Sail Pandora

A few days in the “Beaches”.

It’s Thursday morning and we are anchored in North Lake Worth, a long open part of the ICW that spans the “Beaches”.  That would be West Palm Beach, Palm Beach etc.    The anchorage, unlike so many others in FL is quite open with room for many boats.  Lake Worth inlet is about 3.5mi south of here and it’s a very popular jumping off spot for folks heading over to the Abacos, the northern Bahamas.

Yesterday we headed out of the Ft Pierce inlet and ran down the 50 miles from there to the Lake Worth inlet on the ocean side.  We had a bit more wind than we wanted, topping out at over 20kts, and the seas were pretty big, although on our stern.   Pandora handled it very well but Brenda was less than enthusiastic about the rough ride, as you can imagine.   And, it was also pretty cool, in the low 60s. Before you Northerners get all uppity with comments like,  “Bob, you don’t know cold!  How about 30” of snow and 20 degrees?”, don’t forget that it’s supposed to be WARM here and to sit out in the wind all day in the low 60s can get a bit chilly.

OK, OK, so I am getting soft.   However, don’t go feeling too sorry for us as today it’s supposed to be in the low 70s and warmer than that in the next few days.

Our plan is to hang out here for a few days and then to head further down, likely on the ICW, not outside, to Boca Raton and then on to Ft Lauderdale.  This part of the ICW is very pretty, if jammed with bridges, sometimes every mile that only open on their schedule.  And, don’t be even a minute late or you have to wait another half hour or hour for the next opening.    If you can keep up a steady 7kts between bridges, the openings are supposed to be timed so you can make all of them with a minimum of delays.  Well, that’s the theory anyway.

The homes along this part of the ICW, known as “The Gold Coast” are huge with each one bigger than the last.  I always wonder if some, or most, are paid for with “Ill gotten gains”.   As most of these are probably second homes, I can only imagine with their “real house” looks like.The simple way to avoid the delays of all the bridges is to head back out of the Lake Worth inlet and make a short 30 mile run down to Lauderdale in the ocean.  However, we really enjoy Boca Raton, which is about half way from Lake Worth to Ft Lauderdale,  as there is a particularly good anchorage and would like to spend a few days there.  Alas, life is full of compromises when you are Snow Birds.

Anyway, today I am planning to do a bit of exploring ashore and Brenda’s going to catch up on her weaving.  She’s working on a small, if challenging, piece that has an early March deadline and she hasn’t made much progress so far.  Weaving involves a lot of trial and error to get the image right.  As a result, she weaves and then un-weaves often which makes for sloooow progress.

Friday we will be meeting up with old friends Linda and Richard who live in West Palm Beach.   In a previous life I worked with Linda and it’s always nice to see them when we are on our way through the area.

Yesterday’s run was quite a romp and a few times our speed, as we surfed down the face of a wave, topped out at a bit over 9kts.  That’s pretty fast.   Brenda spent much of the day down below as it was pretty cold up on deck.  I saw a couple of dolphins near the bow and at one point I saw an enormous sea turtle.  Unfortunately, my camera was down below and as we were going so fast, he was gone in the blink of an eye.   I would estimate that he was about 4.5’ long and his head was as large as a cantaloupe.  A pretty amazing sight.

It’s going to be a beautiful if somewhat overcast day here with temperatures to be in the low 70s.  What a dramatic sunrise we enjoyed a short time ago.A great way to get the day started for a couple of aging snowbirds hanging out at the “Beaches” here in sort of sunny Florida. 

Pandora’s on the move, we think…

It’s Tuesday morning and we’ve been in Vero Beach for a week now.   We had hoped to spend a few more days here as it’s such a great spot.  However, the weather seems to suggest that either we head out early in the morning tomorrow or we will have to hang out until the middle of next week.  With that in mind, we’ll be heading down to anchor near the Ft Pierce inlet later this afternoon so we can jump out early on Wednesday to make the run down to the Ft Worth inlet, about 50 miles south.  I spoke to Chris Parker, the weather router, earlier today and he thinks we will get a good sail in if we leave as planned.  Let’s hope that he’s right. It will be nice to let Pandora stretch her legs for a bit.  Fingers crossed.

Well, here’s a shot of Pandora on her mooring just off of the fuel dock today in Vero.  A very nice day, if a bit cool.The other day I ran into a post on a blog about guests on board a small sailboat. It seems to me that she captures the point pretty well although I am not personally too big on pets aboard.  I am definitely too anal for the whole hair thing.  Last night we had a very nice couple, Bob and Connie of SV/Meredith aboard for a “sundowner” and during the conversation he mentioned the 6-4-2 rule.  Six for cocktails, four for dinner and two sleep over.  That about sums it up for me and Brenda.  Bob and Connie have been living aboard for years and have sailed extensively in the Med as well as the Caribbean, including Cuba.   It was great to compare notes with them.  

Anyway, speaking of guests on board and who sleeps over, this post on a site Where the Coconuts Grow, is pretty cute.  Check it out. It seems that the author , Jodi is sailing in the Caribbean and there are some really great photos to boot.   Here’s a link to her site, Where the coconuts Grow.  Fun.   

Perhaps we’ll be going where the coconuts grow next winter.  Yes, technically we are there now but not THERE, way south in the Caribbean.  For now, we are on our way, day by day.

 

Pomp and ceremony at the Vero Beach Yacht Club.

It’s Monday morning with a bit of wind and rain, brief and intense, thrown in for good measure.   Today’s going to be a day of chores as we explore the Vero Shuttle System to do some errands.  We also need, need, to do some laundry.  I’d be happy to do the laundry and let Brenda focus on her weaving however, I am not “authorized” do handle such things as it seems I lack the ability to discern the difference between a shop towel and fine linens.  Ok, ok, perhaps I do not appreciate the subtle differences in the world of textiles but to ban me from the laundry?  Doesn’t it seem a bit harsh to you?  Common, support me on this.  I am a domestic guy and just want to help.

Well, this isn’t a “self help” column so I guess I’ll just accept my lot.

Anyway, there is much more to Vero Beach than laundry so I’ll focus on other things for now.

As members of the Essex Yacht Club Brenda and I enjoy  visiting other clubs in our travels with the hope that they will offer reciprocity and allow us to use their facilities and meet some of their members.   With this in mind, I contacted the Vero Beach Yacht Club the other day with the hope of visiting for brunch on Sunday with our friends Chuck and Sandy.   Unfortunately, I left my blue blazer at home so I kept my fingers crossed that we would still be welcome to visit, “dress down” or not.

As luck would have it, the club is very friendly and welcomed us in spite of my “wardrobe challenges”.  And, as an added bonus, it turned out that yesterday included a very formal “passing the flag” from the outgoing to the incoming Commodore, so the club was a-buzz with activity.

I introduced myself and met a number of officers and board members and I have to say that we really felt welcomed.  They even agreed to send me some of their “official” photos from the event as I mentioned that I’d like to write a short piece for the Essex Yacht Club newsletter about our visit.  Not to rub it in, but as we are enjoying the warmth of VBYC, the folks in Essex are getting ready for yet another snow and ice storm.

As with many yacht clubs, the VBYC takes their traditions, including a great buffet, very seriously.    There was cannon firing, the blessing of the fleet and a parade of member boats by the dock with each receiving their own “canon salute”.    Lots of noise and fun.

The officers paraded up the dock, looking very smart indeed.Don’t they look dapper all lined up just so?And, to cap off things they even had a bagpiper in his formal dress to make for a perfect experience.I promised that I would send a EYC burgee to hang in their burgee room.   Speaking of the burgee room, they have a “happy hour”, actually a “happy two hour”, on Wednesday so I think that we’ll have to visit again before we head further south later in the week. 

How about a “visiting yachtsman” portrait of me and Brenda.  Not sure what the “compact” sign means? Are they making a statement about those of us that are “vertically challenged”?  My mother always told me that I was big.  Besides, I am taller than Brenda, well a little taller.  Hmm…Anyway, perhaps I should close with some lovely shots from yesterday morning of the early light.  What a great spot, Vero Beach.  No wonder they call it “Velcro Beach”, yes it will indeed be tough to leave such a great spot.  I guess that Vero is our newest favorite place to visit. 

Enjoying Velcro, I mean Vero Beach.

It’s Sunday morning here in “Velcro” Beach.  No wait, I meant to say Vero Beach Florida.  However, it’s easy to lapse and call it by it’s “cruiser name, Velcro” as once you get here, you won’t want to leave.  Me, I have trouble sticking in one place for more than a few days but I have to say that Vero is a great spot to settle and NEVER MOVE AGAIN.   It’s chilly this morning and the heater is running but I am sure that it will warm up later in the day as it’s forecast to be a beautiful day.

The harbor has room for more than 100 boats on moorings and in the marina and we got a great spot on a mooring just off of the main dock.  It’s very pretty.  However, when the breeze drops at night, watch out for “no-see-ums” as they will find you.

The harbor and mornings are owned by the city and the staff at the marina office is very helpful and friendly.  The moorings, and there are a lot of them, are not expensive, at less than $20 per day and less than about $350 per month.  And, the city runs a shuttle bus system that is amazingly extensive so you can get most anywhere in the city with a minimum of fuss.  Of course, if you don’t know the schedule you can easily sit at a bus stop for nearly an hour waiting for the next bus.  However, you can’t beat the cost, “$0” per ride.

I had heard that Vero is a great spot to visit with it’s amazing bus system and terrific harbor, but on our last trip through here we had only spent a night or two so didn’t “do Vero” properly.   Well, not this time.  This time I expect that we will spend a week.

“A week Bob?  Are you kidding?  You’ve never stayed ANYWHERE for a week!?”   Yes, I know it sounds implausible but I am trying to SLOW DOWN as I enter my 4th year of retirement.  Honest…

Well, Brenda is doubtful too, but we’ve already been here since Thursday and  it’s Sunday.  A week doesn’t sound that far off.  Really…  That’s of course, as long as there isn’t a weather window…  No, I must be strong.  A week…

Besides, the shuttle bus system is FREE.  I WILL BE STRONG.

Anyway, the last few days here have been very pleasant and shuttle or not, the beach is only about a 20 minute walk from the marina and the neighborhoods you walk through (yes, the shuttle does take you there too) are very scenic.

Along the way are modest homes shaded by massive live oaks.  Quite beautiful. I was struck by this huge staghorn fern.  What an amazing specimen.The last few days have been very pleasant with daytime temperatures in the 70s with cooler, but not too cool, nights.  Today is the first since we arrived in Vero when I turned on the heater.  Love those new batteries.  Yesterday it rained hard in the AM but cleared off to a beautiful, if windy, day. 

I believe that I mentioned that I had put a hole in our dink a few days ago and I have been consumed with fixing that hole.  First, I used some glue that I had aboard to affix the patch.  Alas, it didn’t hold as it wasn’t a good quality glue.  Well, it held long enough to pump up the boat but as soon as the sun hit it and expanded the air, the patch couldn’t handle the higher pressure air and gave way.  So, I had to laboriously remove the glue and try again with a two-part glue that I purchased at a marine supply place in town.  However, that glue has a 48 hour cure time which meant that we have been without out “family car” for two days.  If you think it’s hard for me to stay in an anchorage for a week, imagine me trying to stay aboard for TWO DAYS in port.  Not easy, I assure you.  Well, Chuck and Sandy, our friends aboard Summer Wind, came to our rescue and have been our “shore link” for the last two days, picking us up so we wouldn’t be stuck.  Well, today is the big day when I will once again, pump up the dink.  I so hope that it holds.  We are so dependent on the dink to get us around that if my patch doesn’t hold then I will have to find a place to take it for some professional help.  I would think that I should be in good shape though as I did follow the directions.  Fingers, and toes, crossed.

Anyway, we have enjoyed Vero and are looking forward a spending more time here prior to heading further south.

Today we hope to have brunch at the Vero  Beach Yacht Club and take another walk over to the beach.  Should be a nice sunny day.  Rumor has it that things aren’t so warm and sunny at home in CT.  Glad we’re here.   Have I mentioned that I like warm.  Yes, warm is good.

 

 

 

There’s only two kinds of cruisers on the ICW.

I’s Thursday morning and we are anchored behind a very small island about 5 miles north of Vero Beach.  For reasons that aren’t clear to me, the spot is officially called “Jones Fruit Dock”.   And yes, there appears to be a long dock nearby but I didn’t see any sign of life and certainly no fruit.  Anyway,  the spot is impossibly narrow and we crept into the inlet very slowly to be sure that we didn’t run aground. 

I was particularly sensitive to the “running aground thing” as a few miles up the ICW, earlier in the day, we, no make that “I” as Brenda was down below, had run aground solidly as we tried to find our way around a dredging barge that was, not surprisingly, working in the middle of the channel.  I had called them to ask for directions in passing but did not get an answer.  As I am not used to passing a working vessel at an arms-length, I decided to give them a “reasonable” distance pass.  Oops, not a good choice, too far to the left of the channel.  Bump, bump, bump, you are stopping now… We were aground.

So, for the next half hour, or was it two hours, we worked ourselves around bit by bit.  I was pretty sure that we were there for the duration, and didn’t see any solution save a call to the towboat service (yes I paid my dues).  However, with Brenda at the helm and the engine roaring, I put up the genoa and hiked out on the lee rail until finally we were free.  I guess the final “push” came from a bit of wind combined with my extra weight, such as it is, out on the rail to heel us over ever so much more.  Well, that did the trick.

Unfortunately, there isn’t enough of me to make much of a difference when it comes to hiking on the rail, so I have decided to have an extra biscuit, or two, for breakfast today.  You can never have too much movable “ballast” for next time and I am sure that there will indeed be a next time.

So, there you have it, the two kinds of cruisers on the ICW are those who have run aground and those who lie about it.    Me, I am the former even if I am not proud of it.

Sorry, no pictures of our escape and narrow pass near the dredge.  There’s something unsettling about pointing directly at an anchored dredge, less than 100’ away at 3,500RPM with the genoa up and sheeted in.  Too busy, I guess.

Well, compared to that fun time, the rest of the day was uneventful but I have to say that I was plenty ready to drop the hook and enjoy a drink with Brenda after a long day of standing at the wheel.

Happily, the days are pretty warm now with yesterday the first reliably “short sleeve” day so far.  And, if that’s not enough, this morning was the first that I didn’t have to turn on the heat when I got up.

Yahoo, we have arrived.  It’s WARM again.  When the temperatures begin to head “south” in the chilly north, I often say “well, it will get better in May”, now I guess I can say that “it will get better in Vero Beach”.   Yes, we are now officially in “sunny Florida”, and I am thankful for it.

Last evening , after anchoring in this lovely spot, Brenda and I sat up on the bow of Pandora and enjoyed the sunset.  As the light began to fade, and the mosquitos began to arrive but we won’t dwell on that right now, a dolphin slowly swam by and entertained us with his rhythmic breathing as he surfaced every few yards, while overhead the pelicans flew by heading home for the evening.   It was a pretty idyllic moment and a lot nicer than being aground on a sandbar.

I didn’t get a photo of the sunset last evening as I was too busy drinking my G&T but I did get this shot of the early sunrise in Cocoa yesterday morning.  This view captures the mood of last night aboard Pandora pretty well.Cocoa was a fun place to spend a few days and Brenda made a point of visiting the local knitting store to get some silk yarn for a small format tapestry that she is working on that will be in a show in the spring.  The show calls for pieces that are only 4”x6”.  She will be working very small so getting the detail perfect at that scale will be tough.  This is the image that she has chosen, a shot that I took early in our trip this year.  I am excited to see how she interprets this in fabric.  It will be a challenging piece to weave.

As I mentioned in a previous post, Cocoa is pretty serious about their waterfront area and this shot shows how much boardwalk they have.  It’s a nice spot to walk in the later afternoon light.While Brenda was picking out yarn for her tapestry, I was visiting that great hardware store that the town is known for.  I had put a link into my last post about this amazing store but I couldn’t resist taking a few shots of the row after row of items neatly stacked on shelves.  It’s hard to say how big the store is but trust me, you have never been in a hardware store that is better than this one. 

How about an entire section of stainless steel fittings?Or, a row of woven pickup straps?There is no shortage of screws and bolts on this isle.  “Do you have a 4″ #10 SS pan head self tapping sheet metal screw?”.  “How many do you need?”. Who knows what this section holds but that’s a LOT of metal bins.  I wonder where they found so many drawers?  As my father would have said, “at the used drawer store”.   Probably right.Hey, who left the Home Depot “Homer bucket” in isle 25?

And, speaking of hardware, this trip aboard Pandora is no different than what most folks who cruise expect as they say “cruising is boat repair in exotic places”.  And this trip has proven to have a few “repair opportunities”, as I have come to expect.

Two examples:   A few days ago I put a 3” rip in my inflatable dink at a dock where I snagged an exposed nail.  Oops!  I think it’s fixed now but only time will tell if the patch holds.

And, yesterday I noticed that the engine wasn’t charging the batteries so I “pulled over” and anchored to check it out.  After two stops and several hours of hunting, I was able to track the problem down to a cable end attached (well, it used to be attached) to one of the terminals on the engine alternator, that had cracked and was not longer connected.  Of course, I didn’t have a spare “end” but was able to jury-rig a temporary solution that seems to be holding.   Later today I will take the cable out of the boat and go to a battery shop in Vero Beach and have a new end fitting crimped on.

It is amazing to me that so much can go wrong, even on a well maintained boat like Pandora.  I’d hate to even think of cruising if I wasn’t able to handle simple repairs myself.  Note:  If you are the type of guy that calls in a repair guy to change a tough to reach light bulb, don’t cruise on a small boat.

Well, I am pleased to have the toughest, or at least the coldest, part of the trip behind me and I am looking forward to balmy evenings and not too hot days here in sunny Florida.  Perhaps this “pirate ship” that we passed yesterday anchored in the lee of a small island is a nice shot to use in closing out this post.  It’s funny how many of these “home built” pirate ships we have seen along the ICW but this one looks pretty authentic, save the solar panels on deck. So there, I have come clean, for a second time, that I have indeed run aground on the ICW.   I cannot tell a lie. However, don’t ask me to tell you about the “one that got away”.   Well, it was big, really big.  You will just have to trust me on that.  HONEST!

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