Who owns who?
So, here I go again and Pandora is out of the water, for the second time this season. This time because of a leak in a rubber gasket on the bow thruster that keeps the sea out of the thruster locker. It is a flexible boot that allows the unit to pivot up and down, as it’s retractable. It’s acutally a pretty neat thruster as it isn’t like most small boat thrusters that are a hole in the hull crosswise at the bow. It pulls up flush to the hull so there is no effect on the speed of the boat.
Sometimes I wonder if I really own Pandora or if she owns me. Over the last few months I have worked hard to get her ready for the run to Hampton and then on to Antigua along with the rest of the fleet in the Salty Dawg Caribbean Rally and as hard as I try, she always has the last word.
I wrote earlier in the season about a problem with the shaft coupling failing as I headed up the CT River and home, haul #1, and how lucky I was that it had not happened any earlier in the 1,500 mile run home. I am sure that I do have a guardian angel watching out for me, that’s for sure.
In this case, a leak in the bow, discovered here in the comfort of the CT River, suggests that my Angel is still with me. I shudder to think about a leak 500 miles from land. Yes, good but, as always, a good amount of “boat dollars” to set things right.
Well, Pandora is now on the hard. The good news is that she now has a clean bottom and the problem has been solved with the installation of a new boot.
The bow thruster is a particularly finiky piece of equipment that has cost me thousands over the years. When it works, it’s worth it’s weight in gold as loosing control of the boat in close quarters can lead to expensive scratch repairs. And, it’s a very heavy piece of kit jammed into a very cramped place up in the bow, let me tell you. This is the third time that I have had problems with the unit, the first time when she was new to us. In that case, I discovered that the unit had been damaged by water before we purchased her back in 2015. That was a painful “upgrade” if you could call it that.
It is pretty neat. See this video of how she operates.
So, here we are on a similar repair path years later when a humble rubber part, lovingly called a “bellows” has developed a leak. Fortunately, when I had the unit serviced in 2015, I also made a point of purchasing what might be the last bellows avaiable anywhere in the US, knowing that it would eventually fail.
Well, it failed, started leaking, and now Pandora is back on the hard.
However, this time I was able to do the repairs myself. Unlike the last time, when parts were frozen with corrosion, getting the unit apart this time was a fairly simple, if day long job.
I should note that while getting her hauled in the past, in the summer or early fall, was a simple affair, it has become a lot more difficult, and expensive as Safe Harbor has been buying up so many of the marinas around the area so they know that they don’t have to be accomodating. What used to be a fairly informal and competitive marina environment, the care and feeding of boats is now a lot more difficult.
In my case, I have been hauling Pandora for seasonal maintenance every summer for a decade at a nearby yard. Now that Safe Harbor has purchased the yard, they are a lot less flexible for anyone that does not store with them year round. This yard, now with a new manager, said that they are too busy with winter storage to haul Pandora for a two week stay. Sure, they will haul her for a few days but two weeks? No way. Sorry, go somewhere else!
There had been a missunderstaning when I scheduled the haul a few weeks ago so when I showed up and said that I’d need her out for about two weeks, they declined and told me to just go away. No credit for being a customer for a decade. Nice to have so much business…
This experience is not unique among yards owned by Safe Harbor, as a friend of mine that has rented a mooring in Wickford RI for a decade, from what is now a Safe Harbor yard, was told that he could no longer keep his boat there unless he was a year round customer. No seasonal mooring rentals any longer.
Sure, if they can enforce these new rules, good for them, but once business goes through a down cycle I expect that they will find that they may regret their arrogance.
Anyway, I am now hauled out at a “non-Safe Harbor” yard and it was delightfull to be treated like a customer and not like one of the “unwashed” masses or in this case, “un-hauled”.
Access to the thruster through the anchor locker and, under that, through yet another hatch. 
It is a very tight squeeze.
I fit, barely. Not a great place to spend two full days, one taking the unit out and the other, back in.

I had fully expected to spend days or weeks getting frozen parts out but this time it was, much to my surprise, a breeze with no parts frozen in place. 
That was a huge departure from my experience when I purchased Pandora. Shortly after the purchase I discovered that thruster wasn’t working properly due to neglect by the prior owner. I learned that the compartment had flooded a number of times, causing a good deal of corrosion. That fix was very painful and more than a few “boat dollars”.
What clued me recently that there was a problem was that when the unit was deployed, I heard some sort of “water” sound. This happened earlier in the season but didn’t think much about it until a few weeks ago when I noticed that the compartment bilge pump was running. Oops, that gave me a clue that something was amis. It was this part, a rubber bellows that the shaft for the thruster goes through and allows it to retract and remain, until now, watertight. It had developed a small crack. 
The bellows is the proverbial “weak link” in the system and it’s a little scary that this fragile piece is all that is keeping water out of the thruster compartment.
This shows the little crack. Yes, little but big in effect at letting the sea enter where it doesn’t belong.
The folks from New England Bow Thruster, did a wonderful job of getting things back years ago but at great expense. This time, I did it, and it went pretty well, if I may say so. Sure, it took much of the day to get it apart, but nothing was stuck.
The biggest problem was finding the spare bellows that I had purchased a few years ago, in anticipation of a required replacement at some point. I searched the entire boat, becoming more frantic as my options for finding it became more and remote.
Finally, I decided to go home for lunch. As I drove home it suddenly dawned on me where it might be. Alas, there it was in a box in the attic. Hurrah!
So, here’s the unit, all finished and checked out.

For the entire summer I have been fully focused on getting Pandora ready for the run to Antigua, with a stop in Hampton VA along the way to participate in the Salty Dawg Rally to the Caribbean.
Alas, Pandora had her own ideas, and with a little help from my guardian angel, I had to rethink my plans and will now be departing from Essex, for a direct shot to Antigua. Leaving from this far north brings with it a whole different set of issues that I will address soon in a subsequent post.
For now, all I can say is that Pandora seems to be calling the shots and as much as I hated to change my plans at the last minute, leaving from here does make the preparation for the run a lot simpler.
Whatever happens next remains to be seen. But, one thing that is certain, is that Pandora is in charge and she has been pretty clear in pointing out “who owns who”.
As I write this I am heading to Annapolis for the Sailboat Show and the Salty Dawg rendezous dinner. It will be fun. For now, Pandora will be waiting for me. Amazing how big she looks, especially when compared to Brenda’s Mini.

A last note, it’s been a very long time since my last post and that’s, in large part, because WordPress, the program that I write this blog on, has gone through a big upgrade so I had to re-learn all the steps to posting as if I was starting from scratch. It was pretty intimidating, to be sure.
And, last, last… If you have subscribed to get notices when I post, you’ll have to do it again as all that was lost in a related software program. So, go to the upper right of this page and put in your email address. I hope that works. I guess we will see how that goes.
Signing off for now.



I had to move a huge amount of stuff to make room for it. Here’s the finished install. “Water heater? I don’t see no stinkin waterheater. ” Trust me, it’s somewhere back there.
I also finished the upgrade to the solar array. Last summer I learned that the old style panels, those that are more than a few years old, degrade at about 5% a year and the four original 80w panels that came with the boat when we purchased her were only putting out about half of their designed capacity. Las summer I upgraded the 80s four 15ow panels, leaving me with a single 290w panel over the davits that I had added when we purchased the boat.

In order to be sure that the three new panels are well secured to the davits, I had to fabricate a half dozen custom brackets made up of starboard and 1/4″ marine grade aluminum. They were a lot more complex than they look to get in place with properly drilled holes. This version on four corners.
And these in two spots on the aft end to support the middle of the panels. 
Our Starlink, a pretty power hungry unit that I power from a small 600w plug in inverter.
It is amazing how many appliances we have to plug in each day. In the last few years I have added a number of USB ports in the nav station.
And, I have gone out of my way to procure some low voltage lighting including this wonderful table lamp. I saw it noted as the “must have” lighting in fancy dining places in NYC as written up in the NY Times a year or so ago.
And, these nifty rechargeable lights that Brenda got for me. They can be made to dim and change color. I use them down below on passage for soft red night lighting in the galley. We also hang them in the cockpit when we head ashore so it’s easier to see in the cockpit when we return later. And, of course, rechargeable bluetooth speakers. We use these to listen to music and also to extend the sound from our laptop if we watch movies in the cockpit.
We also run or watermaker every other day for a few hours to fill the tanks and run the waterheater each morning for about 30 minutes to heat hot water, all off of the batteries.
You can
Her accommodations are amazing.
I’m guessing that a lot of Margaritas were served in her cockpit.
This is a walk-thru of a sister ship of Buffett’s plane. It’s a remarkable “yacht” or “camper” as it’s described in the video. Enjoy.
His last boat, built in 2019 was also blue, appropriately names Last Mango. is blue as well, like his sailboat “Drifter:. Here’s Last Mango, Jimmy Buffett’s last boat.I have no idea if Pandora will be our last boat but this coming season, as have noted in past posts, takes me and Brenda into our second decade of winter cruising.
We sailed the entire way to the mouth of Narraganset bay when the wind shifted to the north and on the nose as we made our way the last few miles to Newport harbor.
It is always a treat to see the grand hotels that overlook the Bay.
With all the investments going on with wind power, this brand new service ship is evidence of all the jobs that this emerging sector is bringing to the area. And, in the background a house perched on a rock that’s been there since the early 1900s. It’s called “Clingstone” as someone once remarked that it was “a peach of a house”. This “cottage” is 10,000 square feet with 23 rooms.
I love visiting Newport for all the wonderful boats and all it’s history. For decades Newport was the playground of the ultra rich in the days before income tax. Today, well, it’s still for the very well heeled. And, the center of all that is, arguably, Harbor Court, the Newport “clubhouse” for the New York Yacht Club, once the summer home of the Brown family, founders of Brown University.
In the evenings members line up on the bluff overlooking the bay for an “adult beverage”. A spectacular “bespoke” view, just like the clothing that they sport when they are “out to be seen”. It’s quite a spot.
Here, a view of the back of the clubhouse from the formal gardens.
Imagine having a pond of lotus behind your home. It’s always hard for me to understand how something that looks so tropical is hardy in our winters.
Each of these flowers is the size of a grapefruit.
And beautiful architecture isn’t limited to the huge mansions. As you walk on side streets one home is more beautiful than the next.
And what New England city is complete without a church with a white steeple.
Touristy of not, Ken and I enjoyed a lovely lunch overlooking the harbor in Bannister’s wharf, downtown. It was a busy place, even on a weekday.
And off to the side, Rumrunner II, built back in 1929 for some NJ mobsters to smuggle, well rum, among other illicit liquors. Now she is an elegant day boat that gives tours of the harbor. Your group is large? No problem,
Tennis anyone? If you follow the sport I am sure that you have visited the Tennis Hall of Fame. It’s an elegant place and a throwback to earlier times.
Makes me want a mint julip, whatever that is. Nice gardens.
Well, it’s nice to be home again but I have to admit that I am already thinking about when we can get back aboard Pandora. Still lots to do to prepare for her run to Antigua in November.
If you squinted really hard you probably figured it out. Cuttyhunk…
To the west, quite a show. This sort of display makes one feel insignificant. A good reminder for so many that think that they are very significant. However, I expect that most of them would miss the symbolism anyway. You know the type…
Once snuggly anchored, we had a lovely evening and the stars were amazing. Alas, no shooting stars spotted in spite of the meteor shower that was predicted. Probably because I didn’t stay up much past “cruisers midnight”, That’s 9:00 for you landlubbers.
This morning we walked up the road to the highest point on the island. The road is impressive, the best on the island. It was built by someone years ago to provide easy access to a planned mansion that was never built. The road remains and was recently repaved.
The view of the harbor where Pandora sits, snug on a mooring.
Just to prove that she’s there. A closeup.
A short time later this charming Marshall Catboat showed up. I mention this as Brenda used to come here on our own boat of the same design. I can’t believe that we came all this way with two little guys on such a small boat.
It was on one of those trips, and it was a rainy and nasty trip, that I left the three of them once we were anchored, all in various states of distress and suffering from severe cabin fever, and rowed up to a nearby 38′ yawl and said to the owner “would you be interested in selling your boat?” The answer, a curt “no” but I gave him my number anyway. The following spring she was ours. It proves that everything is for sale.
The same picnic table view today A bit sad, I’ll admit.
It was nice to show Ken around the island. We walked a long way to the western end of the island. There are many well groomed, well mostly well groomed trails to choose from. Interestingly, there are a number of gun emplacements and viewing platforms from WWII when they were used to keep an eye out for U Boats .
In the distance is where the Cuttyhunk Oyster Company does their magic. In the distance you can also see the Bartholomew Gosnold monument, marking the first European settlement on the island, perhaps in all of New England. On that exposed point, the settlers didn’t stay long.
If you looked very closely, you could see the floats for the cages that hold oysters. This shows it better. All those floats.
While we were there, one of the locals was harvesting some of their stock. In the evenings, about in time for “sundowners” they tour the harbor selling their oysters, shucked to order. Can you say “fresh”? We are planning to check some out this evening. I’ll bet they will be good with a G&T.
The island is dotted with lovely ponds.
I particularly liked this one. A well planted garden in itself.
Of course, what New England shoreside is complete without beach roses? Perhaps the last of the summer blooms.
One thing that has changed after all these years is the addition of a solar farm. This is one of 4 rows of panels in undulating rows, tucked in a low spot so as not to spoil the view. 
In spite of this impressive setup, their diesel generators were still humming away near the village. I guess all those cappuccino makers draw a lot of power.
And don’t forget the sort-of new Pandora but with the same timeless view from her bow.
So, here I am, Back in Cuttyhunk and a bittersweet cruise down memory lane.