?” Indeed dad, it would.
However, I have to get there first. And, first, the Azores. I’m all about that…
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Holly S**t, it’s been a whirlwind since Brenda headed home from Antigua on March 1st.
In the course of only a few weeks, I helped out on the Caribbean 600 race, greeting boats at the dock upon their return, enjoyed some of the events associated with the SuperYacht Regatta and then took Pandora to Trinidad where she is undergoing a few more tweaks to be sure that she is in top shape to run to the Mediterranean.
Now I am back home in CT until I head back to Trinidad in late April.
On March 10th I headed south from Antigua, bound for Trinidad, some 400 miles distant, to address a few new items that I need completed as well as some “mop up” items from when she was there for her big refit over the summer, a few things that weren’t completed because I needed to be in Antigua by November 10th, done or not and just had to leave…
One major problem with having on a schedule is that sometimes the weather isn’t cooperative and our run south to Trinidad was true to form, in this case, with not enough wind. As a result, a lot of motoring. Sadly, being able to delay a few days would have made for a much more fun passage. When on a tight timeframe it can often be frustrating.
On my way north to Antigua, also on a schedule, we motored a lot as well. Normally, Brenda and I don’t move until conditions are favorable but when there is a deadline, you just gotta go.
When I leave Trinidad in early May, it is a very long way, almost 500 miles, to St Maarten, where I will join in a feeder rally, departing on May 18th, bound for Bermuda, to begin my run to Horta in the Azores. From Bermuda we plan to depart for Horta on or or about June 1st, when I will lead the 9 boats that are participating in the Salty Dawg Azores Rally.
One in Horta Brenda will join me for a month of cruising the Azores before she flies to Scotland and will head, again with crew, for Spain.
My run from Trinidad to Horta will be my longest since I retired in 2012. For the last dozen years, Brenda and I have been spending most winters afloat, beginning with a run down the Intra Costal Waterway, ICW, in 2012, as well as four seasons in the Bahamas, two months cruising Cuba’s south coast and most recently, 8-9 seasons cruising the eastern Caribbean.
This screenshot from my Garmin InReach shows Pandora’s tracks every season from the beginning of the pandemic until this current season. That’s a lot of back and forth. The run to the west from the US Virgins to FL, via the Old Bahama Channel, was our track back to the US when crew was not available.
With bad weather on that run and a very reluctant crew (Brenda), it was surely our most miserable passage ever.
When I return to Pandora in late April, I will begin what will be a marathon run to Spain were I hope to arrive by early August.
The total distance from Trinidad to Almaria Spain, where I will leave Pandora from August until the following spring, is nearly 4,500 miles. That’s a long way and will involve crew on every leg, nearly 10 individuals, my most number of crew in one year, ever.
It is unquestionably a very long way and I will admit that I am struggling to know that when I leave Brenda on April 27th to head to Trinidad, I won’t see her again until mid June. Not to put too fine a point on this but I will be at sea for both our 48th wedding anniversary and my 70th birthday. Not great.
The run…
After last summer I decided that I needed a break from long passages and opted to leave Pandora in Trinidad for some work after a decade of long passages back and forth from New England. It is ironic that after only a break for one season from the long runs, I am now planning on my longest run ever but as they say, “you gotta do what you gotta do”. So much for a shorter commute…
However, after so many years in the Caribbean and going to the same islands, again and again, it’s time for a change of scenery so off we go…
A particularly big negative is that this will take us away from our home for much of this summer, our favorite time of the year to be here. And, that also means that we will be here in the winter, the last place I want to be when it’s freezing.
And speaking of summer, a few days ago we went to a local nursery to get some spring flowers with the full knowledge that after they fade, we won’t be able to plant until sometime in August. Not great but after this season, we will be home for most of the summer following April and May in the Med and a return in the early fall for two more months.
I will surely miss seeing friends and going to our favorite harbors in the Caribbean, especially Antigua but four months a year cruising the Mediterranean with so much history, won’t be so bad. Right?
With crew settled for each leg of the run and Pandora getting last minute items dealt with, I am busy ordering stuff for the passage including spare pumps, medical kits and whatever I can think of to allow us to keep safe and moving if we find ourselves in a fix 1,000 miles from anything.
Whatever spars and parts that I have on board it is likely that something that I don’t have a spare for will break. As they say “everything on a boat is broken. You just don’t know it yet.” Sad but true…
And we won’t even talk about the possibility of an orca biting off my rudder along the way. A few weeks ago I actually ran into a guy on the beach in Falmouth Antigua who had his rudder bitten off near Gibraltar. I suppose when you think about the number of boats sailing around, getting your rudder “removed” isn’t all that likely but it is still common enough to be a real concern.
There is actually a website dedicated to tracking orca sightings and attacks to help boats transiting the area steer clear of harm, or at least try to steer clear of the pods. I have no idea of what the percentage of boats traveling through the area are hit but I’d hate to be one. Check out this site dedicated to sightings and “incidents”.
There are a lot of interactions with orcas in the course of a year. The blue are “we saw”. The red are “they bit”. Looks like a lot to me…
There are many more attacks in the springtime farther south, near Gibraltar. That is why it is not recommended to keep the boat for the winter in southern Portugal with the plan of moving into the Med in early spring as that is when the orcas are most active in the area.
That’s a bummer as I would prefer to keep Pandora in that area for next winter as it is reasonably priced and not all that far from the Azores. But with all the attacks, I will be bypassing that area and heading a few hundred miles farther and into the Med to Almeria, Spain.
Attacks April to June of last year. Lots of them and all over the place.
In summer, July and August when I will be passing the area west of Gibraltar there were not as many interactions but it wasn’t nothing. I am told that they migrate north as the season progresses, following the tuna, their primary food source.
For sure, the risk of being hit by an orca is a concern and I am hopeful that I can avoid the worse of it by consulting the “incident map” and see where the orcas area and going elsewhere.
After transiting the “orca gauntlet”, and making my way into the Med, I’ll head for Almira. Along the way I may very well stop in Gibraltar and Morocco to see some sights with my crew if they can take the time.
And, those plans do depend on my not having to stop along the way to have my rudder repaired.
Gibralter to Almeria.
So, where in the world is Pandora…Going?
From Trinidad to St Maarten, Bermuda, Horta, a month cruising the Azores with Brenda and on to Almeria. After that, in 2026, who knows.
I am looking forward to seeing sights like this castle in Almeria.
I am not looking forward to sights like this…
Orcas aside, here is to an uneventful voyage.
Wish me luck.
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I am in Trinidad and plan on heading home tomorrow for about 6 weeks before returning to bring Pandora north in preparation for the rally to the Azores.
Brenda headed home on March 1st to attend to a number of art shows that she is involved in and I stuck around to be part of the Antigua Super Yacht Regatta. This regatta is designed to attract the really big sailing yachts, some over 200′ long that do not normally race and to do so in a “gentleman sort of way” over a four day series.
To see these huge yachts move around the course, piloted by professional captains and very exprienced crew from around the world is an amazing sight. On the final day or racing I was lucky to be invited out on a photo boat that had been chartered by two professional photographers.
We followed the fleet around the course and to see these monsters pass us by was breathtaking.
The Caribbean 600 is over and the 65+ competitors have returned to the dock. It was a tough race with lots of wind and rough seas so there were quite a few that had to retire without finishing the race. More than normal, I was told.
600 miles in strong trade winds make for a wet race as they wound around 10 islands giving a mix of conditions from ghosting along in the wind shadow of Guadeloupe to beating into 30kts of trades. Not my choice, that’s for sure. A tough course.
A friend and I walked up high on the cliffs overlooking the starting line. Off in the distance was the race committee and lots of others, vying for a good look down the starting line.
And down below us some going for a swim in the surf.
While off in the distance the yachts were getting ready for the start, practicing their tacks and jibes.
As the various classes started, with the smallest ones going first followed by larger boats. Even the smallest weren’t small but compared to the super-maxi…
Rounding the starting mark.
It turned out that we were in the perfect place to observe as each boat came very close to where we were and tacked.
And there was a lot of tacking to gain an advantage, sometimes coming so close to each other that it looked like they would collide.
To see these huge yachts coming at us was an impressive sight. This is Lucky that ultimately won “line honors” being the fastest boat over the course.
This boat, is owned by Roy Disney and is campaigned all over the world.
The boats that are the most sophisticated have a “canting keel” that allows them to move the keel from side to side, up to about 45 degrees. This helps keep the boat more upright in strong wind. When the keel is moved over that much the boat needs to have a long dagger board put down to keep the boat from sliding sideways. This shows the severe angle of the keel.
No shortage of crew on these giants. Every ounce of “rail meat” is needed to keep the boat as level as possible.
To see these powerful machines beating to weather was a sight.
And, to make things even more exciting, there was a helicopter buzzing all around, often hovering very close to the water and banking over us.
More often than not, they passed very close and below us. Not common to see the top of a chopper up close.
One thing that is unique about this race is that every boat, regardless of first, last or retired is greeted at the dock when they arrive. I thought that it would be fun to volunteer and agreed to be on call on Wednesday morning, from 02:00 to 06:00, when the first boats were likely to show up.
All of this was organized by Helen, relentlessly cheerful and yet runs a very tight ship. And, here with her infectious smile and enthusiasm made it all so much fun. In honor of all the volunteers they had two parties for us. it was great fun.
My “crew” of greeters. Note at least one beer at 04:00. Oh, to be young…
The first to be greeted were a few boats that had to retire as they had broken stuff. Torn sails, a track ripped off of the mast, a broken rudder, just to name a few. Even though the arrived dejected from a race that did not turn out as they had hoped, we cheered them with enthusiasm.
We had a banner that they unrolled for the photo and we delivered beer for all on board which was a big hit, as you can imagine.
As my shift was the very first one, less than 48 hours after the start, only the fastest boats were likely to be completing the race by then.
That turned out to be quite something as Lucky, a boat that used to be called Rambler 88, was the first boat to finish, earning “line honors”.
I have to say that being there as they returned to the dock around 05:00 was quite a thrill. As you can imagine, being the first to complete the race was also a reason for press to show up in force so there was quite a crowd on hand.
Check out this video chronicling the win by Lucky. It’s a short piece but full of action. She is a huge white boat. Really impressive.
As she came around the corner from behind a huge motor yacht, it was impressive to see them back into the dock in the dark.
After a hard run, skillfully guided to the dock.
Quite a crowd had been forming to greet them.
Clearly, the Lucky campaign is well run. Even before we had a chance to give them the banner, dozens of hot pizzas arrived. I subsequently learned that a local restaurant opened hours early to prepare food for the crew.
And, there was additional food on the dock in coolers and boxes that was hoisted aboard as the celebration began.
Interestingly, they have a canting keel that can be moved from one side of the boat to the other to provide more righting moment and keep the boat more level, although they still sail on their ear. As the draft with the keel down is something like 20′, they have to cant the keel about 20 degrees to reduce draft in the harbor. However, this means that the boat will heel alarmingly so they hoist three huge water bags on the opposite side of the boat to compensate for the weight of the keel and keep her fairly level at the dock.
This is one sophisticated boat and I can only imagine what it costs to move her around the world for many the many competitions that they participate in.
Only a few weeks ago they received line honors in the RORC transatlantic race from the Canaries islands to Grenada and setting a new record run for the course. This 10 minute wrap-up on the race is worth watching.
All and all, it was a wonderful experience but I can say with confidence, that a 600 mile run, island to island, is not for me. I guess that I don’t like being salty all that much.
However, to volunteer and greet them as they arrived. Great fun.
It’s Sunday February 23rd and those tiny sailboats that have been hanging around Falmouth began their around the world race. First stop Panama and yes, in keeping with the news from Washington about the canal, they will get very special treatment crossing Panama.
Actually, given how small these boats are, less than 20′ long, they will simply be pulled out of the water and put on a truck that will bring them over the mountains where they will be launched into the Pacific Ocean.
And, speaking of the Panama Canal, I am trying to imagine how these boats would handle the line handlers necessary for navigating the canal. Not a lot of room on board, that’s for sure.
All of these boats, here in Antigua, completed a qualifying passage, most leaving from Logos Portugal. Everyone made it here safely.
Perhaps a good place to begin is with a short video of highlights of the qualifying voyage “race” to Antigua.
The start was at the mouth of Falmouth Harbor and began with a parade of all participants out to the starting line. I ran, err walked, up the Goat Trail to the lookout to see the procession.
Even big boats look tiny from up high. But these, well teeny tiny. Not a lot larger than the dinks following them to the start.
By way of contrast, some of the Caribbean 600 race boats were out practicing. Their crew involves more individuals than the entire fleet of minis, by about double.
And, surely this spinnaker on the 100’+ Leopard surely cost more than the entire budget of the mini fleet.
With about 40 minutes to start, I scrambled, and nearly ran, down the trail, jumped into my dink and motored out to the starting line to watch the participants jockey for position.
There was a lot of action and loads of spectator boats trying to stay out of the way. I expect that this is about as close to another participant any of these boats is going to be until they are on the dock in Panama.
Spectator boats are always packed with crew and this one a very capable offshore boat itself.
A few minutes before the 5 minute gun.
Almost to the line.
And they’re off…
So funny to see the jockeying to be the first over the line with so many miles to go.
Heading off toward the horizon.
Almost gone… Next stop, Panama and the end of leg one.
I am really looking forward to following the fleet for the next year. The other night there was a meet and greet at the Sailing Academy where many of the skippers shared their stories and why they were embarking on this remarkable journey.
Some may say that to take on the ocean in such a small boat is foolhardy but having spent time understanding the design and meeting the skippers, many of whom built their own boats, it seems to me that while there is surely risk, these boats and hopefully the skippers that sail them are plenty tough for the trip.
My plan is to follow the fleet and report on what I learn and expect that there will be a continual flow of information and photos in the coming months so stand by.
Of course, you too can follow the boats using the “yellow brick” tracking app. Install it where you get your tablet or phone apps. After you download the app select the “mini-globe race” and select leg one to see where the boats are.
God speed to them all.
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I mentioned that a number of really tiny sailboats were arriving in Antigua over the last week or so and marveled at how mini they really are.
And, they seem particularly mini when the harbor is so full of maxi and super and maximum maxi.
These boats, and there are 18 of them here now, have just finished a qualifying run to Antigua from Logos in Southern Portugal, in order to participate in the Mini Globe round-the-world race that starts from Antigua next week.
I am told that the race will begin off of Pigeon Beach which is right near Pandora.
Each of these boats are of the exact same design and yesterday I stopped over at the Sailing Academy in Falmouth, where they are all docked, to have a look at the fleet.
They are set up to be water tight. A good idea given the fact that they are likely to be banged around quite a bit as they make their way around the world. I’m imaging how it would feel to be inverted… Not great.
Even the companionway down below is a waterproof hatch so nothing will cause them to down-flood if they roll, and given how tiny these boats are, it seems to me that rolling might be likely.
I am sure that they will run into some pretty sporty conditions. I found this photo. And the waves aren’t even that big. Big wave, little boat.
It seems that Niels Kamphuis (#163 Biggest Monkey) met up mid ocean 1500 miles from Antigua with the World’s Youghest Row support team and photographed him. They were in 4-5m swells and 25-30 knt tradewinds. Neils was surfing the long smooth swells at times hitting 16 knots…
With my own trans-Atlantic run to the Azores coming up, I continue to think about the threat of an orca biting off my rudder. These minis have a rudder as well as two dagger-boards on the stern, I guess for stability. I wonder if the “eyes” on these are to deter orcas or at least make them think twice about taking a chomp.
And, speaking of visibility, some of them have plexiglass domes on the cabin top so they can peek out when things are unpleasant. Perhaps they can also keep an eye on orcas if the boat is upside down.
These boats are a “one design” and are all built from the exact same plans. Many of them are home built and all are made from plywood. My impression is that they are finished to a very high degree.
While the group in the race number under 20, more than 100 of these boats have been built, many from pre-cut kits.
Not a lot of room below. To see them up close makes them look even smaller.
But the route is anything but small.
I met one of the skippers/owner, a guy named Jakub, born in Poland but hailing from Ireland with his boat “BiBi of Cork”. I should have taken a photo of him, but I didn’t. This is his photo on the race website.
His boat, on the outside rafted up, #185.
This is a short video that describes these boats in some detail.
These minis are not the only ones preparing to race in Antigua as they prepare for their Monday start, bound for Panama. If you want to keep track of the boats once they leave on Monday February 24th, follow this link.
Monday is also the start for the RORC Caribbean 600 ocean race and it has attracted a big crowd of yachts that are anything but mini. Try super-maxi. And, to track them as well. This link will be live as of Monday too, I expect.
This is considered one of the toughest ocean races in the world. The course, 600 miles, winds itself around a number of islands and back to Antigua.
There are dozens of go fast machines leaving and returning to the harbor every day as they participate in tune-up races.
The boats and crew are maxi in every way.
Tall mast, really tall…
And, they seem even taller when you note the tiny crew member perched up high on the mast.
One after another, they come back after a day or racing, accompanied by their entourage. And, all their “stuff” is carted around the world in big 40′ shipping containers. This one has a small dink…
Others, three engine dinks… I guess that they ship those in a container too. And most if not all of the crew are professional. A campaign, racing around the world must cost millions.
Well, there you have it, racing all over the world, or around the world. I guess with the Mini class you can even do it with a modest budget.
Me, I’d rather sit at anchor and watch the “boys with their toys” pass me by.
I understand that both the Caribben 600 and the mini race both start here on Monday. The mini race just off of Pigeon beach, behind Pandora and the 600 outside of the harbor. I hope I can somehow see both.
The action will surely be great. See this video of last year’s Caribbean 600 race. Many of the same boats are here again.
It is quite a show.
So, how big is Pandora? That’s a question I get asked a lot.
Well, compared to Minis, she’s a maxi but to others a mini.
Mini perhaps but not all that mini but big enough for me.
I can’t believe that Brenda and I will have been in Antigua for a month and, as of yet, have not left the mooring. It’s Valentines day and we are still experiencing Christmas Winds.
What did we get for Valentines day? Wind, just wind. And food.
Don’t get me wrong, I really enjoy Antigua but to be here for this long without even turning on the engine, is not quite what we are used to. How many times can I motor to the marina and back in my dink?
At least the view is always wonderful at night, especially when a full moon is rising from the east.
We had thought about making a dash to Guadeloupe a few weeks ago when there was a two day lull in the wind, but those who did head south reported that it was “lumpy”, “sporty”, “challenging”. Whatever it was, had we left it would have been a CLM “career limiting move” for me with Brenda as we tried to claw our way back just a few weeks later as it’s still really breezy.
So, here we are, making the best we can although I will admit that I am going a bit stir crazy and have done more “busy work” to keep my self occupied than I normally do.
In addition to the many things, all small, that have been in my plate for the last month, I have enjoyed “yacht spotting” as Pandora’s mooring is directly adjacent to the main channel heading out, or into, Falmouth Harbor.
Because of the wind, there have been very few cruisers heading out but the big boats continue to come and go.
As it’s been so busy this season, with every slip in the marina fully occupied, there are always a number of really big boats anchored near the mouth of the harbor.
With the waves breaking over the reef at the entrance of Falmouth, large rollers are causing these huge yachts to rock from side to side, sometimes quite alarmingly.
One that seems to be pretty stable is Kaos, as huge as she is, is just over half the length the largest yacht in the world. Of course, that yacht is owned by someone from the middle east.
Many yachts are lit up brilliantly at night but none more dramatically than Kaos. Their bespoke launch is also a sight to behold at night, with lights under and above water. Sadly, I haven’t taken a photo.
Kaos is unique as she is classified as a ship as opposed to as a yacht. This is because she is in excess of 300 gross tons and therefore has to comply with a lot more rules, which is a very expensive proposition, I am told. However, he guest capacity is nearly double that of mere yachts, 31 guests, not counting crew.
As I mentioned in a prior post, Kaos is owned by Nancy Walton, heiress to the Walmart family fortune. Well, at least part of it. Enough, it seems.
At over 360′ long Kaos is huge, carries a compliment of 45 crew attending to a maximum of 31 guests. Imagine the complexity of such a vessel. And, at $300m an expensive one at that.
Well, is it sufficient to say that Antigua caters to the mega yacht crowd and Nancy and her “boat” are at the top of the pack.
Ok, enough about yachtspotting.
What about our plans this spring?
As I have mentioned in previous posts, I am leading the first ever Salty Dawg Rally to the Azores, scheduled to depart from Bermuda on or about June 1st. After the 2000 mile Atlantic crossing and arriving in Horta, Brenda will fly and meet me for a month of cruising the islands before she wings to Scotland for a few weeks of touring with an old friend. At that point, I will continue on to Spain, likely Almeria about 150 miles past Gibraltar, in Southern Spain.
Why Almeria? Well, there is a website/app Navily that combines Google Earth images of the coastline overlayed with anchorages and marinas for the entire Mediterranean, and other areas. A terrific feature of the program is that you can fill in the details of your boat and inquire about dockage at any particular marina with a few clicks. Using this service I methodically worked through just about all of the marinas between Gibraltar and as far north as Barcelona, literally dozens of marinas, asking about pricing for the 7 months that Pandora will be laid up from early August until the following spring.
Each of the symbols mean anchorages, marinas and other features that you can zoom in on. This is a Google shot of Almeria, well part of the city.
I heard back from nearly all of them and learned that pricing for storage, most commonly in-water, ranged from a low of about 4,000 euros to more than 8,000. I have also spoken to a number of cruisers with experience in this area and Almeria came up time and time again as a good place to store for the winter.
The marina, Puerto Deportivo Almerimar was on the low end of pricing and also offers both in-water storage and on-the-hard. With 7 months away and basically unsupervised, I am inclined to have Pandora hauled instead of worrying that something might happen with her so far away. And, with her floating (hopefully) for that long, I’d feel compelled to have someone keep an eye on her and that would surely add up to even more money over the many months.
The marina is positively huge with over 1,100 slips. They also have space on land if I choose that route. Note that the marina is protected from the Med Sea by a large breakwater. Given the relatively featureless coastline, without any natural inlets, the only option for marinas is to build one into the coastline and that’s what nearly all of them look like, large or small.
This photo gives a feel for just how many slips there are.
The marina is not directly in the city with the beautiful historical architecture as that one is twice the price. and it’s not worth the extra cost to be closer to the attractions. One option, when we are aboard, is to move to the more expensive marina in city center or rent a car.
Based on some of the videos that we have watched, there are lots of beautiful places to visit a short distance from the marina. This video gives a good feel for what’s in store, as near as I can figure.
Lots to look forward to but for now, here we are in very windy Antigua. Not a bad thing in late February when it’s snowy at home.
Better think about Valentine’s Day and sunny beaches.
It’s time to go for a swim and think about what is to come.
We have been in Falmouth Antigua for nearly a month and the winds have been pretty relentless.
Just about every day, and overnight too, we have short but intense rain showers. They arrive all of a sudden and depart just as fast, leaving a lovely rainbow, or two.
At daybreak the view is pretty nice too.
And at night.
Even the clouds look wonderful at night thanks to my “Night Site” photo capability on my phone.
Even though we have been sitting here, unmoved, for weeks now, the scenery changes with the hours. Huge yachts coming and going and a constant parade of tiny boats from the Yacht Club buzzing around the harbor
We have been enjoying an occasional Tot Club event and one that really stood out was aboard a megayacht. The yacht was out on the pier in Nelson’s Dockyard. Huge sailing yachts lined up like “mega sardines”.
The captain and first mate had joined the Tot Club the prior evening and invited all of us to visit for a cocktail party and Tot ceremony. Everyone huddled inside due to the, you guessed it, a brief rain shower.
The boat was huge, nearly 200′ long. Long expanse of teak up to the bow. We were told that forward, set into the deck, were compartments that open up to reveal a crane that launches 30′ tenders, his and hers. The level of sophistication of these yachts is amazing.
At the end of the night, everyone “walked the plank”, back to the dock.
Nice neighborhood. A massive open expanse of decking aft on this yacht.
Not all the yachts in the harbor are huge. With the strong wind there are foil sail boards. They zip along the surface at an alarming pace. Pretty amazing.
And some really tiny yachts showed up over the last few days. These boats, and two have come in already, are finishing up a qualifying passage from Logos Portugal to Antigua. Those that “qualify” can compete in The Mini Globe, 2025, round-the-world race beginning here.
The race, as crazy as it may seem, is for tiny, 19′ tiny,, single handed boats, doing a series of legs that takes them around the world, beginning and ending in Antigua. Well, at least they are going thru the Panama Canal, instead of around Cape Horn.
For the moment, I will just say that compared to the “world’s toughest row” that race with rowing boats from the Canaries to Antigua, seems like a “walk in the park”. Those rowboats are longer than these boats. Crazy. More to come as I learn more.
Imagine sailing a tiny homemade plywood boat, matching a design from 1955, around the world?
And it’s a very long way…
● Leg One, Antigua to Panama, 1300 miles. Truck across Panama, keels on, rigs o. (organizers will pre-book Trucking, but entrants are responsible for loading and transport costs). ● Leg Two, Panama to a ‘mystery island’ of entrant’s choice (8 day stop) then to Tahiti, total 5200 miles, 7 day pit stop, then to Tonga , 1500 miles, 8 day pit stop, then to Fiji, 500 miles. ● Leg Three, Fiji to Darwin 3000 miles, 8 day pit stop, then to Mauritius 4200, 10 day pit stop, then to Durban, 1500 miles, 14 days pit stop, then to Cape Town, 1000 miles, ( this can be anywhere or nowhere depending on the weather, but if a sailor sails direct to Cape Town and makes NO pit stops , no advantage is gained. ) ● Leg Four, Cape Town to St. Helena, 1800 miles, 8 days pit stop, then to Recife, 1800 miles. ● Leg Five, Recife to Antigua, 2500 miles. ● Total 23500 miles
And here we sit, with the wind howling while these intrepid sailors slog their way here, just to prove that they can.
With regards to going somewhere, with Brenda flying out on March 1st, we have to take a short term view of the weather and with no end in sight for the moment regarding the unusually strong “Christmas Winds”, late this year, we really can’t head south to Guadeloupe, where I had hoped to spend a week or two before coming back to Antigua later this month. As the winds are likely to be strong thru the end of the month, I couldn’t take the risk of heading south only to learn that getting back to Antigua would be a slog. I really don’t want Brenda’s last time aboard in the Caribbean this year to be unpleasant.
Several friends who ventured south over the last week reported that it was indeed, “salty” so our plan to stick close to home was a good one.
So, here we sit on our mooring.
The weather has been lovely with days in the mid 80s and nights in the 70s. Except for the passing shower, it’s been relentlessly sunny so between the wind and sun, the batteries have been up to snuff every day.
What will we do next? Who knows but it’s good to know that it’s not snowing here, unlike at home where there is the expectation of upwards of 6-8″ of snow.
Yup, all dressed up and nowhere to go. At least there is a happy hour to look forward to.
And, while we wait I can focus on finding a leak in our dink, fixing a leaky pump on the watermaker, cleaning the bottom for the second time, even if it didn’t need it, along with cutting off the engine lock that I lost the key for, picking up stuff for dinner, getting laundry done…
Oh yeah, and the occasional trip to the beach to languish in the gentle surf.
“Oh Bob, shut up, just shut up! It’s frigging snowing up here…”
Our son Christopher has often said that many boats look more like a sneaker than a boat, referring to many runabouts that we have seen over the years.
Recently, a superyacht Captain made a similar remark to me the other day when talking about many of the contemporary yachts that have launched over the last few years. In spite of the massive amount of money it takes to purchase and run one of these massive yachts, 100 will launch this year alone. That’s a lot of billionaires flexing their muscle and looking to make a statement.
Not unsurprisingly, he is skipper of a beautiful, and I’d say timeless, sailing yacht, one of the largest in the world. He’s been in the business for many years now and has captained both motor and sailing yachts all over the world.
His comment, aside from reminding me of Christopher’s comments, got me thinking about which designs will stand the test of time.
Over the last few years, it seems that many of the huge yachts, and they are getting bigger every year, are straying far from what had traditionally been seen as “classic”.
This one, dare I say, does look like a sneaker. Perhaps on the cutting edge of “different” I do wonder if this design will be considered “cutting edge” in a few years or just “out of fashion”. I guess that time will tell.
She is Sea Wolf X a new launch in 2024. Built in Italy, she was designed to be as fuel efficient as possible and her catamaran shape does save a lot of fuel relative to other similarly sized boats.
She is certainly a unique design and I wonder how she will wear in a decade or two.
The owner of Norn surely tossed out the norms when he commissioned his newest yacht a few years ago. In my opinion, she is impressive and in her own right will stand the test of time.
His last boat, Scat, looked similar and turned a lot of heads when she launched more than a dozen years ago. You can see the resemblance. I do think that these designs, in spite of looking so different than the typical white yacht, are unique in a good way.
Of course, what is now considered classic these days might have been considered groundbreaking when they hit the water so long ago.
For me, I tend to favor those that look what I would call “classic” with beautiful sweeping lines and stunning transoms.
One that comes to mind is Nahlin, which I have written about a number of times. This yacht was launched in 1930 and after nearly 100 years still turns heads wherever she goes. She is classic in every way and as long as she has an owner that can support her needs, I expect that 100 years from now she will still be considered beautiful.
She didn’t always look like she does now back before Dyson rescued her from oblivion.
She looks much the same now as she did when she was launched back in 1930. Of course, her steam engines have been replaced by modern diesels.
Nahlin has a lovely figurehead. The name Nahlin has native American roots, hence the figurehead.
Next to her is Sea Wolf, who just came in today. She was built in 1957 as a commercial ship and ultimately underwent a major refit in 2019 to change her into a proper yacht. To me, she has beautiful lines and clearly follows the idea that “form follows function”. This link takes you to a bit of background about the boat and owner. It’s unclear to me if the same owner has her now. Interestingly, he also founded a flight museum in Canada, Vintage wings of Canada, with an impressive collection. I guess he likes classic stuff of all types. Nice boat too.
Her engine compartment.
Under way. A beautiful go-anywhere yacht that has clearly been everywhere.
Another favorite is Talitha, built in 1930 looks a lot like Nahlin, but with two funnels. She has had a number of owners over the years but since the late 80s she has been owned by Getty family of Getty Images fame, now into her second generation with them. Her first owner was the head of the Packard motor car company and for a while she was owned by Woolworth department store family.
Crew tend to be shared between these classic yachts, with members serving on various boats over time. As Talitha pulled into the marina the other day I could see crew on other boats shouting welcomes to the crew of Talitha. I guess it’s like a reunion when they congregate in a harbor.
And speaking of reunions, the skipper of EOS arranged a fun run and dock party last week to raise money for two local charities, one, The National Sailing Academy of Antigua and the other, The International Yacht Restoration School , IYRS, out of Newport RI, that brings Antiguan youth to the US to be trained in Marine Systems so that they can return to Antigua to work on yachts.
I am particularly excited about the IYRS charity as I started a this program a few years ago with a friend, to bring youth from Antigua to Newport for a 6 month program in the Marine Trades to help feed the next generation of marine tradespeople in Antigua. We have our first graduate and another on the way to Newport in the spring. After three years of working on the program, it seems to be really taking off.
Our first IYRS graduate, Ishmael, on the right, with his mom and brother at the party. HIs brother is also going to join the program. As you can imagine, their Mom is very proud.
The evening, following a 4k fun run with perhaps 200 people, mostly crew from other yachts.
It was a very festive evening.
Captain Martin of Eos, asking everyone to donate.
And, giving out raffle prizes.
The biggest “kiddy pool” of beer I’ve ever seen.
Eos on the dock. She will surely stand the test of time as a beautiful yacht.
EOS towers over the dock. Note the figurehead. Diane, I believe.
And now, to the left Talitha.
This is just a few examples of beautiful yachts that have stood the test of time. There are many yachts whos designs test the limits of what should a yacht look like and I wonder how they will be viewed in a few decades.
Obsidian, is also a new build and quite arresting to look at. As she is so sleek looking, I expect that she will stand the test of time but I guess it’s still too early to tell as she is only two years old. One of the crew members told me that he unusual metallic paintjob is so difficult to patch, that if she is scratched she will have to be fully repainted.
Cutting edge yes. But a sleek look.
Not your “father’s yacht”. Interesting but does look a bit sneaker like.
Interestingly, in order to keep a yacht looking tip-top, it has to be completely painted every 4-5 years. With that in mind, the owner will only have to live with a scratch for a few years.
With a big yacht, and they are getting bigger every year, monthly expenses run upwards of $500,000. And that doesn’t even count new paintjobs to fix those scratches.
Well, I could go on and on about all the yachts in Antigua but one thing for sure is that this whole business of mega yacht ownership is growing every year and it’s hard to imagine how these harbors, already packed, will address the influx of new hardware.
Like the smaller cruising boats that we have, they don’t go away after a decade so the total number is growing every year and the harbors aren’t getting any bigger.
I guess I will have to just remain content with little old Pandora for the foreseeable future.
Not bad for an old girl. And, to my eye, she doesn’t look much like a sneaker.
It’s Sunday morning and we are back in Antigua, aboard Pandora, having arrived on Tuesday. Somehow the first few days were incredibly hectic but today seems a bit more relaxed.
Perhaps it’s the view from Pandora’s cockpit? Well, if you disregard the fact that it is quite windy.
This morning Brenda and I headed ashore for coffee at this lovely waterside café. I had learned about this place, tucked into the head of the harbor, from a friend and it was the first time that Brenda visited with me. Very charming.
The last week before departure from our “land home” was hectic in the extreme but now we are back in Antigua. Getting the house winterized and a last minute decision to have a heat pump installed with the hope of weaning us off of oil deliveries was probably a good example of us, no I should say me “biting off more than we could chew”. I am pretty good at that. Brenda just loves the way that I keep us busy in the extreme 🙁
Now all of that is behind me, at least the home things, but I seem to be plenty good at filling my days here as well. Cleaning the slime of 7 weeks off of the bottom of Pandora, and doing a number of small upgrades and fixes. Cruisers say that spending time aboard a small boat is “fixing boats in exotic places.” Yup. Others say that “everything on a boat is broken but you just don’t know it yet”. Seems that way to me.
However, some owners don’t have to worry about all that. Sure, their boats are being fixed in exotic places but not by them. They just write checks. Well, actually their “family office” writes checks. A good example is Jeff Bezos’s boat Koru, on the dock here in the harbor, is surely having stuff fixed. She’s the big black sailing yacht on the left with the three masts. At least for now, she is the largest sailing yacht in the world. I say “for now” as just about every year a new biggest one is launched. What’s the fun of being a babillionair if you don’t have the biggest yacht?
Of course, what is a photo of Jeff’s boat without a photo of Lauren, his girlfriend/fiancée and chopper pilot, decorating the bow. I wonder what the next owner, and I suppose that he will build a bigger one soon, will think about having Lauren leading the way…
And, what is a mega, mega yacht without a support boat that houses all his toys. They left the harbor yesterday, passing by Pandora. Perhaps they are heading to get stuff fixed. Probably but don’t worry, as both of his boats are less than a year old, and surely under warrantee.
And speaking of big boats, it is interesting how the yachting business has changed over the years as it relates to what was considered “mega”. To the right, Sir Richard Dyson’s 1930s yacht Nahlin, considered large at the time at nearly 300′. He had her fully restored from a sunken 1930s wreck for a reported $70M.
While she is about the same length as today’s mega-mega yachts, she’s peanuts in weight and cost when compared to the huge one to the left (below), Black Pearl, that cost nearly 3x as much. While Sir Richard’s yacht Nahlin isn’t available for charter, you can “rent” Black Pearl for $1,230,000 a week, plus expenses. Don’t despair if that sounds like a lot of money, you can always find some friends and split the cost ten ways. For five for couples it would only be a quarter mil for you and that special someone. Feel the itch? check out her specs here.
And if you are thinking “how can the charter cost be that much?” The estimated operating cost for a year for Black Pearl is upwards of $50,000,000 so they’d have to charter her full time for 10 months just to break even on the expenses and that doesn’t take into account the coat of the build. I doubt that they even come close but, “if you have to ask, you can’t afford it.” Of course…
To give you a feel for the differences between these two boats, while they are sort of the same length, Black Pearl is massive at 2,964 gross tons and Nahlin, a puny 1,356 gross tons. Do note that Nahlin is farther away in this photo but she’s much more svelte than Black Pearl in spite of her 300′ length. Of course they are both big compared to Pandora at a micro-puny 14 tons.
One thing that’s worth noting is that in spite of having “more money than God”, sometimes they can’t get a spot at the dock. I was told that all slips in Falmouth and English Harbor, when it comes to mega and mega, mega yachts, have been booked for months. Nahlin moved into a slip a few days ago and Black Pearl still sits out on anchor.
The yachts on the dock are jam packed like so many sardines, no make that whales.
And, in English harbor, which is loaded too, it’s hard to make out where one boat ends and the other begins.
I have written about many of these huge yachts in the past but a good roundup of some is in this recent post if you follow this link.
The upward trend in yacht size is pretty much universal in all size ranges but especially at the top mega-mega end of the spectrum. Even Pandora at 47′ is large compared to the average cruising boat back in the 80s when most were under 40′. Now Pandora is smallish compared to others. However, with the amount it costs to keep a boat in good shape going up every year, I am not sure that I’d want a bigger one. No, I take that back. If I “didn’t have to ask how much” I’d totally have a big one.
With the billionaire gang growing by leaps and bounds and surely headed for new highs in the US in particular over the next few years, the average size boat is bound to continue going up as there is no shortage of megagazillionairs that want to have the biggest and best.
Oh well, no mega or even micro-mega yacht charters in our future but one thing that I can cling to is that their view isn’t any better than from the cockpit of little old Pandora. Yesterday we spent the day opening and closing hatches as rain showers passed overhead. And each time, leaving behind a beautiful rainbow.
And, for those yachts, err boats, that don’t have a pastry chef on board, there is always Jean Marie, who delivers fresh pastries every morning in his dink for Isabella and Eric of La Brasserie.
Oh yeah, sometimes I do feel like it would be nice to have a bit more luxury aboard Pandora like AC perhaps when we are on the hook, but I have to remind myself that there are some hearty souls that, for reasons that elude me, row the entire way across the Atlantic to arrive here in Antigua.
One of the biggest races every winter is aptly called “The worlds toughest row”, leaving from the Canary Islands all the way to Antigua, a distance of 3,000 miles. The first team arrived here yesterday, after something like a month and a half of rowing offshore.
They were greeted by an enthusiastic crowd in Nelson’s Dockyard.
Later that evening another group of rowers, and I am unclear as to where they were from and which race they were a part of, arrived in Falmouth Harbor. Brenda and I happened to be heading back to Pandora when they approached out of the darkness.
And passed us as they reached the dock where a very enthusiastic crowd greeted them. It was a full boat and it was hard to imagine having enough food and water for such a large crew on a small boat. It reminds me of the Brenton Fisherman’s prayer, “O God, Thy seais sogreatand myboatis sosmall.”
I guess that applies to just about everyone that heads out to sea in a small boat, rowing, plain vanilla, mega or mega-mega yachts, but some boats are a lot bigger than others so I expect that they need a bit less of help from the Almighty. Well, at least until things go all to s**t and stuff breaks.
I’ll be thinking about that when I head east from Bermuda in June, bound for the Azores.
Until then, perhaps I will have a rum punch while enjoying the same view that the big guys have. However, I’ll be making the drink myself as Jeeves is nowhere to be found.
