Uncategorized

Those that know me would probably agree that there is no job that I would be more ill suited for than that of a lighthouse keeper.  By definition, lighthouses are located in remote, hard to get to areas and while most have been automated, some still require the constant attention of someone who lives on site to be sure that everything is in working order.  And, any mariner would agree that it’s a really good thing when lighthouses are working as they are supposed to.

To that point, the Bahamas are famous or lights on charts that haven’t worked, often for decades.  Not so, it seems, in Uruguay.

I subscribe to a daily (I think I get it daily) e-mail newsletter from Soundings, a terrific boating publication that I worked for as a sales rep for short time years ago.  However, that was a long time ago and is a story for another time perhaps.

Anyway, this newsletter titled “Soundings Dispatches” is free and is worth signing up for.  Of course, some of the videos that they feature, and they send a lot out in the course of a year.  Yes, some are pretty lame but once in a while a real gem shows up in my inbox and today was one of those days.   To be fair, it’s probably not too easy to come up with really good daily videos.  Trust me on that as it sometimes takes me hours to wade through many clips to find something worth sharing.

So, back to my story…  The joke in our family, well at least I think it’s pretty funny, is that “dad doesn’t EVER want to be alone, except perhaps when he’s going in the bathroom, and that assumes that it’s a quick trip”.  Ok, ok, perhaps it’s my joke but it’s pretty much true.

So, today’s piece from Soundings, and it’s only a bit longer than 3 minutes, is a real gem.   The editor of the newsletter describes the short documentary…

“To the south of Brazil is Uruguay, a relatively small country on South America’s eastern coast that experiences heavy ship traffic along its 410-mile shoreline.

Twenty-three active lighthouses protect ships along Uruguay’s ocean borders, all built between the late 1800s and the early 1900s. They are owned and operated by Uruguay’s navy, the Armada Nacional.

Cabo Polonio Faro (faro is the Spanish word for lighthouse) was built in 1881 on a remote peninsula on Uruguay’s eastern shore. Leonardo da Costa is one of two keepers who alternate two-week-long shifts manning the lighthouse.

Like any lighthouse, Cabo Polonio Faro requires daily maintenance. When Costa is on duty he is solely responsible for repairs and for operating the lighthouse manually if it loses power.

Costa’s neighbors are few. Seal colonies live on nearby islands, and the remote village of Cabo Polonio, about a half-mile away to the west, is home to fewer than 100 people. Solar panels and wind turbines power their homes, and they lack running water.

Cabo Polonio can only be reached by walking or by using four-wheel-drive trucks to cross dunes of sand to the road nearest the village; no public roads reach the lighthouse or the village. Life on the secluded cape is quiet and solitary.”

There isn’t a single word spoken in the documentary which I suppose is the point, actually.For sure, I just can’t imagine a job that I would be more ill-suited for. However, I thought that the piece was just mesmerizing and hope that you agree.

The group that produced this video has a number of other short documentaries on YouTube including this charming piece about bikes in Cuba.   It’s in Spanish but it has subtitles.

We visited Cuba for two months aboard Pandora last winter I am compelled to share this one too.  It provides a very good feel for the resourcefulness of the Cuban people and the story would be pretty much the same with regards to cars as well as bikes.  Make do with what you have.  That’s the rule in Cuba.   Amazon Prime?  Not likely. So, there you have it, two really nice short pieces that made my day.  I hope you enjoyed them too.

I guess that it’s time to move along with my day and get something done or Brenda will ship me off to some remote lighthouse.

The “honey do list” isn’t getting any shorter.

During my recent cruise in Maine I was fortunate to go with members of The Corinthians on a tour of the Hinckley boat building company a “marque” long seen as defining the ultimate in fine boat building.

It was interesting that our guide, the director of sales, told us “we don’t do tours”.  I expect that this comment was designed to telegraph that “we don’t do tours unless we think that someone in your group might buy a Hinckley”.  The Corinthians are a pretty well heeled group and I expect that’s why they decided to make an exception, just this once…

The factory, more of a large, shop, gave us a good first hand understanding for the kind of quality that sets Hinckley apart from other production boat manufacturers.

The front of the building is certainly more understated than the products that they produce. There is an amazing amount of hand labor that goes into one of their boats.   Each little piece of fiberglass is hand cut and put into place. Interestingly, they don’t steam bend any materials, even the most complex curves.  This was our guide explaining the way that they form the most demanding shapes using very thin veneer type “flitches” with glue between each “slice” and then they clamp the glued up part into a special form and left there until the epoxy sets.  Don’t try this at home.   Well, you could actually.  The concept is simple, but like much in life, complicated to do when you get right down to it. Many of the most complex assemblies are cut out on a computer controlled milling machine.  This is a remarkable piece of work, the dashboard to go into a Picnic Boat.
And, speaking of Picnic Boats, and they coined the name, even Martha Stewart has one.  Reportedly, this is a shot of her cockpit.  Her boat is a lovely tasteful light green.  Would you expect anything less from the “queen of style”?  Personally, I was hoping for a more “stylish” photo from Martha herself.  I snagged this from a 2010 post on a blog that she keeps.  I wonder if she employs someone to write her blog.   Anyway, I digress.   Back to how they make these beautiful boats.  Where was I?  Oh yeah, about making parts with a computer controlled milling machine.  As I was saying, even parts with very complicated compound curves are possible.  It would take days to carve something like this out by hand.   And they can make a shape like this out of most any material, granite, plastic and metal along with wood. These are port hole trim pieces.  There is no way that an owner would be capable of maintaining a boat with this much wood unless they never used the boat and kept it under cover all of the time.  Even then, I doubt that anyone would be willing to take the time to keep it just so.
Even keeping the cabin sole in this sort of perfect condition would be tough.
I don’t know how many coats of varnish they use.  Our guide described the number of coats of varnish needed as “enough”.  These doors clearly don’t have enough quite yet. Notice the sign on this boat under construction.. “no shoes on board”.    For some reason, even when I ask, most guests aboard Pandora seem to forget that street shoes are for streets.  To me, boat shoes don’t belong on Pandora if they have been worn on shore.   Perhaps Pandora just doesn’t look yachty enough.   This one clearly does or at least the Hinckley folks think so.  I expect part of it is that if things get messed up they have to fix it themselves.  Perhaps I should hand a vacuum cleaner to anyone that tries to come aboard with shoes. Each job has to begin somewhere.  The interior panels are composite materials to keep weight low.  Pandora’s interior is constructed in the very same way.  It makes a very sturdy, light but very expensive boat.
Then all of the interior is put together and finished prior to the deck being put on.  That makes sense as it makes moving things around much easier than having to cram everything in through the cabin door or through a hatch.    They also make sure that there is a way to get every piece of equipment out of the boat for repair down the road.  I recall trying to get an old water heater out of my Tartan 37 and having to cut the tank up to get it through the aft hatch.  Ditto for fixing a leaky water tank.  I had to cut the bunk open with a saw.  Not a very elegant process on a “yacht”.
They swear by the water jet propulsion system.  It’s a hallmark of Hinckley.   Certainly in Maine, with all those lobster pot buoys, it’s good to avoid the exposed propeller.  Their “jet” propulsion is made by Hamilton Standard.  I can only imagine what these cost.
Curious how one of these pumps work?   Hamilton Standard, the author of this video, is happy to share.   The entire video may be more than you want to know?  It’s probably better for inquiring minds, like mine. Some remarkably beautiful engineering goes into the boats.  I don’t know how this swim platform/boat lift, works but it sure looks complicated.   I think it folds onto the upper platform with the steps in the inset section.   You tell me.
When it’s all done and finished with it’s sea trials, the boat goes back into the shop for a final “million dollar paint job” as they call it.  I wonder how long it takes for a new owner to give it a first scratch.  Alas, not to worry, if you can afford a Hinkley, you can afford to have it fixed.

And if you want your boat to always look like this, where you can see your face in her paint, fix you must…On the last night of our cruise, we enjoyed a jacket and tie affair.  I was ready to go and sporting one of my favorite bow ties as documented by my crew Rodney.  Don’t I look like a guy who should have a Hinckley?  Never mind, Pandora can outrun most any of them.    Well, not every one.  This new Hinckley 50 design would certainly leave me in her wake.   Sadly, in spite of many boats under construction at the shop, every last one was a powerboat.

Oh well, sail or power, I guess that I’ll just have to be satisfied with Pandora for now.  Besides, her interior is nicer and I am sticking with that.

Don’t worry Brenda, Pandora’s good enough for me.  And, not exterior varnish work, ever.

That makes her a keeper.

And, speaking of keepers, I had better break and get to work on the bathroom.  Time’s speeding by.  I’m on it.   Well, will be soon…

When I was on the Corinthians Cruise in Maine a few weeks ago the fleet visited Blue Hill Maine and were treated to a concert by a steel drum band called Flash in the Pans.  It seems that the band’s founder and current leader, Carl Chase did some sailing in the Eastern Caribbean back in the early 70s and was entranced by the sound of the steel drum music that he heard.  Interestingly, steel drum instruments were first developed in Trinidad in the 40s, shortly after WWII. Who knew?

Legend has it that Carl was given a copy of a book written by Pete Seeger, the folk singer, Steel Drums: How to Make Them and Play Them, published in the mid 50s.   Some credit Seeger with popularizing the instrument in the U.S.   Amazingly, the book, long out of print, is still available from Amazon.

Don’t worry Brenda, I have enough on my plate right now so I’ll hold off on ordering a copy.

Carl, was inspired to learn how to make these instruments, made one and well, that lead to another and another.

And, here they are, the Flash in The Pans, performing on a beautiful evening in Blue Hill.  It seems that they are an institution in those parts and steel drums have become a vital part of the local school band program. While the band was on break, I had a nice chat with Diane, the lady in pink playing to the far right hand side of the frame, not to put too fine a point on it.  It was clear from her enthusiasm that she, like many others, get quite a kick out of being in the band. The band has some 40 people who play regularly, ranging in age from teens to well, older folks like me. This short on minute video I took that night will give you an idea of what a great group they are.  Don’t they look like they are having fun?  The audience was too and there were hundreds outside of the tent dancing with abandon to the beat. What an experience.

Pete Seeger, along with writing a book about how to make steel drums, also did a short film, exploring steel drums and how they were made in Trinidad.  It’s worth watching and is an excellent example of what can be accomplished with the simplest tools given enough time and effort.
As a contrast, this clip from the Discovery Channel, explores how these same instruments are now created in high tech factories.  There is no end to man’s ability to complicate things I guess.
One way or the other, steel drums sound great.  When we were in Cuba last winter we were struck by the resourcefulness of the Cuban people who seemed able to make great things with the minimum of materials available to them.   However, while the music scene is quite vibrant in Cuba, we did not see any steel drum bands when we visited.

As we plan our trip to the Eastern Caribbean next winter, I am looking forward to hearing some steel bands.   The first time I was exposed to these instruments was when I was in my early teens and our parents took me on a family vacation to Jamaica.  I heard “Yellow Bird” played at the resort where we were playing and can still remember the sound after all these years.  I also clearly recall the painful blistering sunburn that I got while enjoying the beach but that’s a story for another day.

Perhaps I’ll close with this video of pan player David Hubbard, playing my old time favorite.
Hearing this makes me think of a margarita or at least some sort of drink with a tiny umbrella.   Can’t wait.

Who would have thought that a visit to Blue Hill would bring back memories from so long ago.   Thinking of all of this makes me even more excited about visiting the Caribbean this coming winter aboard Pandora.  Perhaps I’ll even hear Yellow Bird again which would bring things full circle.  Yes, that would be nice.

However, CT is so beautiful in the summer, I am happy to be here for a bit longer.  Besides, the bathroom isn’t finished yet.

You know how it goes, “happy wife, happy life”.  I have to keep reminding myself of that.  Yes Brenda, the bathroom will be done soon, I promise… I hope.

 

 

 

Last evening Brenda and I were guests of the CT River Museum and spoke at fund raiser event “Havana Nights”.  The event was dreamed up by Chris Dobbs, the Executive Director of the museum.  He’s a creative guy and came up with the dinner idea after hearing me talk at an SSCA Seven seas Cruising Association event that I held at the museum in June.   It was an intimate gathering of supporters of the museum with attendance limited to about 30.

The event, appropriately, was held on the hottest evening yet of the summer on the deck overlooking the beautiful CT River and what a wonderful evening it was.

I brought Pandora to their docks for the evening and decked her out in her finest. It was fun to show the guests the very Pandora that carried me and Brenda on our adventure.   I have to admit that getting her into the slip with current and wind opposing, took a few tries.  However, “no loss of life” and a successful landing. The table was set up banquet style and was beautifully appointed with decorations evoking Cuba.  What a lovely view. Pandora wasn’t alone looking fabulous in the sunset glow.   I just love this lovely yawl.   However, I can’t say that I have ever seen her off of her mooring.  She’s a looker to be sure. It was an intimate gathering and everyone seemed to have a great time.  I was touched that they paid a “pretty penny” to raise funds for the museum and came out on a sultry summer night to hear our story. All and all it was a perfect evening and one that Brenda and I were honored to be a part of it.  Oh yeah, and nobody fell asleep during my talk.  Whew!

It was indeed a Havana night moment and brought back so many memories of our trip.

The level of interest in visiting Cuba is amazing and the opportunity to share our voyage with others is very rewarding.  Amazingly, I have ten talks scheduled with three under my belt so far but none will rival the intimacy of the moment that we shared last night.

In the many posts that I wrote while visiting Cuba, I tried to capture the “essence” of the country and our experiences.  When I was back home I wrote this post in an attempt to sum up what it was like to be there.

Last night was a ton of fun and we were so pleased to be a part of such an extraordinary evening and to be able to share our visit to such an extraordinary country.

Cuba is great, you should go too.   Don’t delay.  Go now.

Well, that does it, nobody on board but me.  I dropped Barry off in tiny Sakonnet Harbor RI this morning.  As I write this I am passing the “gold coast” of Newport.  There are many cities that have a section that they proudly refer to as The Gold Coast but this one is, for sure, the granddaddy of all gold coasts.   The mansions here are so high end that even the hedge fund guys can’t afford the kind of homes that their robber baron ancestors referred to as “cottages”  It’s hard to believe that those mammoth homes were only occupied for a few weeks each summer.

I’d guess that the main reason that these homes stood vacant for nearly the entire year was because their owners were working hard to make even more money so that they not only had a huge mansion but that theirs was the “most hugest of all”, vacant or not.

All of this makes me remember all those years that I schlepped my boats to Maine and back each summer with the very limited vacation time I had.  Back in those days it took a “crowd” or perhaps better stated, a “village” for me to take my vacation.  With a crew to head up, and I always had at least four on board, to the crew heading back home, one summer it took a total of 15 people to make it possible for me to move my boat north, find a place to keep her when I wasn’t aboard and then to coordinate all crew and logistics for the run home a few weeks later.  For a number of years I resorted to lending my boat to friends with the agreement that they could use the boat for two weeks if they brought her home.    This worked well for a few years until I lent the boat to someone who turned out to have a problem with “adult beverages” and crashed the boat into another boat and ran her up on a rock ledge, both in one day.  That’s a very tough way to start the day.

And, of course, with that many people involved and the reality of weather to contend with, it was a logistical nightmare, crashes excepted.

These days, in my “retired life” it’s a lot simpler but heading back to Maine this time was certainly more like “the good old days” with crew coming and going and last minute “adjustments” to well laid plans. Back then, it just wouldn’t do to tell my boss “I’d love to be at work today, after two weeks away, but the weather, well it was just too windy to get back”.   Yeah right.

I expect that the response would have been something like the old Account Temps radio commercials.  “Don’t worry, Bob from Account Temps is here. Take as long as you want to get back.  EVERYTHING is under control.  We are doing just fine without you.”  Oh great.

Anyway, I digress but all the rushing around and crew changes this time have certainly brought back memories of my “past life”.

As I write this I am sailing along with the big Code Zero sail out on a nice easy broad reach.  It’s very pleasant indeed.

We finally made it through the Cape Cod Canal at around dark last night. However, the wind, while less than 10kts, was right on the nose for the last few hours.  That combined with a flood tide made for a very slow run down Buzzard’s Bay.

We decided to spend the night in Cuttyhunk bight and picked our way in to drop the hook a bit after midnight.  I set the alarm for 05:00 this morning (now that hurt) and sailed the rest of the way to Sakonnett where I dropped off Barry.  He has a summer home there.

The harbor is very tiny and really packed with moorings.  We picked up one of the two town moorings and within moments the harbor master stopped by to see if we were staying the night.  We explained our “touch and go” plans and he very nicely offered to take Barry to shore.  Very neighborly.

What a pretty harbor. They seem to take their commercial fishing seriously.  Sorry no obligatory shot of today’s sunrise although it was a stunner.

I guess I’ll close with a shot of Pandora sailing.  No bone in her teeth today.  Just an easy sail back to home waters and “real life”.And, the light at Pt Judith.  Back in home waters.Did I mention that the lawn needs cutting?  Oh yeah, and there’s a bathroom to finish remodeling.

Welcome home Bob.  If it wasn’t for the fact that Brenda’s there, well, I’d be tempted to just keep going.

One last thing, thanks for helping me Barry.  Life was going to be a LOT more complicated without you.  Yes, indeed, sailing, it takes a village and I am blessed to be a member of a particularly good tribe.