Sail Pandora

>A visit to the Wooden Boat School

>Back in the late 70s, about the same time Brenda and I purchased our first boat, a guy named Jon Wilson started a little magazine Wooden Boat.  It came out 6 times a year and catered to those who owned and loved wooden boats.  At that time, wooden boats were really on the fringe and nothing like today where the most wealthy show off their good taste buy owning and sailing these works of art.

However in 1974 Wilson saw the future and started a magazine in what was an unlikely place, from a publishing point of view, in Brookin Maine.  However, from a subject standpoint, he couldn’t have picked a better place as Maine has become one of the most prolific places in the US to have wooden boat built, rebuilt or maintained.   From the very beginning, I became a subscriber, and still am, devouring each issue as I still feel that it’s one of the most interesting magazines.   After all of these years it still comes out 6 times a year but the business has grown in many impressive ways.

Wilson is no longer involved on a day to day basis with the business but he still owns it, I believe, and the publication is as successful as ever.  Fortunately, I don’t travel like I used to but the magazine is still readily available in airport newsstands, something that has always amazed me given the fact that the magazine caters to such a narrow interest group.  Or does it?  I did read once that Wooden Boat has the largest newsstand circulation of any boating publication and given it’s very high production values and beautiful photography, I am not surprised that someone would pick up a copy while waiting for a flight.  Perhaps it’s a love of beautiful things that drives so many open it’s pages.  Believe it or now, the magazine has 100,000 subscribers.  I assume that newsstand is in addition to that number.

The headquarters is located on an old estate on the water and out in front there is a great spot to anchor for a visit.  Over the years they have branched out into other related areas of business, most notably, the Wooden Boat School, and the Wooden Boat Show that is generally held at Mystic Seaport in Mystic CT each year.

The boat school is located on the headquarters grounds and is housed in what was once the stables for the estate.  Along with a very nice workshop/school is an area where the “disciples” can camp out while enrolled.  They also have moorings off of their dock for those who opt to stay on their boat in the harbor.

The facility for the school is wonderfully maintained, as you would expect from a group that spends hours laboring over wooden boats.  The school is in what used to be the stables on the estate that is now the Wooden Boat headquarters.  What a beautiful building, slate roof and all.

And, of course, there is the Wooden Boat Store as they publish books and plans as well a sell unusual tools and the ubiquitous T shirts.  Years ago the store, and mail order business, were located in a room in the main building.  Now they have a dedicated building and a nicely designed one it is at that.

Not a bad place to spend a week learning to build boats.

Brooklin Maine is located on Eggemoggin Reach, a nice stretch of water that runs perpendicular to the prevailing winds so you can sail up and down the reach in calm water most any time the winds are out of the South West.  This light is now a private residence and marks the northwest entrance of the reach.   I have always thought that it would be wonderful to live in a lighthouse or at least the lighthouse keepers house.  Not sure how I’d address the furniture in a round room.  For sure, the theme would be nautical.

A number of boat yards specializing in wooden boats have grown up in the area so most any time you sail on the reach you will encounter some lovely vessel out for a sail such as this little gaff rigged sloop.   Interestingly, one of the best known photographers of wooden boats is a guy Ben Mendlowitz who does a lot of work for Wooden Boat, lives near by and I am pretty sure that we saw him chasing a really nice sloop later that day in his runabout taking pictures.  It’s the late afternoon light that Ben enjoys using to get the best shots of his subjects.  I met Ben years ago when I had him speak at a Corinthians Gam about his photography.   It seems to me that traveling all around the world taking photographs of beautiful wooden boats would be a fun way to make a living. Ben probably wouldn’t approve of that nasty outboard hanging off of the transom though.

A couple of the students working on a wood strip canoe.  Generally, you sign up for the course with the plan of learning how to build a particular boat that you will finish in a week.

It’s not too often that you see a “corporate headquarters” that looks like this except perhaps at hedge funds in Greenwich CT.
What other publishing company has a view like this!  You have to admire Wilson for what he has created.  In this case it was literally out of nothing as the first issue was published out of his home that didn’t have a phone or electricity as this short history describes.  Very impressive.  
There are some beautiful, if somewhat rustic, gardens on the property including some old apple trees.   This cluster of Indian Pipes were growing in deep shade in some moss.  Really interesting plants as they don’t have chlorophyll but form a symbiotic relationship with a particular fungus so it’s actually getting it’s energy from the sun but through the trees that it lives under. 
Headed back to Pandora there she is anchored off of the Wooden Boat dock complete with the burgee of the company.  What a great spot and a wonderful place to visit.  
I couldn’t resist a “still life” that I will entitle “rosemary, thyme, geranium and primary winch”.  Even this looks great on a bright summer day.  For now, I’ll leave it at that.   Today we are going ashore to enjoy the Frenchboro Lobster festival.  More on that later. 
  

>It’s been a rainy day in Belfast Maine

>As the saying goes, if you don’t like the weather, wait an hour.  Actually, we didn’t like the weather yesterday and had to wait about 24 as it was rainy and cold all day, only to finally stop drizzling around dinner time.  But hey, into every day a little rain must fall.  Besides, it washes the salt off of the boat.  

It’s Thursday morning and we are here in Belfast Harbor, at the head of Penobscot Bay.  We came here on Monday evening from Holbrook harbor near Castine after a nice cozy night on one of the nature preserve moorings.   This chart shows our run from the SSCA Gam in Isleboro, up around the top of the island, over to Holbrook Harbor and then to Belfast.  All very close and way up at the head of the bay.   Note that I figured out how to make the route show up better on the chart, in red!

The preserve at Holbrook has great trails and a really terrific dock to get ashore.  The dock is particularly important as the granite rocks drop off to the water rather dramatically.  With all of the rain of late the moss is lush and the forest floor very soft and quiet to walk on.   There is quite a view from the top of the steps on the dock.  Not a lot of boats in the harbor keeping Pandora company.  All and all, a beautiful day.  Not great cell coverage though, even with the booster.

There is moss and ferns on everything.  Very “green” and soothing to look at.
It’s always nice to see the contrast of sea and woods.  I guess some animal (person animal perhaps?) put this urchin shell on a bed of moss. 
Nice contrast of green and red berries. 
Brenda wanted that urchin shell and several other treasures.  Happy girl!
With the some 10′ tides in this area you sometimes see reversing falls.  They run dramatically out when the tide drops and hard in the other direction.   This one runs out through a narrow cut and right by someone’s dock.  I wouldn’t want to bring Pandora up to that dock when the tide is running.  Look at all of the foam that piles up there too.
Late on Monday afternoon we made the short run over to Belfast.  This harbor is very pretty but exposed from the south.  Along the way we saw a not so little rain cloud blow by.  Really dramatic actually. 
But, after a while it cleared off and got sunny again.  You have to love these dramatic vistas.
Once we were in Belfast we took a mooring, went ashore and enjoyed the lovely town.  The buildings are really interesting and well preserved. 
The buildings on main street are mostly made of red brick and have wonderful details. 
This certainly looks like an old time New England main street. 
There is a large supermarket outside of town that I walked to early one morning but it is a REALLY LONG WAY, I learned and it’s up hill, really UP.  The good news is that it’s only up hill one way.  Besides, I was able to get a ride from a nice Mainer for the run back to the boat.  Later I learned that there was quite a large co-op natural  food store just off of main street, heavily devoted to the nuts and berry set however.  Fortunately, they had good fish and meat too.  While everything in the store was “natural” it seems that even natural food lovers know that you can’t be too picky about wine and beer.  It seems that they dropped their standards and had the same brands as the “normal” stores.  I guess when it comes to booze, you have to be practical, green or not.  Well, at least you can take all those bottles home in a canvas bag. Yea, that works.  
As nice as our visit was, the harbor’s exposure to the south proved itself as the wind shifted to the, you guessed it, the south and blew up to 25 kts all night.  It was really bumpy and when the tide ran out opposing the tide, it got really interesting with Pandora riding sideways to the wind with the current pushing her into the wind.   There was a little double ended sailboat on the mooring next to ours that was bouncing all over the place and wasn’t being affected by the current the same way as we were.  While we were more steady they were “sailing” all around their mooring and would have bumped into us had it not been for the vigilance of both of us to continually fend off.  This did make for a long night but as I said earlier, “into every life a little rain must fall”. Make that a wind from the south in an exposed harbor. 
The weather has cleared, at least it’s not raining and today will be better.  This afternoon we are going to move to somewhere else and head out for a long weekend.  More on that later.

>SSCA Islesboro Gam and world cruisers

>It’s Sunday morning and we are here in Islesboro in Penobscot Bay Maine.  It’s raining and the day looks like it isn’t going to be one of those crisp clear days that we have been having so many of lately.  Yesterday was great fun as we joined in at the 20 something annual Islesboro Gam for the Seven Seas Cruising Association, a worldwide group of cruisers and liveaboards.  While we have only been members for a few years, we have begun to really enjoy the group and members that we have met.  To spend time with “regular” women who cruise great distances has given Brenda a lot more confidence and helped her see the positives of a life afloat.    There is definitely a different mentality with these folks and what their lifestyle means to them compared with the Yacht Club Set that we have hung out with for so many years.  Both groups are great fun but this group is much more low key and mostly of very modest means.  While many of them have retired early, they live simply because it allows them to spend more time doing what they want to and it seems that they are more focused on accumulating experiences and less on gathering stuff.

That’s not to say that they aren’t voyaging in impressive boats but they still seem like simple folks and are really quite welcoming and unassuming.

This is only the second year that we have joined in at the gam which was held at the summer home of a cruising couple who have been here in Islesboro for many years.  Their home is modest but wonderfully maintained and is set up in a way that they can shut it down, water and electricity OFF, for the long cold Maine winter while they head south to enjoy warm weather cruising.  They drain their water, board up the windows and just lock the door.  The heating system is filled with antifreeze so they can just walk away.   Sounds great as I have been wondering what it would be like to be several thousand miles away when an ice storm hits and the power is out for a week with know one to check on things.  Not a pleasant thought.

On Friday night we participated in a really fun event, a dingy raft-up for cocktails and hors d’oeuvres.  The way that this works, given the need to accommodate crew on the nearly 40 boats in attendance, was to have everyone tie up to the stern of a host boat in a big floating mass, meet, greet and pass their offerings from boat to boat.  Half of the fun is swapping plates of nibbles between bobbing dinks while talking to everyone tied up to you.  What was particularly amusing is that the winds really piped up so this floating cocktail party was bobbing and pitching all the while trying to balance drinks and snacks.  Relaxing isn’t the word that comes to mind, more like great fun.

As we were in the thick of the group, this shot doesn’t begin to show how many boats, nearly 40 in all, were tied together.

In the mix we met some of the most interesting people including a couple who’s home port was Anacortes Washington.  Interested, I asked them if they went through the Panama Canal.  They reply was “not yet”.  Clearly enjoying the questioning, there was a moment while they watched me try to process this answer.  After a generous pregnant pause, they volunteered a bit more information letting me know that they had crossed the Pacific and made their way through the Indian Ocean and the Suez Canal.  After spending several years in the Med they were continuing their journey and had decided to visit Maine and participate in the Gam.  All and all, they had been underway for some 9 years and after Maine would be headed south for winter in the Caribbean prior to finally transiting the Canal, the Panama one.  Hearing that, I asked if they were then going home to Washington only to learn that they still had lots to explore going up the west coast and that it would likely be a long time till they “swallowed the anchor” and moved ashore.  This is just one example of the really interesting folks that we have met through the SSCA and you can see why they are a group that we are enjoying.

Part of the tradition of this Gam is to invite a speaker to give a talk and this year’s was particularly enjoyable.  Their speaker was an author of some 18 books and what a terrific speaker he was.  James Nelson the author of several works of fiction, has also written many historical non-fiction books including his most recent title, George Washington’s Great Gamble:  And the sea battle that won the American Revolution.  I won’t detail his talk here but it’s sufficient to say that he is a very engaging speaker and the book sounds just terrific.

Jim’s speaking style is very energetic and he held the attention of his audience totally as he spoke from our host’s front porch. 
After his talk, he and I spoke about his coming down to the NYC area to present to The Corinthians, a group that I have been very active with for years.   I am sure that the group would really enjoy hearing from him.  I hope that it works out. 
Folks at the Gam spread out on our host’s lawn to listen to our speaker and enjoy a pot luck lunch provided by all. 
It was such fun to see old friends and make new ones.   We even saw our old friends from our catboat days Tom and Susan who had spent over two years sailing their boat up and down the East Coast.   
As I was scooting around the harbor I enjoyed checking out some of the local water craft including this rather unlikely craft, a classic trailer “parked” on a barge.  I would think that this would be a nice place to spend time with a wonderful view of the Camden Hills in the distance. 
I wonder if this picnic spot was part of a “family compound”.  It was close but not that close to the trailer boat as heading to lunch would mean a dip to make if from one to the other.  Perhaps they were part of a progressive dinner plan.  
I particularly liked this cute lobster shack with a mess of lobster cars floating out in front. 
Meanwhile, this float plane circled over head for quite a while.  I was hoping for a landing but they eventually headed off into the distance. 
Well, today all of the boats that attended the gam will begin to disperse and head off to points east.  With the iffy weather I am not sure where we are headed but it will certainly be a spot with cell coverage as tomorrow is a school day.  
One last thought about those cruisers.  When I tell them that we are cruising but that I still work, this statement is greeted with something that sounds a lot like eeewww!!!.  Hmm…I guess that I will have to do something about that.

>Old and new, Wind Horse and the Dashews

>For many years I have admired the work of Steve and Linda Dashew and the style of narrow slippery sailing craft that they pursued. After reaching a “certain age” they moved from sail to a powerboat and designed a very unique craft Wind Horse.  It is this very attitude of narrow long easily driven hulls that inspired me when I purchased Pandora.  In a day where it seems that it’s more about what’s down below and focused on “how many can it sleep?” to me it’s more about performance and sea keeping ability, not to forget speed.

Having read much about the Dashew’s work over the years, imagine how thrilled I was when we arrived in Camden earlier this week to see Wind Horse anchored in the harbor.   On Thursday morning I dropped by to say hello and had a nice chat with Linda Dashew who was sitting out on deck enjoying the view of the Camden Hills.

Interestingly, Steve keeps a blog and many of his photos from Camden two days ago are similar to the ones that I took.  His blog is well worth looking at.   Here’s his post on Camden.  Funny, he didn’t take a photo of Pandora.  No wait, his post was from the day prior to our arrival.  Yea, that’s the ticket as he would have certainly included Pandora had he seen her.

Wind Horse is known for her long narrow slippery hull.   This boat looks like it is designed to take anything, and it is.  If you check older posts you will see that they were in Arctic waters not long ago.   I guess that they have a good heater.   This boat is just so impressive.  Check out this tour of her.  It really shows what she is made of.   She’s not a lot wider than Pandora and yet nearly twice as long.    This link to their site is a video about a cruise near Greenland that they took.  There are lots of other videos there worth viewing.

You can really see just how narrow she is.  No wonder she knifes through the waves.

Speaking of narrow, this was also the style way back when this Victorian era steam yacht was launched.  So different and yet the same.  What a contrast to see them both anchored together in the same harbor.

What an amazing sight with all that varnish.  

And, a sweet clipper bow.  Certainly different than today’s focus on interior accommodations.   However, I’ll bet that she is lovely down below.

Speaking of long and narrow, as that’s the theme of the moment.  Here’s a very modern Aegis Battle Ship from Bath Iron Works here in Maine visiting Rockland for the annual lobster festival.  The color is a lot like Wind Horse and I’ll bet that she’s plenty good in rough seas.  And yes, she sleeps plenty, narrow hull and all.

I posted shots of Bystander last week but can’t resist a few more of her on dock in the inner harbor in Camden.   What a classic she is even though she was built in 2004.  I am told that between her and the
J class sailing yacht Velsheda the combined crew is in the neighborhood of 25.  Running these two boats is like running a corporation.  Actually the combined budgets might be like a small city.  No, make that a large city.  It’s nice to know that even the big guys have technical difficulties and Bystander was visiting because of generator problems.  Parked on the dock beside her was a portable generator half the size of a tractor trailer to supply power to her while they worked on her own power plant. No yellow shore power cord would work here.

She is styled like a classic ship from early last century.  Wonderfully done.

I should also show these few shots of our brief visit to Stonington for lunch last weekend.  What a lovely place to visit.

It’s mostly a fishing village but there are some very nice places to have lunch such as this deck on the water where we stopped.  Good food.  We admire this sort of shade treatment and would enjoy having such an arrangement on our deck at home.

It’s hard to imagine a more scenic side yard on a sunny August afternoon.  
Now this is a place that I could sit down and enjoy a nice gin and tonic.   

It’s Saturday and we are at the the Seven Seas Cruising Association (SSCA) rendezvous and I am very much looking forward to meeting lots of new people sharing the cruising lifestyle and seeing old friends.   I also am hopeful that we will get a tour of Wind Horse as Linda Dashew said that they will be here.  Should be a great weekend.

The sky here is just amazing.  Hard to imagine seeing clouds like this “for real”.  Put these in a painting and they would say that they looked fake.  

>Month 2 aboard, SSCA rendezvous and a submersible by Virgin Oceanic

>It’s hard to believe that it’s been a month that we have been aboard Pandora here in Maine.   We have had terrific weather, although today’s isn’t anything to write home about (wait, I am writing home about it in this post) with winds out of the NE and building up a nice chop on the harbor’s mile fetch here in Rockland.

Today is Tuesday and it’s another work day with the specter of some decent time off on the horizon later this month.  However, I am very much looking forward to this weekend’s rendezvous of the Seven Seas Cruising Association (SSCA) on Isleboro about 10 miles north of here.  This rendezvous has been hosted by a cruising couple for over 20 years who have a home on the water there.   Their place has a wonderful view and waterfront property that faces the anchorage.

The group, SSCA, has some 2,500 members worldwide and is dedicated to the cruising lifestyle.  The group provides lots of resources including a robust website at www.ssca.org.  For the modest cost of a membership, and you can join at major sailing boatshows, there is a monthly print newsletter with lots of cruising notes, written by members from their travels around the world.  The site also includes links to many other resources worth checking out incuding the 7 seas U, that offers courses on many topics from energy use aboard boats to fitting out a water maker aboard.

On Sunday evening in Rockland Harbor I saw a boat flying an SSCA burgee that three dinks tied up behind hit.  Knowing that it meant a party, I shot over to introduce myself.  It was a great visit and I met three couples that had spent many years cruising with trips to the Caribbean islands, Bahamas and the Med among them. I learned that one feature of the gam would be a talk on “heading South”, something that Brenda and I plan to do in the next few years.  We will have to take that one in.

It will be fun to participate for the second year and now that we know more folks in the group it will be even better.  Last year there were over 50 boats, an impressive turnout.  They also have gams in Annapolis, Florida and even in Tonga in the South Pacific.  Not sure that particular one is in my future.

On another somewhat related front, I was interested to read in the New York Times today, that there is a move by some well off folks, billionaires actually, to build submersibles that will be capable of reaching the very deepest parts of the ocean.  I guess that’s related to sailing as it involves water, even if it’s on the other side of the surface.

While folks that sail do their best to stay on top of the water, these guys will be going under, a long way under  in some very high tech craft.    Check out the article in The Times.

They profile three groups that are pursuing this including Richard Branson, the iconic leader of Virgin Atlantic Airlines and other businesses as well as James Cameron, the director of Titanic and Avitar.

I was particularly intrigued by Branson’s group Virgin Oceanic and their submersible, that looks more like a plane than a sub, will “fly” through the ocean to great depths.  They have an interesting video about the project.  Of particular in interest, is that the “mother ship” for the project is a massive sailing cat.  This guy does have flair and it can’t hurt his businesses to be seen as just so hip.


Another company is Triton Submarines, who boast that they are the only company building subs for yacht based use.  Perhaps there should be one on Pandora.  Perhaps not.  I have had to raise the waterline because of all the crap on board once already.  Not again.   Here’s a fun video about their deep sea project.

Well, enough messing around.  Time to get to work and it’s only a few day to the weekend.  

Scroll to Top