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Thursday’s the big day. Crossing to the Bahamas

It’s Wednesday evening, dinner’s done and the dishes put away.  So now my thoughts are turning to our crossing to the Bahamas tomorrow on Thursday afternoon.

The original plan was to leave Ft. Lauderdale early on Thursday morning and clear in to the Bahamas at Bimini, a mere 50 miles from Florida.  However, when it comes to weather, it’s up to God to decide and he has determined that the “window” for getting to the Bahamas is going to be short.   This means that instead of a more leisurely run to Bimini, a run of about 50 miles, followed by a second day run to Chub Cay, another 75 miles, we will have to do a run to Chub from Ft. Lauderdale as a single overnight run.  The problem is that the “benign weather we want for the crossing will only last for a short time and if we stop in Bimini along the way, the weather will likely turn against us.

The problem is that the “prevailing” or “normal” winds for this area are from the east and that’s the direction we need to go.  You can’t sail into the wind so that means that we will need to motor all of the way.  That’s not bad except when the wind is blowing hard against us.  And, believe me, we don’t want to motor into strong easterlies. That would make Brenda sad.  And, we don’t want a sad Brenda.  Not good at all.

As Pandora’s normal cruising speed will only allow us to complete a run of about  75 miles in a single day of daylight, we will have to make this run overnight in order to make about double that distance.  Brenda’s not too keen about being under way in the overnight hours, but it makes sense given the weather.  While we are expecting light winds and a motor boat ride, there are supposed to be strong winds filling in from the east (a bad direction) by Friday afternoon.  If we were to stop at Bimini instead of continuing overnight, we would miss the light winds and end up stranded at Bimini for days, perhaps longer while waiting for good conditions to return.  Last winter our friends stopped in Bimini and were stuck there for a full week.  We’d like to avoid that.

As we want to be further along on our trip without a long wait in Bimini, we decided to just go for it and motor overnight.

So, the plan is for us to get fuel and water on Thursday morning here in Ft Lauderdale and head out shortly after noon.  Given a speed of about 7kts, we should be able to complete the run by mid morning on Friday.

I have made a reservation at Chub Cay marina, the only business in Chub Cay, for Friday night so it will be fun to clear customs there.  I understand that customs is located at the airport and that the marina staff will take us there via golf cart to visit the customs officials.  That should be an experience.  So many of the islands in the Bahamas have only a few inhabitants and the only water and electricity available is precious and made on the island itself.  Not like the US where electricity and water is taken for granted. 

Today we finished provisioning Pandora with all the food we could stuff in the fridge.  Our fridge is more like an icebox with a small freezer that will hold about 25lbs of frozen meat.  The fridge is a top opening deal so it’s more like diving for food than in a normal refrigerator at home.   And, don’t forget, that all the electricity for keeping food is made by our solar panels.  In both the fridge and freezer you have to eat your way from top to bottom, very unlike in a home fridge where you can see about everything at once when you open the door.

This is a photo of our solar panels which measure about 8′ by 8′ and produce about 10 times the power of a car battery each day.  That’s not a lot of power by  “home standards” but the equipment is so efficient that this is still a lot of electricity and plenty for our purposes.

This photo was taken on the CT River not far from our “summer home” and clearly shows the solar panels on the top of the “bimini”.  Anyway, wish us luck on our trip.  I hope to post again once we clear in in Chub.

21 bridges and only 40 miles. Can you say “open the bridge?”

It’s hard to believe that it’s possible to pass through 40 miles of water and have to go through over 20 bridges, and to do all of that in one day.  As Iwrite this it’s Tuesday evening and while it’s not even 9:00, Brenda’s snoozing.  It may seem odd to you but motoring along all day and constantly having to adjust the speed of Pandora to arrive at a given bridge in time for them to open, is very tiring. 

In this part of Florida, the bridges are very close together and all are too low for Pandora with her 65’ tall mast, to get under.   As a result, we have to time our approach to each bridge so that we arrive at the appointed opening time.  Some only open up once per hour, some each half hour and some on the quarter hour.  The problem is that there is barely enough time to get from one to the next in the time alowed.  Pandora’s comfortable cruising speed is about  7 knots, about the equivalent of 7.7 MPH.  This isn’t very fast but typical for a boat such as ours.   This is a picture of one of the better looking bridges.  The bridge operators are plenty friendly but they won’t stray from their appointed schedule by much more than a minute and, if you are even two minutes late, you will have to wait till the next opening which will be at least 30 minutes later.  That doesn’t sound like much but you can loose hours in a day and spend a lot of time circling in the water with the boat while waiting for the next opening.

Happily, we timed most of our bridges pretty well and made it all the way to Ft. Lauderdale where we are now in a day.  40 miles doesn’t sound like much but when you combine that with so many bridges, it’s a long way and plenty of tiring as we had to be “on” every minute.

Enough about the difficulties of bridges.    At least it’s not snowing.  Did I mention that it was in the 80s and sunny?  I probably shouldn’t have.

This is the view that greeted me today when the sun rose.  Pretty nice. As we passed along the waterway, we spied an endless number of magnificent yachts.  I feel pretty good about Pandora but she’s a canoe compared to these babies.   This one is classified as an “expedition yacht” which means that she can go about anywhere in the world.  Some of these yachts even have their own submarines aboard.  We even saw one with a helicopter perched on the back deck.  Hard to believe that one person owns these. 

This beautiful yacht is more for coastal cruising as opposed to ocean crossing.  I also saw this one in Newport RI a few years ago.  She really gets around. This sailboat, Rambler, is quite famous on the ocean racing circuit.  She wins many races  and has competed in some of the world’s most difficult events.  In the “Fastnet” race off of England, a few years ago, she her keel fell off and she turned over in the water instantly. Pretty amazing boat though.  She’s about 100’ long. The keel is a massive lead part under the boat that helps balance the boat and provide resistance to the wind in the sails.  Without it, any sailboat will turn turtle right away.  Pandora weighs about 25,000 pounds and nearly 10,000 pounds of the weight is in the lead keel. Fortunately, when Rambler turned over she didn’t sink and was salvaged so she could race again.  Also, thankfully, none of the crew was hurt.  The odds of a keel falling off are very slim and thankfully, no boat like Pandora has ever lost a keel.

Along the waterway we passed one amazing home after another.  Some tacky and some grand but all really expensive.   I wonder what folks to do earn that much money.  

This is a typical home and we saw plenty.This one was particularly impressive.  Quite modern.This earth mover was toiling away on a little sand island.  I have no idea how they got it out there as it was perched on the mound and yet there was no way to get to shore without going in the water.  I doubt that they float well.  I guess he will have to pile up sand to make his own island all the way to shore.With all the sunshine here in Florida, you’d expect to see solar panels.   We didn’t really see any but did see these wind generators or mills on the top of an apartment tower.  They look pretty wacky but were churning away making electricity.  Pandora doesn’t have a wind generator but she does have large solar panels that supply all of her electrical needs when we are at anchor.   The panels put out enough power each day to run our refrigerator, freezer, computers etc along with enough left over to power our desalination unit which makes fresh water from salt water.  In the Bahamas, fresh water is very precious and if you don’t have your own desalinization equipment you have to purchase water for about $.50 a gallon. That may sound like a lot for water but believe me, it’s a lot cheaper than making your own as the equipment is very expensive.  However, cost aside, having enough fresh water is worth most anything to Brenda who loves here daily shower.  And remember, keeping Brenda happy is job one.  As they say “a happy wife makes for a happy ship”.  Works for me.

We are now anchored in a small harbor in Ft Lauderdale and tomorrow we will head out for some last minute shopping as it looks like we will be able to head over to the Bahamas on Thursday.   The wind will likely be light so it will be a motorboat ride.  That’s fine as Brenda prefers that to more exciting sailing.  We will likely make Bimini our first stop.  Bimini became famous as the winter home of Ernest Hemingway.   I guess they still have plenty of rum there.

Well, I had better wrap this up and get to bed myself as after going through 21 bridges today I am ready for 20 winks and now’s a good time for that.

Casting off the lines and on our way. Monday morning we hope…

It’s Sunday evening and the rest of the world is watching the Super Bowl.   Me, I am writing a blog post.  Sorry, but I was brought up in a sports agnostic house. Whatever.

Anyway.  It’s been three plus days since we arrived in Ft. Pierce and we have just about added all the provisions we can to Pandora so we are about ready to head out.  So, Monday morning, tomorrow, we will cast off the lines and begin to head south to Ft Lauderdale to stage ourselves for the run to the Bahamas.

I am a bit uncertain about what will happen when I back Pandora out of the slip in the morning as I fear that the prop will be fouled with barnacles given the fact that she has sat in the marina for three months.  I am also wondering how the slime etc on the hull will be.  However, if we are really slow when we leave, I’ll just have to anchor, get out the hooka compressor and go for a swim to clean off the hull. I did call a diver this afternoon to see if perhaps he could come by to clean the hull today but I didn’t hear back.  I am not surprised with the “big game” happening this evening.

Perhaps I’ll get lucky and he will call me early in the AM and stop by to scrub the hull.  If not, I’ll just have to do it myself.   Here’s a shot of me with all my gear from last year, about ready to clean things up.  Pretty amusing look, if you ask me.However, the water here in the marina isn’t nearly clean enough for me to risk a swim so if I have to do it myself, I’ll wait till we are out in more clear water.  It’s pretty easy to clean the hull as I just use a scotchbrite pad on a plastic handle.  It’s not that bad as long as the fouling isn’t too bad.

Here in the marina the water is pretty murky but there is lots of wildlife.  This manatee swam right by Pandora twice today.  Well, that’s how many times I saw her/him.   Not too pretty looking.  Supposedly, early explorers mistook these guys for mermaids.  They must have been pretty lonely to have mistaken one of these “sea cows” for nautical beauties.   This shot shows pretty clearly the whole deal.  They are about 8′ long.  This guy’s back was completely covered with algae too.  Not the spic and span skin of a dolphin and plenty sluggish swimmers.  No wonder they get struck by power boats so often.  Amazing creatures. And, these guys aren’t the only wildlife in the area.  There is a mangrove stand near the fuel dock that is the evening gathering place for hundreds of Ibis birds and a few pelicans.  In the dark the white birds look more like litter sprinkled on trees.  It’s amazing to watch them fly in from all over as the sun sets.  And, this pelican was perched on a piling in the marina just outside of the bar area.  I wonder if he was looking for some fish and chips.  It’s funny, but to me pelicans look pissed off.  “hey bud…who you lookin at?  Yes, I’m talkin to you.”Well, the plan is to head out early or, if we are lucky, to have the diver clean the bottom of Pandora to get off three months of slime before we head out.  I guess I’ll have to see if the diver calls me back first thing.

One way or the other, we hope to be on our way Monday morning.   Fingers crossed.

Inching toward a departure from Ft. Pierce aboard Pandora.

It’s Saturday morning and we are now in Ft Pierce, having arrived in the driving rain on Thursday afternoon. It was an enjoyable ride down from CT and didn’t seem nearly so long as the 1,000+ miles would suggest. By breaking up the trip and making it more like a week on the road, verses a single hard push south, we had time to adjust to a slower pace, if you can call moving south at 70 mph for hour after hour “slower”.

With virtually no traffic at any point once we were out of the NYC area, I guess you could call it slower or at least relaxing.  Now that we are here in Ft. Pierce, staying put for yet another few days sounds very appealing. Our $19/day rental car has come in handy and it’s been easy to say “OK, how about another day on that rental”.  Years ago, I would have pushed to get all of our errands done in a single day but now…

I spoke with Chris Parker, the weather router, on the radio today and he suggested that we might be able to cross to the Bahamas by mid week so I guess we will get moving on Sunday morning to head down the coast toward Ft. Lauderdale. (Remember that there’s a “where’s Pandora” button on the home page of this site where you can see exactly where we are most any time.)

Crossing to the Bahamas from Florida is easier from further south because you are working with the northern current rather than trying to fight it.  The current in the Gulf Stream runs as much as 5kts (about 5.5mph) toward the north, so in the day it takes to cross the stream, you get swept north quite a bit.  With that in mind, you have to aim further south than you would think in order to avoid missing your destination on the Bahamas side completely. 

So, I think that we will likely leave the marina in Ft Pierce on Sunday and begin making our way south via the ICW, on the inside as opposed to the ocean side. There are plenty of bridges to go through as we get closer to Ft. Lauderdale so it will take two days to make the 100 or so mile trip.  As you can imagine, the scenery along the waterway is very interesting and there are plenty of amazing homes packed along the shore.  Central Florida is certainly home to the 1% crowd.

I find that it’s plenty hard to get ready to leave Pandora for a few months and even harder when we return to her after she’s sat for some time unattended.  There is so much to do to get everything in place to head out again. You’d think that it would be easy to get the boat ready again after a few months away, especially since we have been doing this for years now.  However, it’s just not that easy because when things sit unattended, they don’t always work when you come back.  In spite of all my efforts in getting things “ship shape” when I left in November, there were bits of mildew here and there along with food in the fridge that I should have tossed but didn’t when I left. 

While we have a detailed list of provisions in a spreadsheet aboard, of all of the food and stores that we have stowed aboard Pandora, most of which was put aboard in CT, it seems that we are always a bit unsure of what we have and what’s now needed for our few months in the Bahamas. Shopping over there is uncertain at best as it’s a very rural country.

One particularly vexing example of trying to get everything aboard in preparation for a trip, is medications. While our list is not that long, it’s hard to convince the insurance company and pharmacy to fill orders for 4 months of prescriptions when they only want to send a 30 day supply. Prior to our departure from CT, we ordered several months and had them shipped here to the marina.  Alas, when we arrived, some of the items we had ordered were nowhere to be found.

The mail order pharmacy folks were happy to send the rest of the order, but it took an hour and a half of frustrating phone calls to get things resolved.  And, to make matters worse, we had to find a UPS store in Ft. Lauderdale to have them shipped to since we will only be here in Ft. Pierce for a few more days, not long enough for our order to get here.  However, we are certain that we will be to Ft. Lauderdale at some point prior to heading over to the Bahamas.  As you can see, it’s plenty difficult to resolve the logistics of not having a regular mailing address when you are moving from place to place on a boat. I can’t wait till all of these issues are settled and we are underway.

Our frustrations are not unique to Pandora as we had drinks last evening with another couple that we had met last winter who are also having a difficult time getting ready to head out.   And, in their case, it’s even tougher as when they leave the US they won’t be back for years as they are planning to go through the Panama Canal and across the pacific ocean on their circumnavigation.

It’s a long way around the world, believe me, at about 5mph, the speed of a cruising boat. To go around the world is about 25,000 miles and that takes a very long time when you go so slow. And that assumes that the wind is blowing from the right direction. 

As I wrote that last paragraph, I am struck by how normal their plans seem to us given the folks that we hang around with these days.  These are serious voyagers where taking boats across vast oceans is more of the norm.  Well, for me right now, I am more focused on just getting Pandora out of this marina so we can begin making our way over to the Bahamas, not far but it seems like a big move to us right now.

You’d think that just casting off the lines should be easy but it’s amazingly tough. While Pandora is not a big boat, there are an amazing number of details to attend to and places to loose things. Actually, without a detailed list, I expect that things could get lost for years. Pandora is 43’ long and 12’ wide. While that might sound big, believe me, it’s not. This is a schematic of what the boat looks like “down below”.  We sleep in the front bunk.This is what the main cabin looks like when things are “ship shape”.  Pretty nicel , we think. Think of spending time aboard a small cruising boat like Pandora as cramming into a spot about the size of a large bathroom with someone, for weeks at a time. Sounds confining? Perhaps, but the views are fantastic.  Here’s Pandora at a dock in Rum Cay last winter.  Pretty nice…Well, there are lots of chores to do today so I had better sign off and get to work or we will NEVER leave and that would be a bummer.

Getting closer, to the Bahamas, and warm, in a relative sort of way.

It’s Tuesday morning and Brenda and I are on our way south in a rental car, headed to Ft Pierce and Pandora. As I begin this post we are tooling along 95 south and have just entered Georgia.  The last few months have been an emotional whirlwind as my father’s health declined and we dealt with things that we had (thankfully) precious little experience with.

A very important step in all of this was to find a good place for my mother Shirley to move to and after several weeks of exploration, I found her a very nice apartment in an assisted living facility in East Haven CT.  Happily, the place is not too far from some of her friends of many years, which was important.  As an added bonus, her apartment, located on the third floor, has a commanding view of Long Island Sound, a piece of water that I have passed through so many times over the last 40 years of sailing.  So, one week ago we moved her from her apartment of nearly eight years to a nice new place.

Happily, my mother paid me the ultimate compliment a few days after she moved in when she told me that she liked her apartment and that I had chosen well.  Yahoo!!!  What more could a son ask for.  She’s the greatest.

When I told her that I was planning to abandon her to head out for three months in the Bahamas she thrilled me again by taking my hand and saying that after all of my hard work that I deserved to take a long trip.  Well, that made my little doggy day.  We’ll see how she feels about me ditching her after a few months.  Ditching her Bob?  Well, that’s exactly how I feel. I will say, in defense of myself, that the place is just lovely and with a lot of help from Brenda, her apartment is very well decorated .  Thank you Brenda!!! That’s not the first time I have uttered those words.  Yes, indeed, thank you Brenda.  

So, after leaving New England, and single digit temperatures, far behind, we are now in the deep south passing wetlands that so remind us of our trip south on the Intra-Coastal Waterway, the ICW, one year ago.

One of our favorite destinations on that trip was St Augustine and we plan to stay in a lovely historic inn, The Old City House Inn,  downtown in the historic district, for the next two nights before finishing our journey to Ft Pierce and Pandora later this week. Today we will have lunch with our friend Peter who recently sold his SAGA 43 after settling as a snowbird in St Augustine with his wife where they live for the winter and summers in Maine.  A few years ago they too were passing through St Augustine on their way south aboard Lumen, their SAGA and they loved the city so much they decided to buy a land home and settle here as their winter home.

Peter collects classic cars in a big way. Peter and his business partner own about two dozen cars. That’s a lot of cars. They have a website www.mainelineexotics.com.  Peter told me that his site is currently being updated but should be ready in just a few days.  I’d check back as he owns some really exotic cars.   Peter’s collection is clearly in a different league than ours.  However, Brenda and I do own a single classic.  A nice little, fully restored, red 1962 MGA Mk 11, one of the last of the MGAs built.  Big collection or not, owning even a single classic is just terrific.  Not a bad way to spend time enjoying New England summers when we aren’t out sailing in exotic places.  This is a view of our little car near our “summer home” in a beautiful cemetery overlooking the CT River.That’s as opposed to our “winter home”, Pandora.   Not much use for a convertible car in New England in the winter so that makes it a good time to head south in my book.

The last two days of driving south have been interesting, in boring sort of way, as we passed over mile after mile of highway, watching the late January landscape go from winter grey to the first pink buds of spring.  Yes, here in GA the buds on the branches are starting to swell in anticipation of warmer weather.  I can’t say that I have ever used the words “spring” and “January” in a single sentence.  I guess there’s a first time for everything.

My brother Bill has been driving this route for years as he delivered show horses to and from FL and the winter show circuit.  He too has marveled at the changes in temperature or seasons on his way back and forth, sometimes three times a week. He told me that one year he drove to FL and back thirty times.  Yikes.   He also mentioned that on one visit as he headed south, it was snowing hard as the light faded one evening and as the sun rose the next morning he was driving among palm trees.  Now, that’s a fast season change in just eight hours.

Speaking of Bill, as we headed south on Monday, just outside of Richmond VA, I called Bill and found that he was headed north in the same general area.  So, we talked on the phone for a short time, just long enough to wave to him as he raced past us going north as we headed south.  How amazing to actually see him pass us as we went by in the opposite direction.  Who’d expect to see pass a single particular truck on a 1,000 journey.  Well, it seemed pretty neat to me and Brenda.

Well, it’s now Wednesday morning and we are in St. Augustine.  Nope, I didn’t get my post done on the same day.  I’ll blame it on Internet trouble. 

It’s fun to visit friends along our travels and we met our friend Peter yesterday for lunch after arriving here in St. Augustine.  It was a treat as we only see him on occasion as we move up and down the East Coast.   These periodic visits with friends are very much a part of cruising aboard Pandora as acquaintances enter and leave our lives only to re-enter again, year after year.

Over the last few weeks the number of e-mails from friends like these have increased with questions about or plans and timing for crossing over to the Bahamas.   Just last week I spoke to Ted and Ginnie aboard Firecracker, another SAGA 43, when they were getting ready to head further south in anticipation for crossing to the Bahamas.  Yesterday I tried them again and the phone went immediately to voice mail, a sure sign that they are out of cell range and probably on their way to the Bahamas or already there.  As an interesting aside, Ted’s boat is called Firecracker as he was born on the 4th of July.  It must be nice to have everyone shoot off fireworks on your birthday.

For those who have seen my blog over the last few years, you have seen reference to my “spot” GPS transponder that marks our location on a Google Earth map so our friends know where we are most any time.  I have even gotten “spot messages” from a few folks recently who want us to keep track of their travels too.  It’s fun to stay in touch with this “movable neighborhood”.  Great fun indeed.  Note that on my home page, there’s a “where’s Pandora” button.  When we are aboard, and we will be there soon, you can click on the link and see where we are.  I think that’s pretty neat.   We will make a point of “pushing the button” each day and more often that that when we are underway.

Oh, I should note that our room here is really quite cute.  Happily, Brenda approves too.  The inn is above a pretty little restaurant.  There’s only seven rooms.  Very quaint.  Each room is very different and ours has a tiny balcony overlooking the street. Nice view.  The only problem with the weather is that the ice storm that we were racing to avoid is now a rain storm here.  It’s in the low 40s and rainy.  Not perfect Florida weather.  However, it is January and warmer in a relative sort of way as the temps at home in CT are a somewhat less balmy low teens.

Yes, it’s getting warmer but only sorta so.  Well, it will be better soon as the weekend is expected to be in the 80s.  That’s good and just what I am looking for.

Bahamas, here we come.  Soon is not fast enough…

Speaking of boating and just for fun, here’s a short piece of a less than delicate way to bring a ship up to the shore.  It seems that this ship, after years of work on the English Channel, was to be scrapped in Turkey.  So…what better way to get her up on dry land than to drive her full speed and crash up onto the beach.  Not to subtle but efficient in a crash and bang sort of way.  Do not try this at home.

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