A cruise down memory lane.
Yesterday we had a very long run from Sag Harbor to well, guess where we are?
If you squinted really hard you probably figured it out. Cuttyhunk…
The run from SAg Harbor took almost exactly 11 hours with perhaps about half to 2/3rds motoring the 70 miles. A long day but easy sailing.
We anchored in the outer harbor last night as it was getting dark and I saw no reason to come into the harbor so late and pay $55 for a mooring. As we rounded the point there was a very nasty line of thunderstorms to the north. Fortunately, they passed north and east of us. It looked very forbidding, never the less. A sort of “roll cloud” that often accompanies a line of thunderstorms.
To the west, quite a show. This sort of display makes one feel insignificant. A good reminder for so many that think that they are very significant. However, I expect that most of them would miss the symbolism anyway. You know the type…
Once snuggly anchored, we had a lovely evening and the stars were amazing. Alas, no shooting stars spotted in spite of the meteor shower that was predicted. Probably because I didn’t stay up much past “cruisers midnight”, That’s 9:00 for you landlubbers.
The good thing about going to bed with the birds is that you wake up with them too. This sunrise greeted me this morning at O-dark-30. What a view.
This morning we walked up the road to the highest point on the island. The road is impressive, the best on the island. It was built by someone years ago to provide easy access to a planned mansion that was never built. The road remains and was recently repaved.
The view of the harbor where Pandora sits, snug on a mooring.
Just to prove that she’s there. A closeup.
A short time later this charming Marshall Catboat showed up. I mention this as Brenda used to come here on our own boat of the same design. I can’t believe that we came all this way with two little guys on such a small boat.
It was on one of those trips, and it was a rainy and nasty trip, that I left the three of them once we were anchored, all in various states of distress and suffering from severe cabin fever, and rowed up to a nearby 38′ yawl and said to the owner “would you be interested in selling your boat?” The answer, a curt “no” but I gave him my number anyway. The following spring she was ours. It proves that everything is for sale.
Anyway, fast forward, many, many summers forward and here I am again, four boats later and 47′, up from 22′, and aboard Pandora. Life marches on.
And, speaking of change, it seems like yesterday that my dad, gone for so long now, came here with my two boys, Rob and Chris on my last Pandora in 2009 when we went out on a week long cruise. It remains one of my most cherished memories. This photo, taken at the top of the hill I visited this morning, of the four of us.
The same picnic table view today A bit sad, I’ll admit.
It was nice to show Ken around the island. We walked a long way to the western end of the island. There are many well groomed, well mostly well groomed trails to choose from. Interestingly, there are a number of gun emplacements and viewing platforms from WWII when they were used to keep an eye out for U Boats .
In the distance is where the Cuttyhunk Oyster Company does their magic. In the distance you can also see the Bartholomew Gosnold monument, marking the first European settlement on the island, perhaps in all of New England. On that exposed point, the settlers didn’t stay long. Check out this link to learn more about Cuttyhunk.
If you looked very closely, you could see the floats for the cages that hold oysters. This shows it better. All those floats.
While we were there, one of the locals was harvesting some of their stock. In the evenings, about in time for “sundowners” they tour the harbor selling their oysters, shucked to order. Can you say “fresh”? We are planning to check some out this evening. I’ll bet they will be good with a G&T.
The island is dotted with lovely ponds.
I particularly liked this one. A well planted garden in itself.
Of course, what New England shoreside is complete without beach roses? Perhaps the last of the summer blooms.
One thing that has changed after all these years is the addition of a solar farm. This is one of 4 rows of panels in undulating rows, tucked in a low spot so as not to spoil the view.
I was struck by the voltage that the array is rated for. Try 480V AC. “Warning, electrical shock hazard” No kidding!
In spite of this impressive setup, their diesel generators were still humming away near the village. I guess all those cappuccino makers draw a lot of power.
Along the way, this this beautiful old John Alden designed Malabar schooner built in, I believe, the 1920s. She is beautiful.
And don’t forget the sort-of new Pandora but with the same timeless view from her bow.
So, here I am, Back in Cuttyhunk and a bittersweet cruise down memory lane.
Off to Newport tomorrow for the grand finale of our week, a visit to the NY Yacht Club, Harbor Court.
I do miss Dad…



It was the first time I have left the River, and only the second time I’ve been off of the mooring since bringing Pandora back from the Caribbean in May.
The audience enjoyed the “show” and seemed to like the back and forth questions and shared experiences.
The next day a number of boats headed up to Hamburg Cove for a raftup. Most cruisers never raft, or tie up together, as most harbors are just not settled enough so this was a novel experience. When we were young and new to boating, Brenda and I rafted with friends nearly every weekend. Because of the great width of the two cats, the raft was nearly 100′ from end to end and required two moorings to hold the group.
Smile for the camera!
So, back to Ken and our first stop on our week out.
And speaking of well preserved “old stuff”, and I don’t just mean women of a certain age. The homes are amazing. I’ll bet that a paintjob on this home cost more than our car, no make that all the cars we have ever owned, combined.
In spite of all this, I do enjoy visiting here if for no other reason than people watching, each more put together than the last.
However, he’s not alone with boat that is a “severe” design. If Darth Vador went boat shopping, this one would surely catch his attention.
Well, at least before he looked 100′ back and saw another trailing in it’s wake.
Or, perhaps if he wanted to change his image. Perhaps white…
Don’t like edgy design? Perhaps this classic John Alden schooner.
Of this lovely Friendship sloop, the brand of that name made in New Zealand.
Goldfinch is aptly named as you’d have to have a few gold coins to purchase such a lovely “gentleman’s daysailor.
And speaking of coin. This chart from the Wall Street Journal today.
I’m thinkin that a measly $5M wouldn’t even keep someone out of the red for more than a week in these parts. Here the .1% is more like .001% and that might be understating things a lot.
And speaking of things spiraling out of control, how about this staircase in the Sag Harbor Whaling museum?
Ok, I mentioned Salty Dawg earlier in this post and one of the primary reasons that I decided to head over to Sag this weekend is because there is a benefit going on co-sponsored by the Antigua Tourist Bureau and I thought that it would be good to meet up with some of the folks visiting that I know from my time on the Island.
Including one from the Department of Tourism.
Well, I guess that about covers it for now as I have to get ready and put on my Antigua Yacht Club shirt and head to the fun ashore.
I have also spent a lot of time helping Brenda with some of her weaving projects and doing chores to help her prepare for some teaching in the fall.
If it looks complicated, that’s because it is. Over 1000 threads and that’s why Brenda was watching me to be certain that I didn’t mess things up. And, with that in mind, she wasn’t always smiling.
And, of course, working hard to be sure that there is a way for her to bring meaningful projects aboard Pandora for the winter.
The new panels just came today and when installed will be oriented fore and aft. The total width of the three panels will be about 4″ wider and the length, just under 6″ longer. With the new panels the array is huge relative to the space available when compared to what was possible just a few years ago. And with the overall increase in capacity, plus the output of the wind generator, it’s an amazing upgrade.
And pretty small compared to my dink, which is also small… Yup, my truck is clearly “horizontally challenged”. As an additional insult, Brenda refers to it, delivered with a sneer, as “your LITTLE truck”.
Here’s an idea! I’ll cover the tank…
Forward view.
If the shots suggest that the front and back are not symmetrical, that’s because they aren’t.
And, here is what the Cloud Appreciation Society had to say about “my cloud”.