Sail Pandora

May 2013

Marsh Harbor to Essex. Off to a great start.

It’s 09:30 on Sunday morning and we are sailing along in a moderate breeze of 11-14kts.   The winds are on our beam as they have been for the entire trip.  Amazingly, we left Marsh Harbor yesterday at 11:00 under sail and are still sailing some 20 hours later.   The only time we used the engine was for getting out of the harbor and for a short time leaving the Whale Cay Cut as we entered the ocean.  As anyone who sails would know, it’s usually inevitable that the winds will be unfavorable most of the time, regardless of where you are going.  I feel pretty lucky to have what looks like forecasted generally favorable winds for the bulk of our trip and really great winds so far.One of my concerns in leaving Marsh Harbor was transiting near Whale Cay Cut, a notoriously nasty piece of water where the depth goes from thousands to around 20′ in a few miles.  This causes any waves to pile up as they get closer to shore.  This recent post talks in some detail about the cut.  Happily, the sea swells yesterday, and today on the ocean, for that matter, are in the 3′ range so leaving the cut was a cinch.  Great luck there too.

As I write this we are about 150 nautical miles north of Marsh harbor which translates into an average over the bottom speed of about 7kts.  This takes into account the fact that we spent a good deal of last night in a gulf stream counter current or eddy which was flowing against us, sometimes more than a knot and for perhaps 8 hours we had a current in the 2 knot range pushing us toward the west.  This meant that we had adjust our heading further to the east to compensate for the westward set. Heading closer to the wind, as we compensated for the current, actually helped our speed as it put us on close reach, with the wind somewhat forward of the beam, increasing our speed into the moderate easterly winds.

Conventional wisdom suggests that you should head west from the Abacos and join up with the Gulf Stream to gain as much help from the northerly current that runs up to 4 knots, as you head up the coast.   In our case, Chris Parker, the weather router, suggested a course that stayed well east of the stream and due north as that heading would cut off as much as 100 miles from our trip.  It just didn’t make sense, with the forecasted winds,  to head west to the stream and then north to our destination.

So, for now, we are continuing north to a point just southeast of Cape Hatteras where we will join the gulf stream, take advantage of that current for a time and then jump out a few hundred miles north of that point and head to Montauk.

Chris, Ian and I have settled in nicely to what will likely be about a week on board with time spent keeping watch , reading and sleeping.  Oh yea, and don’t want to forget the eating part.  I made fresh biscuits for breakfast today.  In spite of some slightly queasy stomachs for Chris and Ian, they forced them down without a moment’s hesitation.   As usual, I am blessed with a cast iron stomach and, knock on wood, I haven’t had any problems with nausea yet on this.  Of course, it’s pretty calm out here so fingers crossed that my good luck will continue.

Our watch schedule (we have to be sure that someone is on deck all the time, night and day) is pretty simple.  From 08:00 to 20:00, when it’s light, the watch is informal as everyone is on deck enjoying the scenery, such as it is, with miles of water in every direction, punctuated by an occasional school of flying fish.    After 20:00 hours we go on a 4 hour watch system.  Last night, Chris took the 20:00 to 24:00, me the 01:00 to 04:00, with Chris came back on deck from 04:00 to 08:00.  Ian, who doesn’t have that much offshore experience, joined us for two hours of my watch and two of Chris’s.  This overlap helps as he was fresh when he came on deck as we were getting toward the second half of our watch and feeling a bit sleepy.   Tonight, we will switch watches with me doing two beginning at 20:00 and Chris only one.   That keeps things fair as we switch every other night.

Last night was particularly beautiful during my watch as there was a bright half moon until it set around 03:00 with the water sparkling with phosphorescence  as Pandora made her way steadily northward.  I love the 24:00 to 04:00 watch as it’s so peaceful and there isn’t usually much going on.  Last night I only saw a single ship and after speaking with the officer on watch, a woman, she indicated a plan pass to my stern and at a good distance.   Speaking with her personally made me much more comfortable instead of wondering what her plans were.

For much of the time on watch, I enjoy reading or listening to music on my i-pod.    For me, when the sailing is easy and at a good speed, I can’t say that there is any time when I feel more at peace, ashore or afloat.  It’s very nice to be at sea.  And, it’s a good thing that I feel that way as this trip will keep us underway for a week or more and that’s a long time to be underway.  Most folks tend to break up a trip like this into segments but I prefer to just go without stopping and avoid entering or leaving harbors along the way, especially ones that I am not that familiar with.   I’d much rather be 200 miles from the “hard stuff” than to be inshore dodging rocks and shoals.   Being close to rocks with Pandora gives me plenty of cause for anxiety, that’s for sure.
It’s an amazing contrast from the trip south with Brenda which we stretched to a full three months as we meandered down the Intra Coastal Waterway (A great trip BTW).  That same distance, now in a straight line offshore, will only take about a week.

So, where’s Pandora?   We are currently about 200 nautical miles east of north Florida.  That’s a really long way from land.    If you want to follow our trip on this site, just click the “where’s Pandora”  button and you will see…  I will be updating our position every four hours for the entire trip.  These position “spots” will be in place for up to two weeks and then they are automatically deleted.

So, how’s it going?  So far so good with our  first 24hours taking us in the neighborhood of 170 nautical miles, and with some unfavorable currents against us, that’s pretty impressive.   With some luck, the weather will hold and we will be able to sail much of the nearly 1,000 miles home and arrive in Essex at some point toward the end of the week.   It would be perfect if I could arrive in Essex, at the club, in time forFriday or Saturday cocktails.  One can only hope…  By that point I’d have to make a pit stop for a shower prior to joining the folks in the bar.  Minor detail.

It’s quite beautiful out here on the ocean and last night’s sunset did not disappoint.

So far, so good with our trip less than 20% completed.  No, that doesn’t sound like much but don’t forget, we only left yesterday.
Wish us continued smooth, and fast, sailing.

That’s all for now, SV Pandora signing off…

Heading Home from the Bahamas,Finally

It’s 13:30 on Saturday and we are offshore and headed for Essex and home for the summer.  It’s hard to believe that I have been aboard for nearly 8 months since Brenda and I left Essex Yacht Club way back in early September.

I can still recall when, not that long ago, our trips aboard were measured in days instead of months and I have to say that I am really looking forward to being home for a while and not worrying about the weather and gear issues with Pandora every day.  So far, and there is nearly 1,000 miles ahead of us until we arrive in CT, there have been no major gear issues but a number of fiddly things that have caused problems, mostly minor.  Fingers crossed that my good luck will continue for the rest of the voyage.  On the gear side, fingers crossed that things will continue working for the next week.   22 miles into our trip, so far, so good.

I spoke with Chris Parker, the weather router that we work with, both yesterday and this morning to get the latest information related to wind, seas and current for our trip.  Usually, it seems that the wind is always from the direction that you want to go but it seems that we should have fair winds that should hold for most of the trip.  That will be important as I do not carry enough fuel to allow us to motor all of the way.    I was very concerned that a great weather window would come and go prior to my crew arriving but as luck would have it, a great window that opened up yesterday, so it looks great.

If all goes well, we hope to make the trip in about a week and that’s important as there is a strong possibility of a cold front heading off the east coast later in the week, around Friday.  By that time, if we are not past Montauk we may have to stop somewhere until the weather passes and fair winds come into play again.   We will know more on that point in a few days.

In order to make it there in time, we will have to make an average speed of about 6kts, which should be pretty easy for us, provided that the wind stays fair.  As I write this we are averaging about 6-7kts, and most of the time at 7kts or better, with fairly light winds of about 10ks on the beam.  Of course, as they say, “past performance is no guarantee of future success”.  Well, I think that’s what they say or something like that.  As I am way out of phone and WIFI range, there’s no Google to lean on for answers.

Speaking of WIFI, I will be preparing these posts and will send them to Brenda via the SSB long range radio.  She will take them and publish them, along with some photos, hopefully.

Our plan is to use the SPOT, GPS communicator, as we have in the past, and will be “pushing the button” every four or so hours, 24 hours a day for the next week, or until we get home.   Check out the “where’s Pandora button to see our current location in real time, sort of.   I also hope to put up a post, provided that Brenda’s social calendar permits, at some point each day for our voyage.
The last few days have been very hectic as I have been preparing Pandora for this trip, with runs up the mast to repair burned out bulbs, trips to the grocery and other final preparations.  To say that a 1,000 mile voyage, hundreds of miles from land, is a big deal doesn’t begin to make the point, as it seems to me.   I have sailed thousands of miles but have only been offshore a few dozen times including a trip back from the Bahamas last May on a friend’s boat.  And, for that run, we were much closer to the coast and stopped half way, in Beaufort for fuel and gear issues.  And, of course, there were the 15 or so trips to Maine, across the Gulf of Maine, but those trips are only a few hundred miles and we were never more than 100 miles from land, usually closer.  I also did a trip back from Bermuda  which was about 700 miles, and that was over 15 years ago.

However, Pandora was built for trips like these and she is fitted out with all the latest safety gear including a four man life raft.  I am very hopeful that the raft is one piece of equipment that I will never try out.  So far, so good.

Anyway, it’s a beautiful day here on the ocean just north of the Abacos and if you are wondering,  “nope, we aren’t there yet!

Perhaps I will close with a shot of the last sunset, sort of as it was two nights ago, that I saw in the Bahamas this year.   Yes, I am happy to leave but I am very much looking forward to returning next February.  For now,  I am all about being HOME.  Hey, here’s an ideaůhow about a hot shower?  Now, that’s something that I have not had since early September,  unless you count the brief visit home for Christmas.  Hmmm… only a week to go.  Oh, will I be ready then.

A fitting shot of a beautiful Bahamas sunset and a perfect metaphor for Bob and Brenda’s FIRST most excellent adventure.

Homeward Bound, soon, really soon!

It’s Tuesday morning here in beautiful Hope Town, Abaco and I am now less than a week away, weather permitting, from my departure for home.  With my crew Chris and Ian arriving on Friday evening, we should be ready to shove off, weather permitting, over the weekend or Monday.  There are provisions and fuel to get on board and then we have to make our way north through Whale Cay Passage (I wrote about this passage recently), across the banks and out into the Gulf Stream for the run north.

I have been worrying that I would have made all these arrangements, have crew arrive and we would be stuck in port due to strong unfavorable winds.  Of course, with everyone in place the last thing we would want to do is to sit and cool our heels for a week w-a-i-t-i-n-g.    When I returned from the Bahamas last May we were delayed in Nassau for several days and then again in Beaufort NC for half a week. Between weather and gear problems, a trip that should have taken a week lasted for two weeks.  I have been fretting that this would be the case with Pandora.

Of course, we won’t know how the weather will look until we get with a few days of departure but, as of now, things are looking good for a fairly easy run north.     The other thing to consider will be gear problems and I am hopeful that we won’t have problems there either.  Fingers crossed.   Interestingly, had I tried to leave this week we would have encountered everything from no wind to gale force conditions as we headed up the coast.  In all likelihood we would have had to wait till next week anyway.  Let’s hope that my luck holds…

My week with my friend Craig, who is visiting me here in the Abacos this week, is going well.  Yesterday and today we are in Hope Town, my third visit here in the last month, and on Wednesday we will head south to Little Harbor, a lovely spot and the home to Pete’s Pub and Gallery.  Brenda and I enjoyed a few days there earlier in April.   It will be fun to be back there again.   By Friday afternoon we will need to be back in Marsh Harbor for crew arrival.

There’s lots to look at here in Hope Town harbor and I was particularly struck by this beautiful catamaran that was moored nearby. Cheetah is apparently a new boat recently constructed in Trinidad.   Interestingly, it is powered by twin electric hybrid propulsion and is epoxy, plywood construction.  This link provides some very interesting background.  I have to admit that I am drawn to some of these big cats as they have loads of living space and, under the right conditions, are really fast.    This one is the best looking that I have seen.

Well, I guess that it’s time to finish up my coffee and head out for a bit of exploring as it’s nearly noon.  Where does the time go?  I guess I am in cruising mode…  I’m in the Bahamas mon…   Don’t worry, be happy!

So far, so good, except for worry about passages north.  Oh well…

Mother’s day. Alas, no mothers nearby…

I can’t believe that it’s Mother’s Day and here I am in the Bahamas and there isn’t a related mother in sight.  Brenda left on Thursday to head back to the States and The Boys.   I am sure that hey will keep her in good shape for this important weekend.  For Brenda, it’s not about Mother’s Day, it’s about Mother’s Day weekend.  I agree and happily, the boys do too and will surely be doting on her.  That’s good.   I talked to my mother today which was nice.  Brenda didn’t answer her phone.  That’s good too as she was certainly out doing Mother’s Day sorts of things.   Perhaps they are planting up the window boxes.

However, here I am in the crummy (not) Bahamas, feeling a bit guilty for not being there.  Oh well, it is sunny and warm, like a perfect Mother’s Day.  I did see a few mother’s tooling around in boats today, just not mine.

Yesterday my friend Craig and I did a bit of beach exploring on the ocean side.  The beach on Great Guana is quite beautiful and is said to be home of the third largest barrier reef in the world following the Great Barrier Reef in Australia and one off of Belize in South America.    The view of the beach is truly spectacular.And all this great beach to explore and almost nobody else to compete with for finding shells.  Brenda probably thinks that I only look for shells when she is there but I couldn’t help myself yesterday and was again on the lookout for the “perfect shell”.  I am always hoping to find something that qualifies as the “find of the day” and yesterday didn’t disappoint. You wouldn’t expect to find something like this on such a popular beach.  It seems that every day is indeed a new opportunity for a great find.   I have found plenty of these types but they tend to be about 1″ long or less.  This is a beauty.I will have to save it for Brenda.  Perhaps a small Mother’s Day token…

When Brenda and I were here a few weeks ago we visited Nipper’s, a very popular bar overlooking the beach.   On that that visit, a very windy day, we were not very impressed.  However, what a difference there was when the winds were more moderate and there was a less sophomoric crowd at the bar.  Yesterday I thought that the place was actually very pleasant.   There were plenty of colorful umbrellas to brighten up things. 

That’s Craig along with our friends Dane and Ursula.  Ursula has a SAGA 43 like Pandora.  She has considerable sailing experience and spent a good amount of time in South America in past years.   That’s some really blue water in the background.  Pretty amazing. That evening I hosted cocktails on Pandora for them along with a couple from another boat.  We had a very enjoyable visit.  The sunset?  About typical… Beautiful, as always. Today Craig and I headed over the Man-0-War Cay.  I expect that we will do some exploring later this afternoon.  Who knows, perhaps we will spy some mothers enjoying their day.  It could happen…

Today’s weather.  Yes, another sunny day.  Who knew?  Perhaps I will close with one of those “typical” cloud pictures, taken last evening.   You can never have too many beautiful pictures of clouds, can you?  Just a few days till my crew comes into town on Friday.   Time to get serious about watching the weather for my trip north.  I am excited about moving toward home and my mother, of course…

Mom?  Are you listening?  Can you hear me now?

Bob and Brenda’s most excellent adventure. The end of a chapter…

Yesterday at 06:00 I took Brenda to the dock and waiting taxi to begin her journey to our “land home” in CT.  Except for a brief trip home for Christmas, Brenda and I have been aboard Pandora together  for eight months, beginning on September  11th when we moved aboard, until May 9th.

Our trip took us a long way.   We experienced most of the Intra-Coastal-Waterway, all the way from Eastern Connecticut to Ft Lauderdale across to the Bahamas and as far south as Rum Cay and Long Island which sit on the Tropic of Cancer.   We made many wonderful friends along the way and visited most of the major areas of the Bahamas and covered nearly 3,000 miles, about 1,000 miles of that in the Bahamas.

While the trip has been remarkable in so many ways, there is no doubt that I share Brenda’s excitement about heading home.  Our plan was to make this trip a long one and then, in future years, split our time between land and see.  Next winter we plan to spend about three months in the Bahamas with a month or two in Maine this summer and next.   In between we will spend some time in eastern long Island sound home waters and the Chesapeake.    I wouldn’t want to miss the Annapolis Boat Show, would I?

As we have been doing for years, I will make the really long runs with crew and Brenda will join me for the duration once the boat is in place.  This approach has worked well for much of the nearly forty years that we have been cruising together.

My plan now is to have my friend Craig join me this Saturday to spend a week sailing in the Abacos.  After that friends will arrive to help me take Pandora north with our hope of leaving the Bahamas on our about May 19th.

I have been looking at the weather on the eastern seaboard for several weeks now and I am hopeful that we will have favorable conditions within the two week window that my crew has to get back to CT.  The spring winds along the eastern seaboard are generally from the southwest this time of year so, unless there is a cold front passing off of the coast at that time, we should be able to make the run within that time frame and hopefully under sail.  As is always the case with weather, “let’s hope it works!”.   Time will tell.  Making long passages are a lot tougher when you have limited time and visiting crew as it’s not uncommon to find that conditions are not favorable for making a desired trip for perhaps up to a week at a time.   With a couple living aboard, it’s easy to wait for perfect weather but with visiting crew, not so easy.  As has often been said, “the most dangerous piece of equipment on a boat is a clock” and the need to keep to a particular timetable.  It’s always better to wait than to head out when conditions are not favorable.

If we run into trouble keeping to our schedule we will just bail out and head for Annapolis where I can leave Pandora for a week or so and then head back to finish the run.

I still have to find a yard where Pandora can be hauled for a month or two for some repairs and maintenance but that will have to wait until I re-enter US waters where I can easily make cell calls.  While we did get a Bahamas cell phone, using it to call the US is expensive so we have limited use as much as we can.

Having Brenda leave today, even though we have been planning it for weeks, was a bit of a jolt to me and to return to Pandora after taking her to the taxi was depressing.  Returning aboard to see that all of her stuff gone including the shells and other decorations that were out for display was a real bummer.  Pandora has been our home for many months and to see that it no longer looked “homey” was sad.

So, I was aboard, alone and depressed.  What to do?  Brenda predicted that I would clean.  Yup, she called that one right.   So, at the tender hour of 06:30, out came the cleaning materials and for the next three hours I scrubbed away.  I have to say that Pandora was already pretty clean but she is really clean now.  Rugs have been shaken out, floors washed, heads sanitized and dust cleared from shelves and every nook and cranny that I could reach.

There is still plenty to do to keep Pandora in top shape, there always is, but at least as I prepare for Craig’s arrival and ultimately, the trip north in about a week, Pandora will be ready to begin her nearly 1,000 mile voyage home.

Is has indeed been “Bob and Brenda’s most excellent voyage” and while there have been plenty of challenges, it’s been a wonderful experience.

Perhaps a great way to close is with a shot taken on the docks at Fayerweather Yacht Club way back on September 11th, our first night out.  Fayerweather Yacht Club was a fitting spot to spend that first night as it was our first yacht club and the spot where we kept our very first boat, a 20′ long Cape Cod Catboat, way back in the late 70s.  Who would have guessed that we would one day have a boat capable of crossing oceans and that we would be in a position to take the time, and have the opportunity, to spend many months away and aboard.

To celebrate the close of is amazing voyage and Brenda’s departure, we enjoyed dinner at a local eatery here in Marsh Harbor the night before she left.  What a great way to mark the end of our time together and the conclusion of our first big voyage.It’s been a wonderful time together, mostly with smooth sailing, and we are looking forward to some shore time, a chance to sleep in our bed at home, the one that Brenda calls her “cloud bed” and then come back to the Bahamas next winter.

This sunset from our last night aboard here in Marsh Harbor was particularly beautiful.  Or, is it a sunrise on our new, and more carefree life together?  You decide.

 

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