Sail Pandora

February 2018

It’s windy in paradise. What’s a cruiser to do?

While many of my friends are freezing up in the northeast, we are still here in St Ann Martinique, unable to move, after nearly a week of quite strong winds.   It’s ironic that the sun is out, it’s beautiful with occasional brief showers and yet we can’t go anywhere.   And, there are hundreds of boats that feel about the same way.  Nobody is moving, waiting for a lull in the winds to head off to their next stop, either south or north.

At this point it looks like the wind will begin to slacken in a few days but by that time it will be too close to our departure this weekend to make leave St Ann.  In addition, I am still messing around trying to find someone to keep an eye on Pandora while we leave her on a mooring for the two weeks we will be away.

I have someone to talk to later today who has offered to watch her here in St Ann, but that means leaving her on anchor for the duration and I am not sure of what I think of that option.  The difficulty of trying to figure the do with her for a short two week stretch, has made me leery of what will be involved in leaving her for many months down in Grenada or Trinidad.  I am not sure that I have the energy to do that so perhaps it’s best to just bite the bullet and bring her home to CT in the spring.  Besides, I enjoy working on the boat and I’d surely go into withdraw if I had to be away from Pandora from May to the end of the year.  Besides, perhaps I can sneak away for a few short cruises over the summer.   Fingers crossed.

The good news is that my crew for May, George and Bob seem flexible on my ultimate destination, which is good.

So, back to it’s windy and we can’t leave?   What’s a cruiser to do?

In the world of cruisers, where it takes a whole morning to check email, shop for groceries or do laundry, there seems to be plenty to do to keep busy in spite of the fact that we can’t go anywhere.

As I wrote recently, the local cruiser’s community gathers at least once a week for a pot luck and they just announced a second event for this week, on Wednesday.  We participated in last Friday’s event and it was fun to visit with others for a few hours.   There was a communal grill for us to grill our meat and everyone brought some sort of side dish to share.

There was a really good turnout. One couple even provided some music to set the mood.   Their choice of instruments really set the mood and was a good example of the diversity of the cruising community.Cruisers helping cruisers is the norm just about everywhere and St Ann is no different.   Cruisers are always quick to lend tools of do whatever they can to “pay it forward” and help others.

As I mentioned in my last post, James on Sophie lent me a heat gun, which was invaluable for installing the mast head light.   One way that everyone stays in touch about helping out, sharing ideas and hooking up with others is on the local morning VHF radio net held three days a week.   Brenda and I know that it can be tough to get parts or mail letters back to the US so on today’s net I offered to take any mail to post when we get home.   I also know how tough it can be to get obscure parts in the islands and offered to bring small packages back when we return in early March.  So far, I have been contacted by three cruisers who are looking for help, which is good.  I expect that others will contact us in the next few days.  I am happy to help as others have helped me in the past.

So, back to what’s going on and how a “pinned down cruiser” keeps busy.  As luck would have it, this week is Carnival here in Martinique and St Ann and the locals were sure not to be left out.   There was a very enthusiastic band playing local music.  They even set up a large tent and chairs for the audience to enjoy the music and stay out of the tropical sun.   Elsewhere in Martinique there are parades and a lot more going on but St Ann is trying hard to make it fun.

Later today, if I even finish this posts as getting good Internet isn’t so easy here, I am going to check out renting a car for tomorrow so we can tour the island with another couple who cruised here from Maine.

Perhaps I’ll close of a photo of Pandora sailing along the leeward side of Dominica last week by our friends on Raven. If only every day here could be like that day.    For now, one thing is for sure, that being pinned down in paradise is surely better than being “brr” up north, that’s for sure.

So, what’s a cruiser to do?   I guess I’ll just have to go for a swim this afternoon to wash out the shampoo.   Besides, I do have to stay clean.  Right?  And, I just have to stay busy.

Taking boat repair to new heights

You know the phrase “cruising is nothing more than boat repair in exotic places”?   Well, to torture that phrase a bit, yesterday it was like “cruising aboard Pandora is taking boat repair to new heights”.

On my run south from CT in November the mast top tri-color stopped working, along with other miscellaneous items aboard Pandora.    As the say, “it’s always something” so I purchased a new Signal Mate masthead unit  over the holidays.  It’s a pretty elegant unit sold as water tight.   Ha!   Water tight?  When I took the old unit down it had enough water in it to actually slosh around.   Not good.

Anyway, I was lucky to have the problem crop up before I headed home from Antigua as a few days ago the integrated anchor light in the unit failed as well and as we nearly always anchor out, having a functioning mast top anchor light is critical.

I have been meaning to swap out the old unit for the last month but have continually put it off because of rough anchorages or heavy winds.  However, once the anchor light went I had to deal with it.

The problem is that the winds have been really piping up lately and the idea of being at the top of a 65′ mast in heavy winds, trying to deal with tiny screws, butt connectors and heat shrink tubing, all at the top of a mast, exposed to winds, left me a little, well, not happy.  And, add to that, the fact that I don’t like heights.

Additionally,  I had no idea of how I was going to use a torch to shrink wrap the connection after I finished the job in all that wind.

Have you ever watched a space walk and marveled at how slowly and deliberately the astronauts do their jobs, planning, practicing and planning again to be sure that they have the right tools, steps and process worked out?

No, working on Pandora’s mast top isn’t a spacewalk but it isn’t a “walk in the park” either.  By the time you get up to the top of the mast you don’t want to have to head back down because of a missing screwdriver.  And, to drop a wrench from that height would surely mean a lost tool or worse, a broken hatch.

So, every tool had to be attached to my bosun’s chair by a rope lanyard and placed in the proper pocket to allow me to do the job without tangling the various lines attached to each tool.

Brenda has pulled me up the mast many times over the years and I completely trust her.  We had worked out the process in great detail as there was no way that I could hear her response to any of my questions.

Here I am all (snug?) at the top of Pandora’s mast.  Note the extension cord for the heat gun bowing out in the wind.  The steps…

  1. prepare new masthead unit
  2. pre-attach butt connectors and position shrink wrap tube
  3. arrange 100′ of extension cord to power heat shrinker
  4. head up the mast
  5. collect self and stop shaking from the force of the wind
  6. Tip head back to get brim of hat out of face due to strong wind
  7. try not to look down!
  8. strip wires on mast cable
  9. Caulk out of pocket and remove cap
  10. apply caulk under new unit
  11. cap back on caulk tube and back in pocket
  12. try to fasten with two screws (of course, the didn’t quite line up)  try that with a screw driver attached to a lanyard where the line wraps around and around as screw is driven
  13.  try to line up second screw
  14. again
  15. and again
  16. look at hands now covered with white caulk
  17. wipe caulk off on shirt
  18. tighten screws, finally
  19. “dry test” connections
  20. Brenda turns on mast unit (it worked!)
  21. Brenda turns off unit.  Thumbs up from Brenda to confirm power off
  22. Crimp connector positioned (almost dropped crimper as knot came untied)
  23. re-tie crimper with one free hand and teeth.  Whew!
  24. crimp all three butt connectors
  25. slip shrink tube over connectors
  26. Brenda turns on inverter to power heat gun
  27. use electric heat gun to shrink covering on wire
  28. Brenda turns off inverter so I won’t set the bosun’s chair in fire by accident
  29.  Brenda begins to lower me to deck.
  30. I wave “stop, stop!”  lanyards holding tools are now tangled in backstay and threaten to pull all tools out of the pockets on bosun’s chair.
  31. Ok, all set.  Brenda lowers me to deck.
  32. I kiss deck…

Too much detail you say?  Imagine doing this in a vacuum and with no gravity?   Don’t I look comfy up there?Finally, after about 45 minutes.   Done!  Now, wasn’t that easy?

Imagine doing that in deep space in zero gravity.   It was plenty hard with so many deliberate steps but it was surely easier for me than the folks on the space station.

Anyway, cruising is surely all about fixing boats in exotic places and after yesterday I’ll surely do what I can to be sure that I do the “fixin” when the wind is calm.  Well, at least when I can.

Just to be clear, it’s not always hard.   Here’s me and Brenda enjoying the Superbowl last weekend.   And, I don’t even like football.

Speaking of fun times, we’ll be heading home to the US for a two week visit in about a week.   Can’t wait to see our family and our granddaughter Tori.  She’s getting big.  One more thing…

Tori is “expecting” to be the sister of twins in August.   (note the wording on her shirt)  Good luck to her parents Rob and Kandice.   Can you say “where’s my nanny?”

How we get around, or don’t…

Well, we are still here in Martinique, splitting our time between the busy harbor of Le Marin and the more quiet nearby St Ann.   Both have their charm but the water is clearer and the town much more charming in St Ann so here we are in St Ann again.

Le Marin, I am told, boasts the largest harbor and marina in the Windward Islands.  I believe it.  The harbor is a sea of masts with dockage for something like 1,000 boats (Med Moor) and 100 moorings.   It’s been both sunny and rainy for the last week or so with a seemingly constant parade of showers every few hours interspersed by intense beating tropical sun.  Rain or not, the sun outweighs the rain many times over.  At night we are often awakened by a pounding rain that requires us to jump up and close the hatches.

Rain or shine, the silver lining is that each daytime shower is followed by a rainbow, or two.   This one greeted us this morning shortly after sunrise.Many cruisers love St Ann and it seems, hang out here for months at a time as evidenced by the algae growing on their anchor snubber lines, a sure sign that they haven’t moved for quite some time.

I have posted photos of some remarkable boats over the years so perhaps it’s time to post photos of some more humble ways to get around on the water.

How about this?  Care to speculate on what this is all about?   More to the point, which end is the bow?   Try the “blunt” end to the left.  See the pilot’s head sticking out of the top?Laqua Scope?  How about a “glass bottom boat”.  Viewed from the bow?, you can sort of see the large glass portholes in the center hull.   This contraption gave tours of the harbor, teeming with sea turtles, to all comers.   It was out and about all day long ziging and zaging past dozens of snorkelers, including me.   Want to go for a spin?  Check out this on Trip Adviser.If you followed my posts last winter you saw a photo of one of these “donut boats” from France.  They come complete with a grill, outboard motor and umbrella.    Admit it, you need one of these.  Besides, they hold ten.   Personally, I can’t imagine admitting to ten friends that I have one.    I wonder where the 10 PFDs go.This boat proves, once and for all, that anyone can start a business as long as they are creative about it.   How about the appropriately named “pizza boat” a mobile pizza oven on a catamaran?   Brenda’s wondering if it’s safe to move about with a huge 500 degree oven and loads of compressed flammable gas.Of course, like many cruising grounds, it’s important to pick your time to cruise in the right season.    It seems like just about every harbor has at lease one of these “parked” on the beach.  In this case, it’s right up against someone’s home on.  Nice view.
Of course, if you are in a big hurry to get there, the Prince de Cancale, is for you.   There are ton of really racy looking cats and tris in French waters to choose from.  She’s had a very active racing career most recently sporting the colors below.  With all the sponsor graphics, I had a hard time figuring out what the name of the boat was.  I guess she’s done well as she has a lot of sponsors.   This link shows her in all her various colors over the years.  She looks like a screamer with a very successful career since her launching in 2010.  She’s currently on a mooring in Le Marin awaiting her next race.Of course, to simply mess about in boats, or water, all you really need is your dad.  Don’t want to risk your feet in the water?  He can pull you along with your older sister pulling guard duty.  One way or the other, there are a LOT of boats around these parts and as these photos show, they come in all sizes, colors and some aren’t even able to hold the water out.

OK, there you have it.   A post of little importance.  But hey, it’s about boats.

Oh yeah, one more thing.  I have been having problems with my site, in particular, with the “new post alert” function.  It’s being fixed, for a fee, or might be already, so if you had signed up to get alerts, do it again soon as the “tech” is going to delete you and the 8,000 phony “followers” that have signed up over the last few months so we can set things right.

If you are a “real” reader, I so hope that you will re-subscribe and continue along with me.

 

St Ann Martinique. Where cruisers come to play.

It’s Sunday morning and we are still here in St Ann.  Actually, we have decided that we were going to head home for two weeks in late February and are working out the logistics of keeping the boat here as well as what we are going to do to occupy ourselves for the next two weeks before we leave.

Also, as we now have what is, among the cruising community, the strongest magnetic pull home, a grandchild, we have begun thinking about how to continue cruising as well as not be away from family for months at a time.  This is a “universal problem” within the cruising community and each time we meet folks and talk about family visits, they always comment that grand children “can really cramp your cruising style”.  Yes, that appears to be the case for us too.

So, what’s the solution?  Put the boat up on the hard with all the other boats in New England and give up winters afloat?  Not appealing!   Actually, this is complicated by the fact that we really love being home in the summer and personally, I hate cold weather so sailing to Maine in the summer, as great as that would be, would keep us home in the winter.  Not my first choice.

Anyway, there are lots of details to work out and one option is to leave Pandora in Grenada for the summer.   I’ll admit that it’s a real drag running her back and forth to CT and it puts a LOT of wear and tear on the boat and me too.  We have met many cruisers that use their boats over the winter and leave them south for the summer so perhaps that’s an option.

Yes, it will some time to get the boat settled for a long summer in the tropics, but that can’t be much worse than a 1,500 mile schlep north and south with Pandora.

Anyway, this is a nice problem to have so I’ll have to begin checking options.

So, back to St Ann.  Yesterday was market day here and everyone, tourists and vendors alike, were out in force.  St Ann is a small coastal village that is focused on tourists and it’s very charming.   There are a few small groceries and a really wonderful bakery serving up breads and pastries of every description.

I always enjoy seeing what sorts of fish are offered up in markets.   This vendor had a mix of what looked like large, colorful, “aquarium fish” including a few impressive brown spotted moray eels.   We have noticed a lot of fishing floats as we sailed where the water is 100′ deep or less.  I expect that they are fish traps.  Lion fish, an accidental invasive import from SE Asia have decimated the reefs in all areas of the Caribbean and are becoming a popular food fish.  This shot isn’t very clear but it’s a pile of Lion fish.    I have speared a few in the Bahamas and they are indeed very tasty.  You have to be very careful of their colorful spines as they are venomous and very painful if you are pricked by one. The market has a very festive atmosphere with vendors selling most anything from T shirts to spices.  There was a fun Caribbean band playing that livened up things nicely. It’s amazing to see the wide variety of spices and liquors that are available here.  Hey, perhaps that’s why these islands are known as the “spice islands”.  It must take hours to set all this up for sale.
The center of the town is dominated by the Catholic Church.  Oops, crooked photo.  Fire that photo editor!!!  It’s lovely, the church, not the photo, if you” get the picture”.   From the outside, it’s stone.  Inside, an impressive use of timber.  I mentioned that there are something like 350 boats anchored off of the beach here and where cruisers congregate they get together for meals and “sundowners”.   The same day we arrived we were invited to a beach barbecue by a friend who’s been coming here for years.   They get together at noon each Friday for a cookout.  The folks here seem to know each other well and are from all over.   Nice group.
Well, that’s about it for now.   Lots to think about for the rest of the season and next year’s cruising plans, such as they are.   For sure, St Ann will continue to be on cruiser’s plans as it does have a lot to offer.  Nice spot.

For Pandora and her crew, plenty of details to come, as always.  For now, enjoying the sights of St Ann.

An artist that paints with foliage and flowers

We are still in Martinique, having arrived here in St Ann on the southern side of the island yesterday.  It’s a huge anchorage with something like 350 boats visiting and there’s still plenty of room for more.   St. Ann is a resort area complete with long sandy beaches and nice places to eat out nearby.  Very charming.

It’s also adjacent to the largest protected harbor in the Windward Islands, Le Marin.   That’s good as we have decided to head home for a “grandaughter fix” for two weeks in late February.   That will be fun as we haven’t seen Rob, Kandice and “not quite as little” Tori for way too long.

Anyway, here we are and it’s clear why this place is so popular.  It’s going to be hard to leave.  Besides, it has the best French bakery we’ve seen so far this season.  Yum…

Back to the subject of this post.   When we were in Fort de France, the capitol of Martinique, we decided to visit a botanical garden, a short bus ride from the city, Jardin de Balata.   Interestingly, it is located on the property of the owner’s family home and while the family doesn’t live there any more, it is now operated as a for-profit enterprise.  It’s beautifully done and unlike many of the gardens we have visited, this one is set up more like series of landscape paintings.  It’s a little hard to explain but you really do feel like you are walking through a series of paintings and less like a garden.

As you enter the gardens you are greeted by a riot of humming birds that are only a few feet away dive bombing each other to get their turn at the feeder. This is the view as you enter the garden.  Beautifully arranged and very inviting. In the distance mountains give scale to the garden nestled in between valleys. With views of the ocean just outside the harbor where we were anchored. The way that the “artist” as he’s described in the audio tour, used plants to create visual patterns, like this row of palms, is stunning.  From another angle it looks very different.   The close cropped grass and moss looked like green velvet.How about a view from the treetops?  Prefer terra-firma?  Even up close, everything was perfect.  Everywhere I looked called out as a wonderful photo like this bamboo lining a path. I loved the visual patterns. Some so tiny you’d miss them if you didn’t look closely.
Wonderful patterns in the foliage.  Clusters of colorful bromeliads growing on a trunk of a tree fern.
Fiddle heads, destined to tower over your head, emerging as thick as your wrist. Ferns so large you expect to see T Rex in the distance.  Wonderful mix of textures and colors.
Glorious subtle patterns of green. Serene water lilies facing the morning sun. Everywhere plants competing for space, constantly adjusted to perfection by the gardeners. Flowers so perfect they don’t look real.    This one stands shoulder height and is the size of a melon.
Hard to imagine that this is real. And, the familiar. Some much more dainty but equally beautiful.All and all, a wonderful place and unlike any other garden we have visited.  Very “painterly” where the plants are the artist’s medium to create his ever changing palate.

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