Starboard tack from now on…
Well, after sending two weeks in Marigot, St Lucia, it was time to begin our run north to Antigua. It was a real treat to spend time at the lovely resort attached to the marina and to enjoy the views of Pandora with the ocean in the distance. I took this phot from the bow of Che, the huge cat that I have mentioned in past posts.
It was wonderful to watch the fiery sunsets every evening.
And see the colors change with the minutes. It’s amazing how quickly it gets dark every night.
Yesterday, Brenda and I sailed less than ten miles north from Marigot to Rodney Bay where we went into yet another marina to spend two days with our friends Bill and Maureen of Kalunamoo, marking the beginning of our run north and the beginning of the end of our season in the Caribbean. The marina staff was nice enough to put us next to each other on the dock.
You may recall that Bill and Maureen were our mentors back in 2012 when we made our first trip down the ICW on our way to the Bahamas. They proceeded us in the Caribbean by a few years, but ultimately we followed them again, so here we are.
We will begin our near 200 mile run north on Monday with an overnight to Antigua beginning tomorrow morning, Monday.
As the wind is nearly always from the east, we have spent the entire season as we have headed south on a port tack and now that we are turning to the north, we will be on a starboard tack. This will also be the case for the 200 mile from Antigua to the USVI where I will join the Homeward Bound Rally in May.
I expect that we will continue on a starboard tack much of the way until Pandora is north of the Bahamas on our passage to the US. As Pandora moves farther north we will encounter the SW prevailing winds on the US East Coast that are dominant.
We’d prefer to move to Antigua doing short 70 or so mile jumps over a three or four day period, but the wind will shift back to a more NE direction on Tuesday and we really want to avoid being hard on the wind for the nearly 200 mile run to Antigua. Sure, we could wait but that means being here for perhaps another week and that’s too long.
This time of year the trades begin to shift to a slightly more ESE direction so it’s generally easier to head north than south, unlike earlier in the season when ENE was the norm, favoring southbound runs.
The wind won’t be particularly strong, at about 15kts with gusts to 20, so we should have a decent run and I am guessing that it will take about 26-31 hours to go the 185 miles. Along the way we will pass Martinique, Dominica and Guadeloupe so if we decide that we want to stop, there are plenty of options.
I will, as always, have my tracker transmitting our position so feel free to follow along. See the link “where in the world is Pandora” on the top of this page.
We really enjoyed our time at the Marigot Bay Resort and I am looking forward to organizing a rendezvous next March with the Dawgs as spending a week or two there is a nice way to break up the season.
In addition to the lovely pool that is the centerpiece of the resort, there is a very nice spa where Brenda spent some time. The entrance to the spa area is, I guess, best described as Zen with a plunge pool near the entrance. I did wonder if anyone had ever sat in the two white chairs.
If you prefer a small plunge pool with a water feature, this is for you.
They also have a steam room so you can get all hot and then jump into the nearby pool. And, all of this is available to folks on the docks and moorings. Such a deal.
The day before we headed out to Rodney Bay, we rented a car with Stephanie and Jim to tour the island. To say that driving on the left on those narrow and winding roads was challenging, doesn’t begin to do justice to driving in St Lucia. It’s a bit hair-raising.
Along with a number of the other islands in the eastern Caribbean, St Lucia has an active volcano. Most of the evidence of what’s happening down deep in the earth is the presence of hot springs and steam vents. This spot looks really nasty and nothing can grow. The smell is a strong odor of sulfur. Not a place I’d want to have a picnic.
I understand that the venting steam is a near permanent fixture of the area.
The island has been volcanically active for millions of years. In past millenniums, violently so as evidenced by the pitons, the cones of long extinct volcanos. These formations are all that is left after the softer outer parts of the structure weathered away and left the hard igneous rock. This view from an overlook along the winding, switchback road.
Of course, what’s an overlook without a couples photo?
We visited a chocolate factory and store. What a variety, including chocolate infused gin. And Brenda, being a gin girl, had to get a bottle.
The product displays were in very cleverly modified steel shipping containers. Below, in their restaurant, we had coffee and a snack.
Later, we had lunch at Ladera, a spot overlooking the Pitons. It is perhaps the best view of any place we have ever had a meal. A lovely open air spot, high above the water.
The view of the few yachts on moorings, in more than 100′ of water, far below.
Zoom in on the one big yacht and you can see that it is Excellence, owned by an American, Herb Chambers. He owns a slew of automobile dealerships in the North East, US.
She is a spectacular yacht, one of two that he owns. This one was built in Germany a few years ago. She can be yours for a week for about $100k.
Of course, if you split the charter with another couple, like the group in this video, it’s half price, a mere $50k plus expenses and tip. I can tell you, if I had the coin, this boat would be on my list. The owner lives on the CT River not far from our club in Essex. However, this boat never comes up the river, spending it’s time in the Caribbean and likely the Med in the summer. His smaller one, a mere 150′ long, is also named Excellence. Not bad Herb. Well done.
After lunch we visited one of the many beautiful waterfalls on the island. This one, diamond falls, is not far from the sulphur vents so the water spilling over the falls is warm and mineral laden. The water stained the rocks and was a dark grey. We were told that the color of the water changes day to day as the leaching of water from the vents evolves.
Brenda and Stephanie enjoy each other’s company.
Just down stream from the falls are a series of mineral bath pools. We all donned bathing suits and enjoyed time soaking. It was nice to be there alone as the crowds in past visits were pretty large. Interestingly, the water in the pool was clear during this visit and last time, a coco brown.
So ends the southbound journey of Pandora for this season. Even though we are thousands of miles from home, it still feels like the end.
Perhaps I’ll close with a photo of Pandora, under sail, taken for us by a friend. Of course, you know that we were sailing south, because we were on a port tack.
So much for that, it’s starboard tack from now on. Well, mostly…
Oh yea, a special thanks to my friend Maureen, yes that Maureen, to point out that I really messed up the whole port and starboard tack thing. I fixed it…I think…
Yes, I know that there are still a few typos. Such is life…



We are spending about two weeks here at the Marigot Bay Resort, tied up at the dock, AC cranking away while we waste water with, sort of, long showers aboard. Actually, compared to folks on shore, our normal water consumption aboard Pandora is about 15 gallons per day and now on the dock a whopping 30 gallons per day, I’d guess.
The view from our cockpit is, well, tropical.
And while we are spending about $70/day on the dock, the visitors in the hotel are paying about $500/night. Such a deal!
To be able to enjoy the pool while paying about the same cost as a mooring in Martha’s Vineyard is pretty appealing. Brenda has actually been doing a bit of weaving poolside.
Not a bad spot to spend an afternoon.
We have met some really interesting folks here including the crew of a nearby mega yacht, a huge catamaran, the third largest in the world.
We have enjoyed some fun evenings aboard Pandora and their digs. How about a singalong? Her cockpit is wider than Pandora is long. Big frigging boat. 
Just to prove that the visitor is really aboard Pandora with our dink “HOPE” in the background, a sort of “proof of life” shot.
No wait, this is even better. He made himself at home in our cabin. Brenda wasn’t happy about that. Alas, gone pre-poop. GO AWAY! This is just so BULLFINCH.
The harbor is a very popular spot for party boats to tour. They come in with music blaring and well lubricated passengers. I wonder if they have enough life jackets aboard. Hmm…
In the interest of full reporting, chill though I may be, life aboard Pandora here isn’t without it’s mishaps. The most recent “insult” was compliments of some sloppy docking by a 40′ Sunsail charter boat that tied up near us for one night. He did a pretty good job of coming in but his inexperience showed when he left and clipped one of my stanchions with his grill. Fortunately, the damage was limited to the single one. I was able to bend it, sort of, back in place but it’s clear I’ll need to source a new one when I get home as the top is a full 2″ out of plumb. And, it should be fun to find a part that was sourced in Finland in 2006 or so.
When I return home I will only be there for about three weeks before I head back to Antigua with my friend Craig. We will spend about ten days working our way north to the USVI and then will join the Salty Dawg Homeward Bound rally to the US and make landfall in VA where she will receive her lithium battery., house bank, upgrade.
One issue, if I put it in the cockpit locker, is how I will transfer the fuel, up hill, into my fuel tanks. If it’s on deck, gravity will do the trick but below I will need a pump. After checking a number of sources, 
I have submitted a number of photos this season and most were rejected. However, I learned a few weeks ago that they will be sending out one of my images next Sunday, my second. When you consider how many members there are and they can only use 365 photos a year, getting mine chosen is a pretty big deal.
We also hope head a bit farther south to Bequia (pronounced Bekway) for a bit and then return to Marigot in early April where we will leave Pandora for a few weeks. At that point, both Brenda and I will head back home, open up the house and get the kitchen stuff moved to prepare for the renovation to begin. New floors, counter tops and painted cabinets are on the list. It’s going to take a few months to complete the job so we want to get going in early May with the hope that it doesn’t take the entire summer to complete the job.
They moved aboard last May and will be sailing the southern Caribbean this coming summer, south of the Hurricane belt and expect to be back in Antigua next November when the fall Rally fleet returns. Me too…
As you wander, you pass a reflecting pond.
The sculptures that are placed on the grounds are quite large, like this 8′ tall mask beautifully sited on the edge of the pond.
From across the way, the “mask”, in the distance, is framed by this piece.
I thought that the siting for this trio was perfect. I understand that the crops in the distance are rotated between bananas and sugar cane to keep yields high.
Another dramatic view was these two 12-15′ high wire pieces.
Thinking about that ficus plant you left in your office at the beginning of the pandemic? I expect that it didn’t fare as well as this one.
And, speaking of “house plants gone wild”, how about this strangling fig? It’s certainly living up to it’s name.
A display garden, with sugar cane and an old narrow gauge steam engine once used to move freshly cut cane to the factory. It’s always a rush to process cane as it begins to ferment within hours of being cut.
And, speaking of the factory, this equipment has been long abandoned with production now in nearby modern buildings. The old steam machinery and distillery are still open for viewing. These gears once connected a huge steam engine to the cane crushers and other equipment connected by long belts that snaked through the building.
A riot of pipes and pulleys.
The huge fermentation vats, each a dozen feet across.
Below the building displaying the old factory equipment, a tasting room. Try all you like at no charge but be prepared to elbow your way to the bar. Not a lot of social distancing.
And some huge warehouses with giant wood barrels for the early aging of the rum. I have no idea how many barrels one of these holds but they were perhaps 20′ tall. That’s a lot of rum.
Later the rum is transferred into smaller barrels where the rum ages for years and sometimes decades.
A lot of rum being prepared for market.
As you can imagine, this sort of production was a source of great wealth and the Clement family was quite well off. This was the family home up until the middle of of the 20th century.
The place is a picture of elegant tropical living.
With beautiful plantings all around. Of course, their home was up-wind from the factory.
We purchased a good stash to share with friends. “would you care for a tot of rum, imported to the US aboard SV Pandora?”
Well maintained cement pathways winding through a variety of bananas from all over.
The views were really beautiful and very lush.
On the nearby hillside, many, many bananas.
Bananas that set their fruit in a remarkable spiral.
I was struck by the way the fruit grew on this variety. Sort of like an upside down layer cake.
Many bananas that are only eaten cooked. Actually, that’s the bulk of the types. Not sweet. The type we see in our markets is plantain. They look like the sweet ones but taste like a raw potato unless cooked.
The type that is most commonly grown and the vast bulk sold worldwide are Cavendish. They are actually clones, all genetically identical and set fruit asexually meaning that they do not need to be pollinated and never develop seeds.
Along with the Marigot Bay Resort, we are looking forward to touring St Lucia and again visiting a restaurant that has arguably among the best views anywhere.
It overlooks the Pitons, long extinct volcanic cones that rise up dramatically, dominating the landscape.
It’s been great visiting Martinique but it’s time to move on.
To call it a “town” perhaps overstates things a bit. This is just about all of it and after dark, it’s even smaller when many of the businesses close.
Saturday, yesterday, is market day, with all sorts of vendors showing their wares.
The Caribbean is known as the “spice islands” and the vendors do not disappoint with a huge variety to choose from.
The diminutive scale of the town is not proportional to the size of the harbor, perhaps the largest anchorage in the Caribbean, about 1.5 miles long and a half mile wide. Without a panorama to show all the boats, perhaps a shot of the town dock gives a feel for how many boats there are. You can’t see the other side, but it’s just as packed. In the distance, part of the fleet, several hundred strong. I’d guess that this view is about 10% of the total.
Nearby, perhaps a 30 minute run in a dink at high speed, is La Marin, home to a huge marina with more than 1,000 slips. The number of charter boats is daunting.
Just one of many piers lined with dozens, no hundreds, of cats and monohulls, standing by and ready for you to jump on board and head out on holiday.
Don’t like the idea of a black umbrella in the tropical heat? There are other colors to choose from. Problem solved, or as some local T shirts advertise, “Pani Pwoblem”. I am trying to imagine what happens if the grill won’t light. “Roberto, just squirt more lighter fluid on those, sort of smoldering coals. ” Wooosh!!!! Run away! Run? On second thought, SWIM AWAYYYYY!
Anyway, St Anne is a nice place to hang out in a less commercial environment and yet still close enough to La Marin to be able to buy most anything you might need.
Note how they are steered. No fancy rudder, just an oar sticking way out the back. With all that sail way up in the bow, I expect that the boat has a lot of weather helm so having the long oar way out back will give it a lot of leverage.
Better yet, check out this brief video that gives a pretty good feel for how exciting the races are.And finally, to the topic of this post…
For now, we are making the best of what we have and are enjoying sharing video calls with family, especially our three grandchildren Tori, Rhette and Emme.