As we approached land after our run from the Azores, I was putting my thoughts down about a very difficult night that we had when the wind was so much stronger than the forecast suggested. I had roughed out the part of the post that follows below and had set it aside to focus on what laid before us our final approach to Gibraltar.
For months I have have been very focused on the orca risk and was terribly disappointed that the acoustic pinger I had ordered from Germany had been delayed and I was forced to depart without it.
Along with any possible mitigation of the risk of attack that the unit promised, I also studied www.orcas.pt to see what track to take to minimize risk. I had decided to go toward Morocco as there had only been a single attack in that area over the last few weeks verses more farther north along the Portuguese coast as the orcas had mostly migrated there, following the tuna that they hunt.
Well, I was wrong and we were hit, in a big way. But, before I get into that, and there is plenty to tell, some highlights from that nasty weather we encountered.
After a week on passage, we sighted land, Morocco off of the starboard bow. Not much to look at…
Land ho!
Seeing land for the first time in a week and after 1,000 miles of ocean sailing was a big deal and we were excited. Only a few more miles to go and I will have completed my transatlantic passage aboard Pandora that began in early April when I left Trinidad.
I mentioned in my last post, on our last night at sea we were anticipating wind in the low 20s with gusts to 30 yesterday afternoon and overnight, as we approached Gibraltar, about 150 miles out.
Forecasted conditions turned out to be a massive underestimate and while the models predicted one thing but we experienced something altogether different.
Instead of low 20s predicted, we experienced 30kts sustained with gusts to 35kts. I am not a good judge of waves but these were among the biggest that I have encountered, likely in the 10′ to 15′ range. Sorry, no photos as we were busy…
The only seas larger that I have experienced were surfing down 25’ rollers that I encountered on a passage to the BVI years ago from Beaufort NC but that is a story for another day.
We knew that strong winds were coming but clearly did not anticipate how bad it would get. In preparation we had put two reefs in the mainsail and as it got worse we rolled up the jib to half size, only the second time that I have done so but it did take some of the pressure off of the boat.
During the height of the winds, for 8 or more hours, the wind was directly on the beam and waves were slamming against the boat every few minutes. As the waves rolled by they bashed into our port side and tossed Pandora around violently. In spite of this were still moving along at 9+kts with bursts to over 10kts.
There was one particularly big wave that struck us around midnight, breaking completely over the boat from bow to stern. White water engulfed Pandora, driving her sideways with so much force that the leeward rail was driven under and water piled up into the cockpit. Fortunately, not a lot of water actually ended up aboard but it was very dramatic.
On the weather side (the side facing the waves) the wave broke with a roar, sending solid water and foam as high as the top of the dodger, breaking over the entire boat and cascading down the other side.
The front of the dodger took a solid hit and water sprayed right through the zipper and down below. It was amazing how much water can find it’s way through the teeth of a zipper if it hits hard enough. It made a bit of a mess in the galley.
With each hit water came up under the side curtains in the cockpit and even sprayed upwards onto the underside of the hard dodger, and with all that pressure, sprayed up 4’ in the air.
Down below things held up very well and the only real leak was around the deck mast boot which remains the one meaningful leak that I have not been able to solve.
As things began to settle down, I went below and when I woke up for my 03:00 watch, it was still windy but manageable and much calmer. The speed with which the wind abated was amazing. In a few hours from 30+ to high teens. The difference of 10kts may not sound like much but it is.
As I finished up this portion of the post, we were about 15 miles from entering the Strait of Gibraltar, a corridor that is busier than any place I have ever been. And most are upwards of 1,000′ long. Big boys…
Each ship bigger than the last.
Morocco to starboard.
To Port, Spain.
Our plan was to head into the marina which was fortunately open until 10:00.
I was proud to have sailed all the way across the Atlantic Ocean. My late dad remarked more than a decade ago, “wouldn’t it be nice to see Gibraltar from the deck of Pandora”. Here is that photo. Mission accomplished dad.
As we approached the straits of Gibraltar we were moving along nicely with a powerful inbound current, making better than 10kts over the bottom. All of a sudden, the wheel started spinning violently.
We had no idea what was happening and looking around, saw nothing. But, moments later we spied a huge orca under the stern and realized that he/she wasn’t alone. A pod of perhaps 4-5 of these huge animals had targeted Pandora.
Steve had the presence of mind to get out his camera and take a video. As they say “if an orca attacks a boat and there isn’t anyone to video tape it, did the attack happen? Well, we did record it and it did happen.
Unfortunately, this short video on YouTube can’t be embedded but you can click on this link to get a feel for at least part of what we experienced. It wasn’t fun to be attacked by orcas
It was terrifying and I had fears of the rudder post snapping or the bottom of the boat cracking open as has had on a number of other boats. Pandora’s rudder post is large, made of carbon fiber and it held up well. However, about half of the rudder was ripped off, left hanging by a slab of fiberglass fabric.
It wasn’t until we tied up in the marina and took a look under the boat that we realized the extent of the damage. The next morning I purchased an aggressive hand saw, put on a wetsuit, hooked up my hookah air compressor and spent an hour under the boat sawing through the remainder of the broken rudder.
After my work underwater was done. trying to make the best of a difficult situation.
Here is a shot of the hydrovane rudder. This is one tough piece of equipment and it was no match for a 9,000lb orca. Now bent 90 degrees.
Rudder rubble on the dock.
Fortunately, what is left can be pieced together to make a template for the new/repaired rudder which I will have fabricated in Almeria Spain, where Pandora will be hauled for the season in mid August. The damage is severe but there is enough rudder left to at least steer when the wind is light and we are under power so making the 150 mile run to Almeria should go well.
Today it is a beautiful day in Gibraltar, a spectacular place to visit but I will say that after ten years of anticipating being here, the experience in the wake of my orca encounter has taken some of the fun out of the visit.
Quite a backdrop to Pandora in the marina.
Gibraltar in the distance. Actually, not far at all.
And, of course, the Gibraltar courtesy flag which I will display proudly in my home office. And speaking of castles, I am going to take a cable car to the top of Gibraltar rock tomorrow morning so there will be more to tell about the fascinating history of this place.
It’s a bit tough to go east from here as the winds blow hard from the east much of the time but beginning on Sunday morning they subside so I can likely motor all of the 150 miles to Almeria in calm conditions. Sailing, with my “adjusted” rudder isn’t practical so motoring is a good option.
After we arrive in Almeria my crew will help me take sails off of the boat for service. After they depart, I should have a day or two to get the boats settled for storage so when Brenda arrives we will be free to have some fun and then drive to Madrid for a few days before we board a flight home.
After being aboard since early April, I am very much looking forward to saying good by to Pandora for a while. I am sure that after 7 months I will be more than ready to head back.
And, as far as my “orca encounter” goes, as they say, “experience it once, tell the story forever”. And I WILL for sure!
“Hey kids, remember when Grandpa’s boat was attacked by an orca”? “Tipi? What is an orca? Can we go outside and play ball.” Tipi is what my grandchildren call me. And no, I have no idea what it means but our oldest came up with the name.
Orca or not, Gibraltar is a beautiful place and it seems that orcas like it too.
Overall the passages from Trinidad to Gibraltar were pretty good overall. Well, that’s if you ignore getting my rudder ripped off by a couple of 9,000 lb brutes.
All I can say is “Dad, I made it to Gibraltar if a little bit worse for wear”.
And yes, orcas bite boats and unlucky me, they choose to bite Pandora.