Inching north on the ICW
It’s Friday midday and Pandora is making her way, SLOWLY, up the Intra Coastal Waterway, ICW, on our way to Ft Pierce FL where we hope to jump out to begin our big jump to CT and home.
My crew, Dave and Chris, arrived on Wednesday evening and dodged the raindrops to join me aboard Pandora. That day it rained hard, much of the day, as the cold front came through Florida, bringing much appreciated lower humidity and significantly cooler temperatures.
However, the winds that accompanied the front did make me nervous that Pandora might drag her anchor in the not-so-great holding of Middle River. Or, to put a fine point on it, because of the not-so-great “anchoring hygine” of a certain large ketch that also makes it’s home there. I have seen him move around the harbor, in big winds, more than once and with the passage of the front on Wednesday, he did not disappoint, having to re-anchor several times, as he dragged about menacingly. Amazingly, he was aboard when this happened. What a novelty.
I guess that problem, along with the rest of us, will go away after July 1st, when the harbor is closed, perhaps permanently, to anchoring. I wrote about this in my last post at length, so I won’t repeat myself except to say that the whole issue of anchoring restrictions in southern FL is very unfortunate. Well, enough of that for now.
Besides, that problem won’t have much of a near-term effect on Pandora for the next two years, at least, as we plan on being in the eastern Caribbean for two seasons.
For now my focus is on getting back to CT, the upcoming SSCA three day event, the SSCA Summer Solstice Gam, that I am planning for June. I’ll also be remodeling two bathrooms and a laundry room (Important that I get these done, for the continued health of my four decade marriage), perhaps a cruise to Maine and some projects on Pandora, etc., etc,… Did I mention that the lawn will need cutting too?
Well, you get the picture. Lot’s happening and so little time.
Anyway, I spoke to Chris Parker, the weather router, this morning and it looks like we can make a run for CT on Saturday as the north winds are falling out at some point around that time. However, behind the front is well, there’s not much wind, so we will be doing a lot of motoring. The good news is that Pandora carries 150 gallons of fuel in three tanks. However, I have not tested that to see exactly how much I can actually burn in each tank before the level of fuel gets too low to be brought up by the pickup tubes. However, with the additional 20 gallons that I carry in cans, I should be able to motor all the way without a fill-up. And, hopefully, we will be able to sail at least part of the way. Fingers crossed.
I expect to get an update from Chris in the morning again to determine if we should leave first thing or wait till later to make a “run for it”. He has also mentioned that another cold front, perhaps a weak one, that is expected to exit the coast around Wednesday. However, that’s a long way off and details could change. And, to complicate the picture, there will be very light winds behind the most recent front so we will likely find ourselves motoring for days on end as we make the run north. Keeping in the current of the Gulf Stream much of the way will be a big advantage as it will give us a 2-3 kt boost in speed until we exit the Stream north of Cape Hatteras.
It’s great to have someone to talk to about weather as keeping on touch of such an important topic that changes day to day, makes for much more pleasant passages.
Oh, before I sign off. I have mentioned in prior posts that I continue to be struck by a bit of “culture shock” now that I am back in the States after two months in Cuba where life is so different. Of course, I love living here in the “land of opportunity”.
I was again reminded of the stark contrast between our countries as we made our way past one of the largest megayacht yards on the East Coast, the Rybovich Yard near Palm Beach.
But before I show some of these amazing yachts, how about a reminder about what a private “yacht” looks like in Cuba.
Perhaps not the largest one in the yard but huge.
Or, to put it another way. Huge, huger and hugest.
His and hers? So hard to choose. No wait, the one on the left must be “his” as it has a large, er… crane sticking upon the bow. Yes, of course.
It is Mother’s day in a few days. All wrapped up. “Honey, I got you something nice…”
And, certainly the “belle of the ball”. Venus, designed by Phillip Stark the famous designer, for Steve Jobs. Two HUGE egos working with each other. That must have been interesting. Unfortunately, Jobs didn’t live to see it launched. His widow and family use it now days. It was reported to cost $100M to build. Want to learn more? Click here…
That yard has perhaps one of the largest concentrations of “toys” belonging to the .001% gang just about anywhere. Something to aspire to. Not really, but something to dream about for sure.
And, if you want to get out on the water there’s always the Grand Celebration cruise ship moored nearby.
And, if you don’t have as much $$ as you want you can always eat your weight at the buffet table and become part of the “superweight set”. No wait, how about training to become the “heavy weight champion of the world”? “Stop it right now Bob, that’s not funny!! Well, not that funny.”
OK. And, speaking of the super wealthy, and I am very unfortunately not one of them, I do have to worry about what Pandora costs so I always want to be sure that I am able to stretch my “boating kitty” as far as possible. So, with that in mind, I shopped a bit for fuel today and was able to find it for $2.15 a gallon, a lot cheaper than it was down near Palm Beach and the “superyacht set” where it was around $3.00, a savings of nearly $100. Good deal and that’s nearly 1/10 of a “boat dollar”! Such a deal!
Palm Beach prices or not, fuel is a lot cheaper than in Cuba where it was the equivalent of about $5 a gallon and REALLY high in sulfur. The sulfur content was so high that the fuel has a brown tint and smelled strongly of sulfur. I understand that sulfur is actually good for the engine as it adds extra lubrication even though it smokes a bit more. In the U.S., fuel is very low in sulfur due to environmental concerns. Cuba doesn’t seem to be particularly focused on that and the air quality in the cities reflects that.
Soon we will be in Ft Pierce and will put the final touches on Pandora to get her ready to head offshore. And, depending on the evolving weather forecast, we will head offshore on Friday or Saturday to begin our run north. With a cold front due to arrive later next week, it’s at best a guess as to when we will round Montauk and enter Long Island Sound. I’d guess around a week or perhaps a bit less and we should be there.
So, don’t forget that you can follow along to keep track of our progress by clicking here or “where in the world is Pandora” on the home page. We post our position every four hours while we are underway.
Wish us luck. Details to come, as always.



Anyway, the fact is that somehow waterfront property owners of houses that look like this (not necessarily this owner) seem to have taken a “nuclear approach” to address a complicated problem that has ended up hurting everyone except the few that have waterfront property. Unfortunately, the few that “do not play well together” and have the resources, and “friends in the right places” have now been successful in securing their “saved seat” at great expense to the cruising community.
Of course, the simple answer is for cruisers to avoid southern Florida and spend time elsewhere. However, as is so often the case, it’s not as simple as it might appear, especially if their cruising plans include the Bahamas. The reality of the Gulf Stream dictates that slower boats need to be at least as far south as Ft Lauderdale, or better yet, Miami, to be able to get a good angle to cross.
I fear that the opening of Cuba in the coming years with greater exposure to the “saved seat” mentality of many Americans, will cause the people of Cuba to be more like us than the other way around. That would be very unfortunate.
Perhaps by living in the “land of plenty” we have become too used to “having what we want, when we want it” without consideration of what that might mean to others.
In Cuba, well, it’s a bit different. The “meat counter”.
Or the produce department. And, that’s all of it.
And, the local deli selling sandwiches.
There is plenty that we American’s can learn from the people of Cuba but I fear that it’s the Cubans who will learn bad habits from us.
And, that night, we had a wonderful dinner with friends at a local spot a short walk from the Marina.
Brenda
Ok, now that that’s out of the way…
Papers signed, they boarded Pandora, in stocking feet of course, to confirm that we were not harboring any additional “stowaways”.
The excitement of the Cuban people as they look toward the future made our visit very timely and perhaps nothing illustrates the friendly people of Cuba better than this tiny fishing boat out for a day on the ocean. The crew ,as is always the case, waved enthusiastically as we sailed by.
The Frontera were called out to check on a small sailboat that someone thought was having trouble. They passed right by us however, for a moment, I did wonder if perhaps they would board us for one last look as we headed home.
So, off we headed for the 250 mile run to Ft Lauderdale. About ten miles outside we were visited by a “stowaway”, we thought might be attempting to emigrate to the U.S.. I don’t know what type of egret this was but he stood nearly two feet tall. We have been often visited by birds in the past but never by one as regal as this.
First he tried to perch on the lifelines, right outside of the cockpit, not 5 feet from us. Not too comfortable as Pandora pitched in the short steep chop.
Then, he tried clinging to the bouncing dink on the stern.
Finally, he settled down on the deck where he rested for the rest of the day.
We did what we could to avoid frightening him away until we had to tack near dusk. The banging of sails as we came about, proved too much for him so he headed the 50 miles back to Cuban soil. So much for international travel.
And, speaking of “before”, it’s doesn’t seem that long ago when the Soviet Union was such a big deal in Cuba. This was their embassy, or at least the most visible part of the huge compound.
Of course, what’s a post about Cuba without a few more cars. This is a really lovely convertible.
There are plenty of these funny little taxis. I don’t think that I’d like to be on a busy roadway in one of these. The “pilot” wears a helmet but not the passengers. I wonder if they know something that their customers don’t know? You think? Not the safest vehicles on the road.
It was fun to see these women dressed in traditional holiday garb. They pose for tourists in the most popular places. It looks like they were taking a rest and talking to a window washer. Or was he a mountain climber?
We have enjoyed visiting various bars in Havana. Here are a few “shots”, pun intended. No, we haven’t had drinks in ALL of them.
Can you say “dos Mojitos”?One cannot live on rum alone so we visited a pastry shop. It was jammed. Bread here is about $.40CUC per loaf. Very cheap. The sweets look better than they taste but are pretty good, never the less.
Brenda enjoyed buying some perfume in this place. The shop was in an old building with some lovely stained glass and an impressive courtyard.
We also happened on a funny little gun museum. It was a single room and featured mostly shotguns from around the world. A very eclectic mix. They also had a rifle purportedly owned by Che, the revolutionary and one of Castro’s buds. There are more photos of him around than of Fidel.
We never tired of the views down old streets.
Along the way we spied a local “artist” making things out of palm fronds. We were very impressed with his work. We have seen plenty of baskets in the Bahamas made from Palm fronds but nothing like this. Amazing work.
It’s remarkable what he was able to do with just a few fronds. This was his “display”. Amazing.
We loved it so much we got another after we had eaten dinner, just so we could watch him make it.


Then he made a grasshopper.
Dinner was not as memorable as the location. It was in an old printing factory or at least decorated to look the part. 
All and all, a wonderful few days in Havana but we are ready to “get out of Dodge” and back to the good old U.S. of A.
The foyer leads to a lovely rose petal strewn staircase with candles as you make your way upstairs.
The dining room is very intimate and appointed with some lovely antiques.
This is an amusing sign at the top of the stairs. The ballerina sort of reinforces the point, I guess.
Brenda recounted the experience, and menu, in a recent post. And, as she is much more of a “foodie” than I am, I’ll leave the
Without this sort of attention to detail, lovely work like this would be lost.
And, wonderful views wherever you turn.
Months ago, when we were planning our trip to Cuba, Brenda happened upon a blog post from an artist that had visited Havana a few years ago about a women who teaches bobbin lace here. Brenda’s hope/goal was to find this one woman in all of Havana when we got here and amazingly, she did. I enjoyed the interaction between the “ladies”.
Even though there was a significant language barrier, they clearly shared the language of “fiber”. Brenda has written about this and it’s
The printing press, in the back of the shop was donated by Unicef, we learned.
We loved this little piece and will hang it aboard Pandora as a reminder of our visit. The crescent shapes represent Cuba and the “people” figures, well they represent the people of Cuba. Having it aboard Pandora will be a tangible reminder of our wonderful time here in Cuba and the friendly people we have met along the way.
So, today we will book a flight for Brenda to get home from Ft Lauderdale next week and then head into Havana to visit the forts that line the harbor. I look forward to reporting on what will surely be a wonderful day.