When we were planning our first trip south of the BVIs a few years ago, we found it very difficult to get good information about the more southern areas of the Caribbean. Most of what I could find in the sailing magazines and online, was focused on the American and British Virgin Islands, so popular with the charter set on holiday. Chartering in those areas is fun but cruisers generally head further south. This lack of good information was a real problem for us, and finding information about the islands of Antigua and south, the area that had been described to me as “where the real Caribbean begins” was tough to find.
As I consider plans for spending next winter in the Caribbean, the 2019/20 season, I have been thinking about some of the favorite places that we have visited, those harbors and Islands that stood out in our travels, and thought it would be fun to share some thoughts about the spots we particularly enjoyed.
We visited many terrific islands and harbors in the last two years, so from time to time, I’ll be writing about the ones that we particularly enjoyed and share what makes them special to us.
When I make the run from the US, I generally plan on making landfall in Antigua and it is from there that we make our way south before heading north and back to the US.
As I asked around for advice on “favorite places” Bequia, in the Grenadines came up, over an over, as a must visit spot. And while going there is always fun, it was recommended that we head there for the Easter Regatta, three days or racing an special events. FYI, in 2019, the Bequia Regatta will take place from April 18th to the 22nd.
It’s a very popular event with locals and cruisers a like with visitors coming from all over to enjoy all that’s going on and for many, to participate in the races. Boats of all shapes and sizes join in the three days of racing and parties. Some came under their own power and some on the decks of inter-island freighters.
This regatta draws from nearby islands, including a number of Carriacou sloops, those beautiful traditional, beach built sloops like Exodus, the last boat of it’s type launched in 2013.
It’s quite a sight to see her racing around the course with her cousins.
Exodus was the subject of a full length movie about her building and the history of the design. Here’s a short trailer for the movie. Check it out. If that inspires you to watch the full movie, here you go. Get a glass of rum, sit down and enjoy the show. Others came from the US like this lovely schooner Heron. She summers in Maine, chartering out of Rockport. Brenda and I will be in Maine this summer and plan on spending time in Rockport ourselves. Perhaps we’ll see her. Her captain and owner also built her and he did a great job. Want to learn more about her? Follow this link to her home page. She’s really beautiful.
While Heron is a classic design, she’s only a few years old. Other classics participate in the regatta as well as other events in the Caribbean, such as the Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta, held in late April in Antigua. One particular beauty that was there last winter was Ma Jong, built in the 1950s. I found this particular shot of her on the Easter Regatta home page. She’s a beautiful and very powerful boat. Her home port is Vineyard Haven on Martha’s Vineyard where she was restored to her present glory. I wrote about her last winter.
There are some good sized one design fleets in the regatta, like these vintage J24 sloops. This colorful shot is also from the regatta site.
And, of course, there are the local Bequia sloops, built and raced on the island. You don’t have to be there during the regatta to enjoy the fun as they tack around the harbor. The local youth are out sailing these boats nearly every day, regatta or not. The youth clubhouse, oddly in a bar, is jammed with burgees brought by visitors over the years including this well used one from the Essex Yacht Club, my home club.
Along with boat building on the islands the history of fine craftsman goes way back including a tradition of model boats. These are fun to see and watch being built. I wrote about these models in this post last winter.
If you followed the link above, you’ll find this photo a bit repetitive as that post also included discussion about the new dink chaps we had built. Anyway, we had some great work done on the dink.
Pandora’s varnish below was freshened too.
There’s plenty to do ashore during the regatta including all manner of competitions. Everything from musical chairs on stage to threading the needle, yes threading sewing needles. Brenda competed and won, with a little help from a local and no doubt mortified, young man. They were both good sports.
Brenda’s favorite event was “crying for nothing” where contestants are judged on their ability to conjure tears and a sobbing cry on command. I believe that our two year old granddaughter Tori would do quite well in that event.
Checking into Bequia is easy if more expensive than the French islands. Just about all of the islands from St Vincent, south through the Grenadines, to just north of Grenada, are all part of the same jurisdiction.
There’s a very good public landing at the head of the harbor and it can be busy during the regatta. The harbor is large with many moorings but, even during the regatta, there’s plenty of space to anchor. Nobody seems concerned about dinks speeding around the harbor so even getting back to your boat if it’s far out in the harbor is a fast trip. The harbor is well protected from any surge except in the outermost area.
Everything about the harbor is colorful including the ferry boats from St Vincent.
With all manner of local boats pulled up on the beach.
We enjoy checking out local eateries and there are plenty to choose from, convenient from the walkway ringing the southern side of the harbor.
I have used this shot before. To me, it perfectly evokes the image from the much loved classic book, The Wind in the Willows, when Ratty famously says, “Believe me, my young friend, there is nothing – absolutely nothing – half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats.”
Well, there you have it, Bequia, one of our favorite harbors and the Easter Regatta, one of our favorite events. This a place that you should include on your itinerary if you’re headed to the Caribbean. You won’t be disappointed.
For more information on customs and immigration check out this official government link. Another good source of up to date information on clearing into the island and other useful information about visiting, check out Noonsite.com.
It’s worth nothing that while there is a problem with crime in nearby St Vincent, we found Bequia to be friendly and safe and didn’t hear of any particular problems from other cruisers. With regards to your dink, it’s recommended that you keep it locked up when ashore and out of the water and locked up at night. Good advice for just about any area in the Caribbean.
Now you can see why Bequia is one of Brenda’s and my favorite places. I’ll be writing about other favorites in the coming weeks and months, so stay tuned.
Oh yeah, if you’ve signed up to get notifications when I post and aren’t getting them, you’re not alone. I have had difficulty with that function, I think it was the Russians, but Chris’s girlfriend Melody fixed it over the holidays so if you’d like to get a “ping” when I post, and I hope you do, sign up on the home page and then you’ll know.
The Salty Dawg Sailing Association, a group that in only a few short years became the organizers of what is now the largest rally to the Caribbean from the US East Coast. SDSA, is dedicated to educating sailors and their crew to prepare for the rigors of offshore sailing and they do a wonderful job at it. It’s very exciting to be part of the nearly week long events in Hampton VA as skippers and crew from nearly 100 boats attend seminars, have parties and get ready to head south.
Just a bit farther up the river is Selden Creek, a really narrow and beautiful, cut off of the river. It can be tough to get over the bar at the entrance but once but once you are inside, it’s plenty deep and stunning. You can anchor fore and aft if you tie up to a spot on the bank. There’s an iron ring cemented into a cliff on the bank. This was our first Pandora, a SAGA 43 tied up there, way back in 2007.
As tempting as it may be to climb up the rock and jump into the water, don’t do it as it’s private property. Years ago, our son Rob broke the rules. Don’t tell anyone.
He and a friend jumped off of the “private” rock.
What goes up, must come down.
Essex Harbor is quite large and while there are lots of moorings for rent, there is also plenty of room to anchor on the far side of the river. This shot, from the air, is compliments of the CT River Museum.
It’s a beautiful harbor, especially in the early morning. Fresh water here too.
There’s plenty to do in Essex, after hours. A particularly popular spot is the bar in the Griswold Inn, known locally as simply, The Gris. It’s one of the oldest, or perhaps the oldest, pubs in the country, operating continuously since 1776.
My favorite event, held every Monday night at the Gris, is sea chanteys performed by the group the
And, let’s not forget the Essex Yacht Club, where the event will be held, with Pandora conveniently out in front in this shot.
The agenda is coming along nicely and will include a program on weather routing by
We’ll also have talks about cruising in Maine, the Bahamas and the Caribbean. All with a bent toward blue water sailing.
Well, there’s still more in the planning stages but George and I are really excited about how things shaping up so stay tuned to learn more.
I fell in love with the traditional boats of the area. Perhaps the most iconic boat design of the region is the Guide Boat, so named because it was used for hunting and fishing by “sports” who visited the region by train from NYC to “rusticate”, beginning in the years after the close of the Civil War. These boats were crewed by the builders themselves, who spent winters building the boats and summers taking visitors on guided hunting and fishing trips. Guide boats are known for being easy to row and for being able to carry a lot of gear and as they had to as often it was a hunter, guide and any game that they may have bagged.
I got the bug to have one of these beautiful boats but couldn’t afford to buy a “real” one. Instead, I found someone who was offering a “bare hull” in Kevlar which I finished with walnut decks and cane seats. I even carved out oars to pretty exact specs. This is one sweet boat to row and very light.
The hull and fitting design were taken off of the lines of a particular boat “Ghost”, built by H.D Grant. The original boat is now in the collection of the Adirondack Museum, renamed the
The plans even specify details down to the oarlocks which I was able to purchase from a foundry that had duplicated the design to be true to the original.
This design of boats has been remarkably popular for over 100 years and there are still boats being constructed using the exact same techniques and materials. These boats are very tough to make as the materials are impossibly thin to keep the weight of the boats to a minimum given the need to portage, or hand carry, from one lake to the next.
There were many hotels dotting the lakes that featured guideboats for hire, complete with guides.
We had many wonderful times heading out on picnics on the lake and nearby St Regis Lake. Wow, what a dish. Nice boat too.
St Regis Lake was and is still today, home to many of the “Great Camps” where wealthy city dwellers would spend time “rusticating” in somewhat less than rustic conditions.
While there was eventually there was a service road to the estate, during Post’s ownership all materials and visitors arrived by water, landing at this magnificent boathouse. The largest building for the estate, above the boathouse, featured what was, at the time, the largest piece of plate glass in the area, offering a beautiful view of the lake.
Following her death in 1973, she willed the compound to NY State that used it as a retreat for a number of years. During that period it was open to the public so Brenda and I visited. The state eventually sold the property to the flamboyant Roger Jakubowski, who had made millions selling hotdogs in the NY City area.
Anyway, the estate is now owned by Hartlan Crow, a developer from Texas, who has substantially restored the camp.
Here’s a shot of them racing in 1900.
Those same boats racing 100 years later.
This is one we saw when Brenda and I visited the lake in our guideboat.
One of the original dozen that were built is now on display in the Adirondack Museum with all of the others lovingly maintained and still kept on the lake. In 2004 a new boat was built to the class so that now, once again, there are a dozen boats on the lake that race together.
When Post married for the second time, it was to E.F. Hutton and subsequently she and Hutton were the owners of
Post was also the builder and first owner of Mar-a-Lago, now owned by our current president, Trump, if somehow you missed his tweet reminding you.
Anyway, visiting Lake Clear was a big part of my early years as well as when Brenda and I were newly married. We spent many hours around the proverbial campfire at the Lathrop’s cabin nearby, first with just Rob and then Chris too.
The four of us went on outings in the Guideboat.
And sat on the dock.
In our early years together, we rented a cabin with my parents. This is them on the top of Whiteface mountain. My mom is now nearly 90 and my dad’s been gone for about 5 years. He was a great guy and I think about him every day and still miss him terribly. Personally, I think he should have been given more time for “good behavior”.
Not sure what this was all about but there were lots of shenanigans while the Osborn clan was visiting.
These days I am still very much a boat lover and spend as much time afloat as I can but then you already know that. Today we spend more of our time on salt water with the sweet kind which is limited to our time on the CT River near our home.
We had many fun weekends aboard and some still involved sake.
So, after perhaps one too many nights afloat, perhaps with more sake, somehow Brenda began to change shape, especially in one particular spot. How’d that happen?
Suddenly, we had babies on board. Both Rob and Chris were aboard by 3 months old, 25 months apart, of course.
And bigger still.
And then even a bit bigger.
We fed ducks. Isn’t that what all kids do? And always with the most nutritious white Wonder Bread, of course.
Along the way we joined in on a big celebration of
There were many catboats, a lot of catboats. These photos were taken from high up in the rigging of the
Those were great times. Then we were “post-catboat” and onto our much larger at 38′ long, a Pearson Invicta yawl Artemis. The boys were getting bigger too.
Along the way, Chris and Pat decided to get in on the action and had one of their own, Travers, the first of two for them.
The too got a bigger boat. a
Always a bit of a daredevel, Rob always wanted to go aloft. This time on a friends boat, a lovely
Frank spent time with Rob teaching him some knots. And yes, Rob was bigger then as well.
His brother Christopher wasn’t going to be left out from all that fun up the mast. Both Chris and Rob were relentless in wanting to be aloft, sometimes when we were underway, to the constant torment of their Mother.
I recall a particularly fun time aloft for the boys as I put them each up the mast while we were sailing near Martha’s Vineyard West Chop, a particularly bumpy piece of water. As we bucked along each boy was repeatedly yanked up from the water, by the motion of the boat, and dramatically dumped into the next wave. They just loved it.
There was even some time for homework, or was it just coloring?
Sure enough, summer turned to fall but that didn’t keep us from the water. And yes, you can see, if you look closely, that Christopher is wearing a safety harness under his winter coat, attached to a lifeline, to keep him safe, of course.
As you can tell, I’ve been digging again through old photos and it’s been a lot of fun thinking back on all those years sailing weekends and on summer vacations aboard a series of increasingly bigger and unfortunately, more complicated and way more expensive boats.