One of the most common questions that we get from folks that are not familiar with the cruising lifestyle is “at night when you are on passage do you anchor so you can sleep?”  Answer: “No, not really.”

Oh, and the second question is often “so, when you arrive in the islands, what resort do you move into?”  Would not that be nice.  “Please, I would like a room with a water view.  Is it available for four months?”

Last night I did find myself feeling like we were anchored, hanging out, drifting actually, several hundred miles north of Bermuda, 500 miles from anything, waiting for a small, but nasty, low (storm) to move out of the area to our south, near Bermuda.

Chris Parker, who knows that it is in his best interest to keep his clients out of the nasty, or as he likes to call it “salty” stuff, has been very aggressive in telling us not to go below 37 degrees north until sometime late Sunday.   What he was trying to convey is that if we did not follow his advice, we would find ourselves in “extreme salty” conditions, something that I have no interest in.

A few boats went south of that line anyway (one didn’t get the memo it seems) and have found themselves with adverse winds of more than 30kts as well as a lovely (read: extreme salty) mix of squalls and thunderstorms.  

By lingering north of 37 degrees north latitude, we were in an area with almost no wind, think 5-10kts.  So, for much of the last 24 hours we have been moving east along the 37 degree boundary at around 3kts, with two thirds of that speed due to an easterly current. 

As of this morning, and it is 08:00 Sunday as I sit down to write this, we are about 80 miles north of where Chris wants us to be as of dusk this evening so we decided to turn on the engine and go slow, in the 5kt range. 

The water temperature is in the low 80s and while the evenings are cool, it is comfortable with a light sweater.  We do have a full enclosure so it keeps us snug, even if it is raining.  When we first left Essex, the water temperature was in the low 60s and it was very cold, even down below in the cabin, think 60.  Fortunately, I have a cabin heater that I can run from the engine when it is on and a diesel heater for when we are sailing. 

The comfortable cool conditions will not last much longer and as we get farther south it is going to be a lot hotter.  The biggest problem is that we have to keep the boat fully buttoned up to avoid getting water down below.  With the engine running, which is located under the galley, it gets pretty stuffy.  Right now, quite nice, short sleeve weather.

Conditions are overcast, compliments of the low south of us but somehow, boring or not, I need to include a photo, or two, I the post.  So, here is a view to the north, behind us.  See how calm…

Not a lot to look at. Grey to the southeast and REALLY grey to the SW where the low is located. Hope it gets better before we get there.

We are hopeful that the nasty stuff will have dissipated as we work our way south near Bermuda.  From that point, we should have light wind and a good deal of motoring before we hit the easterly trade winds. 

It is possible that by being delayed, we will be able to avoid some of the very low wind areas but we will have to see how that goes.  Some of the weather models suggest that there will be more wind and not dead calm.   One way or the other, we should be able to sail briskly in good trade winds for perhaps the last 500-600 miles.

I will admit that last night did feel like we were anchored in an exposed roadstead, made particularly uncomfortable as it was rolly and noisy but way better than close reaching into 30kts and big seas.  We did sleep well but kept watch even though we were not moving.  With the main up with two reefs, it did a good deal of slatting and jerking.   Not great. 

Well, I guess the answer to that common question is “Yes, we do anchor in the ocean at night but not the way you think.  No, it was more like drifting along with no place to go.” 

I thought that it might be interesting to put up parts of a daily notice I get from Shoreside support for the rally.  There is 24/7 coverage for all boats in the fleet.  Mindy, who wrote this, is in London in St Mary’s Docks for the winter.  She coordinates a team of individuals that volunteer to be on call, around the clock, until the last boat gets into port.  Every day she sends out a notice of what’s going on and who might have issues.  We also have an Emergency Response Team (ERT) that helps boats with issues, mechanical and otherwise. 

So, here’s what came out last night…

We had 4 departures today, 5 diversions, and lots of issues. Dune Buggy has returned to Hampton due to the weather. I will give the 2 returned boats a day or two to rest before asking what their plans are. Other than those two returned boats, we have 2 boats in the Chesapeake and 1 in Florida who have not departed. 

We currently have 75 boats underway, a great deal of whom have erratic tracks as they try to keep themselves north of the weather. Some are so close together I imagine they feel like they are in a flotilla this year; hopefully they are having a good time. It has not been a good time for the handful of boats who ended up in large seas and unsettled conditions further south. In addition to our weather diverted boats in Bermuda, we have several new arrivals in NC & SC, and 2 repair diverted boats in NC (see issues and concerns section). We appear to have a few boats who might be diverting to points further south. 

Departures

• Incognito departed for Antiga
• Stella departed Hampton for Antigua
• Alacrity departed Hampton for Marsh Harbour
• Serenity departed Hampton for Marsh Harbour

Diverted or Resumed Boats: 

• Life Above Zero, Oestara, and Raftan are diverting to Charleston.
• Wayfinder diverted to the Cape Fear River, NC
• Les Noble joined Summer Bird in Beaufort. Kiwi Dream is in Wanchese.
• Mystic, Nomad, Pangolin, and Mary Darline are waiting for weather in Bermuda. Pagolin & Mary Darline are thinking about departing Monday. I haven’t heard back from Mystic or Nomad. 

Arrivals at Destination:

None

Boats with Concerns, or Issues:

• Cinchona (Bahamas, offshore route) has lost their steering and is using an emergency tiller. They are also having furling problems with their mainsail. They said they did not currently require assistance and will try to make repairs when the weather calms down. Chris Parker is aware of their problems and they have corresponded with the Emergency Response Team (ERT).
• Editor:  Steering problems come up every year and some decide just to continue on, with others turning back.  I have a windvane and a spare driver for my autopilot. I also have mine serviced by the manufacturer every few years.  I live in fear of loosing steering.  Of course, something else can also fail that I haven’t even thought of.
• Mor Childs Play (Antigua) requested some technical assistance with an intermittent autopilot problem. The ERT is working with them. 
• Carosy (Bahamas) is having tracking problems and has lost their topping lift. They have requested help from any Bahamas boats still in the US.
• Yesterday, Tim sent a weather warning message to several boats who had moved into Chris’ danger zone. Tranquility had not seen the forecast. Chris Parker worked with them and determined that although his emails were sent to the correct email address, they were not ending up in Tranquility’s inbox. This is a good reminder to me that not every boat is getting their weather even when they are being sent to the correct email.  
• Betwixt, Once, and Flash have lost their Starlink (maybe others as well) but they are still able to communicate and update tracking with other devices. Parallax’s inReach died and they will be updating their position manually. As usual, Tim and Allen continue to work with any boats who stop tracking or have communication issues, and advise them how to get their forecasts with alternate devices. 
• Kiwi Dream (Bahamas) is having major repair work done. He hopes to continue with the rally soon, but also recognizes that may not be possible.   
• Editor: A few days ago, Kiwi Dream tried to transit Oregon Inlet, a terrible inlet near Cape Hatteras, I guess to avoid bad weather.  They hit the bottom and sustained significant damage.  I can’t imagine what they were thinking as even local fishing boats have difficulty there. 
• Summer Bird (Bahamas) is in Beaufort for a generator repair. They hope to be ready to go on Monday afternoon, weather permitting. 
• Zephyr-McGuire (Antigua) has arrived in Portsmouth. They are interested in finding a Delivery Captain for December. If anyone has any good recommendations, please pass them along to me
• Editor: A day out of Newport, Zephyr’s new engine transmission failed.  It was a huge disappointment so they had to divert back to Newport for repairs that will likely take weeks.  They still want to head south so are considering hiring a captain and delivery crew to move the boat in December. 
• Dune Buggy (Antigua) did not like the weather and turned back. He has arrived in Hampton. I will follow up in a couple days about their plans.

At least all systems are still in order aboard Pandora and reading about all the issues that the fleet is encountering is one of the reasons that I am so cautious. 

Glad to be moving south again.  Hope that it does not get too nasty.  

Oh yeah, we will not be moving into a resort when we return to Pandora in mid-December.  That is a bit above my pay grade.

We are in our fourth day at sea and are only about a third of the way to Antigua and we are in a holding pattern.  I had hoped that the entire run would take about ten days but now it’s looking like it could be 12-13.  Not great.

Conditions were a bit sporty last night but not too bad with gusty winds going rapidly from 10kts to 20 and back again, hour after hour.  And, we had a 2kt current on our nose so progress was slow.

However, things have settled down now as we slowly sail east trying not to go too far before we head south again. 

The guys up in the cockpit enjoying a nice day and not trying to think too much about how much farther we still have to go.

The biggest problem is that there is a low forming to the south, between us and Bermuda that is expected to bring winds in the 30-40kt range with gusts in squalls to 50kts.  Not great and gusts at those levels can break stuff.

In order to avoid all of this, Chris said that we need to stay north of 37 degrees north until the front passes, perhaps sometime overnight on Sunday.  As it’s not even noon on Saturday and we are at that latitude, we decided just to sail east to kill time.

As we are already as far south as he recommends, while we wait for the front to pass, we have to sail perpendicular to our intended course and wait until things improve to the south.

We have been in a similar position over the years and a number of times over the years and delays where we sail east, instead of south, can add days to a trip.   Once we begin to head south again, there will be a few days of motoring and that’s slow too as I can’t really go much faster than 6kts without burning a lot of fuel. Sailing in good conditions are generally in the 8-9kt range, a lot faster than motoring.

The good news is that once we reach the easterly trades, perhaps 600 miles north of Antigua,  we should be able to cover a lot of ground with upwards of 20kts on the beam which may allow us to make nearly 200 miles a day.   On our run south last fall, we had a number of days where we came close to that distance so it might happen. 

So, here we are, jogging to the east, waiting for better conditions. 

Other than a frustrating delay, all remains good aboard Pandora, even if things are a bit trashed in her cabin. 

The US weather model, GFS, says that the low won’t clear out until early Monday morning while the European model says that things should clear up perhaps 12 hours sooner.   Chris often favors the Euro so fingers crossed.  He did say that he’d send out an update later today so we will see how things develop. It would be good to get moving in the right direction, sooner than later.

With Starlink, which is working pretty well, we can also download the models and see them ourselves.  Seeing the graphics does make it a lot easier to interpret what Chris is suggesting. 

Here’s what he said about the risk of being too far south, too soon.

“There is a large potential risk for vessels to lie S of 37N or 37-30N Sun5, and with favorable weather thereafter, no need to assume that risk.” 

I’m taking his advice.

Today’s sunrise, over a calm sea and us in the middle of the Gulf Stream was beautiful.

Matt is all better now.  Two days of not feeling particularly well but now back in the swing. 

He had been turning up his nose at most food choices and I was a little fearful that perhaps he was what we might call a “selective eater”.  Nope, not at all now that he is feeling his old self.  (not as old as me and Peter, BTW) It does seem that he is an omnivore with a preference for M&Ms and Kit Kats 🙂

Anyway, we crossed the Gulf Stream overnight and could hardly tell except that the water temperature abruptly went from the low 60s to the 80s.  When I crossed the Stream in the spring it was very bumpy with a 30-40 knot southerly wind with gusts to 50.  With less than ten knots of wind last night, not quite the same.

We turned on the engine yesterday at noon and here we are, more than 24 hours later and still motoring along.  Chris Parker had given us coordinates for a very narrow favorable part of an eddy that was supposed to give us a push of a few knots.  However, we did not find it and instead have a persistent 1-2kt current against us.

However, that is not so bad, setting aside the endless motoring and little to no wind, as there is expected to be an area to the south of us in a few days that will bring near gale force winds from the NE.  The wind direction is not expected to be a problem as it will have us on a broad reach, but strong winds 30-40kts and add in some squalls to 50kts and it’s something that we’d prefer to avoid. 

By getting near Bermuda a bit later will help us avoid those conditions, I hope.  I will say that the forecasts have been changing virtually every day but the expected winds between here in Antigua should be mostly favorable, at least when there is wind. 

As of now, we expect to be motoring off and on for at least an additional 40-50 hours with intervals of good sailing in between.  With some luck we will hit the easterly trade winds about 300-400 miles north of Antigua and they will, hopefully, be under 20kts on the beam.  Fingers crossed.

We do not expect to need a stop in Bermuda as we have plenty of fuel.  I really do not know exactly what my fuel burn rate is with the new prop, but I expect it to be a bit higher than with the last propeller. 

With an estimate of say, .8GPH, I should be able to get at least 220 hours of motoring out of 180 gallons of fuel and the most motoring I have ever done on this run was 110 hours and that was on a trip with a lot more light air and dead zones than this run is expected to have. 

So far, I have motored a lot but I have only gone less than 300 miles and there is still a lot more distance to cover. 

Of course, forecasts change and perhaps this one will as the models don’t agree anyway. Key to keep our options open and not go to fast. What will happen? Time will tell…

However, I am a card-carrying member of the “cup is half full club”, so it’s going to be just fine. 

Perhaps it is too soon to say that we will have an uneventful trip, but it is day three and all is well with Pandora and crew.

It’s Thursday afternoon and we are nearly 200 miles into our trip.  That sounds like a long way but when you consider that the entire trip, not counting adverse currents that will slow us down, is about 1,550 miles. we are barely into it.

Put it another way and we are less than 15% of the way to Antigua.  To look at the chart, the distance we have covered is painfully small, considering how much lays ahead of us.

We left the Essex Yacht Club at 09:00 yesterday and made our way down the 6 miles to the river mouth and into Long Island Sound.  It was a dreary morning, cloudy with a light mist.

As we passed out of The Sound and rounded Montauk light.  The wind picked up from the ENE, putting us on a deep broad reach in 20-25kts.  That point of sail is not very comfortable and after a few hours Matt was feeling pretty uncomfortable and ended up “feeding the fish” more than a few times. 

It wasn’t until about 04:00 today that he was able to hold down something so that he could take a Stugeron, for the nausea, which seemed to work pretty well for him. 

Here he is, lounging and reading a book. 

A few hours ago we turned on the engine and it looks like we will be motoring until sometime tomorrow.  The computer weather app suggests that we will end up motoring about 2.5 days out of the 10 so days or so that it should take us to make the run to Antigua.  That’s about right as I have taken as little as 10 days and as much as 13 to do the southbound run.

Peter is on watch now and dressed for the chilly temps. 

It will be quite chilly, until we reach the Gulf Stream, with 80 degree water.  To keep the chill at bay, I cranked up the diesel heater.  It worked well and kept the chill off.   The water north of the GS is about 60 and the transition from cold to tropical is quite abrupt.

For the rest of the run we expect to have wind peaking in the high 20s to low 30s and also periods of no wind.   Overall, I expect that we will likely motor some 75 hours, about what I would expect for this run.   The good news is that we are hopeful that we will be able to head in mostly a straight line, nearly due south so not a lot of meandering around, I hope.

This is the first run where I have had Starlink when the service had been well worked out.  On the run north last spring, it was all new and the usage plans were not well defined.  For the run north, I signed up for a maritime plan at a cost of $250/month for not a lot of data and after that $2GB.  I didn’t really understand the plan and ended up using up all my data and then some, racking up a $350 bill for the month.   I now understand that I don’t have to change to a maritime plan and can just opt in for the $2GB on top of my normal $150/month mobile plan.  We will see how that works out.

Yesterday when we were still fairly close to land, the normal plan was working fine but earlier this morning, when I was on my 04:00 to 08:00 watch, I wanted to “toggle” on the $2GB ocean option but could not identify how to do it on the mobile app.  After about 2 hours of messing around, Matt suggested that I try going to the Starlink website on my browser and see if I could make the change there.  While the internet was blocked, the Starlink website itself was not, and we were in business.

The unit is still slow to acquire satellites but is working much better than last spring.  I understand that Starlink has modified the software so that the RV unit that I have, as opposed to the Maritime unit that uses twice the power, works better now on the ocean and “in motion”.

We will see how that goes for the rest of the trip but putting up this post is evidence that the unit is working.  What I don’t know yet, is how far that $2/GB will go and what my bill this month will end up being.  Details to come on that front.

It’s been pretty uneventful with the exception of it being quite rolly with large swells along with a number of mild squalls last night with heavy rain.   I am expecting that the next day or so of motoring will end when the wind picks up later tomorrow, into the 20s. 

So, one day into our run and not a lot to report.  Let’s hope that continues.

At the very least, we left, finally…

It’s October 31st and the weather for tomorrow, the first of November, our nominal departure date, bound for Antigua, is expected to be favorable for a departure. Well, if you discount the possible hurricane that may spool up in the Gulf of Mexico next week make us think twice about heading out. We will know for sure what the plans are this evening when we get a final briefing from our weather router, Chris Parker.

Pandora is ready to go and as much as I am bummed not to be in Hampton with most of the boats in the Salty Dawg Caribbean Rally, it is very nice having her near me here in CT. She is at the Essex Yacht Club dock, where I have been working on her for the last week or so, bringing stuff aboard and taking stuff off that has accumulated over the years and is probably no longer needed. The weather on Saturday was amazing, the temperature was nearly 80 and sunny. Not so much for the last few days when the temperatures plummeted into the 40s with rain.

In case you are wondering, the white stuff on the lawn isn’t snow although today, it is cold and but not cold enough to snow. Nope, those are white rose petals from a wedding held there a few days ago.

There’s not a lot going on around her and most of the moorings in the harbor are now vacant.

Much of last week was consumed by last minute items, moving stuff aboard, removing stuff that we don’t expect to need this season. I was also looking for a persistent leak and removed forward hatch and re-bedding it, with the hope of stopping an illusive dripping down the cabin side when the going gets sporty. Alas, after removing it and cleaning up all the old adhesive caulk, I could not find any evidence of moisture. Big hole in the foredeck with the hatch removed. I heard that a large catamaran sunk last week when two of her hatches failed off of Cape Hatteras. I can imagine that a boat would sink PDQ if a hole opened up on this scale.

After hours of removal, prep and reassembly, I realized that this wasn’t the source of the leak and finally found it in a nearby turning block for the jib. I am doubtful that I caught the only remaining leak but hope that I’m getting close. When I purchased the boat the seller told me of “THE leak”, the only one on the boat. HA! Seven years later, I am still identifying new leaks. I do put a lot of miles on Pandora each season so things loosen up. I expect that he wasn’t aware of some of the leaks as they only come to light when the going really gets sporty. Not sure I will ever completely conquer the leaks but I am pretty close, I hope, and probably more on top of the problem than most owners.

Another thing that I have been thinking about is Starlink and how that technology has changed the cruising game. Some years ago I was on a delivery of a large yacht from The Hamptons to Ft Lauderdale and was blown away to find that the yacht had broadband on board. I had a blast putting up posts with photos and never imagined that one day that would be possible aboard Pandora. However, that system cost upwards of $5,000 a month, certainly above my paygrade.

Well, now with Starlink, we have a “sort of” affordable option at $150/month and $2GB for data when underway at sea. Yes, it does add up but the service is AWESOME! and Pandora, along with just about every other boat in the rally, has Starlink aboard. This system, developed by Elon Musk, offers relatively low cost broadband and it is generally fast, and often faster than our cable service at home.

I first heard about the system last October when a boat in the rally joined a webinar from offshore, complete with high quality video. I didn’t think much about it until I was in Antigua a few weeks later and saw one of the antennas on a friend’s boat. I just had to have one and found myself as one of the “early adopters.” I was able to get a fellow Dawg to deliver one in their luggage from the US.

Here we are a year later and nearly every boat in the rally has the service. I still have the older style RV antenna and hope that it will work better this fall than it did on my way north last spring when I had trouble keeping a signal.

I have heard that the RV version that I have has better reception now as the software has been improved. I had the opportunity to upgrade to a maritime dish but the power consumption was twice as much and the unit is twice the size of what I have now. And, rumor has it that there will be a more efficient antenna out soon that isn’t a lot larger than the one I have.

Here’s the antenna mounted aft, adjacent to my solar panels.

Perhaps a better view of how it is situated aft to port.

So, we will have to see how well the service works on this run. Fingers crossed as I have not activated my Iridium Go, as that service costs about as much and is REALLY SLOW.

Well, hopefully, tomorrow, Wednesday morning, we will head out, bound for Antigua. It is possible that we will head for Bermuda in case we need to stop and wait for better conditions.

I’ll know more this evening when we get our weather briefing.

You can follow the fleet at this link, compliments of Salty Dawg and Predict Wind, and see the more than 90 boats that will be making their way south to either Antigua or The Bahamas, departing from Hampton VA and Newport, RI and of course, Pandora from Essex. Note that a number of boats have already left and there’s plenty to follow.