The yachts of Antigua. Bring your check book.
It’s Thursday morning and we have been in Antigua for… Actually, I don’t want to think about how long we have been here as there are so many other islands to visit and we don’t have a lot of time left before I have to head back to the BVIs. However, it’s been really windy so we can’t leave. And that’s that, for now, I guess.
Our son Christopher arrives here in less than a week and after that, on April 10th, Brenda flies home to attend a conference. We are finding that booking a flight from Antigua to Hartford CT is tougher than we had thought. When I did some preliminary checking on flights several months ago before committing to have her leave from here, I looked at schedules and saw that an early morning flight from here would arrive in Hartford late in the evening. That sounded pretty good to us.
What I didn’t realize is that a flight that left first thing in the morning arrived in Hartford late in the evening, the NEXT DAY. These flights were not in the range of 13 hours that I thought, but more like 26 hours. Oops. Minor detail. Brenda’s thrilled. Not.
Anyway, I haven’t booked anything quite yet but it’s looking like she’s going to have to fly to Miami, Dominica or pehaps Puerto Rico and then stay in a hotel there for a night and then fly out the next day. There are some flights that can get here there the same day but they are in the $1,000 range, one way. Not really practical.
It would be easy if she could fly into Newark or perhaps one of the NY airports. Hartford? It seems that nobody wants to go to Hartford from Antigua. Makes sense, actually. Better than Cleveland I’d expect.
I have also been trying to come to grips with my own trip home. The problem is that after Brenda leaves and I spend a week with my friend Craig who’s coming here to Antigua. After he leaves I will still have about a month until my return crew arrives to bring Pandora back to CT. I really don’t want to be on my own without Brenda for that long as nice as it is in the BVIs.
So, the plan, I think, is for me to fly home for a few weeks and the return to the BVIs to prepare to bring Pandora north. Besides, I can fly into Baltimore and see Tori, our grandaughter. Remember? The cutest granddaughter EVER!
She’s excited to see her grampy.
Oh yeah, I’ll see her parents too.
That’s all fine but the logistics of our collective travel plans is a bit overwhelming. I guess that shouldn’t be a surprise after several decades of moving boats around. Such is the life of land and sea. I have to remind me that this is a lot more appealing than having the boat on the hard in New England for the winter.
Repeat after me, it’s hard but the tropics are better. It’s hard but the tropics are better. It’s hard but…
So, her we are in Antigua STILL. The good news is that there are plenty of other cruisers that are stuck here with us because of the continuing strong winds.
And, with the classic yacht regatta, and the place being a very popular place to base sailing charter yachts, so there is plenty to look at and admire.
When we sat overlooking Nelson’s Dock Yard at lunch the other day, the view included some magnificant yachts, each swarming with workers painting and varnishing.
There’s two huge schooners from the UK that are right next to each other, a sort of “his and hers” deal. Workers with brushes all over each of them getting them ready for the upcoming classic yacht races.
Some of the yachts are hard to actually see as they are covered with so much canvas to protect the decks and all that paint and varnish from the tropical sun.
I think I used a shot of this beauty in a previous post. However, as the “belle of the harbor” I just have to show her again. I wonder how many crew it takes to keep her looking like this?
Not all of the yachts are not classics but many are. This one, complete with a serious looking flat black hull sported it’s own chopper.
I thought that this was an interesting boat. The companionway is unique. I expect that the dodger wasn’t part of the original design. And, not even a tiny bit of varnish to look after.
No varnish on this racer either. I’ll bet she screams on a reach and is really noisy with a tooth jarring ride.
This yacht looks like it can go just about anywhere with it’s wave piercing bow.
Nice dink. No getting wet when crossing a choppy harbor in that.
Not your usual bow profile. Surely she can go into most anything without slowing down.
And, speaking of bows. Many of the classics sport enormous overhangs. Especially the classic America’s Cup Js from the 30s. This is Ranbow. She’s actually not original but was launched just a few years ago from the original plans. And, she, like all the Js sailing today, sports carbon spars. Beautiful.
Not a lot of cabin varnish to keep up on a 90′ yacht. It’s perfect though.
There’s something like less than a dozen of these classic J yachts in the world today. However, there are more now than in the 30s, when they raced for The Cup. Several have been recently constructed to original plans drawn and never built. Of course, they raced during the Great Depression. It’s interesting that several more were also built during the recent Great Recession. Says something about the rich getting richer.
Not certain which one this is. I think Lionheart. It’s just so hard to keep them straight. So many Js to choose from and most of them are here in Antigua right now. Imagine the spinnaker that uses that pole?
Amazing overhangs.
Not all of the big sailing yachts are Js but they all sport those lovely lines.
Nice butt too.
Interesting bimini. Perhaps not all weather but hey, the owner isn’t going to be slogging to weather in a gale. That’s the job of the crew.
This beauty spends her summers in Vinyard Haven. I’ve seen here there. She was built by Gannon and Benjamin a few years ago, right in that harbor. She’s also down for the regatta.
Another nice if more modest classic. I’ll bet her decks don’t leak a drop.
Well, I guess that’s enough “eye candy” for now. It’s time to make the coffee. After looking at all of these magnificant yachts, perhaps I’ll have a cappuccino. I do so wish that I had a steward to fetch it for me. James, James! Is that you? “No, you idiot, it’s the wind. Make your own d%$# coffee.”
Oh well. No steward. However, I will have the electonics guy on board today or soon to finish up on the SSB install. Let’s hope that it works as my trip north is coming up fast and for the moment, it’s the ONLY thing that’s not working properly. However, I don’t want to jinx it…
Heck, it’s only money and pennies, no make that fractions of pennies on the dollar compared to the rest of the yachts in the neighborhood.
Yes, Antigua. Beautiful sailing yachts and plenty of them. Bring your check book.



I mention this because cruisers, bound together, or pinned down, as it were, by common experiences are very supportive of one another. In our case, Nick and Lori-Anne on Wreckless Faith, gave us two tickets to a Cricket match that we went to on Sunday. So, we went. How’s that for a segue?
We arrived at the stadium with absolutely no idea what to expect. The place was huge and jammed with enthusiastic “cricketeers” rooting for their teams. The “home team” West Indies and the other England. As Antigua was once a colony of England, I was wondering if it was a “grudge match” but while there were plenty of fans from both island nations, it was a friendly crowd. And, there were lots of them.
We had great seats right behind “home wicket”, if that’s what you’d call where we were. Across the circular field, and it was a big one, another set of stands.
The tickets said that the gate opened at 07:30 but we didn’t arrive until mid morning. The game was in full swing with lots of action on the field. The score board said…
Actually, I had absolutely no idea what it said. What in the world is a P’ship? Or an Overs Rem?… As luck would have it, there were two very British looking gents sitting right in front of us and when prompted, happily agreed to help us better understand what was going on. However, I still have no idea what a P’ship is and based on their answers to my questions, it takes years to really understand the game. Forgive me, but that just sounds so British to make up a game that is impossibly complicated.
Brenda and I were entranced by this beautiful girl with her painted face. A little different view to be sure. GO WEST INDIES!
I’ll show you a few photos of the action, and there was plenty. This is what a “pitch” looks like. Very fast with the ball going toward the batter at close to 100mph. The guy in blue is the pitcher, and he puts everthing he has into thew windup for the pitch if that’s not completely clear.
And, not 50′ away is the batter on the receiving end of all that power. He has to be very, very fast with his reflexes with the ball screaming toward him.
The white “frame” behind the batter is actually called a “wicket” but that’s about all I know. And one of the many, many objects of the game and the game lasts something like 8 hours if you can believe it, is for the pitcher to hit the wicket with the ball while the batter tries to hit the ball beyond the “rope” that is laid on the ground in a huge circle around the field. Got it? Good.
Trying to come up with something witty to say about Chirpy but just can’t. It’s just a grown man dressed up as a giant green bug suit.
While Antigua is a neat island, the Caribbean is a big place and we really don’t want to be in one place for too long as there is just so much we want to see. The first problem is that the SSB still isn’t installed, although it might be finished by early next week. Second, the winds continue to be very strong and while going to Guadalupe is a reach both ways, the waves are really big, at about 10′ and the north swell is also up, which would make for a really bumpy run.
However, upon closer inspection, the extent of the damage becomes obvious.
And that’s not all… Oh, so that’s why “can you hear me now?” didn’t get me anywhere.
The moral of this story is clearly that salt and electronics don’t mix. Frankly, given the harsh environment that this equipment functions in, or not function as it were, it’s amazing that more stuff doesn’t die a nasty death. So, as soon as our new SSB winds it’s way through the import agent, who BTW gets 4% for his efforts, I am hopeful that this will all get sorted out.
However, once closer, it’s a much more manicured.
The ships, and there were three or four of them, loomed over the downtown area.
And, of course, plenty of stalls catering to the “I need a souvenir from Antigua, cruise ship crowd”. Not hard to choose, or not, as just about every booth had exactly the same stuff. Not a lot of creativity. Perhaps they know their customers and when 10,000 new ones show up each day, know what sells.
Much of the downtown area, less the cruise ships, reminded us of some of the places in Cuba we visited last winter except this, a Burger King. A bit depressing but hey, everybody loves a taste of home I guess. And no, we didn’t eat lunch there.
Anyway, it was an interesting day but alas, we came away empty handed. No tchotchkes that called out to us. Oh well.
So, for now, just pinned down in paradise. It could be worse, it could be snowing.
So, here’s our teacher Bishop, a lifelong resident of Antigua, beginning his lesson. with “Now, boys and girls, pay attention”.
The first thing you do is to decide what size you want the finished product to be, say 12″ long and measure out four times that amount.
Then you use a fid, or wire to pull one end of the line inside the line itself. You end up with a loop at the end where you pulled the line into itself.
Then you take one end of the line and make a loop.
Then put another loop with the other end.
Pull that end through the other loop,
Then you end up with something that looks like a pretzel.
After that, well you just had to be there. It’s not easy to explain but you put the lines through and through like some sort of demented snake or rabbit running in and out of a hole and around a tree… Got it? Don’t feel bad, I didn’t either.
You pull it tight and put the knot end into the loop end and you have a soft shackle.
Remember the photo of what it looks like from earlier in the post? Now, wasn’t that easy?
Enough of that.
Then he turned to face us and showed off his iridescent green head. It looked like a beacon.
The view from our table of the tiny harbor.
As the light faded, the place looked more and more beautiful.
The restaurant was named Pillars after the pillars, remains of a building that once stood in the dockyard.
After dinner we went for a walk through the boat yard. It was a beautiful winter, shirt sleeve evening. “Bob, don’t rub it in. We get it. Warm and lovely”
All and all, visiting Antigua has been wonderful if expensive from an SSB perspective at least and with the strong winds we won’t be going anywhere until things settle down a bit and the new SSB is installed. I understand that it will arrive in Antigua within a few days.
I have to say that as photos go, this one “looks like a million bucks” or at least like way more than a few boat dollars. Let’s hope that there’s a pot of gold at the end, we’ll need it.
This was more my type of “cruise ship”. I expect that there is a very good ratio of crew to guests on this beauty as it’s a private yacht. In my next life perhaps… Perhaps not…
Anyway, as we made our way down the coast toward Nunsuch Bay we passed some really dramatic scenery. Not particularly lush as Antigua is a dry island but beautiful, never the less. That’s Kalunamoo, Bill and Maureen’s year round home (the boat, not Antigua), BTW.
However, in spite of the “nothing between us and Spain thing”, the water in this harbor is flat calm, compliments of a reef that breaks the waves completely. Nearby there is a tiny, oh so scenic beach. I took our dink there for a walk. Not the dink. I went for the walk. The dink stayed on the beach, of course. The area near the beach is rugged and I couldn’t find a trail, but the cove, lovely.
Pandora’s new mascot and crew member Louis, (that is to be pronounced with a decidedly French accent, of course as he is from St Martin, on the French side) was happy to lounge for the afternoon on one of the “chaise” lounge chairs aboard Pandora. He has settled in nicely to life aboard Pandora.
One tradition with couples aboard cruising boats, well at least the ones we know, is to get together for “sundowners” and pot luck suppers. And, last night we hosted a gathering aboard Pandora for the “crews” of six boats. Louis was quite excited and spent much of the afternoon waiting for his “friends” to show up. He gazed longingly at Kalunamoo, waiting for Bill and Maureen to visit, particularly Maureen as Louis is French, of course.
Finally they arrived. He was happy that the “guys” stayed up in the cockpit talking shop, while the “ladies”, his favorite of course, were down below with him. He took this group shot. Nice collection, he thought and he had them all to himself. However, he did keep a low profile so as to not dominate the conversation. Besides, his English is still a bit rusty.
Everyone contributed and what a spread it was. Yum…
As if to put a final “capstone” on the evening, the sun put on a wonderful display with a perfect setting. And you know how much I just love sunsets.
It is evenings like this that are among the best of cruising and to be in a “far away” harbor among friends is a great way to spend time together. Yes, home is indeed where we are and right now that’s aboard Pandora. Besides, Brenda likes to say that her favorite part of cruising is “being anchored” and we have been anchored in a lovely spot indeed.