{"id":5497,"date":"2016-03-22T16:50:40","date_gmt":"2016-03-22T16:50:40","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.sailpandora.com\/?p=5497"},"modified":"2020-11-02T07:55:08","modified_gmt":"2020-11-02T12:55:08","slug":"the-no-see-ums-will-see-you-now","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.sailpandora.com\/?p=5497","title":{"rendered":"The no-see-ums will see you now.\u00a0"},"content":{"rendered":"

As I begin this post, it\u2019s Monday morning and we are about 50 miles and underway toward Cienfuegos, our next big city to visit in Cuba.\u00a0 It\u2019s been quite for the last week and there has not been much wind at all.<\/p>\n

Along the way we have been doing a bit of fishing but have only caught some barracuda which can’t be eaten as they carry the bug ciguatara.\"OLYMPUSWe have been moving through very rural and remote areas, \u00a0totally uninhabited, \u00a0an area of many small mangrove islands called cayos in a group of islands and reefs called Archipielago de los Jardines de la Reina, a really long name as is so often the case here in Cuba. \u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

We did another overnight run to get some miles under the keel as we still have plenty of distance to cover over the next few weeks and frankly, we would like to tie up to a dock again with some AC as well as see another city. \u00a0\u00a0It\u2019s been very hot for the last week.<\/p>\n

After leaving Maria de Portillo we made our 40 mile run to Cabo Cruz, a fairly remote area only recently opened up to cruisers.\u00a0 The Guarda \u00a0Frontera visited us almost immediately, drug sniffing cocker spaniel in tow right after we dropped the hook, asked their usual questions and checked our papers.\u00a0 \u00a0We are finding that the procedures in each port are a bit different.\u00a0 In this case they took our cruising permit with them so there was no leaving until they had checked us out the morning of our departure. \u00a0You can\u2019t check into the next port without the permit, under any circumstances.<\/p>\n

We had originally thought that we\u2019d stay for two days but after a windy night behind the reef, we decided to leave the next morning and make our way further west. \u00a0\u00a0But wait, they had taken our cruising permit with them.\u00a0 Oh, terrific!\u00a0 So, I jumped into the dink and headed the mile or so into town to visit them in their offices.<\/p>\n

It was a fairly typical rural fishing village with the added benefit of a really nice lighthouse. \u00a0\"OLYMPUSI also saw a newborn goat with mother nearby. \u00a0\"OLYMPUSI had hoped that they would be willing to just sign us out and that we could be on my way.\u00a0\u00a0 No, no, no, that wasn\u2019t going to happen. \u00a0\u00a0They must visit our boat personally to sign us out.<\/p>\n

Actually, if the truth were to be told, I expect that the officer wanted a ride in my dink (that would be neat) as they always have to row the mile out and back with one of the local fisherman.\u00a0 Besides, how could he get his \u201ctip\u201d from us if he didn\u2019t come back to Pandora.\u00a0 And, of course, he\u2019d have to check out the boat to be sure that we didn\u2019t have any contraband aboard.\u00a0 I did make it clear that the ride was one way and that to get back he\u2019d have to row in his own boat.\u00a0\u00a0 Ok, we agreed and set off, his \u201creturn trip\u201d in tow, complete with his \u201crower\u201d.<\/p>\n

He checked things out \u201cno problem\u201d \u00a0and sent us on our way.\u00a0 I sure hope that the row back was worth the bar of soap that I gave him.\u00a0 No wait, he didn\u2019t have to row.\u00a0 The fisherman who\u2019s boat he\u2019d commandeered did the rowing.\u00a0\u00a0 In any event, he seemed fairly pleased with my gift of soap, I guess.<\/p>\n

However, it\u2019s become fairly clear to us that the Frontera will row a lot further than say, the Harbor Master in Sag Harbor will for a bar of hand soap.\u00a0\u00a0 Welcome to Cuba where, as the saying goes, \u201ceveryone pretends to work while the government pretends to pay them\u201d.\u00a0\u00a0 I guess the good stuff comes from cruisers, not uncle Fidel.<\/p>\n

By the time we got everything worked out there wasn\u2019t enough time to make it to our planned anchorage so we only had two choices.\u00a0 Postpone our departure and risk having to have the Frontera back aboard for yet another inspection or to just leave and extend our run to an overnight, which is what we opted for.\u00a0 At the very least, we could get some miles under us and cover some distance as we had only gone a few hundred miles since entering Cuba.<\/p>\n

Besides, the next few hundred miles would be primarily small low lying islands covered with mangroves and not much else.\u00a0 Unfortunately, there aren\u2019t many beaches in this area of Cuba.\u00a0\u00a0 Yes, it proved to be VERY remote and over the next few days we only saw one or two boats, in each case fisherman that tried to sell us lobster and fish.\u00a0\u00a0 And as we had already bought lobster twice in Cabo Cruz, sorry, not interested.<\/p>\n

We had read that all lobster captured was property of the government so imagine our surprise when one of the officers checking us into Cabo Cruz asked us if we wanted lobster.\u00a0 So much for the fox watching the hen house.<\/p>\n

So, as promised, a short time later a fisherman in a small row boat came by and asked if we\u2019d like lobster.\u00a0 Yes, that would be great!\u00a0\u00a0 He motioned for us to wait, rowed off, put on mask and fins, got AR-10 upper’s<\/a> ready underwater, jumped into the water and a few minutes later swam up to Pandora, two lobsters in hand.\u00a0 \"OLYMPUSAfter a bit of haggling we put some money in a zip lock bag and off he went.<\/p>\n

A little later, after our great lobster dinner, \u00a0three young fisherman came by asking if we\u2019d like lobster.\u00a0 Answer: \u00a0\u201cwell it depends on how much they are\u201d.\u00a0 They gave a price that was probably reasonable but we weren\u2019t hungry, so our answer:\u00a0 \u00a0\u201cno, too much\u201d.\u00a0 Besides, we wondered what price they would take if we weren\u2019t that interested.\u00a0 Nope, not enough. \u00a0\u00a0Off they went, looking a bit dejected, to the only other visiting boat in the harbor.\u00a0\u00a0 I guess that they weren\u2019t buying either so back to Pandora they came a short time later.<\/p>\n

After a bit of back and forth, we agreed on a price for three lobsters and money changed hands, $10 CUC.\u00a0\u00a0 But wait, \u201ddo you have Coke?\u201d \u00a0\u00a0\u201cHow about another lobster for Coke?\u201d, they asked.\u00a0 \u00a0\u00a0I could only spare one can so off they went happy with the deal we had struck.\u00a0 Three guys sharing a single can of Coke between them, all for a single lobster.\u00a0\u00a0 Amazing.\u00a0 Only in Cuba.<\/p>\n

We left the following morning for a long run to an uninhabited island, about half of the way to Cienfuegos, in a large area of reefs and shoals, dotted with small mangrove studded islands.<\/p>\n

After visiting several of these Cayos, I can\u2019t say that we have been particularly crazy about the area as there is not a lot to see unless you are diving.\u00a0 However, I am not particularly a fan of snorkeling alone so that doesn\u2019t work too well for us.\u00a0 While there\u2019s not a lot to see, there is one thing there in particular abundance, no-see-ums and we were unhappy to discover that there are literally millions of them just waiting for the unsuspecting visitor.<\/p>\n

The plot thickens\u2026 The other night we were anchored in a very pretty deep channel in the middle of a mangrove island, you know the sort of recommended anchoring spot spot on the chart with an anchor symbol?\u00a0 A spot that\u2019s VERY protected?\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 You know the spot?\u00a0 I suspect that the \u201c\u2019Cuban no-see-um convention and visitors bureau\u201d got together and lobbied to get that symbol on the chart.\u00a0 If you\u2019ve been cruising for a while you have probably visited one of their other \u201cofficial\u201d locations yourself.\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Anyway, unsuspecting, down went the hook and we enjoyed the day in total solitude in well protected waters.<\/p>\n

However, after dark\u2026\u00a0\u00a0 Yikes!\u00a0 We woke up around midnight and in spite of having closed the screens on all hatches, enduring the muggy conditions with almost no breath of air down below, and discovered that the mesh on the main hatch was not no-see-um proof and only effective in keeping out mosquitos.<\/p>\n

I turned on a light and was horrified to see thousands, no make that many thousands of little tiny hungry bugs on the ceiling and EVERYWHERE, just waiting for to sample a meal aboard Pandora. \u00a0\u00a0To be truthful, they were well into their main course by the time we discovered them.<\/p>\n

As you can imagine, it was not a great night and we didn\u2019t get much sleep.\u00a0\u00a0 It was horrible and I spent a good portion of the next day vacuuming them up from the headliner with my little shop vac.\u00a0 While I was able to get most of them, given the massive number that had found their way below, there were still quite a few that showed up the next evening.\u00a0 \u00a0Three days later I think I have finally gotten all of them.<\/p>\n

We didn\u2019t make the same mistake twice so the next night we anchored quite far from shore at yet another little cay.<\/p>\n

This one, Cayo Iguana, is home to a guy who runs a small snack bar and lives full time on the island.\u00a0 He is all set up with solar panels and I suspect a watermaker. \u00a0\u00a0This is his home and kitchen.\u00a0\"OLYMPUSHe shares the island with a multitude of critters including a health population of iguanas as well as thousands of hermit crabs that I guess he feeds as they all gather around his kitchen window to nibble on scraps he sends their way.\"OLYMPUSAnd, of course, Iguanas. \"OLYMPUSA nice view from the beach of Pandora well beyond “no-see-um-zone”.\"OLYMPUSHe seemed like a nice guy although his chain smoking and, shall we say, \u201clack of dental hygiene\u201d made us decide not to order any food.\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Good call.<\/p>\n

So, as I write this we are headed west to Cienfuego, one of the largest cities in Cuba and we hope to be there by late afternoon and are really hopeful that we will be able to find a slip in the marina where we can run our AC.\u00a0 Did I say that it\u2019s been hot?<\/p>\n

Well, it has been hot indeed and with very light winds we have had to motor just about everywhere for the last week and I am ready to stay put for a few days.<\/p>\n

Unlike Santiago de Cuba, where a trip downtown involved a 20 minute cab ride, Cienfuegos \u201cdown town\u201d is a short walk so that will be nice too.\u00a0\u00a0 We have read about this city and are excited about visiting and seeing all the beautiful architecture that fill this historic city.<\/p>\n

I expect that Brenda isn\u2019t particularly looking forward to a visit by the Guarda \u00a0Frontera as she fears that we will soon run out of T shirts, bars of soap, beer and Coke that has gotten us through our check in and out procedures so far.\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Besides, we have found that they tend to travel in packs and sometimes even with a dog, perhaps to sniff for drugs and firearms.<\/p>\n

Oh yeah, I should mention that I have been unable, in spite of days of work, to identify why my SSB won\u2019t send or receive email so the only time I can do a post and check for messages is when I am at a terminal in one of the government run hotels.\u00a0\u00a0 So, if you see a post, it\u2019s from a hotel.<\/p>\n

More to report soon from Cienfuegos and I for one am looking forward to seeing something that doesn\u2019t want to make a meal out of me.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

As I begin this post, it\u2019s Monday morning and we are about 50 miles and underway toward Cienfuegos, our next big city to visit in Cuba.\u00a0 It\u2019s been quite for the last week and there has not been much wind at all. Along the way we have been doing a bit of fishing but have […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_mo_disable_npp":"","_s2mail":"","site-sidebar-layout":"default","site-content-layout":"","ast-site-content-layout":"default","site-content-style":"default","site-sidebar-style":"default","ast-global-header-display":"","ast-banner-title-visibility":"","ast-main-header-display":"","ast-hfb-above-header-display":"","ast-hfb-below-header-display":"","ast-hfb-mobile-header-display":"","site-post-title":"","ast-breadcrumbs-content":"","ast-featured-img":"","footer-sml-layout":"","ast-disable-related-posts":"","theme-transparent-header-meta":"","adv-header-id-meta":"","stick-header-meta":"","header-above-stick-meta":"","header-main-stick-meta":"","header-below-stick-meta":"","astra-migrate-meta-layouts":"default","ast-page-background-enabled":"default","ast-page-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"tablet":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"mobile":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""}},"ast-content-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-4)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"tablet":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-4)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"mobile":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-4)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""}},"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-5497","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-uncategorized"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.sailpandora.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5497","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.sailpandora.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.sailpandora.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.sailpandora.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.sailpandora.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=5497"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/www.sailpandora.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5497\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":11470,"href":"https:\/\/www.sailpandora.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5497\/revisions\/11470"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.sailpandora.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=5497"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.sailpandora.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=5497"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.sailpandora.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=5497"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}