Well, here I am in my office at home, having returned from Antigua about a week ago and it’s cold.

It is sunny but has been totally shocking to go from a little too hot in Antigua to a lot too cold within only a few days.

We celebrated Thanksgiving with our son Christopher at his apartment when we arrived back in the US in Manhattan and took a train back to CT where we are now.

Yes, it’s cold and all I can do is to turn up the heat, trading mid 80s for the high 20s. Not my first choice.

The good news is that the yard is in good shape as I did a lot of cleaning up before departing for Trinidad over a month ago and hired a lawn service to do a “final” cleanup. One less thing to do in the yard. That’s a good thing as everything is frozen solid given unusually cold weather for this early in the season.

And, speaking of final cleanup, I was on such a deadline to bring Pandora north to Antigua from Trinidad to meet the arrival of the Salty Dawg fleet, that I did not have an opportunity to get a number of little details settled on Pandora.

I had some paint shipped to Trinidad to address a few scratches that ended up being delayed by a hurricane and the usual bureaucratic issues of getting things into Trinidad and I had to leave before it was at the boatyard.

After taking a careful look at the boat over the last few weeks I have decided to take her back to Trinidad to have some final details finished, probably in March. Don’t get me wrong, Pandora looks great, like new, but with such a big job, it is inevitable that there would be a few small issues that were overlooked and need a bit more attention such as a fine paint overspray on the solar panels, that needs to be removed.

Amos, who managed the job, has been very understanding and happy to address these issues upon my return. I have been quite pleased with his work and have recommended a number of people to go to him for jobs, both big and small.

I don’t know exactly when we will be back to Antigua following the holidays but I am hoping that we might return a bit in advance of the 15th, Brenda’s birthday. As she has been away for so many of her birthdays over the years, it is reasonable that she’d want to be home this year. One can only hope…

Now that the arrival events for the rally are completed and we are back home, I am turning my attention to the schedule for the winter and all the issues associated with my planned run in the spring to the Azores.

I am particularly focused on crew for the run to Horta from Bermuda but will also be looking for crew to make the run to Bermuda from St Martin in mid May and from the Azores to Portugal in mid July following a month aboard with Brenda exploring the Azores islands.

Under the category of “random serendipity” Brenda and I ran into a lovely couple at the yacht club the other evening and as luck would have it, they had just returned from a week long captained charter in the Azores and we had a wonderful time comparing notes.

The “yacht” was a bit smaller than Pandora and they had settled on that particular boat based on a short 5 minute YouTube video that they had seen. Just for fun, as it does give a pretty good feel for the area, here it is. This is the video that inspired them to book the charter.

I’ll admit that any Enya soundtrack always chokes me up as my late Father loved her work. Admittedly, he did love what Brenda would with a wrinkled nose, call “elevator music” but then, so do it.

After spending a month in the Azores with Brenda, I will run Pandora toward the Med, where she will be hauled until the following spring. I have not been able to confirm where I will stop but was thinking about Lagos, in Southern Portugal.

Check out this short video and you can see why Lagos is so popular with cruisers and tourists alike.

However, a lot of this depends on the relative threat of being attacked by a killer whale, or Orca. There have been many reports of a pod attacking boats and chewing off the lower part of their rudder. There are a number of sites that track orcas and their boat attacks and it seems that the best defense is to just avoid being in the same waters as orcas.

As they migrate to follow their food, primarily tuna, they are in more southern waters near Logos and Gibraltar in the spring and move north as the season progresses. This suggests that I as I will be heading east from the Azores in late July, that it might make sense for me to go directly to Gibraltar and not farther west along the southern Portugal coast, my original plan.

Also, under the category of “serendipity” Brenda and I were introduced to a couple, Lynn and Ian, by longtime cruising friends Anne and Dick, who we sailed with in the Bahamas. Ian and Lynn have a vacation home in the Azores and we had a lovely intro to them on the phone the other night.

Their charming stone home in the Azores, perched high on a bluff, a short ferry boat ride from Horta.

Their patio. I’ll bet that the view is to die for.

And their cruising boat that I believe is in the US now, on the hard while they travel around the US visiting Friends.

Amazingly, and very spontaneously, they have invited us when I arrive with Pandora and Brenda flies in to Horta to stay with them and tour the islands together. They are fellow cruisers, spending much of their time aboard their own boat and their willingness to welcome us is typical, and very welcome, among the dedicated cruising set.

In my own shy and retiring way, after comparing notes with them on the phone for nearly an hour, I invited them to do a webinar for Salty Dawg on the subject of “cruising the Azores” and expect to have it in the first half of January.

I am very excited about hearing what they have to share and will be promoting it to the member of Salty Dawg. Stay tuned for details on that discussion as it will be free to all comers.

It is amazing how one thing leads to another and how hanging out with the cruising community has enriched our lives so much over the years.

So, lots to do in preparation for our time in the Med and with new friends in the Azores, all the more to look forward to.

All of this will help me overlook the sub freezing temperatures here in CT.

Aboard Pandora, the only thing cold is the fridge and freezer. And cold beer… Something else to look forward to.

That’s about all for now. Off to MD to see the grand kiddies for a few days.

It’s hard to believe that the rally and nearly all of the arrival events are history now with the last of the boats that were stuck in Bermuda now here in Antigua.

This year, as in so many other rallies, boats were at sea for a very long time. Most of the fleet stopped in Bermuda to wait for a green light regarding a possible late season hurricane, as there was a lot of uncertainty about weather when boats departed. Most of the boats in the fleet were able to leave Bermuda after only a short delay but those who weren’t ready to go, or lost crew, ended up stuck for about two weeks waiting for a weather window. Those boats only arrived in the last few days. From the time that the bulk of the fleet departed from the US, it was more than three weeks until the last of the “stray dawgs” arrived in Antigua.

The events in Antigua began about two weeks ago and went off without a hitch. Two days ago we went to an event hosted by North Sails, Andrew and his wife Simone. It was a great time with wonderful food, an ice-cream truck and live music.

Simone did all the cooking and the spread was quite elegant.

Last evening, we went to what was, for us, one final get-together with the Dawgs at a local Mexican place. And today, Wednesday, a flight back to the US for me, Brenda and Chris.

In past years I have spent quite a bit on mooring rental while I am home and at $30+ a day it really adds up. And, last year I had someone look after Pandora and when I returned and was presented with a bill, I was more than a bit shocked with what he charged me, on an hourly basis, about $100/hr. I protested but he did not budge much.

So, I put the word out as so many other Dawgs need someone to look after their boat and found a very nice young guy, Jean Marie to watch mine and more than a dozen other boats while owners are away.

Jean Marie is around the harbor quite a lot as he delivers baked goods in the anchorage every morning for the local French bakery. He will be boarding Pandora twice a week and keep an eye on her every day. It’s nice when someone local steps up to help and even better when I am able to recommend them and help fellow Dawgs.

I met him thorough La Brassier, a wonderful French restaurant and bakery. The owners, Isabella and Eric turn out some of the best French food we have ever had. Jean Marie tours the harbor every morning with their wares and sells them to cruisers who are just starting their day.

I designed and installed a flag to call attention to the bakery and while it isn’t all that inspired, It should help folks contact and get some of the great pastry.

As Pandora will spend a lot of time this winter alone, I wanted to find a more economical way to store her and a friend was kind enough to arrange to put in a mooring for me. I paid the divers and rigger to set things up but my friend Paul arranged everything.

The mooring is comprised of a large old anchor, a huge metal box and a riser to a buoy. The premise is that the anchor is dug in and the heavy box acts as a kellet. The anchor has 25′ of heavy chain, shackled to the box and then chain going up to a heavy mooring line. the box keeps the pull on the anchor straight along the bottom so that it will hold even with relatively short scope. It took a cast of thousands to set the mooring. Paul to supervise and a number of divers to deliver and set the tackle.

The anchor was quite heavy and had clearly spent years, perhaps decades, under water. I expect that one of the divers stumbled on it while diving in the area. You can see the “box”, to the right. I expect that it was very heavy as well.

So, now I am the proud owner of a mooring at a price that is somewhat less than renting one from the AYC Marina, which is pretty expensive. As I am only here for this season before heading to the Med, I will have to think about what to do with it next. Perhaps I will lend it to a fellow Dawg next season.

And, speaking of Marinas, the manager/owner of Catamaran Marina, here in Falmouth has a large number of Caribbean Tortises in her yard and every year they lay eggs. She collects the hatchlings and distributes them to good homes. I was offered two a few years ago but chickened out due to the fact that they will likely outlive me. However, every year I visit and continue to be smitten with the dozens of baby tortoises that she has in her shop. Each one is about the size of a lemon and are just adorable.

In spite of all the events that we hold every year, I am always on the lookout for more opportunities to share the fun of Antigua with our members. After a number of years trying, I was able to work with a local liquor store, Grand Cru, to host a rum tasting for the Dawgs. We had a great turnout. Lisa, from English Harbor distilleries, lead us on a fascinating journey through their many types of rum.

Lisa told us about the many different rums that they make.

Each rum that they poured was carefully described. We went from white, unaged rum to more exotic and progressively darker rums aged for years in Port, Whisky and other types of spirit barrels.

It was nice to have our son Christopher with us. His time with us has been a working visit, I won’t even call it a “working vacation” and he didn’t really chill except well after the work day was done. We did have some difficulty in finding him good places to work in spite of the National Park Director saying she’d be able to get him an office as it turned out to be only for a very limited time so that was a bust. That caused quite a bit of anxiety until Chris settled into more of a routine and accepted that things might not be quite as smooth as we had hoped. All and all, I think that he was able to get get a reasonable amount of work done. He may disagree but it was nice to spend time with him here.

Our hosts.

After a discussion about the various types of English harbor rums, that lasted nearly 90 minutes, the store offered a small discount for any purchases that evening and I think that nearly everyone lined up to purchase rum. I was glad to see that it worked out for Sarah, the manager of the store.

I had also suggested a raffle and gave everyone a ticket. Brenda was the lucky one although that elicited a bit of a groan from the audience when her ticket was pulled.

I have also been working on a number of projects in anticipation of sailing this season. A few have proved to be very frustrating including some issues with our electronics, wind speed and radar. I believe I know what the problem with the radar is but I am not certain. Fingers crossed that the fix that was suggested will work out.

In anticipation of our run across the Atlantic to Horta in the Azores, I am considering having 4 crew on board which means that I will need to come up with an additional berth so nobody will have to “hot bunk”, something that most do not like. Hot bunking means sleeping in the same bed when someone is up on watch. Not great.

Anyway, a friend suggested that I put in a lee-board in the aft cabin so I had the canvas guy split the front cushion and had Amos, in the yard in Trinidad, make a board 16″ tall that runs the length of the aft berth.
I brought some removable hinges from home and secured the board. It pulls out of the hinges and slips under the mattress.

At the aft end of the berth I installed two brackets that I fabricated from cherry at home to match the interior woodwork. The lee board is slid into the hinges and a pin secures the board against the bulkhead supporting it vertically. It seems pretty sturdy and I expect that it will work on passage. Fingers crossed.

And, under the category of “random acts of kindness”, I made up a flag for a local French Bakery, La Brassier, for my friends Eric and Isabella. They have a young man who roams the harbor in the mornings selling croissants and baguettes. I also lent them my hand held VHF and installed the flag on their dink. This way folks will see them coming and I expect that they will sell more. I think that they should also offer ice and other items but we will see if they want to expand their offerings.

The sign is pretty ham-handed but heck, I got it done, PVC pipe and all.

And from the sublime to the ridiculous, the size of the yachts that have arrived here is stunning. How about this lineup. Small, medium and large. Or, perhaps big, bigger and humungous. The one on the left is called Wheels. It’s owned by the largest car dealer in the US. Yes, you are right, cars and car repairs are really very expensive.

As the sun sets on our time here before the holidays and our departure on Wednesday, perhaps a fitting photo of a sunset, representative of what we see nearly every evening.

That’s it, the party (parties) are over and it’s hard to believe that we will be away until mid January. That’s a long time for Pandora to sit all by herself.

If history is any guide, the holidays will whip by and before you know it…

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We still have a week of arrival events coming up but after the “arrival dinner” our big event, the remaining ones are simpler and everyone has settle into a routine of hanging out during the day and getting together in the evenings.

For the first time since my arrival ten days ago, I haven’t felt stressed, which is good.

Last evening we were hosted for drinks and food by my friend Franklyn and his wife Marie, of A&F sails. Franklyn, or Sir Franklyn, as he was knighted by the Queen, is very active as president of the local marine trade group, long time commodore of the Antigua Yacht Club and a big help in the Antigua scholarship program that I work on.

They hosted the Dawgs, and it was a good size group, for drinks, food and a very interesting demonstration.

In the US when the windows on a dodger begin to get nasty, it is generally recommended that you buy a completely new dodger. However, here they recommend just putting in new vinyl and keeping the basic structure of the original, which is a lot less expensive than making the whole thing from scratch.

He and one of his staff did a really interesting demo of how they renew dodger windows. The entire demonstration only took about 20 minutes and everyone seemed to be very interested.

First, showing the condition of the window to be “refreshed”. Without cutting out the old dirty plastic, they attached a new window over the old with double stick tape.

Then two rows if stitching all around. It was amazing how perfectly straight the stitching was.

Then the “old” plastic was carefully cut out. Like Ballet, when done well, it looks very easy. And it did…

So, after a few moments of cutting, it looked like new.

While the event was social and very nice, I am mindful that Franklyn has a business to run and I was careful to introduce everyone to him. Based on what they saw, I am sure that he will see good from the effort.

Sure, the events are fun but I feel strongly that when a business invests time in us, I like to see them get a return. So far, so good and Franklyn is very good to the Dawgs.

Enough about events for the moment so I would like to pivot back to my visit from the Artist that was here last week, Patrick O’Brien. I like this image from his website of his studio.

The visit was just terrific and I am optimistic that he will be back on the island in the future, perhaps with some of the other members of ASMA, the marine painting group.

Patrick painted three plein air pieces while he was here and the last one was from Shirley Heights at sunset, a lookout high above the Dockyard that was built by the Royal Navy back in the late 1700s. For a definition of this technique, follow this link to plein air painting. If you have seen a photo from a high vantage point in Antigua there is a good possibility that it was taken of a sunset from that fortification.

Here is Patrick painting as the sun sunk below the horizon.

This was the vantage that he was trying to capture. He attracted quite a crowd, as a visiting “street artist”.

I am always amazed with how the light changes moment by moment as the sun sets. This close to the equator, it drops very fast, going from sunny to dark in about 30 minutes. The rapidity of change was challenging for Patrick as he struggled to capture the “perfect moment” as one more moment was more beautiful than the last.

Moments later, literally very few… A much different view.

The island in the distance is Montserrat, one of a number of islands that have active volcanoes. In this case, nearly half of the island is off limits due to the risk of eruption following a very active period from 1995 to 2010, last erupting in 2013, not a long time ago.

Not so peaceful, once upon a time.

A bit more peaceful today and moments later, as the sun dropped below the horizon, the sight was even more dramatic.

After the sun had set, the lights began to twinkle on below.

This is indeed a beautiful place and I will be sad when we head home next week. And even worse knowing that after this winter, we may never be back with a run to the Mediterranean on the horizon next spring.

So, even with a number of more events, the most complex are behind me now so I can chill a bit and enjoy the moment, as fleeting as it may be.

And speaking of Chill… How about our new neighbor. The Baltic Yacht build Pink Gin, now called Ravinger after a sale and 9 month refit. Well, aside from being a neighbor and fresh out of a refit, that’s about the only thing that she has in common with Pandora. She is huge, at more than 200′ long.

She is a lot bigger than she looks at the dock. Under sail…

Like Patrick, I am always on the lookout for great lighting. This is the view behind Pandora as I publish this post so I will finish up with that for now.

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Most of the Salty Dawg rally fleet is now in Antigua. Sadly, there are still about a half dozen boats stuck in Bermuda with a possible departure today, Sunday or perhaps Monday. And, as they are still 900 miles north, it’s going to be the better part of a week before they arrive. That’s a bummer and in spite of having events that span two weeks, they will miss a lot of them.

Part of the reason that Salty Dawg is so warmly greeted in Antigua is because we show up a few weeks before the “season” begins. That means that we are looking to have broken stuff fixed and we eat out a lot. Having a few hundred more mouths to feed for two weeks is important to the economy.

When I arrived in Antigua about a week ago, the Dockyard was completely empty.

Now, a bit busier.

So much has been going on with the arrival of the fleet that it’s been hard to keep everything straight. One thing that I have been able to keep careful track of is that Brenda is arriving later today and I am very excited about that. Our son Christopher will be with her so she will have her own personal Sherpa to help with her bags.

Pandora is tied up in the Dockyard with many of the other Rally boats and I was lucky enough to receive a number of photos, compliments of the Department of Tourism, of the fleet on the dock. What a beautiful place.

And, if you look realy close, Pandora… No, that blue arrow isn’t part of the boat 🙂

But wait, there’s more. The boats on the other side of the dock. Salty Dawg boats all around.

These drone photos were associated with a meeting that I had with the Minister of Tourism, Max Fernandez on Friday. We have met many times over the years and when we met this week, we were talking about a number of possible collaborations in the US for Antigua. During and after the meeting a photographer followed us around.

Our meeting included the Board Director of the International Yacht Restoration School, Steve. I have been working with IYRS and some folks in Antigua on a scholarship program for a number of years with my friend Bob and it is really beginning to build momentum. This meeting was to discuss expanding on that activity and I feel like we made some nice progress.

The gang… From left to right. Franklyn, President of the Antigua and Barbuda Marine Trades Association, Steve, Chair of the IYRS Board of Directors, Bob, my partner on this initiative, the Minister of Tourism, Paul, the owner of the Admiral’s Inn and terrific supporter of many initiatives on the island, Me :), and Devin, who is responsible for Yachting Development for Antigua. A number of the items discussed came up when I met with Devin at the Annapolis Boat show in October.

After the meeting the Minister, photographer in tow, toured the Dockyard with me to see all the Salty Dawg boats that were tied up. He was impressed and noted that the size of the boats was larger than he had expected.

A few years ago, then “Prince Charles” visited Antigua and took a tour of the Dockyard. My friend Mike, happened to be tied up when the small entourage, showed up to see the boats. I asked Mike to show the Minister a photo of that encounter when Charles spoke to him for about 10 minutes, which he did. The Minister was very interested and asked Mike to send a copy to him. It was a pretty neat moment.

There are still loads of events planned to celebrate the arrival of the fleet and with Brenda here it’s going to be at a whole better level.

There are a lot of folks from the fleet enjoying themselves. A few nights ago we had a “happy hour” on the dock behind Pandora. I climbed up on a neighboring boat and got this great shot.

And yet another event… No rest for the weary and a bigger group.

I have also spent a lot of time with my painter friend Patrick O’Brien, who agreed to come to Antigua to scope it out as a possible destination for other members of the American Society of Marine Artists. Patrick is the president of the group these days and as a huge fan of marine art, I am anxious to help try and make something happen.

A few days during their visit here, I have accompanied him out to do some plein-air painting sketches. It’s been terrific fun. To watch a piece come to life from a blank canvas in a few hours is quite an experience.

We camped out behind this old storage building that once held gunpowder for the nearby cannon battery.

When Patrick paints, he attracts a crowd. This little girl and her mother were fascinated watching him. It was fun to see him interact with her and how patient he was while trying to paint.

He spends a lot of time scoping out the right image and location to focus on. His pieces are generally pretty rough at first and then he takes them back to the studio, compares his photos, the painted piece and a lot of detail from memory to complete the picture. I expect that some of the pieces he worked on will end up being larger scale pieces once he returns to the US and his studio.

Being around artists for so many years, I have come to appreciate how they see the world in a more nuanced way. So many today are busy trying to get ahead that it seems the world sort of washes over them and they aren’t all that aware of what going on all around them. Not so for Patrick. Like many artists, he sees the world with the wonder of a child experiencing things for the very first time.

Only partially finished. A view toward Nelson’s Dockyard from Ft Berkley.

And from way up high at Shirley Heights. The sun goes down so quickly in Antigua that he was only able to do a very rough sketch, with details to follow.

Once he returns to his studio he will finish the few canvases he started in Antigua. I can’t wait to see what he comes up with. As a point of reference, here are two pieces from his website.

In keeping with the period of Nelson’s Dockyard.

Or this historic New York harbor scene.

Patrick’s work is revered worldwide. Check out his studio site.

Last evening Astrid and her husband Bo, of the Admiral’s Inn, invited me, Patrick and Alison to their home overlooking the harbor for drinks and then dinner at the Inn.

We discussed the possibility of Patrick bringing down members of ASMA for a retreat and a week of painting. This place is so rich in history and I have to believe that many would find it to be inspiring as has Patrick.

During dinner, this little guy dropped from the heavens, well from the umbrella, stayed for a few moments and then scampered off.

Well, Brenda will be here in a few hours with Chris and I look forward to enjoying the island with them in tow.

Being here with Patrick and Alison, who leave the island tomorrow, has been a wonderful experience and I look forward to seeing them again soon, perhaps in Essex or even Antigua.

And, speaking of seeing folks here in Antigua, I sure hope that the skippers who have been stuck in Bermuda are able to make a fast passage to Antigua and join in the fun and I can’t wait to be able to say “the gang is all here”. Soon enough, I hope…

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It’s good to be back in Antigua but I will admit that as “past president” of Salty Dawg and here for what may be the last time for many years, is a bit sad. While I am excited about heading to Europe next spring, but I have come to really enjoy my time here in Antigua and it will be hard to leave in the Spring.

My crew Bob and I arrived here yesterday afternoon after completing a 400 mile run from Trinidad. We were delayed in our departure by nearly 5 days due to a lot of details that needed to be completed and that time being stuck in the marina was frustrating to us both. And, it was hot, much hotter than Antigua, oddly. I guess being that much farther south makes a big difference.

Amos, after doing all that work over the last few months aboard Pandora, saw us off and tossed our lines on that last morning.

As a result of the nearly 5 day delay, we were not able to stop as many places along the way.

However, I think that Bob enjoyed the run once we were finally underway.

As have mentioned in the past, the landscape in Trinidad is dramatic and as we headed out the scenery evoked Jurassic Park.

Sadly, we had to motorsail into the NE wind for the first day, probably putting more hours on the engine than I did all last season. Normally, I would have waited a day until the wind was favorable but we were just too pressed for time.

Once things settled down and tthe wind shifted back to the east, it was beautiful on the water. I think that I may send this photo to the Cloud Appreciation Society and see if they choose to publish it. I have had a number of photos chosen over the years. It’s a fun group that sends out a cloud photo every day, year round.

Due to being so late in our departure, we had to cover a lot more distance on that first hop than we had planned. The run from Trinidad, non-stop, was over 300 miles, the longest leg I have taken in the Caribbean in all the years that I have been sailing here. Our normal run is generally less than 75 miles.

Along the way we passed a number of islands. But much of that was done in the dark.

We made landfall in Les Saintes. I have written about this favorite spot many times. It is very picturesque. Check out this post that I did on our final visit last season.

After a day there, we did a short run to Deshais, a tiny village at the top of Guadeloupe. The sail was really nice in the lee of the island. The lighthouse at the southern tip, not far from Les Saintes.

As we made our way up the coast of Guadeloupe, we were approached, at speed, by a Guadeloupe coast guard boat. They roared up, came very close, within feet of us, waved and roared off. They smiled. I have no idea what they were looking for. “Oh, those guys, they look harmless. There have to be some bad guys out there somewhere. Let’s find them.”

In Deshais, we took a short hike up a stream to one of my favorite spots, a fresh water swimming hole. Bob and I both loved the experience.

The vegetation along the stream was very lush. I have always had a soft spot for tree ferns. This tiny one would look great on my back porch.

On our last evening in Deshais, we were treated to a classic Caribbean Sunset. A very nice way to finish up a cruise with Bob, even if it was a bit of an abbreviated forced march.

Pandora on her mooring in Deshais, as we returned from getting a few baguettes and croissants to tide us over on the run to Antigua, our final leg.

So, here I am alone on Pandora for a night as Bob has moved ashore to the Admiral’s Inn where his wife will join him for a week on the island. Friends of mine, Lynn and Mark, will join me for a few days until Kalunamoo arrives later this week.

The Salty Dawg fleet should begin arriving in a day or so, with dozens arriving each day. With about 80 boats headed this way it’s going to get busy in the Dockyard. Not yet so they wait.

I have seen a number of the folks that I know since arriving yesterday and the common refrain that I have heard is “let the season begin. The Dawgs are coming!”

I’m excited.