Starlink. Too good to be true?
In mid January I wrote about my first exposure to Starlink as a source of affordable broadband internet on a boat.
At the time, we had just installed it aboard and were getting to know the unit. It was an amazing realization to have access to internet speeds that were higher than we get at home with fiber optic cables. In some ways the speed, price and ease of use seemed too good to be true. Follow this link to my first reaction.
So, here we are a month later and I have learned a lot about the system and what we might expect in the coming months.
As a refresher, there are three versions of Starlink, residential, mobile and maritime.
Residential is designed to be mounted on a home or other stationary object. The cost, in addition to the purchase of the dish, is a bit more than cable at $110 a month on an annual plan. In spite of being a little more expensive than traditional cable services, there is a waiting list for shipping because of such high interest.
The RV unit is what I ordered for Pandora, a system designed to use on a camper, for example, but not necessarily from a moving object. The unit itself cost $700 plus a service at $135 a month and you can cancel or restart the plan a month at a time. It’s really designed to be used in the country where you purchase it but we and many others have taken delivery in the US and are now using it on our boats here in the Caribbean. As a point of interest, there has been a lot of talk about what happens if you take delivery of a unit in the US and use it in the Caribbean as that is a totally different area and we are supposed to use it in the same continent where it is delivered. Well, I found out last night when I received a notice that my monthly fee was going to go up to $150/month. Still reasonable if a bit pricy. The reason for the price increase wasn’t clear and didn’t specifically note my location. I guess, details to come.
It’s worth noting that the “fine print” states that our access may be limited if we stray too far from home for too long. Fingers crossed on that point.
The third version and the most expensive is their Maritime version, designed for use on commercial vessels, mega yachts and cruise ships. The hardware costs several thousand and carries a monthly service plan of about $5,000.
I understand that the maritime version has advertised speeds of between 300 and 400 baud, hugely fast. Even on Pandora we have seen speeds upwards of 100 baud in an area that they identify as having modest coverage. Where we are, near the yellow arrow, shows as limited coverage.
This is a visual representation of what will be a galaxy of satellites to be launched in the coming years, in the thousands, many more than are up there now. It’s pretty amazing.
There are loads of YouTube videos on Starlink but this one is an excellent overview of the program and how it works. It also goes into other types of communication but if you want to see Starlink alone, go to about 9 minutes and 30 seconds in the video and start there. This video is an excellent explanation of what is “behind the curtain”. It’s remarkable that a private company, Musk, has accomplished something of this magnitude. After years of chasing wifi and dealing with crappy cell connections, Starlink just feels like a miracle.
And, sometimes miracles aren’t what they seem and when I ordered the RV version, designed to be used in the US from a van, and had it brought down to Antigua, I was fearful that Starlink would catch on and say “whoa!, that’s not what we sent you the unit for!”, and cut me off.
I still fear that will happen as they have a maritime version for marine use, even if it costs WAY more than I could ever afford. And, in the fine print that explains the terms of service for RV, it’s clear that we are not following the rules and I have been wondering if they might cut me off.
However, last night I received an email that alerted me to a price increase to $150/month, and thanking me for my support. I’ll admit that when I saw the email I was expecting something much worse.
So, is Starlink too good to be true? Time will tell if they restrict the RV version but for now it seems pretty awesome and I’ll keep my fingers crossed that the good times will continue to roll.
For the moment I still have the antenna mounted on the deck but when we are in a marina in St Lucia in March I’ll move it up onto the radar arch in a semi-permanent install and reconsider the best options when I get Pandora home next summer.
If beauty is as beauty does, than this is indeed a beautiful antenna.
Internet speeds on a boat faster than home? It’s here. Well, at least until Musk changes his mind…



Well, a few days ago when we tried to anchor in the harbor off of Fort de France to visit for Carnival, we were having a terrible time anchoring and after about 5 tries, accompanied by advice for perhaps a half dozen other cruisers, we finally were firmly hooked. However, in spite of our best efforts, we decided that we were just too close to another boat and decided to leave.
The town nearby is quaint if a bit deserted. We went ashore to have lunch and look around a bit. About the only action in town was a farmer’s market but there were not many places to eat.
A very pretty church, something that just about every village has here.
And some very nice French Colonial architecture.
Before we headed here we were in St Pierre, one of our favorite spots where we planned to spend a few days. Unfortunately, after the first night the anchorage became very rolly (what’s new?) and we all decided to head to Fort de France.
They have a very nice tasting room that has finally reopened after being closed for a few years because of the pandemic.
When our friends Peter and Jane join us in March, I expect that we will be visiting it again as it’s one of my favorite and not far from the harbor. If you are curious about this place and the history of the island and sugar,
Nowadays, the capital is Fort de France to the south.
It seemed like there were as many of us as plants to load so we formed a bucket brigade to get them on the truck.
Off we went. It was hot work but nice to help out.
On another day, three couples hired a driver to take us around the island. We visited a small local chocolate factory. These are the chocolate pods all piled up on the ground. Each pod contains many coco beans, each about the size of a large almond.
The pod, when mature, are about 8″ long. It’s amazing how tiny these pods begin, sprouting along a branch. They are solo and only about 1/8″ long.
Then they get big but aren’t harvested until they are ripe and yellow.
After the pods are opened and seeds removed, they are put in a box and covered with banana leaves to ferment for almost a week.
Then they are cleaned and spread to dry under cover.
There are a bunch of other steps that include roasting in special ovens.
Then they are crushed and the “hull” is separated from the good parts using air that blows off the hull and lets the heavier parts drop into a hopper.
Ultimately they are ground into a smooth paste over a period of days before being melted and poured into molds.
As you can imagine, this whole process smells fabulous so who can leave without buying some to take home?
And, a more native version of poinsettia, n0t the highly hybridized versions that we see in the US.
And no tropical garden is complete without orchids. This one looks like a phalaenopsis but I believe is a native orchid, perhaps oncidium.
Very showy flowers on a large bush.
So often looking like house plants that escaped.
And breadfruit. It is said that all the breadfruit trees in the new world are descended from those brought on the Bounty by Captain Cook.
The rest of the day was spent driving around with beautiful vistas around every bend in the road.
This gorge looked a bit intimidating with the gnarly roots of the trees snaking everywhere.
A must-stop place in Dominica is known as Red Rock. It’s an exposed outcropping of red sandstone, weathered over the years into something that looks more like dunes than rocks.
A pretty amazing place.
Just to prove were there.
We visited a place where the mostly dormant volcano vents gasses through the ground. The place, nestled in the jungle, stands out as a small area with nothing growing and a very strong smell of Sulphur. Leading down into the crater was lush with tree ferns, some 30′ tall all around.
They are just beautiful and only grow above a certain altitude.
The hills were carpeted with them.
Well, I guess I’ll leave it there for now and follow up with a post soon about Carnival but there is just so much that I can cram into a single post.
Most of the islands of the Caribbean saw a lot of action as the French and English worked to gain control, primarily to secure the sugar trade that made the islands so critical to commerce. While Dominica never saw any actual sea battles, the island changed hands between the French and English multiple times. It is now an independent nation as of the 70s.
Perhaps this photo will make it easier. She’s just to the right of center, forth boat in on the center string of moorings. The grey boat.
Our hike took us to the summit that was once a lookout for whomever was in charge at the time. The fort, Fort Shirley, overlooking the harbor, has been beautifully restored and now is used as a conference center.
Our walk took us past some old ruins of officer’s quarters and even a room that once was used to store cannon balls. Today the floor is still littered with small “grape shot” iron balls about 1.5′ in diameter. I was dying to take one, but didn’t.
The strangling fig tree on one of the walls really gave the place a wild vibe and a feel that would make Indiana Jones proud.
This 6″ to 8″ fungus looks a lot like coral but isn’t. Our guide William said that they called it “land coral”. I get it…
We saw plenty of hermit crabs and small lizards. This one was clinging to a branch and was about the size of a lemon.
Termite mounds were everywhere. This one, about 2′ tall. To me it says “do not disturb”.
I was struck by the symmetry of this delicate vine climbing a small tree.
Nearby, visiting for the day, was Sea Cloud, once the largest private yacht in the world when she was owned by Marjorie Merriweather Post, daughter of the founder of Postum Cereal that became General Mills. She was fabulously wealthy and owned her when she was married to her second husband E.F. Hutton. Among other homes, she also owned Mar-a-Lago, in Fl, home to “The Donald” these days.
She looks much the same as she did when private.
This short video gives a feel for just how opulent she is and some interesting views of the ship now juxtaposed against what she was like when she was a private yacht. Yesterday, while some in our group were gazing down into an active volcano, Brenda and I opted to go into town to get some produce at the Saturday market. Once a week vendors come from all over to show their wares
In addition to those on the streets with colorful umbrellas, there is a pavilion where many vendors set up on tables, overflowing with all sorts of fruit and vegetables.
There is also a place to purchase fresh fish. It’s a messy business and to see guys whacking away with machetes pretty much put Brenda off of seafood for the day. It was a noisy splattery business to be sure.
The fist was certainly fresh, having been caught that morning and unloaded less than 100′ from the market.
Right off the boat.
Nothing says bony to me like a needle fish.
This is a really beautiful place but never more beautiful than at sunset. This ship, a Danish training ship, was anchored behind us with the setting sun glistening on the hull a few days ago.
A short while later in the twilight, the sun sets quickly in the Caribbean, she looked different.
And yes, it’s as calm as it looks and that’s good. After a few weeks in rolly anchorages, it’s nice to be in the calm waters in the lee of Dominica.
First a swim and it will soon be time for sundowners.
A main street filled with places to eat. Nearly all of the vehicles on the island are golf carts and scooters.
And some very colorful homes. Love this one, pink with a lovely color coordinated Vespa scooter.
In spite of the lovely scenery, I’ll admit that it’s a bit rolly here with the constant ferry traffic from mainland Guadeloupe bringing French tourists on holiday. I understand that there are daily flights from Paris.
Instead of “you had to be here to know”, this rating system, like ratings for hurricanes and earthquakes, gives us something to compare our experiences to and make it understandable to those who weren’t there.
Not close enough to tell, you say? Now do you agree? Probably not.
I am fully focused on clouds at sunrise. No better way to start the day.
Or a bit later as the sun is higher.
Or in the middle of the day.
Or the plume of the active volcano on Montserrat as we sailed south to Guadeloupe last week.
Or the clouds rolling off of the mountaintops of Guadeloupe.
And absolutely nothing beats sundowners while watching the rise of a full moon which we enjoyed yesterday evening.
Rolling or not, and it was really rolly that first night here, it’s hard to imagine a place more beautiful to appreciate clouds than here in the Caribbean aboard Pandora.
It’s been nice to be back in Deshaies, having visited this tiny port on our every trip south. The village is very quaint. I suppose that “shabby chic” describes it pretty well.
Yesterday I went on a hike with Mark and the girls met us at a nearby beach for a late lunch.
Later we walked back to the boat. It was a very nice walk with huge trees lining the road.
The other day we went to the local botanical garden,
Palm fronds never disappoint.
This succulent was not as velvety and soft as it looked.
A tangle of palm berries.
I will never quite get used to seeing “house plants” that aren’t in a house.
These flowers look like little soldiers.
More soldiers.
The soft texture of cypress.
I love the koi. They are as big as they look, some 18″ long.
Every where I looked, beautiful textures.
And colors.
And so many plants that we think of as house plants growing outdoors and loving it.
I don’t know, just a dramatic pattern…
A beautiful giant fern.
A not so giant epiphytic fern.
Some that looked like they would be right at home in more arid places.
Just love these flowers.
I have a particularly soft spot in my heart for orchids and to see them growing on trees here is a treat.
And who doesn’t love flamingos?
Who you lookin at?
Texture in water or is it an aquatic Cousin It?
You don’t have to be green.
And speaking of standing at attention.
Some flowers don’t look anything like flowers.
And a view of Pandora in the harbor far below.
And what post is complete without clouds?
That look, upon closer inspection, like a baby duck reclining on the cloud bank. Get it, his head with feet to the left? Well, that’s what it looks like to me. Not buying it? Work with me on this.
Ok, anyway, I love clouds so perhaps yet another. Pretty dramatic day here in Deshaies, Guadeloupe.