On our way to St John today, from St Barts.
It’s a beautiful morning here in St Barts, home to the landed, glitterati, i.e.: Rich and beautiful or at least doing their best to act and look that way.
This afternoon we will leave to make the 120 mile overnight run to St John where we will be meeting up with the 20 or so boats that will be making their way home as part of the Salty Dawg Homeward Bound rally. The plan is for us to leave on or about May 10th for points north. You should check out the fleet tracking page at this link. Better yet, follow the link to Pandora’s Predict Wind tracking page to see where we are and the weather that’s in the area. You can see the entire season of our movement way back from when Pandora headed south last November. nd click on “Pandora SV”, the link to Pandora alone.
If you don’t like that one, try my Garmin Pandora only tracking page to see where we are at any time. However, the fleet page is more interesting and shows the current weather that we are experiencing, along with my speed.
Brenda and I visited St Barts on our way south our first time cruising the Caribbean in 2018 and we have not been back. The major reason, beyond the fact that we have been cruising the southern islands, is that it is very roily out in the anchorage so being here can be uncomfortable.
Craig and I did a run from Antigua to St Barts a few days ago, leaving at dawn to make the 80 mile run. The view of the sunrise to our stern was really breathtaking.
On this trip I decided to ask what it would cost to tie up on the dock in the inner harbor. I was shocked to learn that it was surprisingly cheap, something like $30/day. Perhaps it’s because it is late in the season as I know that it’s impossible to get in here during the holidays.
The two negatives are that they don’t have electric on the docks, and I guess that they assume that all those mega yachts have their own generators. And, the harbor itself has a bit of surge so Pandora is pulling on it’s dock lines most of the time as the water goes up and down a few inches. It took me more than a day to finally work out a way to calm the motion, but I finally did.
This is the view of the lighthouse up on the hill overlooking town from our cockpit. We walked up there yesterday but that story is a bit later in this post.
Anyway, she’s riding well now. To say that we are close to “town” doesn’t begin to describe it.
Just behind the dock is main street Gustavia, lined with every imaginable high end boutiques.
French cheeses and wines are abundant and fairly reasonably priced. The fresh produce in the market, literally 20 steps from our transom, is amazing.
And an endless number of high end restaurants, along with a few for those of us that “have to ask what it costs”, like me.
We hiked up, actually walked, up the road to the lighthouse that is visible from the town. The view of the harbor was really impressive. Pandora is on the dock to the left portion of the photo.
Here’s a closeup of where she is, the last boat on the string, near all the dinks.
We also spied the St Barts Yellow Submarine, a glass bottom boat that you can go out on to view the local reefs. I wonder where it was made. It looks like fun. Check out their webpage.
Once we were up at the lighthouse, we could look down toward the island airport and watch the crazy approach that planes have to make to land on what appears to be a remarkably short runway.
They zip overhead, so close you feel like you could reach up and touch them.
After clearing the ridge, or mountain, at the western end of the runway, they dive down the other side to land. The planes fly at treetop level over the ridge and then go into a steep dive. Yes, it’s that steep. Actually worse than this photo suggests.
And then, in seconds, are on the ground.
From up on the hill you can peek into the amazing homes that ring the harbor. How about this spot, with “his and hers” pools.
I looked in a real-estate office and, as expected, homes were listed for tens of millions. As you can imagine, the Russian Oligarchs are well represented here, or were before they had to flee due to sanctions.
This place is just dripping with money and in spite of the fact that the island is only 5 miles long, is packed with luxury cars of every description. The car rental agencies feature tricked out Mini Cooper convertibles, no economy cars for this crowd. I am particularly taken by the Moks, a sort of cross of a jeep and golf cart. They are everywhere.
Being here for a few days, tied up on the dock, so close to town and all the sights, has been a real treat. Hope that Brenda and I will be able to visit here sometime in the future.
I guess I’d better break now as it’s time for a croissant and to get ready to head out on our overnight this afternoon. The winds appear to be favorable and I hope we will have a good run.
We should arrive in St John around mid day tomorrow.
Wish us luck.



Fast forward a week and it’s still unpleasant with a major low heading east off of the coast. It is this sort of pattern that is the norm until things settle down in the late spring, think late May, early June. Sure, the wind direction NE of the Bahamas isn’t all that strong but it’s right out of the north. Not good at all for heading to the Chesapeake.
Sure, these two snapshots of the coming weather don’t tell the whole story but it’s clear that it’s way to early to try to “get there from here”.
It was awesome to be aboard such a spectacular yacht for three days of racing. The wind was forecast to be breezy and that’s exactly what we got.
Each day we had different colored shirts, including those donated by Carib beer. I love that brand and to have a bright yellow shirt and hat to match was great fun.
What a thrill to be aboard and underway.
The “crew” from Carib beer.
The crew thought nothing of climbing, no make that scampering, up the mast to untangle whatever.
To sail on Columbia in “sporty” conditions is nothing short of spectacular! Blasting along in 25-30kts of wind made for a pretty wet ride. At the end of this short video, watch someone be swept down the deck by a boarding wave. My primary job was to tail the port foremast runner. Split second timing was needed to secure the line during a tack. It took three of us to manage the lines. The next three images compliments of Ed Gifford, a great guy, who was onboard as one of the photographers.
This is what happens if you get the timing off, heading to the leeward rail too early. When we were preparing to tack, the three of us would get into position just before the tack. The captain would bear off a bit to gain speed and nd blue water piled up over the rail. I was swept off of my feet once before I learned better. Sometimes, it wasn’t possible to stay out of the maelstrom.
One of the other visiting crew was swept down the side of the boat and while he stayed aboard, his pants came down, underwear and all, to his ankles. Good thing that he was able to keep them from being swept over the side. I doubt that he had a spare pair of shorts handy. “Excuse me, do you have a spare pair of drawers? Mine went over the side. I’d really rather you didn’t stare, or laugh, thankyou very much.”
When I saw these waves sweep the decks, I could only imagine what it must have been like to be in the North Atlantic in the winter fishing for cod when boats like Columbia were the norm. These waves were pretty big and it was just a lovely day for sailing. Imagine a storm…
With my birthday coming up soon, Brenda insisted that I get one too. This photo is probably the coolest that I will ever look. As much as I try, I am just not a particularly cool guy.
It is a really spectacular piece.
The regatta was put on by the Antigua Yacht Club. They are very supportive of the Salty Dawg Rally and are the center of the sailing community in Antigua.
Of course, where there is Carib beer, there are Carib girls.
And a lot of spectacular yachts including Aquijo. She is huge, at nearly 300′ long and billed as the world’s largest performance sailing yacht.
Columbia is less than half of her length and is still a really huge yacht herself. Yes, I realize it’s tough to see so here’s a closeup.
Everything about her is enormous. Note the size of the main boom with a member of the crew walking along the top
And, she is as shiny as she is huge.
Of course, what would a visit to Antigua be without spending time with our friends at the Antigua and Barbuda Royal Naval Tot Club, and we did just that. Of course, we had some “Tots” on the lawn in Nelson’s Dockyard.
And even a Tot aboard the lovely 110′ schooner Aschanti IV.
Members of the Tot Club, including the owner of Ashanti IV, can fly the official burgee of the club, the White Pennant.
I have been saying for years that Antigua is the best place to begin and end the cruising season and being back here, our last stop before I begin running Pandora north and home. We decided to treat ourselves to a few days on the docks in Nelson’s Dockyard, a wonderful end to a great season of sailing in the Caribbean.
So, here I am, finishing up on what is likely my last post before heading home to the US until I return in a few weeks to begin my run home.
As Pandora cuts through the waves, we scare up a lot of flying fish and the seabirds have learned to fly over the waves just in front of our bow to catch the fish that jump out of the water, as they scurry out of our way. This is a brown booby, an impressive bird that lives just about all of it’s life offshore, only going to land to lay eggs.
This may be another shot of a booby but I am not sure. I could not find a photo that matched but I think it’s another species.
We also passed a large school of very enthusiastic dolphins that leapt from the water, but they are notoriously difficult to photograph. Sorry, no images.
And, speaking of schooners. Ashanti, at over 100′ long, is a beauty and I was aboard her as well back in 2018 for a
It is rare to see so many wonderful boats in one place and the Classics is one that draws them. I walked the docks today for a gander.
The yachts that pack the marina are certainly not all classics and there are quite a few that are so huge that they dwarf even the biggest sailboats. One of the largest is the Mayan Queen at 306′ long. Her “beach club”, as the sunning area on the stern of yachts is referred to, gives a good feel for her scale. Imagine how large the interior space is?
It is fitting that this one is called Alpha Nero, as the is “alpha” in every way and no slouch at 270′. She is reported to belong to a Russian. Not surprisingly, nearly all of the yachts owned by Russians have fled the area as of weeks ago as sanctions have been levied on many of them in reprisal for the invasion of Ukraine.
An anchor and chain is a huge weight on a boat and one way to address this is to store your yacht’s anchor on a tender. This boat is designed to carry the anchor for a maxi race boat. They deploy the anchor and pass the chain to the “mother ship”.
And, they won’t have to wait long for the anchor to be delivered with over 1,000 hp. Yup, another Russian owns this boat. The boat that they tender is Scorpios, a 125′ racing yacht, one of the fastest in the world, launched in 2021. Impressive graphics.

She belongs to Limitless, which is what your bank account would need to look like if you owned a yacht like this. She is 315′ long, again, huge. Her owner is Leslie Wexner, the founder of The Limited. He acquired a number of other iconic brands including Abercrombie and Fitch and Victoria’s Secret. Note the open area on the starboard quarter. That is the “garage” for the tender pictured above.
A huge amount of work goes into keeping a yacht in, well, “yachting trim”. These guys were washing the side of a huge sailing yacht today. This tender carries it’s own water supply, kept full from the dock by a large hose. I guess that by carrying their own water they can have an adequate supply even if the pressure from shore isn’t enough to spray high on the hull. Why didn’t I think of that?
And, with a large yacht, you need large fenders, and lots of them. Notice the ones laying sideways on the dock. A rigger is working on one of their forestays and roller furler that is really, really long.
Most of the yachts here have been built fairly recently but not this beauty, Talitha, 271′ long, built in 1930 for the founder of Packard Cars. She is currently owned Mark Getty, the son of JP Getty. Interestingly, Mark Getty founded Getty Images, a clearinghouse for professional photographs used worldwide. It is clear that Mark has fabulous taste. Boy, would I love to get aboard her for a tour.
Ok, one more photo of a sailing yacht that is a big contrast to all the ladies that are in town for the Classic Yacht Regatta. She is the maxi racer named “Controlling The Animal, L4”, a mouthful of a name, launched in 2021. She is one of the fastest racing yachts in the world and she really looks the part.
It’s great to be back in Antigua again, where I made landfall back in November. There is no shortage of magnificent yachts to look at, that’s for sure.
Tonight Brenda and I will be attending a meeting of the Tot Club and it will be fun to reconnect with friends. Perhaps I can get a replacement membership card to put in my new wallet, when I finally get it. Remember that lost wallet, the one I lost when I was in Martinique? So far, nobody has tried to use any of the credit cards that I lost. Fingers crossed that they won’t…
It was wonderful to watch the fiery sunsets every evening.
And see the colors change with the minutes. It’s amazing how quickly it gets dark every night.
Yesterday, Brenda and I sailed less than ten miles north from Marigot to Rodney Bay where we went into yet another marina to spend two days with our friends Bill and Maureen of Kalunamoo, marking the beginning of our run north and the beginning of the end of our season in the Caribbean. The marina staff was nice enough to put us next to each other on the dock.
You may recall that Bill and Maureen were our mentors back in 2012 when we made our first trip down the ICW on our way to the Bahamas. They proceeded us in the Caribbean by a few years, but ultimately we followed them again, so here we are.
As the wind is nearly always from the east, we have spent the entire season as we have headed south on a port tack and now that we are turning to the north, we will be on a starboard tack. This will also be the case for the 200 mile from Antigua to the USVI where I will join the Homeward Bound Rally in May.
If you prefer a small plunge pool with a water feature, this is for you.
They also have a steam room so you can get all hot and then jump into the nearby pool. And, all of this is available to folks on the docks and moorings. Such a deal.
I understand that the venting steam is a near permanent fixture of the area.
The island has been volcanically active for millions of years. In past millenniums, violently so as evidenced by the pitons, the cones of long extinct volcanos. These formations are all that is left after the softer outer parts of the structure weathered away and left the hard igneous rock. This view from an overlook along the winding, switchback road.
Of course, what’s an overlook without a couples photo?
We visited a chocolate factory and store. What a variety, including chocolate infused gin. And Brenda, being a gin girl, had to get a bottle.
The product displays were in very cleverly modified steel shipping containers. Below, in their restaurant, we had coffee and a snack.
Later, we had lunch at
The view of the few yachts on moorings, in more than 100′ of water, far below.
Zoom in on the one big yacht and you can see that it is Excellence, owned by an American, Herb Chambers. He owns a slew of automobile dealerships in the North East, US.
She is a spectacular yacht, one of two that he owns. This one was built in Germany a few years ago.
Brenda and Stephanie enjoy each other’s company.
Just down stream from the falls are a series of mineral bath pools. We all donned bathing suits and enjoyed time soaking. It was nice to be there alone as the crowds in past visits were pretty large. Interestingly, the water in the pool was clear during this visit and last time, a coco brown.
So ends the southbound journey of Pandora for this season. Even though we are thousands of miles from home, it still feels like the end.
So much for that, it’s starboard tack from now on. Well, mostly…