When we first visited Les Saintes a number of years ago, Brenda’s reaction, when she saw the brightly painted homes with red roofs, was “this is the prettiest place I have ever seen”.   And, like the other French islands we have visited, the food is great too.  Beautiful scenery and great food.  That was on our first year cruising the Caribbean and we still feel that way, years later.

We are on a mooring very close to an active ferry dock.  Hundreds of tourists, mostly from France, arrive daily from the big island of Guadeloupe, overnight bags in tow.   It makes for a rolly harbor during the day.  Not great, I’ll admit.  Off to the north is the big island of Guadeloupe and the view is pretty spectacular in the late afternoon.  This morning I was greeted by a partial rainbow.  It was very windy overnight with a series of strong squalls moving over the island. The first thing that comes to mind when I arrive here is that it looks like a seaside village in the Mediterranean, well at least what I imagine that would look like, as I have limited experience with such places.  Having said that, it feels quite French.  Last night Brenda and I went out to a favorite restaurant.  She had duck breast and I had octopus.  They were both quite good followed by crème brulee.  Yum. This archipelago of islands is only about 20 miles from Pointe de Pietre and yet has a very different feel.  As lush as Guadeloupe is, this island is very arid, more so than most of the others in the area.  The islands are just not tall enough to wring out much rain from the trades.

I am struck by the color of the water.  We’ve been here for a few days already and aren’t sure if we will leave soon for Martinique, about 70 miles from here, or wait until the next weather window, perhaps by next weekend.

Unlike other areas that we visit, here we take a mooring as the area near the town is quite deep and unless you are willing to anchor far out, it’s really the only option.  They seem to be well maintained and even though the water is nearly 40′ deep, you can clearly see the bottom.

The islands, and there are a number of them, ring a large harbor or bay, that is fairly well protected from the ocean swells.    This are is controlled by France and back in the day, when they were duking it out with the English, each nearby hilltop had a fort or lookout.  Yesterday a number of cruisers hiked to the top of one of the highest peaks.  You can see the tiny fort on top of the hill in the distance.  The group hiked up a well paved road that got steeper and steeper as we gained elevation.   The view of the harbor below was amazing. If you zoom in Pandora is in the middle of the harbor. Off to the right of the harbor are many local colorful fishing boats.  The light blue along the edge is shallow water.  It’s very clear water.  On the eastern or windward side of the island, not so placid, with waves crashing on the rocky shore. Zoom in and you can see the beautiful textures in the rocks and foam of crashing waves. Our friend Mark, from Roxy, takes pictures with his iPad and I could not resist getting a photo of him concentrating on the perfect shot. While I was looking at the local color, they were busy watching me.  Goats are a scourge on most islands, eating everything in sight.  As a result, many native plants can never gain a foothold so much of the island is defoliated.  So, here we are in a charming harbor, unsure about what’s next.  But hey, what’s the rush?

Perhaps I’ll go ashore for a baguette.  Brenda had some leftover from her dinner last night so lunch will be duckbreast and cheese on a baguette.  Double yum.

As I made my way south to Antigua back in early November, I realized that I really didn’t want to make the run north this spring, only to turn around a few months later to make the return run again next fall. 

The fact is that we really don’t use the boat all that much during the summer so sailing more than 3,500 miles round trip, just to let the boat sit for months, doesn’t make much sense.  And, frankly, when I get back in the spring, I am ready for a break.   Additionally, we have big plans for the house this summer, we are having the kitchen remodeled and I’m redoing the third and final bathroom that I will have done personally since we moved there a decade ago.  That’s a big job so not having the distraction of Pandora will surely help.  We are also planning some traveling which won’t leave a lot of time for using Pandora. 

When I first became involved with Salty Dawg, the group that does the rally, I wondered of the boats that make the run, how many do it year after year and how many just opt to leave the boat in the south for the winter, avoiding thousands of miles of ocean passages every year.   For many, I have learned, it’s a one way trip until they are finished cruising the area and head home, sometimes years later.

So after asking for advice from friends and speaking with a key vendor in Trinidad, the plan is to leave it south and see how it goes.  That’s a big change for us and we will have to see how it goes.   The advantage, beyond the wear and tear on me and Pandora is that there are excellent services in Trinidad so just about anything that I need to have done can be handled there.

This year, the list is long, including painting the decks and now fixing some really nasty scratches that someone put on the boat a few days ago.  I can’t prove it but suspect it was some kids on a small catamaran from a local sailing school.  There are a lot of them sailing around the harbor and it really looks like one of them smashed into the boat, not once but three times.

I wasn’t aboard but the fact that there is a small sneaker print on the hull certainly suggests that a kid pushed off with a salty shoe as they bumped down the hull.

I spoke to the director of the school and he came out to the boat only to say that because I didn’t see it happen…  Additionally, he says that he spoke with the instructors and they did not witness anyone running into Pandora.

I guess I am on my own.  Add that to the list for Trinidad.  Good thing that the company I chose to oversee all of the work is called “Perfect Finish” as I am going to need it.  Another year, another perfect finish.   Well, at least until another small boat crashes into Pandora again.   Another season, a few more boat dollars…

Setting aside the fact that just about every season someone in a small boat bumps into and scratches Pandora,  we have been visiting some really wonderful spots over the last few weeks since leaving Antigua.

As we moved down the coast of Guadeloupe, on our way to Pointe de Pietre, where we are now, we stopped at Pigeon Island, a Jacques Cousteau marine sanctuary.  It’s quite charming and is in the lee of the tallest mountains on the island.  The mountains are topped with clouds all the time.  As a result, there is a constant parade of rain showers, carried by the easterly trade winds.   As the winds move up the eastern side of the island, the steep rise in elevation cools the air, the dewpoint drops and it rains and the showers are carried over onto the western side of the island.  The rain is very light but perfect for forming rainbows all day. As we moved down the coast, early the next morning, on our way to Pointe de Pietre, the water was glass calm in the lee of the island, with a row of clouds marching into the distance.  The moment reminded me of a little steam train chugging it’s way over the horizon. Pointe de Pietre is the largest city in Guadeloupe and while it is a popular stopping point for cruisers, the water isn’t all that clear as it is a very industrial harbor.

Yesterday a group of us decided to rent cars and head into the mountains to visit a popular waterfall.   The roads on the island are very well maintained, generally two lane divided highways but take an exit and you are soon on narrow winding roads. As you climb higher and higher up the mountainside, the going gets a lot steeper and much of the time it’s first gear all the way.   As you get higher up, the roads are barely wide enough for one subcompact car and the switchback turns are sometimes a 45 degree pitch and the car can barely keep going, even in the lowest gear.

It’s wonderful to watch the vegetation change as you climb higher and higher, becoming more lush as the kilometers roll by.

Once you are perhaps 2,000′ above sea-level, the air is noticeably cooler and huge tree ferns are everywhere. 
The near constant rain means that there are rivers and streams flowing in every valley. This particular park has the tallest waterfall on the island, a series of three falls with a total elevation of over 1,000′.  It’s so tall you can see it from the ocean as you pass by.   This shot is from the entrance to the park, an overlook that shows the two largest cascades on the island, perhaps in the eastern Caribbean. The walk to a spot where you can view the falls closer takes about an hour as a well maintained walkway meanders through the rainforest.   There are a lot of steps, up and down both ways.   Some are wood and others carved out of the rocks.    There is water dripping everywhere and all surfaces are completely covered with plants, small and large, competing to grow.    Some are tiny mosses on wet walls. Others, tiny ferns growing from every crack and crevice. Everywhere you look, mossy green.A riot of green everywhere. There are certainly orchids in the upper story of the huge trees but most are not in bloom this time of year.   I did spy some delicate orchids, not currently flowering affixed to branches in the clearings, where sun could penetrate.  In the dense forest, there isn’t enough light near the ground for most orchids to grow properly.  There were a few orchids in bloom like this delicate bletilla. Along the way there are a number of overlooks.  Brenda and our friend Lynn were enjoying the view, while taking a rest.
This day we had rented three cars and traveled together for much of the day.  We only got lost once or twice…After our walk in the rainforest, we stopped at a lovely spot for lunch and after that, a distillery where we were treated to a number of tastings.   It’s hard to say if it was the rum or the presenter that was the most entertaining.  She was quite a character and after listening to her share thoughts about each rum in her wonderful French accent, none of us left empty handed. It was a long day, nearly 12  hours, and the driving up in the mountains, with it’s twists and turns was tiring.   However, it was a great way to spend the day and it sure beats snow.

Guess what?  Snow at home AGAIN.  Better them than me.

So, Trinidad this summer?  That’s the plan.  For now, cruising with friends, especially in the French islands, perfect!

At least that makes the newest scratches in Pandora more bearable.

When we were in Antigua we had a tough time with data on our phone as the Google fi phone, while it has pretty good data, is slow and to get a data only plan for Antigua didn’t make sense as we were not planning to stay for all that long. And, any data plan available in Antigua would not work elsewhere.

We had heard from friends that once we moved to Guadeloupe we could sign up for a plan that would follow us from island to island and even include Antigua if we head back there later in the season.

On our quest, a few days ago, Brenda and I caught a bus to a nearby city/town to track down a data plan and a new phone.  Sadly, Brenda’s iPhone got sick and has developed a nasty habit of the screen going black without warning, usually a few seconds after opening it up.  Not great and to make matters worse, she hasn’t backed up her phone in some time so we have to be careful about any resets that might compromise getting the data off of it when we get home.

Fortunately, we were able to get a decent phone for less than $150 and a data plan that was amazingly cheap at about $50 month for 70 gigabites, a huge amount of data.  And, the best part is that we can continue to use the plan for just about anyplace that we decide to go this season.    As we have become accustomed to instant data and connectivity over the years and being able to facetime of view videos on demand has become a “necessity” and no longer a luxury.

Brenda was chafing at the complexity of being in contact with family and friends so she’s a lot happier now.  That’s good.

On Sunday we had lunch out with our friends Lynn and Mark of Roxy.  We chose a lovely French restaurant.  It was very nice. The view of the harbor here in Deshaies Guadeloupe was wonderful.With the large cliff on one side of the harbor and the mountains out in the distance, the wind can funnel through the harbor and can get a bit iffy when the trade winds are up.   The view of town is especially nice in the afternoon when the sun is setting to the west. The other night we had cocktails, or “sundowners” as they are called in the cruising community on board Kalunamoo.  Amazingly we all saw a “green flash”.  This is when the sun dips below the horizon and shows a last moment burst of green, a sort of spark.  It’s impressive and not very common.  Sadly, I didn’t have my camera so no photo…

This shot is of Kalunamoo the other night as the sun set.  Alas, no green flash that night but pretty nice, never the less. This afternoon I decided to take a short walk up to a swimming hole on a stream that leads into the harbor.  Much of the walk was on cement path.  It was very peaceful.Along the way, as I followed the stream, I passed some very nice palms.
There were also some really big trees.  The vegetation here is much more lush than in Antigua as the island gets a lot more rain.  After a very short walk off of the trail, and a scramble over the creek, I was rewarded by a lovely little pool.  I stopped to cool off and put my feet into the water for a time while I enjoyed the sounds of the water running over the rocks and into the pool.  I could see quite a few fish swimming around below.I’d have liked to head back there with my bathing suit but am not sure if I would  have the nerve to dip into water that is quite that cold for my tropical accustomed body these days.

Yesterday we rented a car with our friends Bill and Maureen from Kalunamoo, but that’s a story for another day.

Today, off to Pigeon Island, about half way down the island.  After that, moving onto Les Saintes, one of our favorite places.  More to tell about all that.

However, the big story is that Brenda, sans iPhone, at least has a data plan.

Mission accomplished.

So, all for now.  Anchor up…

Well, it took three weeks but we finally left Antigua and headed to Guadeloupe,  arriving yesterday afternoon in lovely Deshaies.

It indeed felt like old times as I headed ashore and cleared in at the T shirt shop.  Nobody asked about vaccination or for the results of a test.  It is always remarkable how much more laid back things are in the French islands verses Antigua.  To clear in for 3 Euros is so different than in Antigua, where you go from window two to window three and back to two and finally window one and all that is after filling out the paperwork on a desktop computer.

I can’t recall the exact amount that it cost to get into Antigua back in November but it was something like $85 US and when I cleared out on Friday the cost, taking into account the time we had left the boat in English Harbor, on a mooring, the cost was nearly $250 US, a bit different than our experience in Guadeloupe.

When we pulled in yesterday, after a boisterous 45 mile passage at an average speed just shy of 9kts, the anchorage was pretty full.  As a result, we had to anchor in 45′ of water and on the side of the harbor that is more exposed to wrap-around swell, not Brenda’s first choice.

This morning we moved to the other side of the harbor and ended up re-anchoring a number of times as other boats left so we were able to get a more sheltered spot.  It’s quite calm now with the protection of a huge cliff off to starboard.  It’s a spectacular view from the cockpit. Last night we had a terrific rainstorm that mercifully washed off all of the salt that had accumulated on deck as we slogged our way here.  With waves washing over the bow for the entire run and cascading down the decks, things were pretty salty.

For some reason, just off of the point this morning, probably from the moisture rolling off of the mountain, was a piece of a rainbow that hung around for nearly two hours.  It was a beautiful sight against the mountain and white clouds in the morning light. As the sun came up, I could see the mist rising up as the sun dried the dense vegetation onshore.   This island has very high mountains, often shrouded in clouds, so there is abundant rain and many steams and rivers.  Nearby, accessible by dink, is a lovely fresh water swimming hole.  Brenda and I hope to visit it in the next few days.

The town of Deshaies is very French, quaint and has a distinct Mediterranean vibe.   The first thing I did after clearing in yesterday was to head to my favorite wine and cheese store.  We have not been here since 2019, just before the pandemic struck.   The proprietor immediately recognized my shirt “Pandora”.  Brenda and I had a lovely rose, two choices of cheese and a baguette for dinner.

Today we head ashore for lunch with some friends.    Perlez vous Francais?  Non…

The view of town from our bow is just so French.  Oddly, nobody ashore seems to speak English all that well.  Why is that?  At home nearly everyone speaks English.Tomorrow we will be heading to a nearby town to get a data sim card and a new phone as Brenda’s iPhone died.   Very inconvenient as we both just have to have our own phone and NEED MORE DATA.   I am told that the connection with a data-only card is strong enough to watch Netflix.  We, especially Brenda, are starving for more video time with family.

Ok, one more photo of Deshaies.  What a lovely spot. So, I guess that we will stay here for about a week and pay a visit to the nearby botanical garden, swim in the amazingly clear water.  Even anchored in 45 feet last night we were able to see the bottom.

Well, after what seems like years since we have been to the French Islands it’s good to be back.

All I can say is Viva la France!  And, of course…  That will be two croissants and a baguette please.

 

It’s mid-January, and Brenda and  I are still in Antigua, nearly three weeks after we returned from the US.  We have finally recovered, well mostly recovered, from our colds, compliments of our adorable grandchildren, the little viral incubators that they are.

The weather here has been terrific, with daytime temperatures in the low 80s and 70s overnight.  Winds have been moderate which has made getting around the harbor quite simple.

We’ve been eating out a good deal with the highlight Brenda’s birthday on the 15th at perhaps the nicest place in the area.  During cocktails we had a very nice Zoom event, compliments of Chris’s partner Melody, who set it up.  Guests included, in addition to Melody and Chris, our son Rob and his family along with Brenda’s oldest friend LeeAnne and Rob and Christopher’s adopted uncle Craig.  It was a very nice event and Brenda was very touched.  It would  have been better to be with everyone in person but Zoom was a pretty good second choice.  Brenda and I continue to enjoy sitting up on Pandora’s deck, made possible by reasonable trade winds, to enjoy the sunset every evening.    Some nights it’s more colorful than others but always a sight to behold.With a full moon a few nights ago, we were treated to a great show.  The moon rose around sunset and didn’t set until after dawn.  Here’s a shot of today’s moonset and our friend Tom’s Rally Point, all by herself in the harbor.  Somehow this photo doesn’t do the moment justice.  On Friday we will make our way around to Jolly Harbor where we will do some last minute provisioning before making the 45 mile run to Deshaies Guadeloupe.  Winds on Saturday look good, about 15kts out of the east which means we will make the run with wind just forward of the beam, making for a nice run.  The seas will be pretty large, perhaps 8′ or so but the period between crests will be long, 15 seconds, making for a reasonable and fast ride.

Friends have asked what it’s like being here this winter and how we feel about the risk of infection.  The simple answer is “normal” and better than we had expected.  I expect that a few of our cruising friends who decided to sit out this season, as they endure below freezing temperatures up north, are probably questioning their decision to take a pass this season.

Last year, pre-vaccination, it was challenging to move between islands because of expensive PCR tests and mandatory quarantines upon arrival.  As moving to other islands was impractical, a big issue was finding a way to get three month visas renewed without being exposed to possible infection.   Visas had to be renewed in St John, requiring a cab ride and a long wait in line, among the then unvaccinated masses.  Not safe at all.

Now, as in pre-pandemic years, the simple option is just to leave the island and go elsewhere.  Return, within 24 hours or at any time down the road and the 90 day clock starts all over again.

This season could not be more different with regards to Covid as most everyone knows of someone that is vaccinated and yet still caught Covid and recovered.  The good news is that in most cases, with those that are fully vaccinated, a case is usually not much more than a bad cold.  Having said that, show up at an event, with even a sniffle, and you will quickly become an outcast.  It’s not really as much about the danger of Covid but more about becoming infected and the inconvenience of having to delay plans for moving to another island because of the need to quarantine and test again.

There’s no question that the governments of some islands are also feeling a bit better about all this as moving from place to place is now a lot easier.  For example, to head to Guadeloupe you are still being asked to get a rapid test prior to departure and yet nobody is asking to view the results upon arrival.  I also heard that once cleared into Guadeloupe you can travel sans-test to Martinique, another French island, assuming that you don’t stop in Dominica, a non French island, along the way.

Brenda and I don’t feel confident about stopping in Dominica this year.  When I asked  about the status of vaccination there, a friend, and admittedly this is second hand information, said that she had heard that “vaccination was encouraged”.  That’s not working for me.  Additionally, the pandemic came on the heels of back to back hurricane hits so things have been very tough on that island for years now.  Yes, I understand that the risk of infection is more about my own vaccination status than that of others but I still feel more comfortable being around others that are vaccinated.

Today I received news about a violent attack on a cruiser who had anchored off of St Vincent, when two armed men boarded his boat, tied him up and took everything that was not nailed down before fleeing.  It’s that sort of thing that makes me very nervous when considering visiting some islands that have been particularly hard hit.

Here in Antigua and on many other islands, life is fairly normal and just about the only reason you’d know that anyone is still concerned about Covid is that masks are mandatory everywhere.   In early November the Antigua government took the controversial position of requiring vaccination for all government employees and those involved in the hospitality business, firing those who did not comply.  As you can imagine, vaccination levels are much higher now.

Taking a hard line to reduce infection was vital as the economy of Antigua, like so many other islands, is heavily based on tourism.   They are receiving the benefit of this decision now as the marinas are packed to capacity and restaurants and hotels are busy.  Additionally, all visitors are required to show proof of vaccination to enter the country.

While those in colder climates struggle with finding a way to spend time in public during cold weather, here in the islands, where just about everything is outdoors, in tropical breezes, life seems pretty normal and everyone is going about their business with little restriction.

While a negative Covid test is required upon arrival in all islands, at this writing, most now allow the less expensive rapid test as opposed to the lab-based PCR test that was the norm until recently.  A few islands still require the more expensive PCR test which might lead to some cruisers heading elsewhere for cost reasons as PCR tests can run upwards of $200-$250 per person.

Many cruisers, after enjoying the holidays here or back in the states, are now beginning to head to other islands with many making the daylight run to the next island to the south, Guadeloupe.   Fortunately, entry there is still as simple in Deshaies, as it had been in the past.  Head ashore to the T shirt shop, pay a few Euros and you’re good to go.  In most cases, cruisers aren’t even being asked for their test results.Given the fear of breakthrough infection, even if it’s not particularly risky for healthy vaccinated people, many cruisers have a supply of rapid tests aboard so that they can check themselves, in advance of paying for a proctored test, the sort required for entry, as they don’t want to pay the $100US for the  rapid test only to find that they must wait due to a positive result.

The general consensus with most cruisers that I have contacted, is that they plan on more spending time in their favorite places so that they can avoid the complexity and expense of regular testing.

In addition to Deshaies, another stop in Guadeloupe is the small archipelago at the southern end of the island, Les Saintes, with its laid-back Mediterranean vibe and great French food.   From there, some will opt to head to Dominica, known for great hiking but many will choose to make the 100 mile run directly Martinique with its mix of bustling cities and quaint villages.

Both Guadeloupe and Martinique offer great variety and it’s easy to spend a few months at either island without the complexities of testing before moving elsewhere.

For cruisers visiting Martinique, clearing into St Pierre is a good first stop, nestled in the shadow of Mt Pele.  From there some move to the bustling capital city of Forte de France or, perhaps continue on directly to the village of St Anne, with its expansive anchorage, a favorite spot for cruisers to hang out, some for the entire season.  Nearby la Marin is a great place to provision and boat supplies are readily available.

All and all, as the pandemic hopefully moves into its final critical stage, life here in the Caribbean feels a lot like “old times” and there are hints that things are finally getting back to normal.

One thing for sure, based on the number of “first timers” that joined the Salty Dawg Rally last November, is that living through the last two years, with so much uncertainty, has caused many to reevaluate their lives and adopt the YOLO, you only-live-once, attitude.  As they say, “you’ll never be any younger or any healthier so cast off the dock lines and go cruising”.

As my friends up in New England are coping with single digit temperatures lamenting for the days when they were able to enjoy alfresco dining, those of us that are here in the Caribbean are enjoying gentle trade winds, daily visits to the beach and those iconic sunsets that the tropics are known for.

So, if you have been dreaming of a tropical winter, now’s the time to begin planning in earnest for next season.   And speaking of planning, why not sign up to participate in the Salty Dawg Sailing Association webinar series, more than 40 topics in all to help jump start your plans to head south next season.  www.saltydawgsailing.org

So, here we are, hanging out in Falmouth Harbor, Antigua for a few more days before beginning our journey to Guadeloupe.  And, like most afternoons, I expect that Brenda and I will head to the beach for a swim before heading back and showering before dinner aboard Pandora. As is so common here, we were treated to a brief shower this morning followed by a stunning rainbow.  This is only a sliver as it was tough to capture the whole spectacle.  Beautiful never the less and more proof that cruising the Caribbean with covid is still a great place to be.