Here come the Calvary!
As I begin writing this the sun is just peaking over the eastern horizon. The water is glass calm as we make our way down toward Ocracoke island and then on to Beaufort where I will leave Pandora until mid January.
The sunrise was beautiful this morning from the earliest light when we picked up the anchor.
A perfect reflection of the trees on shore. Brenda, this would make for a lovely tapestry. Get on it! Please?
A little while later, a full sunrise reflected on the still water. What a great way to begin the day.
On this trip we are taking a different route, one that my crew Jim enjoys. We will head further east toward the coast, a route that I have not taken before. Instead of going through the Dismal Swamp Canal, we took the “Virginia Cut” that has a single lock.
It’s a huge lock that carries commercial traffic and there were quite a few boats there when we arrived.
Jim has done this route a number of times, most recently just a few weeks ago. He keeps his boat in the lower Chesapeake and enjoys heading in a loop down to Ocracoke and then returning via the Dismal swamp canal further to the west.
After leaving Hampton shortly after dawn yesterday we headed down past the naval base. A cruiser was picking up a mooring out in the river. Just how many sailors does it take? A lot, it seems. Aboard Pandora. It only takes two, one in a pinch.
Hey look… His and hers aircraft carriers. If the election doesn’t sort itself out next week, there’s one for Hillary and one for Donald. Now, that would be fun.
And speaking of NYC, which I wasn’t, Highlander, Malcomb Forbes’s old yacht was in dry dock in Portsmouth. I saw here there last fall too. She’s looking a bit worse for wear. Too bad.
In any event, we are making our way down the ICW and tonight we will take a slip in Ocracoke, go out to dinner and then make our way to Beaufort by Thursday night.
Interestingly, even though this area feels very remote, we have been passed by a half dozen boats in the last few minutes, all large powerboats heading south as a group. They will get there a lot sooner than us but their “burn rate” is probably 30x greater than us. Unlike their “cousins” on the CT River, almost everyone slows way down so that they don’t rock us with their wake. What a welcome contrast. I guess that’s because they know they might run into us sometime in the future. At home, they couldn’t care less as they blast along leaving a 4’ wake to toss us around. Very unfortunate.
Speaking of “carbon footprint”, on the last day of the programs in preparation for the Salty Dawg Rally to the BVI, we were treated to a live USCG “rescue” right off of the marina docks. It was just amazing to see the chopper hovering a few hundred feet from us.
Before the chopper arrived a small cutter was on scene to be sure that nobody strayed into the “hurricane zone” while the chopper was hovering overhead.
Our “MC” for the discussion that proceeded the “rescue” we had two “Coasties” who shared a lot of terrific information on how to do our best to avoid a ride in a chopper in the future. Very nice guy but he did look serious. “I’d like a show of hands if you have an EPIRB on board. Another if it’s registered with your current information.” Everyone’s hand went up. Then he smiled.
Our rescue chopper is the only one in the USCG that is painted yellow instead of sporting the normal diagonal orange stripe. We were told that it was a “centennial edition” marking the 100th anniversary of the USCG. Think of it as sort of “Eddie Bauer” USCG chopper edition without the soft denim settees. Well, perhaps not exactly like that because they have to be able to hose everything down after all the salt what they kick up. “Hey you, scuba man, yeah I’m talking to you! Rinse off before you sit there. This is s a special edition craft you are dripping on.”
“Do I have to go? It’s really windy out there.” It was windy with about 20kts from the north and the salt spray kicked up by the massive down-wash from the spinning rotors coated all of the boats in the marina with a fine mist of salt.
Then they lowered him to the water. For a second “rescue” he jumped.
All and all, it was a fascinating experience with everyone feeling better prepared and more certain than ever that they wanted to do whatever they could to avoid having one of these guys swim up to their boat and greeting them with “Good morning. I’ll be your rescue swimmer today.”
It’s comforting to know that the USCG has my back and that if I ever have to “pop my EPIRB” and call for help, that the “Calvary” will be on their way soon enough. Oh yeah, if you want a chopper ride, don’t go more than about 250 miles from shore as that’s their limit. Of course, they have boats to but they are WAY SLOWER.
So, with no need for rescue on the horizon, here we are motoring along in flat calm on a beautiful morning. What a way to go. It’s beautiful day indeed.
Oh yeah, you know the thing about “cruising is boat repair in exotic places?”. Yesterday was fun as my head macerator pump croaked and spilled raw sewerage into the bilge. That was fun. Sorry, no photos but be assured that there was plenty of cleanup with bleach after I was done, Brenda.
Happily, I carry a spare, now installed, so all’s well. Such is the fun of boating.



While I know Pandora pretty well by now, having put perhaps 5,000 miles on her in my first year, there are still needling problems that I have not been able to correct so far. In particular, some pesky leaks that have been hard to track down. Perhaps the worst are with the long lexan ports on the main cabin that tend to leak when it gets cold and they shrink more than the surrounding fiberglass. I am hoping to get them replaced in Beaufort NC where Pandora will sit for a few months prior to running to the BVI in January.
In case you have missed it somehow, Pandora has an impressive and nicely designed hard dodger to keep us out of the weather. This is a shot of her at the dock today here in Hampton. I think that she looks like she means business.
Today I presented a talk about our trip to Cuba at the Hampton Yacht Club to a group of nearly 60 “Salty Dawgs” and was thrilled with how well received what I had to say was. They asked lots of good questions and laughed at all my jokes. Well, there was one joke that didn’t get much of a rise out of them. I’ll live.
And, in case you are inclined to forget that the biggest employer in these parts is none other than “Uncle Sam”, one of the advanced “stealth” cruisers passed us on her way into Norfolk. Stealthy or not, she showed up just fine on radar. Stealth? Hmm… Perhaps someone forgot to flip the ‘stealth switch”. Never the less, I was impressed.
Ok, enough for now. I had better sign off for now as there is a session to go to now. Besides, it’s happy hour after that and that’s not something I want to miss.
What a marathon day…
Aren’t they cute together?
The biggest project of this season was to take the higher capacity water maker from our old boat and combine it with the smaller unit that came with “new” Pandora.
Spectra has an automated system they call “MPC”, basically a computer that controls it’s functions including startup as well as deciding when to divert “product water” to the tanks. It even flushes the salt water out of the system and shuts it down when the tanks are full. It’s a terrific system. Expensive, but terrific.
The new system, with two pumps is set up with the one on the right serving as a ‘booster” when more capacity is needed.
I ran this idea by the manufacturer as well as their rep here in New England and both thought my idea was sound.
I hope that this cuts down the noise.
She’s also all shined up. You can see your reflection in her hull.
With the sometimes overwhelming list of “to-do’s” and finding myself potentially facing grave “marital strife” if I didn’t get that bathroom done, it felt pretty dark there for a while. Mom, your words rang true once again as the sun did finally did come up.
Crap just about everywhere.
Some spilled out into the cockpit.
However, sun the sun came up after all and everything is back in place.
So now, let’s hope that the weather window is there for a departure for warmer climes as planned next week.
Now, wasn’t that easy? Heater exposed. Doesn’t look bad at all.
However, as is so often the case, the “beauty was only skin deep”. I removed the stainless outer case and all of the insulation to see what I was up against. Oops, major “up against”, in store for me. Here’s what lurked beneath. This shot is a bit fuzzy (no make that a lot fuzzy) but you can still see major corrosion on the hot water outlet fitting. It’s the dark spot on the lower left fitting in the picture. That hole was eaten right through the aluminium fitting.
But wait, there’s more…. On various other spots on the tank I could see that corrosion had worked it’s way through the heater casing. This spot is on the back of the unit, far from any fittings. The water had eaten through the shell itself. See the grey weeping spot?
Water eating through aluminum? I learned recently that product water from a reverse osmosis unit is very corrosive on aluminum, something that was news to me. It seems that RO water is very low in PH and eats most any non-noble metal. Think aluminum. This turned out to be a problem for me as I use the RO unit for most of my water production as did the last owner. Here’s what I found on a
Well, plenty of room around it until the heating and AC ducting goes back in. After that, “what heater? I don’t see no heater…”
For now, everything is in place and it works. That’s good too.