Hail Columbia!
It’s been more than a week since Brenda and I left St Lucia, and returned to Antigua and we will be flying out on Sunday.
Normally, I would stay behind and wait for crew to arrive but this year I decided to make the trip back to the US to help Brenda prepare for the remodeling of our kitchen, a job that is expected to take several months. However, it’s not looking great for a timely start for the job as our tile guy just bowed out of the job due to some sort of family issue. That’s a real setback so it’s doubly important for me to spend a few weeks trying to get things back on track.
One of the reasons that we hustled back to Antigua was with the hope that I’d be able to get aboard Columbia a reproduction of a classic fishing schooner for the Classic Yacht Regatta, an event that brings beautiful yachts from all over. There are plenty of great boats that would be racing but she was the one that I wanted to be aboard.
My friend Franklyn had spent a lot of time aboard Columbia and put in a good word for me with the captain, Seth. At first it didn’t seem too promising but when I showed up on the first day of racing as directed by the Captain, he waved me aboard. After we all went below and signed in and were issued shirts, we assembled on deck for a briefing.
Captain Seth is very focused on safety and while he wants to win and expects a lot from his crew, he made a point that we were supposed to have fun and, of course, stay aboard Columbia. At the end of his daily briefing, he led the crew in a rousing chant of “hail Columbia”, a great way to begin a day of racing.
It was awesome to be aboard such a spectacular yacht for three days of racing. The wind was forecast to be breezy and that’s exactly what we got.
Even getting her underway from the dock is a sight to behold.
Each day we had different colored shirts, including those donated by Carib beer. I love that brand and to have a bright yellow shirt and hat to match was great fun.
What a thrill to be aboard and underway.
The “crew” from Carib beer.
The crew thought nothing of climbing, no make that scampering, up the mast to untangle whatever.
To sail on Columbia in “sporty” conditions is nothing short of spectacular! Blasting along in 25-30kts of wind made for a pretty wet ride. At the end of this short video, watch someone be swept down the deck by a boarding wave. My primary job was to tail the port foremast runner. Split second timing was needed to secure the line during a tack. It took three of us to manage the lines. The next three images compliments of Ed Gifford, a great guy, who was onboard as one of the photographers.
This is what happens if you get the timing off, heading to the leeward rail too early. When we were preparing to tack, the three of us would get into position just before the tack. The captain would bear off a bit to gain speed and nd blue water piled up over the rail. I was swept off of my feet once before I learned better. Sometimes, it wasn’t possible to stay out of the maelstrom.
One of the other visiting crew was swept down the side of the boat and while he stayed aboard, his pants came down, underwear and all, to his ankles. Good thing that he was able to keep them from being swept over the side. I doubt that he had a spare pair of shorts handy. “Excuse me, do you have a spare pair of drawers? Mine went over the side. I’d really rather you didn’t stare, or laugh, thankyou very much.”
The amount of water that swept aboard was remarkable. What a view of Ashanti IV, a 110′ schooner that we were racing against.
When I saw these waves sweep the decks, I could only imagine what it must have been like to be in the North Atlantic in the winter fishing for cod when boats like Columbia were the norm. These waves were pretty big and it was just a lovely day for sailing. Imagine a storm…
Captain Seth was recognized by the race committee with the overall prize of a beautiful new Locman watch from Italy. They were an official sponsor of the race.
With my birthday coming up soon, Brenda insisted that I get one too. This photo is probably the coolest that I will ever look. As much as I try, I am just not a particularly cool guy.
It is a really spectacular piece.
The regatta was put on by the Antigua Yacht Club. They are very supportive of the Salty Dawg Rally and are the center of the sailing community in Antigua.
Of course, where there is Carib beer, there are Carib girls.
And a lot of spectacular yachts including Aquijo. She is huge, at nearly 300′ long and billed as the world’s largest performance sailing yacht. Check out her specs and photos. To get a feel for her scale, notice the kayak on the water just behind the forward mast.
Columbia is less than half of her length and is still a really huge yacht herself. Yes, I realize it’s tough to see so here’s a closeup.
Everything about her is enormous. Note the size of the main boom with a member of the crew walking along the top
And, she is as shiny as she is huge.
Of course, what would a visit to Antigua be without spending time with our friends at the Antigua and Barbuda Royal Naval Tot Club, and we did just that. Of course, we had some “Tots” on the lawn in Nelson’s Dockyard.
And even a Tot aboard the lovely 110′ schooner Aschanti IV.
Members of the Tot Club, including the owner of Ashanti IV, can fly the official burgee of the club, the White Pennant.
I have been saying for years that Antigua is the best place to begin and end the cruising season and being back here, our last stop before I begin running Pandora north and home. We decided to treat ourselves to a few days on the docks in Nelson’s Dockyard, a wonderful end to a great season of sailing in the Caribbean.
So, here I am, finishing up on what is likely my last post before heading home to the US until I return in a few weeks to begin my run home.
It’s been a wonderful season, and a lot different than we expected back in the fall when Covid was raging around the world.
All I can say is “Hail Columbia”, and Antigua. It’s been a great season and I can’t wait until next fall to come back again.



As Pandora cuts through the waves, we scare up a lot of flying fish and the seabirds have learned to fly over the waves just in front of our bow to catch the fish that jump out of the water, as they scurry out of our way. This is a brown booby, an impressive bird that lives just about all of it’s life offshore, only going to land to lay eggs.
This may be another shot of a booby but I am not sure. I could not find a photo that matched but I think it’s another species.
We also passed a large school of very enthusiastic dolphins that leapt from the water, but they are notoriously difficult to photograph. Sorry, no images.
And, speaking of schooners. Ashanti, at over 100′ long, is a beauty and I was aboard her as well back in 2018 for a
It is rare to see so many wonderful boats in one place and the Classics is one that draws them. I walked the docks today for a gander.
The yachts that pack the marina are certainly not all classics and there are quite a few that are so huge that they dwarf even the biggest sailboats. One of the largest is the Mayan Queen at 306′ long. Her “beach club”, as the sunning area on the stern of yachts is referred to, gives a good feel for her scale. Imagine how large the interior space is?
It is fitting that this one is called Alpha Nero, as the is “alpha” in every way and no slouch at 270′. She is reported to belong to a Russian. Not surprisingly, nearly all of the yachts owned by Russians have fled the area as of weeks ago as sanctions have been levied on many of them in reprisal for the invasion of Ukraine.
An anchor and chain is a huge weight on a boat and one way to address this is to store your yacht’s anchor on a tender. This boat is designed to carry the anchor for a maxi race boat. They deploy the anchor and pass the chain to the “mother ship”.
And, they won’t have to wait long for the anchor to be delivered with over 1,000 hp. Yup, another Russian owns this boat. The boat that they tender is Scorpios, a 125′ racing yacht, one of the fastest in the world, launched in 2021. Impressive graphics.

She belongs to Limitless, which is what your bank account would need to look like if you owned a yacht like this. She is 315′ long, again, huge. Her owner is Leslie Wexner, the founder of The Limited. He acquired a number of other iconic brands including Abercrombie and Fitch and Victoria’s Secret. Note the open area on the starboard quarter. That is the “garage” for the tender pictured above.
A huge amount of work goes into keeping a yacht in, well, “yachting trim”. These guys were washing the side of a huge sailing yacht today. This tender carries it’s own water supply, kept full from the dock by a large hose. I guess that by carrying their own water they can have an adequate supply even if the pressure from shore isn’t enough to spray high on the hull. Why didn’t I think of that?
And, with a large yacht, you need large fenders, and lots of them. Notice the ones laying sideways on the dock. A rigger is working on one of their forestays and roller furler that is really, really long.
Most of the yachts here have been built fairly recently but not this beauty, Talitha, 271′ long, built in 1930 for the founder of Packard Cars. She is currently owned Mark Getty, the son of JP Getty. Interestingly, Mark Getty founded Getty Images, a clearinghouse for professional photographs used worldwide. It is clear that Mark has fabulous taste. Boy, would I love to get aboard her for a tour.
Ok, one more photo of a sailing yacht that is a big contrast to all the ladies that are in town for the Classic Yacht Regatta. She is the maxi racer named “Controlling The Animal, L4”, a mouthful of a name, launched in 2021. She is one of the fastest racing yachts in the world and she really looks the part.
It’s great to be back in Antigua again, where I made landfall back in November. There is no shortage of magnificent yachts to look at, that’s for sure.
Tonight Brenda and I will be attending a meeting of the Tot Club and it will be fun to reconnect with friends. Perhaps I can get a replacement membership card to put in my new wallet, when I finally get it. Remember that lost wallet, the one I lost when I was in Martinique? So far, nobody has tried to use any of the credit cards that I lost. Fingers crossed that they won’t…
It was wonderful to watch the fiery sunsets every evening.
And see the colors change with the minutes. It’s amazing how quickly it gets dark every night.
Yesterday, Brenda and I sailed less than ten miles north from Marigot to Rodney Bay where we went into yet another marina to spend two days with our friends Bill and Maureen of Kalunamoo, marking the beginning of our run north and the beginning of the end of our season in the Caribbean. The marina staff was nice enough to put us next to each other on the dock.
You may recall that Bill and Maureen were our mentors back in 2012 when we made our first trip down the ICW on our way to the Bahamas. They proceeded us in the Caribbean by a few years, but ultimately we followed them again, so here we are.
As the wind is nearly always from the east, we have spent the entire season as we have headed south on a port tack and now that we are turning to the north, we will be on a starboard tack. This will also be the case for the 200 mile from Antigua to the USVI where I will join the Homeward Bound Rally in May.
If you prefer a small plunge pool with a water feature, this is for you.
They also have a steam room so you can get all hot and then jump into the nearby pool. And, all of this is available to folks on the docks and moorings. Such a deal.
I understand that the venting steam is a near permanent fixture of the area.
The island has been volcanically active for millions of years. In past millenniums, violently so as evidenced by the pitons, the cones of long extinct volcanos. These formations are all that is left after the softer outer parts of the structure weathered away and left the hard igneous rock. This view from an overlook along the winding, switchback road.
Of course, what’s an overlook without a couples photo?
We visited a chocolate factory and store. What a variety, including chocolate infused gin. And Brenda, being a gin girl, had to get a bottle.
The product displays were in very cleverly modified steel shipping containers. Below, in their restaurant, we had coffee and a snack.
Later, we had lunch at
The view of the few yachts on moorings, in more than 100′ of water, far below.
Zoom in on the one big yacht and you can see that it is Excellence, owned by an American, Herb Chambers. He owns a slew of automobile dealerships in the North East, US.
She is a spectacular yacht, one of two that he owns. This one was built in Germany a few years ago.
Brenda and Stephanie enjoy each other’s company.
Just down stream from the falls are a series of mineral bath pools. We all donned bathing suits and enjoyed time soaking. It was nice to be there alone as the crowds in past visits were pretty large. Interestingly, the water in the pool was clear during this visit and last time, a coco brown.
So ends the southbound journey of Pandora for this season. Even though we are thousands of miles from home, it still feels like the end.
So much for that, it’s starboard tack from now on. Well, mostly…
We are spending about two weeks here at the Marigot Bay Resort, tied up at the dock, AC cranking away while we waste water with, sort of, long showers aboard. Actually, compared to folks on shore, our normal water consumption aboard Pandora is about 15 gallons per day and now on the dock a whopping 30 gallons per day, I’d guess.
The view from our cockpit is, well, tropical.
And while we are spending about $70/day on the dock, the visitors in the hotel are paying about $500/night. Such a deal!
To be able to enjoy the pool while paying about the same cost as a mooring in Martha’s Vineyard is pretty appealing. Brenda has actually been doing a bit of weaving poolside.
Not a bad spot to spend an afternoon.
We have met some really interesting folks here including the crew of a nearby mega yacht, a huge catamaran, the third largest in the world.
We have enjoyed some fun evenings aboard Pandora and their digs. How about a singalong? Her cockpit is wider than Pandora is long. Big frigging boat. 
Just to prove that the visitor is really aboard Pandora with our dink “HOPE” in the background, a sort of “proof of life” shot.
No wait, this is even better. He made himself at home in our cabin. Brenda wasn’t happy about that. Alas, gone pre-poop. GO AWAY! This is just so BULLFINCH.
The harbor is a very popular spot for party boats to tour. They come in with music blaring and well lubricated passengers. I wonder if they have enough life jackets aboard. Hmm…
In the interest of full reporting, chill though I may be, life aboard Pandora here isn’t without it’s mishaps. The most recent “insult” was compliments of some sloppy docking by a 40′ Sunsail charter boat that tied up near us for one night. He did a pretty good job of coming in but his inexperience showed when he left and clipped one of my stanchions with his grill. Fortunately, the damage was limited to the single one. I was able to bend it, sort of, back in place but it’s clear I’ll need to source a new one when I get home as the top is a full 2″ out of plumb. And, it should be fun to find a part that was sourced in Finland in 2006 or so.
When I return home I will only be there for about three weeks before I head back to Antigua with my friend Craig. We will spend about ten days working our way north to the USVI and then will join the Salty Dawg Homeward Bound rally to the US and make landfall in VA where she will receive her lithium battery., house bank, upgrade.
One issue, if I put it in the cockpit locker, is how I will transfer the fuel, up hill, into my fuel tanks. If it’s on deck, gravity will do the trick but below I will need a pump. After checking a number of sources, 