>Cundy’s Harbor, Casco Bay Maine

>Since Sunday we have been visiting Cundy’s Harbor in Casco Bay.  This area of the Maine coast is made up of long peninsulas and lslands that run north/south.  Unlike Mescongus and Penobscot Bays, these indentations in the coast don’t offer much in the way of east/west passage which means that in order to go east to west you have to head all the way back out into the Gulf in order to get to your next destination.  And to add insult to injury, with the prevailing winds blowing from a southerly direction, you are very likely to find yourself motoring into a smart SW wind as you head back out.

Cundy’s Harbor is primarily a fishing village with few summer residents “from away”, or not Maine native,s as they are often referred to.  Our friends Barbara and Steve, from near by at home in NJ, purchased a small home on the banks of Cundy’s Harbor a few years ago and have been splitting their time between the NY area and Cundy’s ever since.

It’s interesting to speak to them about how they are viewed by the local Mainers, as they are definitely in the minority.  I expect that most of the locals have never visited New York and might very well feel out of place in the busy metro NY area.  The area around Cundy’s is very peaceful and most of the boat traffic is lobster boats.

Barbara and Steve’s place is right next door to a lobster bait business with all of the comings and goings you would expect in a busy working harbor and very different from Camden or other harbors that cater to tourists.  No Tee shirt stores here.  Cundy’s is still much the same as it was 40 years ago.  

As you can see from this shot, the homes are set very close together and line right up with the high tide line.  No risk of beach erosion here as the homes are perched on top of granite outcroppings.

The view from their home is lovely as from our boat.  Not bad at all.

Any which way you look, the view is to die for.

Early this morning we had a passing shower and the rest of the day looks like it will be very pleasant.

Later today or Wednesday we expect to head up to Bath which is 5 miles out into the Gulf and another 10miles up the Kennebec river.  There is a terrific museum there, the Maine Maritime Museum and of course, Bath Iron Works where they have been building ships continuously since 1884.  Even today they are one of Maine’s largest employers and the home of the largest crane in the world that can lift 100s of tons.

Of course, a trip up the Kennebec has to be done with a mind toward the tides as the ebb runs very fast and can make a two hour trip up the river to Bath take twice that long.

Well, it’s time to get to work.  More to come on all of this in a few days.

More to come on that.

>Bailey’s Island ME, new friends and a mud oven

>The sun is out, we are moored in a little cove on Bailey’s Island in Casco Bay and all is well. When we were in the harbor, the Gosling’s, the other day we invited a very nice couple to join us for lunch and asked them about where their favorite places were to visit in Casco Bay. One of the spots that they mentioned was near the rock crib bridge on Bailey’s Island.

Located at the end of long peninsula jutting out into the bay, the harbor is very compact and nestled into the nortern point of the island. We arrived late in the afternoon and as it was fairly windy, the outer harbor unappealing at best. Instead, we decided to head into a more protected area further in and picked up a mooring. After getting settled in I set out to find out who the owner of the mooring was. After a few stops at various boats with folks working on them,  I was told that the mooring belonged to a couple, Charlie and Sally who lived in the house on the point. After tromping right up to their back door and introducing myself, Charlie readily agreed that we could indeed use their mooring for the night.  He also did one better and invited us to visit for coffee the next morning which we did and had a wonderful time.

Their home was lovely and was full of Scandinavian touches, the details of which warmed Brenda’s heart as it would any weaver who was particularly fond of Norwegian things. We sat with them for several hours at ease immediately.

Our original plan was to head out on Saturday afternoon to join up with our friends Barbara and Steve who own a small home in nearby Cundy’s Harbor that evening. However, when I called Steve to make  announced that they had been invited to an outdoor pizza party and would we like to join them. As luck would have it, the party was actually less than a ten minute walk from where Pandora was moored. Talk about luck. We could have gone any number of places and yet chose the one place on the Maine coast that was the site of a party were our friends were headed. We do live right.

On top of that, our new friends Charlie and Sally were also going. What a small world. As if that wasn’t enough of a coincidence, I was also speaking with someone on the boat next to ours, a Valiant 40 named Calypso, also a Bob Perry design (he drew the SAGA 43 design years later) only to learn that John and his wife Margo had sailed Calypso around the world for ten years some time back and, no lie, that he was a good friend to Steve and Barbara, the very folks that we wanted to hook up with.

There’s Pandora on the right and Calypso on the left  but different none the less.  Note the Norwegian flag on the dock.

What a small world given who we ran into on such a small island. I have always told my boys that you have to be very careful what you do in public, no matter where you are, as you never know who you might run into. Coincidence upon coincidence at Baley certainly reinforced that point to me.  It also reinforces the point that you have to reach out and meet folks whenever you can.

In any event, off we went to the party, and a outdoor mud oven pizza party at that. I had never seen a mud or beehive oven before and was immediately smitten. I have to have one and after enjoying wood fired pizza and beer.  No the beer wasn’t wood fired.  Brenda and I have decided to build one ourselves when we get home in the fall. What fun.

 And of course, you can buy a book on the subject from Amazon, Build Your Own Earth Oven, and it’s the 3rd edition, at that.  Thank you, I think I will.  Perhaps I will order a copy and have is shipped to the Tugboat Inn in Booth Bay Harbor so I can read it as we cruise the Maine coast.  Perhaps we will have to get a donkey and goats to go with that.  Perhaps not.

Anyway, back to the mud oven. Theirs was built on a rock base and the oven itself was made of a mixture of clay, sand and straw, vaguely shaped like a fat fish with a big mouth, and there it sat, in all of it’s glory, under a small lean too with a corrugated steel roof.

You have to love it.   A giant pile of mud that you can cook in.

Here’s our hostess, complete with straw hat and Birkenstock shoes.  The perfect combo for wood fired pizza.

Here’s Brenda and some of the other guests, feeling relaxed and well “pizzaed”.

There were many types to choose from including Gorgonzola cheese and pear, artichoke hearts, onion and even chocolate chip, marshmallow and strawberry pizza for desert.  One thing for sure, it wasn’t possible to get a photo of an entire pizza as they were cut up and eaten so quickly.

Well, off to Amazon to order a mud oven how to build it book. It’s just so awesome.

Back to our mooring hosts, Charlie and Sylvia. They have built a terrific home on the point and have landscaped it wonderfully. A particularly nice feature is their tidal pool built into a rock ledge on the edge of their gardens fed from a pump out in the cove. While the ledge is almost 15′ above sea level, water is pumped up from the harbor and cascades over the rocks back over the rock ledge. It’s very charming.

The view from their porch is fabulous. It’s hard to believe that there is such a wonderful place on earth, and Maine is full of such views.

There is also a really unique bridge just across the harbor, the only rock crib bridge in the world.   Supposedly, there used to be one in Scotland but it was dismantled during World War Two, and was never rebuilt. The construction technique is really interesting, as it’s built of a lattice of granite slabs dry laid in a Lincoln Log style with no mortar.  Probably not something that would be a good idea in an area prone to earthquakes.

The bridge is over 1,500 feet long and is a source of pride to the local residents having been recently rebuilt by the state.  Check out a bit of history of the bridge.

The details are impressive, and it’s hard to believe that it’s nearly 90 years old.

The detail work is quite impressive.

Also, I forgot to mention that John and Margo, with the Valiant 40, on their decade long cruise around the world, decided to purchase land in New Zealand and now split their “summers” between Maine and New Zealand. How wonderful is that?

Now, the next step for us is to decide where to go tonight as it has to have good Internet coverage. Not sure but it’s 9:00 and time to decide.

We now have a number of new friends, a place to return and soon a mud oven. Life is good.

>Casco Bay Maine and it’s Friday!!!

>We have been in Maine for nearly a week and have settled in on Pandora.  We are particularly enjoying our new cockpit cushions and updated fabric in down below.  Work has been going well and I put in a full week working aboard.  It’s certainly not as easy as working in an office but the view is certainly better.   The cell phone booster is also coming in handy as it makes a weak cell signal a lot better.  I do have to be mindful of where we are anchored to be sure that I can get my e-mail and make calls that sound clear.

While working aboard can be tough, a decided benefit is to finish up at the end of the day, jump in the dink with Brenda and head out on an evening cocktail cruise around the harbor.

For much of the week we remained in Falmouth, just north of Portland, where we had made landfall last weekend.  Our friends Frank and Gail have been terrific hosts even going as far as lending us their car so that we could run our car up to Rockland so that it would be accessible at a location that was at the mid point of where we expect to spend time cruising for the rest of the summer.

We ran our car up to Rockland late on Wednesday afternoon and left it near town boat ramp, a place where we had parked several times over the years.  This year I wasn’t certain if it was a good place to park as there weren’t any other cars in the area.  In past years we have left a car on the grass just off the parking lot along with others that had done the same thing.  However, this year there wasn’t a sign of anyone parking there and I just wasn’t comfortable in leaving it there.  The thought of leaving a car for more than a month and coming back only to find that the car is gone wasn’t appealing.  However, after speaking to a number of folks that happened by I found someone who was friends with the Rockland Harbor Master and made a call for me to see if it was OK to park there.  Happily, she put me on the phone, I explained my plan and happily, he said yes that it was just fine to leave a car there.  I guess that makes him my new favorite harbor master of the week.

What a relief to have that part of our cruise logistics solved.  Well, back in the car for the 90min run back to Falmouth and Pandora.   As luck would have it, the picture perfect sunny Maine afternoon deteriorated as a massive storm cell rolled over the area complete with wind, heavy rain and impressive lightning.  By the time we dropped off our friend’s car and I hoofed it back to the town landing, the rain had not let up much.   I was a little damp, for sure.

Earlier in the week I had decided to move Pandora off of the club mooring to save $$ and had moved her waaaaaay over to the other side of the harbor in the lee of a very pretty island.   That was the good news.  The bad news was that we were now looking at a mile plus run in the rain, with no rain gear, to get back to Pandora.  To make it even more fun, it was nearly dark, except for the constant lightning in the distance lighting up the sky.  That did make it a bit easier to see where we were going when it flashed. The positive side is that the storm had mostly passed and it was perfectly calm.

As you can imagine, a mile is a long way in a dink when you have to go really slow.   However, in spite of the fading light and thankfully, calm conditions we were soon zipping along on a plane with the dink and in about 10 minutes,were safely aboard Pandora.

I have to say that Brenda was a champ about the whole adventure.  In spite of being soaked, a glass of wine made everything about right.

Fast forward to Friday morning as I write this post and the weather is wonderful. It’s not too cool and though the sky is somewhat overcast, it’s clearly going to be a great day.  With good weather in the forecast for the coming weekend, we are looking forward to the next few days.

Not a bad view to see first thing in the morning.  This is the early morning view as I write this post.

The light in the early morning is just so warm and a great welcome to a new day.

One particularly nice thing about cruising is that you can get the best views and there is always a water view.

You can often see delightful and unexpected things on the water such as this group of Opti sailors being towed out for a day of sailing lessons. These little folks were just so cute and looked like a bunch of moths skipping across the water.

For the big kids it’s always nice to fly over the water in an ultra light.  The pilot and his passenger took off from a nearby field and buzzed just over the water, around a small island, and headed off into the distance or should I say, off into the sunset.  I hope that they had life preservers on board.

All and all, a very nice first week aboard.  And did I mention the wonderful roasted pork dinner with onions and carrots that we enjoyed last night as the sun was setting?  Very nice indeed.

>How much stuff can you fit on a SAGA 43?

>It’s Monday morning and we are sitting aboard Pandora in a wonderful little cove about 15 miles north of Portland Maine, the Goslings.  The fog is thick following a rainy night and it’s as peaceful as you can imagine without  a ripple on the water.  We headed out from Portland Yacht Club yesterday afternoon after jamming all of our stuff aboard from the car that Brenda brought along from New Jersey.  We wanted to head someplace close by as we are heading back today to the club to view the fireworks aboard Frank and Gail’s SAGA Alcid.  You know, the one that they sailed to the Med?  Thought so.

So back to the question posed by the title of this post.  Some time back two boat shoppers considering a SAGA 43 visited me and Brenda aboard Pandora to take a look at her as they were considering what sort of boat that they wanted to purchase.  The questions were varied but as they planned to live aboard for several years while they got their cruising kitty in order, one of the big areas of discussion was “how much storage does she have?”.  The answer is complex as perhaps the better question is “how much stuff to you have to have with you?”.   They were trying to decide between a SAGA and an Island Packet, two different vessels entirely.  I have spouted on and on about what a great boat Pandora is but it’s sufficient to say that she will certainly out perform most other boats her size and certainly will outrun an Island Packet, a design known for ruggedness but not speed.   However, the Island Packet will certainly out perform a SAGA in the “store your stuff” department as they are a much wider and voluminous design.

So, how much *%$# can you put aboard Pandora?  I am glad that you asked as I have been wondering too.  Well, we certainly are putting her to test as we move aboard for two months in Maine.   It seems to me that, as this photo illustrates, you can put a good deal of &%^$ on a SAGA 43.

And that’s just what Brenda brought along to meet up with me here in Portland.   There is literally several tons of stuff aboard and we never seem to take anything off.   It’s always a one way trip, it would seem. 
Alas, there is order in life, at least aboard Pandora.
Did I mention that I raised Pandora’s waterline a full 2 inches over the winter?  Thought so.   So, will she still perform under sail?  I guess the answer to that an other cosmic questions will have to wait until another post. 

>Crossing the Gulf of Maine

>

The trip across the Gulf of Maine was uneventful with almost no wind at all.  Even now, at 10:00 we are motoring into a light breeze but it’s not from a good angle to put the sails up. 
As we are headed to Portland we were never more than about 25 miles from shore but that’s still plenty far out to feel isolated and alone. 
I have always enjoyed being out of sight of land and can still remember when we sailed out 20 cape cod catboat TAO out of Bridgeport CT.  Sometimes we would head out on a hazy day and it was always a thrill for me when we couldn’t see land.   I would imagine myself out on the ocean heading for some exotic place.
So, here I am nearly 30 years later writing this while off shore making what must be my 15th or 16th trip to Maine.  A lot has changed for us and it’s still a thrill for me. 
When I make a run to Maine I am always hopeful that we will see a whale or some other interesting creature and this trip wasn’t to disappoint.  While we left the Cape Cod Canal at dusk we were in darkness long before we were over the areas frequented by whales.  Besides, most of them tend to congregate east of our intended path.
However, this morning we saw, about a few hundred yards off, what was probably a finback whale.   We didn’t get close enough to get a good photo but it was exciting, never the less.
What was even more exciting was a fin that appeared of in the distance, a fin that looked pretty chewed up.  Thinking that it was an ocean sunfish,  a slow swimming, very docile fish, we headed over for a closer look.  With the engine barely ticking over so as to not alarm our quarry, we drifted over to see what we had discovered.  As it turns out, we ended up right on top of an enormous shark.   You tend to think of sharks as long and sleek but this one had enormous girth and had to have been 15 to 20 feet long.  I don’t know what it was but I was mighty happy to be on the bow of Pandora and not in the water. It might have been a basking shark as I did see that it was spotted.  This link is to some photos by those clearly quicker on the photo finger.  Besides, there aren’t that many shark species that are this large. 
I was so stupefied that I wasn’t able to get a shot into the water even though it wasn’t five feet from the bow and I was standing on the bow sprit, literally on top of the monster. So, you will have to settle for a shot of the fin.  I can only imagine what sort of creature chews on the fin of a shark that big.  I guess it would have to be an even bigger shark.   Hmm…
Thinking that I would need my telephoto lens to get a good picture, it was way too close and much too big to get picture with the lens that I had. 
The trip wasn’t all excitement though as I was able to enjoy a magnificent sunrise over glassy calm water.    As I was on watch from 1:00 to 5:00 I was treated to sights that began with magnificent stars over head and no moon to light up the sky and obscure the view, followed by a gradual lightening in the east and finally treated to this wonderful sight as the sky brightened and the sun finally came to life .
Just as the sky began to brighten to the east. 
Finally peaking up over the horizon
Ever higher, the day has begun.
Now we’re cooking with gas!!!
It’s hard to believe that it can be this calm in the ocean.
 Motoring across a glass like sea gently breathing as the waves went under us. 
We are now less than ten miles from our first waypoint since the canal as we begin to thread our way through the islands to make landfall at the Portland Yacht Club.
Brenda will be on her way too and tonight we will visit our friends to get ready for Monday’s Portland fireworks display.  What better way to watch the show than from the deck of a boat? 

>Off to Maine, finally! And a view of ICAP Leopard

>It’s 9:00 and we are about 5nm east of Watch Hill Passage (eastern Long Island Sound) and are on our way to Portland Maine.  It’s hard to believe that we are finally under way after months of working on Pandora and planning for our summer aboard.  My crew assembled in Mystic last evening, provisioned and had a nice dinner out prior to getting to bed.  We arose early enough to watch the sun rise and at 7:00 headed out to Long Island Sound for the run to Portland Maine.

Pandora’s happy crew 5 miles south of Newport RI.  

We have not been to Portland by boat yet so this will be a new experience for us.  We will be hooking up with fellow SAGA owners Frank and Gail of Alcid who live in the area and are members of the club.  It’s worth noting that they took Alcid to the Med some time ago and enjoyed sailing the waters from Gibraltar to Egypt for 7 seasons before having the boat shipped back to the states on a ship about a year ago.

Our landfall will be at the Portland Yacht Club, a few miles north of Portland proper.   The cruising guide says that the club is the second oldest in the US, although I wouldn’t be surprised if other clubs claimed the same.

It’s a beautiful day out on Block Island Sound and while the winds are not sufficient for sailing (It’s always that that way when you are trying to make miles) It’s great to be out on the water.

A bit later on in the day, off of Newport RI, we spotted a magnificent yacht ICAP Leopard go by at an impressive pace.  Out for a easy day of cruising, Leopard is a go fast world class racer that has participated in many events world wide.  You too can charter Leopard for an afternoon of fun.  Check out their website.  If you really want to be wowed, take a look at some of their videos.  And, if that’s not enough.  They have a number of world records to boast about and they do on their website.

This was about as close as we got to Leopard.  
How about this video of Leopard at speed on their record transatlantic?

I couldn’t resist putting in a video.  How about this one of Lizard Light at the entrance of the English Channel.

Yes, putting this video in is a bit random but it is the finish line for races from NY Ambrose to England, a hotly contested route for as long as there have been boats crossing the Atlantic.

Well, back to our poky run to Maine.  The plan is for us to catch the tide at the Cape Cod Canal at some point after it begins the flood so that we won’t be going against the current, which runs hard at nearly the speed of Pandora under power.  That means that if we are with the current we will be making double digit speeds over the bottom as opposed to 2-3 knots if the tide and current are against us.  As the canal is about 10 miles long that means that the trip will take about one hour with the help of the current or 3-4 hours if it’s against us.

If all goes well we should be pulling into the club mooring field at mid afternoon on Saturday.

>Fisher’s Island New York

>

Fisher’s Island marks the eastern end of Long Island Sound and while it is just a few miles from Stonington CT, it is part of New York State.  Fishers, unlike Block Island, Martha’s Vineyard and Nantucket has been largely privately owned during it’s modern history so it’s development has been very carefully controlled by a small group of very powerful individuals.  If you are lucky enough to visit the best way to get there is on a private boat.  There is a ferry from New London but once you are on the island you are largely on private property.  For our visit, we left Mystic and motored over the few miles as there wasn’t any wind. Our destination was West Harbor which is, incredibly enough, located at the western portion of the island on the north side.  There are moorings for rent in the harbor just south of can #7 behind the reef.  It’s well protected and very pretty.  You can take your dink ashore at the yacht club and go for a walk.  There’s a well stocked market about a half mile up the road if you turn right out of the yacht club lot.   The club is host to a variety of boats from the most humble to this visitor while we were there to this massive yacht.  Clearly, the folks on this island have the means to keep everything just so. 

You can charter Gene Machine for your own cruise if you wish. She’s was built by Westport Yachts and is 130 feet long.  I understand that there was a wedding the prior evening at the yacht club so perhaps the wedding party spent the night aboard.  If you like the design there are 30 others similar to her so perhaps you can find one at a location around the world that suites your needs.  
A nice shot of the clubhouse.  It looks like the entire clubhouse and tent would fit aboard Gene Machine. 
There isn’t much to do on the island except in the center of “town”, actually a town green and a few shops, is only a short walk from the harbor.  Along the way is a wonderful cooperative garden that’s always a treat to visit.  
The garden is very well tended and oviously gets a lot of care.
It’s impressive what money will allow when it’s not coupled with a stucco mansion as is sadly so often the case.   As you would expect, there is also a very tasteful graveyard along the way.
It looks like there’s plenty of space still left so book your spot for your eternal resting spot. 
In spite of our many visits to Fisher’s over the years we have never heard of or visited the Henry L. Ferguson Museum,  a wonderfully organized collection of the history of the island.   We were treated to a personal tour by the curator who spent nearly an hour with us showing us around.  He was deservedly proud of his current exhibit that chronicles the early history of the island’s homes,in pictures, both then and now, from first settlement through the early 20s.   There is also a nice newsletter that tells a lot about what’s going on at the museum and on the island.   For such a modest museum, it’s obviously well endowed and the building itself is quite new.   I understand that some involved in the layout of the museum are associated with major institutions on the scale of the Metropolitan in New York City and it shows. 
This interactive map rotates to show archaeological sites and other areas of interest on the island.  
There are some dioramas that are of very high quality, and certainly of a caliber than you would not normally expect in a museum of this scale. 
There is also an very nice model of the Race Rock Light, which is located on the south western point of the island.  This light itself has a fascinating history given the technical difficulties in building it.   $3,000 was appropriated by Congress to begin construction of the light back in 1838 but it was not completed until 1878 at a total cost of nearly $280,000.  The piece of water that it marks is particularly dangerous and is the site of countless wrecks.   While it’s possible, I doubt that the lighthouse ever had a $100,000 toilet seat in it.  However, with Congress holding the purse strings, who knows. 
If you are interested in the history of this light, a long and complex one for sure, check this out
The island, along with an early history of raising livestock, including cattle, sheep and even poultry in large numbers, is currently known for it’s terrific oysters.  This is a shot of cages used to hold growing oysters for commercial sale.  We wouldn’t want our oysters laying on the dirty, muddy bottom would we?  Never!
Speaking of meals, what blog post isn’t better if it’s ended with a shot of a meal aboard.   Here’s Brenda with a wonderful omelet ready to dive in.  Visit Fishers’s, you won’t be disappointed.
Is it me or is the horizon tilted?  Perhaps it’s the earth listing to port.  Something else to worry about.  Well, at least there are fresh flowers on the table.  I guess that means that everything will work out in the end.  Hmm…

>Pandora in the water and visiting Mystic, finally

>As I write this blog I am sitting aboard Pandora on a mooring in Mystic CT.  It was truly a “saga” getting Pandora into the water and up here this year.  It is very unusual for me to have not launched by Memorial Day weekend but this year was quite different.  Actually, in 40 years of sailing this is the very first year when my boat wasn’t launched.  However, it was for good reason.  Sadly, Brenda’s father died about a week prior to the long weekend so we headed of to VA to help her mother and take care of many issues.  It was a number of very tough weeks but things are getting back to normal and well, here I am, a few weeks later and Pandora is in Mystic and the summer of sailing is under way.

My good friend Roger, who’s SAGA, Ilene, is in Granada, yes the one near South America, now for the summer, agreed to help me bring Pandora up to Mystic last Friday.  As the yard where I have been keeping her over the winter is on the other side of the RT95 highway bridge, with only 61′ of clearance at high water, I have to bring her under the bridge at low tide.  By doing so, there is adequate clearance for her 63′, plus instruments, mast height.

Although I have brought Pandora under that bridge a number of times, my heart was firmly in my throat as I watch the mast pass within what seemed like inches.  No, I was actually convinced that we were going to hit.    Alas, we didn’t hit but it sure looked like we were very close.  My heart was pounding.  I’d hate to think of the sort of damage that dragging the mast head under a bridge would do to the gear at the top of the mast.  My approach is always to make the approach to the bridge at the slowest possible speed of one knot or less. However, I doubt that would make any difference at all given the fact that 25,000 pounds of Pandora, even at one knot, would easily scrape off all of the gear at the top of the mast.

Getting under the bridge wasn’t the only obstruction that I had to get past, as there was also the railroad bridge and the downtown Norwalk Water Street bridge.  The railroad bridge opens as needed but you have to call several hours early as they don’t keep an operator on site and it takes 6-8 guys to throw the necessary switches to get the bridge to swing.    This shot shows a bunch of guys getting ready to open it.  It’s hard to imagine what it costs to have that entire crew head out to open it up for any boat that wishes to pass.

I have been sailing the Norwalk waters for over 40 years and I never tire of seeing the oyster boats plying their trade.  This old oyster dragger is a classic and judging by the mound of oysters on deck, business is good.  It’s possible that these are empty shells that will be spread on the beds for the baby oysters, or spat, to cling to.   Oystering has been a part of Norwalk history for generations.  You can purchase oysters from the local producer Norm Bloom and Sons, at their website.  They are terrific and I have seen them on menus in many top seafood restaurants.

 If you are interested in reading about the history of the oyster business in the New York area, I strongly recommend Mark Kurlansky’s The Big Oyster, a book that is as much about the early history of Manhattan as it is about oysters.   Trust me, this is a really good book as this review from the New York Times attests.

As is so often the case, we headed toward Mystic with the tide against us and not enough wind to sail.  Why is it that the wind always blows from dead ahead.  I guess that’s God’s way or reminding you that you have to work for a living and have a schedule.  My retired friends always remind me that they just wait a day or so and get great winds.  Hmm…  As the day progressed, the wind backed around to the East, as forecast,  right on the nose, and increased to nearly 20kts.  Our destination for that night, Duck Island Roads, harbor of refuge, ended up being just that as it was really rough as the seas built and it got choppy.  After the tide turned in our favor after nearly 7 hours, remember we left at dead low, the wind was against the current which is always nasty.

In the morning, after a good rest, we continued east with a full ebbing tide, which pushed us along nicely.  Unfortunately, the winds were still very strong and again we slammed into waves and wind.  However, we did make good progress in spite of the constant slamming that we and the boat endured.

Finally, into Mystic and calm waters.  Pandora is now safe and sound on her mooring where she will be for the next few weeks until we head to Maine.

Now, for something completely different.  I have been struck for some time now with the dramatic changes that have taken place in yacht design over the years.  Pandora, designed by the noted marine architect Bob Perry, draws inspiration from a class of boats designed to go fast offshore.  These designs, including the Open 30 class, are designed to surf at high speeds.  While they lack the creature comforts of Pandora, they are impressive racing machines, never the less.  A few hundred yards from Pandora’s mooring is Dragon, a terrific example of the class.  Actually, Dragon won line honors (first to finish) in the 2010 Lobster Run, a 350 mile run from Stonington CT to Booth Bay Maine.   Note that I won second place on Pandora in the cruising class in 2008.  Dragon is a very high tech boat, for sure.

This video shows another boat in her class at speed.  These boats really move.

I guess that I would put graphics on my boat like this if she were such a rocket ship.
Everything about Dragon is high tech. Look at this cockpit layout.
There is no doubt that yacht design has evolved tremendously over the years.  Here’s another racing boat in the same marina from early in the 1900s.  Yes, it’s a lot different.
And, check out the cockpit layout, a bit different.  Yes?
There was a time when I would have chosen the classic but I have to admit, that I love those creature comforts aboard Pandora.  Did I say that I have a microwave?
I can’t wait to see what the rest of the summer will bring along with my rewarmed and microwaved coffee. 

>Why a SAGA 43, revisited.

>As I sit here, it’s only a short time till Pandora is back in the water and, based on a post on the Yahoo, SAGA list serve, I thought it would be interesting to revisit the question of why we purchased a SAGA 43 several years ago.  One of my first posts, back in 2007 addressed that very issue and I have listed our original assumptions below as well as the post from 2007 to see how these thoughts have stood up over the years.

When I initially called a boat broker about upgrading from our Tartan 37, my wife Brenda and I had a few key characteristics that our new boat absolutely had to have.  Here they are.

  1. The design had to have a good pedigree, fairly fast and one that would perform well in a seaway.  
  2. It had to have a good, comfortable main stateroom with a berth that wasn’t “pointy”. 
  3. A shower that was fully enclosed and easy to dry off after a late afternoon or evening shower.  
  4. Two heads would be nice so Brenda had a place one to her own when we were in port or had guests on board.
  5. I wanted a boat that didn’t have even one little piece of exterior wood that I’d have to varnish.  I’d had plenty of that over the years with previous boats, including my Tartan 37 with her 90′ of teak toerail.
  6. An inverter that can handle a hairdryer like a champ.
  7. And, above all, the boat had to get where we needed to go in good style.
This is what I wrote in my post back in 2007 about why a SAGA 43.   I wrote…
As I mentioned previously, we decided that we needed a new boat when we were anchored in Gilkey Harbor, Isleboro Maine in August of 2006. We saw a nearly new Tartan 41 and I decided to introduce ourselves to the owners. They invited us aboard for a cocktail and told us about their Summer plans, to cruise for about two to three months in Maine. At that moment, I realized that was what I wanted to to someday. What better way to look toward the future than to get our ideal cruising boat now. By early September we were working with Pat Clark of Boat Works in Rowayton CT. She proved to be very knowledgeable about many designs and their characteristics and recommended a number of boat designs for us to consider. However, having looked at a large number of designs over the year I was immediately taken by the SAGA configuration when she introduced it to me. Bob Perry, the designer, also was the father of the Valiant 42, considered by many as one of the finest cruising boats ever built. So, I was fairly confident that we had found a design that would fit the bill. I did a fair amount of research and read all that I could find on the Web. One review in particular caught my eye from a publication called 48 North What I read there told me immediately that I had found the boat that I wanted.
The SAGA 43 was conceived as performance cruiser, just what I was looking for. I wanted a boat with good pedigree that was also fast and comfortable, with more creature comforts than we had with our Tartan 37. We looked in Annapolis at what would eventually become our boat within a month, and now just one year ago at the Annapolis Show. We decided immediately that we wanted to purchase “Spirit” and put in a bid the next week. With delays on the seller ‘s side it wasn’t until February of this year that we finally closed on the boat and got started on the upgrades we planned to do prior to launching. We upgraded the electronics to include a Raymarine e-series radar plotter, new canvas and some additional weight in the keel. We knew that many of the earlier SAGAs were quite tender, a combination of their narrow beam and a bit under weight in the keel in the shoal draft verson. We ordered a 1,200lb “shoe” from Mars Metals in Ontario and had it installed.  It went on perfectly and I looked like it was part of the original keel from the very beginning. Having that extra 1,200 lbs proved to be just the trick as Keith Reynolds (the patron saint of SAGAs) predicted. Now she is plenty stiff and able to carry sail as needed. Yes, she does heel over a bit but no more than our T37 did. With these modifications we were off and running as of mid April and ready for our summer “trials”.

So, how is it going as I sit here in May of 2011?  I put that question to Brenda (who doesn’t mince words about sailing and is very clear that she is happy in her role aboard Pandora as “the honored guest”) and here’s what she had to say.
“It’s not the Ritz Carlton, and there’s no room service but it’s way better than camping”.   Well, she did say that but also went on to say the following.
“It’s the most comfortable boat that we have ever had, (note that we began sailing together nearly 40 years ago and had a succession of boats beginning with a 20′ catboat and just prior to Pandora, a Tartan 37 ) sailing is a lot less tiring and we arrive with energy left for shore leave”.  The boat is still somewhat tender and even though we are healing the motion is easy and I am not holding on for dear life.  And, this is a major difference compared to our other boats, including our Tartan 37 where I was always exhausted after a long day on the water. “
I should note that since getting Pandora we have spent progressively more time aboard with a total of 6 weeks last summer and plans to top that by a few weeks this year.  This time aboard will include two months in Maine, a trip that we have made for over 15 summers.

So, is Pandora right for me, an avid sailor, and Brenda, a somewhat reluctant but nearly always willing “honored guest”?  It would seem that it is.

For us, after 40 years of sailing together, Pandora is about the perfect boat and I can’t imagine another boat that would fit the bill better for us.
And, as a friend of mine once said, “that’s my report and I’m sticking to it”. 

Oh, I almost forgot, I hate to do a post without a photo so I guess that I will have to sign off with a shot of Pandora secure on a mooring in Muscongus Bay Maine back in 2008.

>Ten days till Pandora splashes, again. Yahoo!

>It’s Sunday morning and it’s pouring cats and dogs.  It’s a good thing that I was able to put in a full day working on Pandora yesterday as it’s coming down to the home stretch and there is still a good amount to finish to be sure that she’s ready to go back in the water for the Summer.  When I think about the amount of time that I put into Pandora over this winter it’s quite amazing.

What brought it into perspective for me yesterday, I worked from 7:45 till 5:00 yesterday (with a bit of time out to have lunch with my Mom and Dad) was when a guy working on the boat next to me, a Cal 23, remarked about my work “so, trying to get it all done in single day?”.  He was referring to the fact that he had seen me working on the boat all day, sanding and painting the bottom and cleaning the topsides and assumed that I was rushing to get all the prep work needed to launch done in a single day.  I had never laid eyes on this guy before so I expect that it was his first day down to see his boat this Spring.  The look on his face was priceless when my reply was “actually, I have been working on the boat nearly every weekend since the second week of January”.  That’s actually painfully true with very few exceptions.  I can recall a few weekends when I had to wade through 3′ drifts to get to the boat and climb aboard.  In the interest of full disclosure, I rarely worked aboard more than one day each weekend.

The number of projects that I did over the winter, painstakingly detailed in previous posts, is my most ambitious to date.

Here’s the list., not counting the little projects.

  1. Holding tanks:  Ripped up the floor so I could measure for, build and install two gelcoat lined fiberglass holding tanks,   These babies are so nice I can’ believe what we are going to be putting into them.
  2. Radar arch:  While I didn’t make the arch, just installing it was a tall order.  It’s great and will make a big difference in our enjoyment of the boat.  Hey, now I can climb right into the dink even if it’s hanging from the davits.  Not sure why I would do such a thing but it’s nice to know that I could if I wanted to.  I also fished the wires for the GPS antenna, aft running light and moved radar from the backstay to it’s new home on the arch.  
  3. Freezer:   Now, I can have ice cream on board, actually, make that GREEN ice cream.  No, not the kind from a Dr. Seuss book, Sam I am, but the kind powered by my solar array.  We sailors are all about being green and off the grid, right? I separated a section of the fridge and made a  freezer compartment with a dedicated cold plate and new compressor. 
  4. Spice rack:  Behind the fridge in the galley I constructed a new spice rack.  I went to great pains to match the design so that it blended with the other details in the galley.
  5. Salon and cockpit cushions.   I ordered new cabin cushions for the main salon and cockpit.  That wasn’t too hard as I just had to write a check.  Brenda picked the fabric and she choose well.  
  6. Curtains in the salon:  Actually, they are pleated shades and really give the boat a more tailored look.  
  7. AIS/VHF radio combo with a remote cockpit mike:  I installed the system but had some help from my electronics guy wiring it up and making sure that it will work as advertised.
  8. Raised waterline:  With all this new “stuff” aboard, in addition to the 1,200lb keel shoe that I had installed when I took delivery of Pandora, I needed to raise the waterline by two inches.  This entailed sanding the boot top, putting on three coats of Awlgrip primer and then sanding all of it again. 

And, all of that in addition to the usual washing, cleaning, bottom painting etc.  You know, the normal sort of getting-ready-to-go-in-the-water sorts of things that happen after a long cold winter.

Speaking of cold winters.  Thank goodness that I put in an Espar heater a few years ago.  Without it, I wouldn’t have been able to reply with such enthusiasm about my work on Pandora from January on.  I do enjoy working on the boat but have to say that it was nice to just write a check and have those cushions show up magically.  Alas, I may be busy but I always seem to have more time than money.  Hmm…

Back to yesterday (Did I mention that I had lunch with my Mother?)  Yea, I thought so.   Well, I did get a lot done and Pandora is looking great.

One of my favorite parts of getting a boat ready to launch is painting the bottom.    So, you are asking yourself  “is he nuts?”.   Actually, it’s not so much the painting but the sense of accomplishment that I feel when I take off the masking tape, stand back and take a look at Pandora, so near to being launch ready.

Doesn’t she have a great bottom?  The last step in finishing the new waterline will be the installation of a 1″ white vinyl boot top, which will separate the bottom paint from the blue section.  I am a bit skeptical of this approach but he yard assures me that it will stick well.  We will see as if it doesn’t, it will be there problem to replace it next Winter.   Anyway, it will look great.

And the shine on that hull?  Not to shabby either.

Actually, that photo was taken before I sanded where I had primed the, now raised by two inches, waterline.

Down below is looking pretty snazzy too with the new cushions. I am particularly happy with the ottoman which I made out of 3/8″cherry marine plywood and oak reinforcements in the corners.  The canvas shop put a cover on it.  Now I have a place to store bulky items and a place to put up my feet.

And it fits nice and snug between the port settee and the table when it’s not in use.  Here’s what it looked like when it was “in the raw”.

Think of us over the Memorial Day weekend as we head out of Norwalk and off to Mattituck, on the North Fork of Long Island, one of our favorite places to visit to begin our much anticipated Summer aboard Pandora.  And, no I will be sure not to forget the ice cream.   Let’s hope that the sun shines plenty this summer to power all of the equipment that I have installed over the years.

That’s all for now.