I have been here in Horta for a few days trying to decide what I say about this place.
The problem is that it is just so amazing that I really don’t know where to start.
No wait, I’ll start with a view of Mt Pico, across the way on the island of Pico. The mountain, nearly 8,000 tall is the highest of any mountain in the Atlantic basin. Until today it has been shrouded in clouds since we arrived. Not this morning. It last erupted in 1562. A bit about the history of this remarkable island.
Perhaps not as dramatic as Pico, but Pandora looks great juxtaposed against the Horta waterfront. This may be the most beautiful place that I have ever anchored.
There are plenty of harbors that are full of boats, cruising, racing, fishing and others. However, unlike most, for someone to be here means that they have crossed an ocean. No day sailors here or charter boats. The closest place to this harbor is nearly 1,000 miles and that’s Portugal. The rest of the world…farther.
And, this passage was the first I have ever had where I crossed more than a single time zone. Here we are four hours ahead of the US East Coast. In the ocean there is a question of were to change the clock. Well, the answer is that the iPad knows… Of course…
About 1,500 boats pass through Horta every year, basically most of the cruising boats that cross the Atlantic. Compare those that cross the ocean with the number of midsize cruising boats in the US which probably number in the hundreds of thousands. As we all know, most boats in marinas never go anywhere except perhaps a two week trip and a few weekends each season. To sail thousands of miles, that’s a big deal.
Random fact: The number of small boats that cross the Atlantic every year is about the same number that attempt to scale Mt Everest.
All I am saying is that crossing the Atlantic seems like a big deal to me and I did it. I won’t think about the fact that there is still another 900 miles to go to Gibraltar and I am not there yet.
Pandora is anchored at the head of the harbor. It was remarkably busy when we came in but is now a lot more open with a decent amount of space around us. For the first two days I had to move three times because as the wind shifted I ended up on top of someone.
When I say “move” it was just about 15′ so that when the wind shifted I had at least a boat length from anyone. Note the fenders in case we bump into someone when the wind shifts, which is does regularly.
Somehow it looks open, but the boats are closer than they seem. When the breeze is about 180 degrees from what this photo shows, I am a bit more than a boat length from the boats tied up on the dock.
How about this view of shore from Pandora this morning.
Of course, the boats… From all over. Tied up four deep at the docks.
All the buildings on shore have beautiful tile roofs and are painted all sorts of pastel colors. It’s amazing.
And so green… With parks and lovely spots to just sit and watch the world go by.
The view down the harbor. Note the massive breakwater on the right that protects the harbor from the ocean. Just beyond the old fort is another breakwater so the opening to the ocean is a few hundred yards wide.
And all along the waterfront is a wide promenade, all intricately tiled. In fact, all the sidewalks also sport mosaic tiles, mostly in white and black. It is worth noting that I had to wait several days until I was able to take a photo in the sunshine as there is often a light mist falling.
I don’t know any details about the local fishing but there are a lot of small commercial boats that look very seaworthy. Most sport the colorful orange tops.
Of course, with all these boats, visiting and otherwise, comes a lot of stuff that needs to be fixed. There are a number of mobile repair shops. I like this one in particular, as it is similar to my own little micro truck. My truck, a small Suzuki Carry, wants to grow up to be this truck.
The interior of one of these mobile workshops. Pretty neat setup.
Today I spent time doing laundry in a laundromat that was so clean that you would feel fine folding your sheets on the floor. It was quite modern with a volcanic rock arch and super clean machines.
Back in the day this harbor was a stopping place for flying boats that had to refuel during transatlantic flights. I saw this photo in the laundromat, of all places.
This was the view out from the front door of the laundromat.
A close up of one of the two beautiful bronze bells on each side at the top of the building.
And the long “living wall” that goes in front of the building, part of a lovely flower lined park.
This island, and all of the others in the Azores, are volcanic and some of the peaks rise very abruptly from the sea. Near the harbor is a 850′ tall “hill?” and Ted, Jason and I hiked up and over it yesterday. Trust me, it’s bigger than it looks.
This is the back side, with the harbor on the other end. You can see the trail that comes down the back.
A closeup of some hikers, in the photo above, to give it scale.
The views from the top were quite impressive. A lovely old fort adjacent to a residential area.
And the old whaling station, now an aquarium and place to get a snack. This place immediately adjacent to a sloping beach where whales were dragged up to be rendered into oil.
The coastline is very rugged and the visibility amazing.
This image is of the largest documented wave to hit Horta, in February 1986, during a major storm. Local photographer Jose Henrique took this photo of a wave nearly 60 meters high.
As big as that wave was, these pansy like flowers are tiny, on a stone wall. From these tiny pansies on the top of a stone wall.
To a riot of nasturtiums, growing everywhere.
Cascading over walls. They do love it here.
And wild lilies that look like they belong at a funeral pop up in the middle of a meadow.
No need to get fennel at the market here. It grows everywhere and is huge.
Perhaps I will close with the sunrise today.
It has been a remarkable day. Lots of chores and we are beginning to design and paint a small mural on the marina wall to commemorate Pandora and her arrival in Horta. It is a tradition that thousands of boats celebrate every year.
Want to see more? You will have to come back.
Oh yeah. One more thing. I have to post a photo of this adorable puppy I saw yesterday. Yes, he is a puppy but is already two months old and will not get much bigger. I hear that he is a chihuahua mix. Perhaps there is a bit of pit bull. Couldn’t be…
Tomorrow Brenda arrives. I’m excited.
With her here Horta will be even an even more amazing place, and that’s saying something.