When Brenda and I cruised the south coast of Cuba over the winter, we decided to take a land trip from Cienfuegos to Trinidad de Cuba.

Along the way, we witnessed a remarkable sight, the beginning of the annual migration of 100,000,000 Cuban land crabs (Gecarcinus ruricola) marching from their home in the mountains to the sea to lay their eggs.   As they near the end of their 6 mile journey, a particularly long way, it seems to me, for a critter that always walks sideways, they must cross a busy coastal road shortly before reaching their destination. What a sight as they scurry sideways, claws held menacingly skyward.

Unfortunately, I didn’t have an opportunity to stop and take photos that day as we crunched our way through along the road.   However, all is not lost as there are videos on YouTube about this and nearly every other topic that you could possibly imagine.

Along with touching crab videos, there are plenty to choose from that you’d probably want to skip.  However, you’ll have to wait a moment longer for a particularly poignant example of that ilk.  First, here’s a short and really fascinating, to me anyway, clip chronicling this remarkable migration to the sea.

You won’t believe just how many of these, not so little crabs, make their way from the mountains to the sea and back again each spring.  How about 100 million?   When we were there it was early in the season so the spectacle was limited to a road covered with mere thousands.  Plenty yuck enough, if you ask Brenda.   I understand that there are only a few places in the world where you can witness such a spectacle and Cuba is right up there.

And, if you happen to be lucky enough to have a home along their route, you’d find yourself with thousands of crabs “beating a pathway to your door”.  No, make that to your door, over your roof and down the other side, quite literally, each year.

So, if you happen to live in “crab city”, and double lucky you if you do, here’s a video of how you can prepare them for a nutritious meal, Cuban style.  And, of course, you’ll see that they are very much alive while you are “preparing” them.
No land crabs in your neighborhood?  Fear not.  And I expect you are at least as thankful as Brenda is for that as she’s more like “Julie” in the terrific movie “Julie and Julia“, when it comes to preparing “recalcitrant crustaceans”.  This “clip” from the movie offers a very personal take on preparing your own.  Familiar?  Of course, our heroine might have had a better time of it had she had just ripped off the legs and claws before putting them in the pot. Eeeewww!!!

Anyway, our visit to Trinidad de Cuba, as chronicled in this post, crabs aside, was wonderful and I encourage you to put it on your itinerary along with a bit of Gecarcinus ruricola salad (of course, that’s Cuban Land crab to the non Latin literate among us)  Yum…

So, there you have it.  just when you thought I had written on just about every imaginably inane topic… Scintillating detail about land crab migration and cooking instructions to boot.  Who knew?

It’s Memorial Day weekend and we are NOT out sailing aboard Pandora.  After a winter aboard we are both happy to hang out “on the hard” and enjoy some time at our “land home” here near the beautiful CT River.

As I was catching up on all of the snail mail that had piled up while we were afloat, and let me tell you that a LOT accumulated in the nearly 5 months we were away, I spied a reference to the winner of this year’s Lora Piana Caribbean Superyacht Regatta held in March.  The winner was P2, a boat that we had raced against two years ago in Newport.  When I say “we” I am referring to our time aboard the 182′ ketch that we were invited to sail aboard in that race that was held in Newport.

When we were aboard Marie, she was the LARGEST yacht in Newport Harbor and let me tell you, there are a LOT of REALLY BIG yachts in Newport.   Marie has done well on the superyacht racing  scene but not quite as well as P2, a really high tech composite yacht that we raced against.  So, what is a superyacht owner to do when they loose a race to another?  You buy her, of course.

It it seems that P2, which we spied in Ft Lauderdale this winter, has been sold, to none other than Ed, the owner of Marie.   Here’s a recent shot of P2 that I snagged from Boat International magazine‘s description of P2.  The shot was taken in Ft Lauderdale near the Los Olas bridge.  This is a remarkable boat if you can call a 150’ yacht a boat.  Hey wait, Pandora looks a bit like her.  Right?  Well Pandora looks like at a minuscule 47′ version if you squint your eyes really, really tight.  Perhaps Pandora could be a tender to P2, a really little one.   Here’s an idea.  As Ed still owns Marie, his 180′ ketch, he can use her as a tender, or perhaps a better description would to call her a “hotel”, when Ed is out on P2, doing her stuff, tearing up the racing circuit.

Here’s a video of P2.  What an amazing boat!  Ed’s growing “collection” of yachts also includes an earlier build, his “smallest” superyacht, the mere 110′ Tenacious which you can charter alone or as part of a package including his private island in the Exuma Chain in the Bahamas, Over Yonder Cay.   Tenacious, compared to Marie and P2, is diminutive (HA!) at a mere 110′. However, like her big sister, she has a brace of cannon aboard and Ed isn’t bashful about using them when the mood strikes and it does often.

Here’s a video of Tenacious filmed along with  his island, Over Yonder Cay.  Check out the bright yellow seaplane, which I just love, that will whisk you there to begin your charter.  That wonderful yellow seaplane was there when Brenda and I visited Over Yonder this winter.  She’s quite a machine.   Here’s some highlights from our visit, including the main house which we toured on our last visit, a few years ago that occupies the highest point in the Exuma chain with remarkable views.

I just came across this new video of OYC.   And yes, OYC is really is as nice as the video suggests.
How about a video of Marie sailing shortly after her launch in the Netherlands a few years ago.  The audio is a mix of, I think Dutch, and some English. It’s a great tour of the boat too.  I’d say that she is still the “Queen” of Ed’s growing “fleet”.Alas, she’s just not quite as fast as the carbon fiber P2.  Here’s a video of the race we were “in” where P2 beat Marie.
Being the generous guy that he is, Ed will give you the opportunity to charter P2 and perhaps win a few races yourself.  Here’s the charter page for P2, so get on it!

I thought that this article from Boat International about Ed and his two “old” yachts, Marie and Tenacious was interesting.  Perhaps they will want to interview him again now that he owns P2 as well.

So, after coming to grips that there was a yacht with a better racing history than Marie, Ed what every racer wants to do, but usually can’t, he bought the boat that beat him.  Of course, if you can’t beat em, buy em.  And, if you want to know what it cost…   And, if you have to ask, well you can’t afford it.

But wait, there’s more.  If Ed loves sailing he’s also pretty happy to spend time around vintage airplanes and is a benefactor to a museum in Texas The Texas Flying Legends.  I found this article from a publication Warbird News that provides a good amount of information about the museum’s “fleet”.

I did a post a while back about The Texas Flying Legends and an airshow that they put on in St Barths.  In that post, I mentioned that Marie was kept at Over Yonder but was wrong.  It’s Tenacious that’s there.  It was a fun post so I won’t fix the mistake.  Call it “editorial license”.

Perhaps I’ll close, on this Labor Day Weekend, with a fitting tribute to the men that flew these amazing warbirds and sacrificed so much to allow us to have the freedom that we all enjoy today.

 I will be writing a number of articles and giving a few talks about our visit to Cuba over last winter. I thought that it might be fun to share a draft of one of these articles with you.  It includes a number of links to prior posts, both Brenda’s and mine.

So, here goes…

Since the 1950s and the beginning of the US trade embargo, Cuba has been largely off limits to Americans.  This, combined with very limited capital for investment, has made for a country that has been, in large part, “frozen in time”.  To visit Cuba now is akin to taking a step back into the Caribbean of the 1940s and the time of Hemingway.

Brenda and I have wanted to visit Cuba for many years and as relations between our two countries have begun to thaw, we decided to “jump the gun”, before things really begin to change, and head there aboard Pandora for an extended two month visit in early 2016.

Receiving needed approvals to visit Cuba for an extended visit from “Uncle Sam” proved to be quite tedious and involved nearly six months of research and much back and forth with three government agencies, Commerce, State and the USCG.   Finding someone to insure Pandora during our visit was not finally resolved until a few days before we headed to Cuba from the Bahamas.

The US government currently allows Americans to visit for twelve reasons, with a journalism general license the “reason” we chose.   As part of this effort, Brenda’s goal was to better understand the fiber arts of Cuba, of which little has been published.  In particular, she wanted to find one particular woman in Havana who had been featured in another American’s blog post several years ago and, believe it or not she found her.  This is Brenda and “the girls”.  Cuba is a large island, much bigger than most realize, over 600 miles long, and our trip long took us along the entire south coast and a good portion of the north coast.    Along the way we found ourselves about 100 miles, a mere overnight run, from Jamaica, The Caiman Islands and Cancun on the Yucatan peninsula.  All much closer than most realize and as Cuba becomes more open, this will likely change cruiser’s perspective of what it is to visit “the Caribbean”.    The ability to use Cuba as a jumping off place to Central and South America, will make the western Caribbean much more accessible to Americans than has been the case for a great many years.

Visiting Cuba isn’t for the “faint of heart” as there are very limited services and even fewer marinas, especially along the less traveled south coast.  This combined with the requirements of the Guarda Frontera, a sort of military coast guard that makes you check in and out of most of your stops along the way can make it challenging at times for those of us who are used to going where we want, when we want to go.  However, if you can make a point of learning to “go with the flow” you will probably find the process quite straight forward and perhaps even charming.   And, finding internet access can be remarkably frustrating as it’s mostly available in government run tourist hotels.  In one case, we actually took a horse and buggy to check our e-mail.   Talk about culture shock.Our travels brought us south through the Bahamas to Georgetown and then a three day run south traversing the Windward Passage, past Haiti, around the eastern tip of Cuba and west to our port of entry, Santiago de Cuba.    The process of clearing in with Pandora and getting our Visas approved was quite an experience.   We both wrote posts about this and our visit to the city of Santiago de Cuba.

Of course, everyone thinks of vintage American Cars and remarkable Colonial architecture when they think of Cuba and we saw plenty throughout the country.The Cubans we spoke to were very excited about Obama coming to Cuba, which occurred while we were in Cuba, and many voiced hope that much good will come from his visit as they took on a greater role on the world stage.  And speaking of “stage” what a trip going to the Rolling Stones concert was.  You might enjoy Brenda’s take on that.  What a hoot!

However, when you get right down to it, the most remarkable part of visiting Cuba for us was the people.  We loved spending time with them, especially in the most rural areas.   Brenda did a wonderful job of describing what this was like.  I struggled to capture what made Cuba such a remarkable place for us to visit.  This post was my attempt to capture this spirit.

All and all, there is really no better way to visit Cuba than to cruise the coast and now is the time as it won’t be long until it changes forever.  The pristine reefs, the dramatic scenery and, most of all, the people are remarkable.  Don’t miss out.

I find it fascinating to me, how my “random” mix of posts has lead to some very interesting opportunities over the years.  And, as is the case with life in general, they always pop up at the most unexpected times.    Case and point:  The recent post about my “up close and personal” sighting of a humpback whale on our run home from Florida this week seems to have opened yet another “door” to an opportunity that I didn’t even know existed.   Let me explain…

In that post, I was trying to make the point that sometimes I loose sight, when I am underway aboard Pandora and, I suppose, in life in general,  that if I stop and look,  I’d realize that I have already arrived, a twist on the oft quoted and perhaps equally trite “the journey is it’s own reward”.

I wrote about an amazing interaction with a Humpback Whale near the Hudson Canyon, about 100 miles east of New York.   The canyon was cut in the continental shelf about 10,000 years ago during the last ice age when sea levels were some 400 feet lower than they are today. 400′ lower?  And we are worried sick about a change in sea levels of a few feet.   During the last ice age, and it wasn’t the first one, all that water ended up as ice and snow that piled up over a period of thousands of years.  Yikes, I’ll bet that would cause quite a run on snowblowers at Home Depot.  Thinking ahead, I wonder if Al Gore has invested any of his speaking fees on Global Warming in Home Depot stock. Perhaps not as he seems pretty sure that it’s going to get a lot warmer before it begins to get colder.   Canoes anyone?  Anyway, I digress.

So, after I put up that post, I put a near breathless link to my blog on Facebook about my sighting.  So, what happens?   The next day I get a comment on my blog from someone at NOAA.    No, not the “other” Noah, the “40 days and 40 nights” Ark Noah?  I get a comment from someone with the Woods Hole NOAA, the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration.  You know, the folks that brought you the Titanic, well at least photos of the Titanic?

Anyway, my first reaction when I saw the message was that I was about to get scolded for harassing cetaceans and reminding me that I should keep a safe distance.   My many experiences, over the years, of being warned to stay away from naval vessels conducting exercises, has made me wary of such things.  Sort of akin to receiving a dreaded letter from the IRS. “It has come to our attention…”

Fortunately, it was nothing of the sort.  The correspondence was from a Nathalie (her real name) who runs a Caribbean program for tracking migration patterns of humpback whales.  Sounds like a pretty good gig, if you ask me.   “Sorry honey, I’ll be away on on a business trip WORKING IN THE CARIBBEAN on your birthday.  I promise to make it up to you, really.”  This program, which she manages, enlists the help of cruisers in keeping track of migrating humpbacks.

So, Nathalie it seems, is also a “snowbird”,sort of like me and Brenda, splitting her time between the eastern Caribbean and Woods Hole.  Humpback whales  travel from the Gulf of Maine to the Caribbean and back, every year.  And, some of them (the whales) also take trips across the Atlantic to the Cape Verde Islands.  Here’s a map of humpback migration patterns from the NOAA site.  Want to read more? Click here for the full PDF. I have an idea…. “Brenda?  How about we follow migrating humpback whales east too?  It’s not that far, just a quick jaunt to the Cape Verde Islands.  We could duplicate the migration patterns of Megaptera novaeangliae.”  Brenda majored in Latin and Greek so she’ll know exactly what that means.   “You know, NOAA needs us to do this.  The future health of the humpback whale population may depend on it!   And besides, the Cape Verdes, well they look pretty close on the map.  And as you see, they aren’t far from Africa at all.  Want to go to Africa too?   We’d almost be there by that point.  Besides, I like to eat and look at all the feeding areas.  And, they have “OTHER” areas (in yellow) too.   That’s always fun.”  “Down boy, down boy, get a grip Bob”  “Oh…” (he says dejectedly)

I cribbed this image from caribtails.org, a site managed by NOAA, supporting an organized effort, with cruisers like us, designed to track and identify individual humpbacks and to better understand their lives and travels.  It seems that whales have the same travel plans as me and Brenda for this year and next.  What a coincidence! “I love Maine!  Brenda, let’s go there too!”

Each whale has a unique pattern of tail fluke markings that allows the identification of individuals.  Who knew?  NOAA’s site has a number of good resources including some tips on how to have the best experience for you and the whale as well as some suggestions on how to get good photos.  Their fluke markings are as distinctive as our fingerprints.  Here’s two examples from NOAA of how different they can be. 

I am hoping that my photo, not taken from the best angle I now know might not be sharp enough to be identified in their database.    It would be terrific if I could learn more about “my whale” and where she/he has been sighted.  If he’s “new to science” perhaps they will name him “Bob” or her, “Bobbie”,  Perhaps I am getting ahead of myself.  “Yes, Bob, totally!”  Anyway, if the photo doesn’t check out, perhaps Brenda and I will get another chance to see her/him next winter in the Caribbean.

That would be just so great and I can’t wait for another opportunity to holler “thar she blows”.  And, now I know that she’s also blowing “thar and thar” as they make their way north and south with the seasons.

“Brenda, we need a new camera!  We absolutely MUST be prepared!”

So, there you have it.   A chance sighting of a whale on my way north this week has opened a door at NOAA.   How cool is that?  Perhaps I’ll get a tour.   Yes, that would be fun.

You just never know where life will lead.  I guess I might also get hit by a truck today.  No, I’m going with this, for now instead.

Yeah, this is way better, for sure.

 

 

Well, that’s it, I am in home waters again and a winter of sailing aboard Pandora’s finis.  Pandora’s voyage down the east Coast, to the Bahamas, around much of the coast of Cuba, back to Florida and then to CT is said and done and she’s tied up at the Essex Yacht Club for a day or two.   And speaking of Cuba, which I have in nauseating detail for months now, if you haven’t noticed.  Did you know that you can fit all of the islands in the ENTIRE Caribbean into Cuba and that island is still bigger?  It’s huge, nearly 600 miles long and Brenda and I sailed the entire length of it and then some.   You go girl!!!

I’d have to check my log but I believe that the trip put about 4,000 miles on Pandora this season.  It doesn’t seem like that long ago, another lifetime though, when it would have taken me several years to make that sort of distance.  Such is the grey and colorless life of the retired. 

Anyway, it was some winter afloat but it’s done.  This is the sight that greeted me as I passed the light at the entrance of the CT River yesterday afternoon as if to say “welcome home Pandora”.  She too (if lighthouses are feminine) is showing a bit of wear and tear, just like me, Brenda and Pandora after a winter on the move. She still looks great, present company included. I think it’s safe to say that a trip like ours (Brenda’s and mine) was a lot like life in general.  There are times when you say “pinch me, I must be dreaming, but in a good way” and there are others when something more akin to “I want to be home in my own bed.  Waaaaaa!!!!”  And sometimes, when cruising on a small boat, it really seems that the latter wins the day.

So, if you followed my, sort of, daily posts from Pandora’s passage from Florida back to CT over the last week, you got a taste of what passage making can be like. That run had something for everybody including the sort of moments that everybody should experience along with the sort of moments that everybody spends their lives trying to avoid.  You know the “into every life a little rain must fall” things?

With so many experiences to recall from the winter and the monotony that comes along with a long passage, I began to feel like “OK, let’s get this over with” as we were near the Hudson Canyon, about 100 miles southwest of Montauk.  And, by this point, my thoughts were turning to “just how long is the grass in my lawn?” with the experiences of the winter fading into memory.

So, get this!  We were motoring along over an ocean so calm that it looked more like a windless August afternoon in western Long Island Sound than the “big bad ocean” that we had experienced just the day before.

I had decided to take advantage of the calm conditions to make a nice dinner of roasted pork tenderloin and a salad with some of Brenda’s great “Home afloat” made dressing.  Me, Dave and Chris had just finished a nice cold beer and dinner and we were congratulating ourselves about what a great passage we had together when a few hundred yards off I spotted a humpback whale.  I couldn’t believe it.  Sure, we had seen our share of wildlife on this trip, including distant sightings of other whales and I close, if all to brief, encounter with a pilot whale, but I had not seen a humpback whale since our years cruising in Maine and NEVER had I seen one this close up.

I slowed Pandora and turned her around and headed back for a closer look.  We could see that “she” and I’ll call her that because something that beautiful has to be a woman.  And don’t get into the whole “Bob, it takes two to tango” and make more whales.   Just go with me on this for now…

Anyway, as we approached her, and she was going nowhere fast, just lounging on the surface blowing bubbles.  I cut the engine and let Pandora’s momentum carry us near. Then a lazy wave to Pandora as though to suggest “come hither”.She started toward us.  Yikes! She’s huge and nearly as long as Pandora.“Calm down Bob, it’s fine.”  Let’s all take a deep breath.   The moment was absolutely still except the loud rush of air of her breathing.  I can tell you that she was all alone with the “whole breathing thing” as Pandora’s crew wasn’t taking a single breath lest we spoil the moment.  Showing her stuff, warts and all.  What a sight.  And just so, so close.So, after perhaps 15 minutes… And it felt like an hour as we gawked in wonder at the sight.  She headed slowly off, literally into the sunset.Her tail gracefully and with complete silence…Slipped under the oil calm surface…And, she was gone…“Holy S%$#.   Did you see that Chris, Dave?”  Yes we did…

Dave, as I wrote in a recent post, had remarked that perhaps the best reason to make a passage like we did on Pandora, is to be able to have experiences that most will never see and I think it’s safe to say that seeing this whale, this amazing creature, is a perfect example of why I love being on the water.

And, the next time I find myself thinking “This totally sucks” when we are being pounded by a squall, I’ll have to remind myself of this amazing moment and remember that in life, when you come down to it, you just never know what lies ahead.   And I for one, intend to make the most of it.  So far, so good.    Wow!

As I reflect on the experiences of our months afloat this winter, this brief encounter, in the company of one of God’s most amazing creatures, is a fitting end to a remarkable journey.  And the next time you find yourself wondering “Are we there yet”, think again, as you may have already arrived.

There’s so much more to tell, and like it or not, I’ll be droning on and on about much more in coming posts, but perhaps I’ll just leave it there for now.

A fitting end to an amazing journey.But stay tuned.  There’s much more to come, much more.

Next winter?  The eastern Caribbean.   Now that should be a trip.

Time to cut the lawn.