Help, I need to connect!
Over the years we have been cruising, especially the last ten years when we spent much of each winter afloat, we have increasingly been focused on having Internet connectivity where ever we are.
Back before I retired in 2012 we spent several time in Maine most summers and as cell coverage in much of Maine was and still is terrible so we were always trying to find Wi-Fi that we could tap into.
Early on, we put a Wi-Fi booster aboard with the hope of tapping into routers that were too far away but we only had limited success on that front, as more and more routers required a password. And to get that code, we needed to visit, eat a meal or pay for time in an Internet Cafe.
When we were in Cuba in 2016 this problem was particularly acute as there was no way for us to “phone home” and the only way to communicate with family during the two months that we were there was by purchasing scratch off paper passes for computer time in a Cuban government hotel. These “passes” had a scratch off area that revealed a code to be into a browser on a computer terminal. It was supremely frustrating and the speed, really slow. Think AOL dial-up speeds. Just doing a blog post, assuming that all the text was written prior to logging on, often took 90 minutes and three “passes”. And, getting these passes was often very difficult as they were in limited supply and many users were hording them, just in case.
So years later, as we expanded our cruising horizons to the Bahamas and now the Caribbean, the quest for connectivity continues to be a focus and while access is a lot better, our expectations have increased faster than the connectivity available will allow.
Most recently we purchased a new phone and installed a simcard for Digicel a local carrier that is supposed to give us data coverage in most of the islands of the Caribbean. It worked perfectly for about 6 weeks but after that I was having trouble getting it “topped up” as the instructions were all in French and while I tried to get things resolved, it finally shut down for lack of payment. However, today I see that my card was charged for the monthly fee so perhaps things will get better. Details to come on that front but I am not all that confident…
The point in all of this is that while connectivity is better than ever, well, it’s not that simple and requires jumping through some pretty amazing hoops to keep the information flowing while we move from island to island. Some of our friends just purchase simcards for each island and swap them out as they move around.
For the last two weeks we have had the luxury of being on a dock here at Marigot Bay Resort, enjoying visits to the pool, meals out and time with friends that are staying here too. And, best of all, or at least nice, is excellent wifi, assuming that I am willing to come ashore where the signal is strongest.
Along with all the other amazing things that he is involved in, Elon Musk is well on the way toward establishing satellite based wifi that he is planning to make available anywhere on the planet through his burgeoning Starlink internet program. It is a very ambitious plan but those who have bet against him in the past have regretted it.
Delivering internet access through fiber optic cables or cellular service has always seemed like a very complicated way to handle things and Starlinks plan of using low orbit satellites just makes sense.
All of this is very confusing and hugely complicated to put into service but the promise of the technology will transform how we stay connected. I found this video that describes, in very clear terms, why this approach may very well be vastly better than what is available now and the probable impact it will have on marine communications.
The commentary is focused on the megayacht community but it isn’t much of a leap to imagine that there will be applications for smaller yachts in a few years.
Check out this fascinating description of the future.When I think about how things have changed over the last few years, I can only imagine what the future will bring. I just hope that I will be out on the boat when things really get going.
In the meantime, all I can say is that, all I can say is HELP! I NEED TO CONNECT!
Elon! Elon! Are you listening? It seems he is…



We are spending about two weeks here at the Marigot Bay Resort, tied up at the dock, AC cranking away while we waste water with, sort of, long showers aboard. Actually, compared to folks on shore, our normal water consumption aboard Pandora is about 15 gallons per day and now on the dock a whopping 30 gallons per day, I’d guess.
The view from our cockpit is, well, tropical.
And while we are spending about $70/day on the dock, the visitors in the hotel are paying about $500/night. Such a deal!
To be able to enjoy the pool while paying about the same cost as a mooring in Martha’s Vineyard is pretty appealing. Brenda has actually been doing a bit of weaving poolside.
Not a bad spot to spend an afternoon.
We have met some really interesting folks here including the crew of a nearby mega yacht, a huge catamaran, the third largest in the world.
We have enjoyed some fun evenings aboard Pandora and their digs. How about a singalong? Her cockpit is wider than Pandora is long. Big frigging boat. 
Just to prove that the visitor is really aboard Pandora with our dink “HOPE” in the background, a sort of “proof of life” shot.
No wait, this is even better. He made himself at home in our cabin. Brenda wasn’t happy about that. Alas, gone pre-poop. GO AWAY! This is just so BULLFINCH.
The harbor is a very popular spot for party boats to tour. They come in with music blaring and well lubricated passengers. I wonder if they have enough life jackets aboard. Hmm…
In the interest of full reporting, chill though I may be, life aboard Pandora here isn’t without it’s mishaps. The most recent “insult” was compliments of some sloppy docking by a 40′ Sunsail charter boat that tied up near us for one night. He did a pretty good job of coming in but his inexperience showed when he left and clipped one of my stanchions with his grill. Fortunately, the damage was limited to the single one. I was able to bend it, sort of, back in place but it’s clear I’ll need to source a new one when I get home as the top is a full 2″ out of plumb. And, it should be fun to find a part that was sourced in Finland in 2006 or so.
When I return home I will only be there for about three weeks before I head back to Antigua with my friend Craig. We will spend about ten days working our way north to the USVI and then will join the Salty Dawg Homeward Bound rally to the US and make landfall in VA where she will receive her lithium battery., house bank, upgrade.
One issue, if I put it in the cockpit locker, is how I will transfer the fuel, up hill, into my fuel tanks. If it’s on deck, gravity will do the trick but below I will need a pump. After checking a number of sources, 
I have submitted a number of photos this season and most were rejected. However, I learned a few weeks ago that they will be sending out one of my images next Sunday, my second. When you consider how many members there are and they can only use 365 photos a year, getting mine chosen is a pretty big deal.
We also hope head a bit farther south to Bequia (pronounced Bekway) for a bit and then return to Marigot in early April where we will leave Pandora for a few weeks. At that point, both Brenda and I will head back home, open up the house and get the kitchen stuff moved to prepare for the renovation to begin. New floors, counter tops and painted cabinets are on the list. It’s going to take a few months to complete the job so we want to get going in early May with the hope that it doesn’t take the entire summer to complete the job.
They moved aboard last May and will be sailing the southern Caribbean this coming summer, south of the Hurricane belt and expect to be back in Antigua next November when the fall Rally fleet returns. Me too…
As you wander, you pass a reflecting pond.
The sculptures that are placed on the grounds are quite large, like this 8′ tall mask beautifully sited on the edge of the pond.
From across the way, the “mask”, in the distance, is framed by this piece.
I thought that the siting for this trio was perfect. I understand that the crops in the distance are rotated between bananas and sugar cane to keep yields high.
Another dramatic view was these two 12-15′ high wire pieces.
Thinking about that ficus plant you left in your office at the beginning of the pandemic? I expect that it didn’t fare as well as this one.
And, speaking of “house plants gone wild”, how about this strangling fig? It’s certainly living up to it’s name.
A display garden, with sugar cane and an old narrow gauge steam engine once used to move freshly cut cane to the factory. It’s always a rush to process cane as it begins to ferment within hours of being cut.
And, speaking of the factory, this equipment has been long abandoned with production now in nearby modern buildings. The old steam machinery and distillery are still open for viewing. These gears once connected a huge steam engine to the cane crushers and other equipment connected by long belts that snaked through the building.
A riot of pipes and pulleys.
The huge fermentation vats, each a dozen feet across.
Below the building displaying the old factory equipment, a tasting room. Try all you like at no charge but be prepared to elbow your way to the bar. Not a lot of social distancing.
And some huge warehouses with giant wood barrels for the early aging of the rum. I have no idea how many barrels one of these holds but they were perhaps 20′ tall. That’s a lot of rum.
Later the rum is transferred into smaller barrels where the rum ages for years and sometimes decades.
A lot of rum being prepared for market.
As you can imagine, this sort of production was a source of great wealth and the Clement family was quite well off. This was the family home up until the middle of of the 20th century.
The place is a picture of elegant tropical living.
With beautiful plantings all around. Of course, their home was up-wind from the factory.
We purchased a good stash to share with friends. “would you care for a tot of rum, imported to the US aboard SV Pandora?”
Well maintained cement pathways winding through a variety of bananas from all over.
The views were really beautiful and very lush.
On the nearby hillside, many, many bananas.
Bananas that set their fruit in a remarkable spiral.
I was struck by the way the fruit grew on this variety. Sort of like an upside down layer cake.
Many bananas that are only eaten cooked. Actually, that’s the bulk of the types. Not sweet. The type we see in our markets is plantain. They look like the sweet ones but taste like a raw potato unless cooked.
The type that is most commonly grown and the vast bulk sold worldwide are Cavendish. They are actually clones, all genetically identical and set fruit asexually meaning that they do not need to be pollinated and never develop seeds.
Along with the Marigot Bay Resort, we are looking forward to touring St Lucia and again visiting a restaurant that has arguably among the best views anywhere.
It overlooks the Pitons, long extinct volcanic cones that rise up dramatically, dominating the landscape.
It’s been great visiting Martinique but it’s time to move on.
To call it a “town” perhaps overstates things a bit. This is just about all of it and after dark, it’s even smaller when many of the businesses close.
Saturday, yesterday, is market day, with all sorts of vendors showing their wares.
The Caribbean is known as the “spice islands” and the vendors do not disappoint with a huge variety to choose from.
The diminutive scale of the town is not proportional to the size of the harbor, perhaps the largest anchorage in the Caribbean, about 1.5 miles long and a half mile wide. Without a panorama to show all the boats, perhaps a shot of the town dock gives a feel for how many boats there are. You can’t see the other side, but it’s just as packed. In the distance, part of the fleet, several hundred strong. I’d guess that this view is about 10% of the total.
Nearby, perhaps a 30 minute run in a dink at high speed, is La Marin, home to a huge marina with more than 1,000 slips. The number of charter boats is daunting.
Just one of many piers lined with dozens, no hundreds, of cats and monohulls, standing by and ready for you to jump on board and head out on holiday.
Don’t like the idea of a black umbrella in the tropical heat? There are other colors to choose from. Problem solved, or as some local T shirts advertise, “Pani Pwoblem”. I am trying to imagine what happens if the grill won’t light. “Roberto, just squirt more lighter fluid on those, sort of smoldering coals. ” Wooosh!!!! Run away! Run? On second thought, SWIM AWAYYYYY!
Anyway, St Anne is a nice place to hang out in a less commercial environment and yet still close enough to La Marin to be able to buy most anything you might need.
Note how they are steered. No fancy rudder, just an oar sticking way out the back. With all that sail way up in the bow, I expect that the boat has a lot of weather helm so having the long oar way out back will give it a lot of leverage.
Better yet, check out this brief video that gives a pretty good feel for how exciting the races are.And finally, to the topic of this post…
For now, we are making the best of what we have and are enjoying sharing video calls with family, especially our three grandchildren Tori, Rhette and Emme.
Our time in Fort de France was punctuated by constant rolling by passing ferries so it’s nice to be away from that.
A particular highlight of this area is that there are loads of turtles. Yesterday I was swimming under Pandora and saw one, perhaps 20′ in diameter, munching away on grass under the boat in about 15′ of water. I swam down and was able to touch, more like pet him on his/her shell. He didn’t seem to be particularly alarmed by my attention and slowly swam away. It was quite thrilling, I’ll admit.
There are also a number of pretty amazing boats here, including two restored French fishing boats. Biche, is the last surviving traditional tuna boat. She was brought back from an abandoned hulk a number of years ago when she was restored in France. She’s quite impressive with her unusual yawl rig.
We had seen her sailing in Les Saintes a few weeks ago.
She is accompanied by a smaller and not quite as well maintained cousin, on a nearby mooring.
Of course, Pandora looks ok herself, framed by trees on the beach.
There are a lot of folks snorkeling in the bay with dive boats heading out multiple times a day. Some are heading far afield with others just bringing folks to nearby rocky beaches. Yesterday, when I was talking photos of those two classics, I saw a group on the beach nearby, waving wildly to a dive boat and. A short time later a rescue chopper appeared.
They hovered over the beach and dropped two EMTs while an inflatable launch ran up on the beach at high speed, delivering a patient.
The chopper continued to circle around the area, kicking up sand and spray before landing in a nearby field.
The took the stricken swimmer up under some trees and for what seemed like way too long, they worked aggressively to revive him with a series of techs applying CPR.
Eventually, an ambulance arrived but there didn’t seem to be any urgency at that point to transport the patient to the hospital. I am guessing that the outcome wasn’t good.